View single post by Tom Ward
 Posted: Sun May 27th, 2018 07:26 pm
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Tom Ward


Joined: Tue Nov 14th, 2017
Location: St Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 378
OK, here's my plan.

I've got 4 curved, 4 wyes and 16 #5 straight turnouts built which is enough to get me up and running on the benchwork I've completed so far.

I'm scribing wood grain into all the wood ties, including about 300 ties for track in between the turnouts.
I'm scribing it using an old Xacto style saw blade for fine grain,
and then going back over it with a short section of hack saw blade to give some deeper grain.
After I scribe it I give everything a light sanding with 220 grit paper that's probably actually 800 grit,
because I've been using the same piece for about 2 years now.

With that done I place the ties in bags, separated by turnout style or plain cross ties.
I've mixed up a batch of fresh stain:
40 oz water, 4 tsp raw umber acrylic, 2 tsp burnt umber acrylic, 1 tsp black acrylic, 2 tsp black drawing ink that's water soluble.
I soak the ties for 24 hours, turning the pieces in each bag every few hours.
When I take them out I pour off the remaining stain back into my stain jug and can get many more uses from it.
My last batch lasted two years and would have been longer but it was getting kinda ripe.

I got this recipe from Rusty Stumps and it works great.
I've used it for all my models over the last few years and am really pleased with the aged effect for the wood.
Each piece has enough variety of color that it gives a very realistic appearance.
I think it'll work fine for the ties too.

With the ties weathered and stained I'll glue them down with Elmer's white glue and spike the rails down.
My roadbed is 1/2" Homasote and I'm using ME spikes.
I think I'll try the ME rail weathering solution.
I have some of their weathered rail on my turntable and that looks....... well, kinda weathered.

If I'm truly unhappy with my weathering job I'll just bury the ties a little deeper.

- Tom

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