|View single post by Reg H|
|Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2018 05:09 pm||
|Here is a photo of the almost completed foundation:
This was a major project.
A big lesson learned is that any of the small cross-section pieces that are cross-grain are VERY fragile.
There is a lot of repair work in here. Several pieces broke along the grain with practically no pressure at all.
That was abetted by my trying to be in a hurry and skipping the trial fit step.
The result being that I had to attempt forcing pieces together after applying the glue. Very bad idea.
Another result of being in a hurry was not paying attention to the assembly sequence.
You will note that the second bent in is a bit different shade than the others and has no laser burn.
That resulted from inserting one too many of the taller bents in place.
I woke up at 2:00 AM the following morning with the realization of that mistake.
Obviously, our brains chew on the events of the day while we sleep.
So, I fixed that problem by cutting down the misplaced bent to match the short bents and fabricating a replacement.
Not a bad job of fabrication if I do say so myself. I had not glued the very end bent in place. So I used it as a pattern.
Then some very careful work with the drill, coping saw, band saw and emery board to get it all looking right.
This fabrication was a further lesson. In the kit, each bent is composed of two pieces essentially butt-joined together.
I thought that was silly. Why not fabricate each bent out of one piece?
Because....basswood comes in standard widths and lengths.
The only way to fabricate a bent in a single piece is to arrange the beams with the grain and the piles across the grain.
I learned on the first attempted cut why that is a bad idea. The very first pile I tried to cut broke along the grain.
The only way to make the grain run with the pile is to make the bent in two pieces.
There are cross-braces between every bent. The idea is to install those between every leg of every bent.
You can see the outside ones. I haven't decided whether to install the interior ones or not, as they won't be visible.
There would be 40 additional cross braces to carefully remove from their sheets, trial fit, and glue in place.
The bracing, by the way, is detailed down to nail holes.
The last step on this assembly, unless I decide to spend a couple of days applying the rest of the cross braces,
is painting the outside of the outside floor beams flat black. They end up just about 1/8" behind the windows.
In the background you can see the bottle of Titebond glue. B.T.S. recommends the Titebond for structural assemblies.
I love this stuff. It is widely used in the experimental aircraft community.
The instructions recommend white glue for non-structural applications because it will dry clear. The Titebond tends to have a yellow tinge.
My inclination is to use the Titebond throughout and just be careful on how much I slather on.