View single post by W C Greene
 Posted: Tue Jun 26th, 2007 04:15 pm
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W C Greene



Joined: Fri May 4th, 2007
Location: Royse City, Texas USA
Posts: 8253
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OK guys-the r/c gear will fit into the tenders of the Bachmann locos, the On30 2-8-0 is pretty simple since the tender already has a wiring harness to the loco, the 2-6-0 would have to be modified with a wiring harness. The Shay can be run with a 9 volt alkaline battery in the bunker. To make this fit, the bunker has to be "hogged out" with a moto tool and then the 9 volt and board can be shoehorned in. The 0-4-2t Porter can be r/c also, either by making a simple little "tender" for the stuff or by using a Banta all-weather cab kit to hide the stuff. There are several options for the r/c boards. For r/c cars-check out the nice and available board for the LOSI MICRO T cars, any shop that deals with r/c cars will have this or can get it for you. A smaller board is made by KYOSHO for their MINI Z RACER cars (what I use)-these are hard to find right now and pricey. A knock off of this board is made by IWAVER for their Mini Z hop up parts. And here's something made for model railroads-CREST (Aristo Craft) makes the DC ENGINEER with the transmitter and board available through stores that carry Aristo Craft. While the car boards are made for cars and we have adapted them, the Crest has a more familiar transmitter for railroaders. All of these systems can be run with 9 volt batteries or the Lithium rechargables some of us use. There is so much info to spew about this subject, you would need to get an idea of this yourself. Look at r/c car stuff (small scale, not the big gas cars) and check out what's available. Radio Shack makes an inexpensive little car that has a fair board-what you are looking for here is PROPORTIONAL FORWARD AND REVERSE control. Some of the cheap cars have "sort of" proportional, speed is added or subtracted in steps-useful for railcars or maybe an old class A Climax, but not very good for doing switching for example. I can't tell you just how really simple this all is, you have to convert something once and then you will understand. I do dcc installations at a local hobby shop and I can convert a locomotive to r/c in far less time than it takes to install a dcc decoder and do all the cv's and other programming. I probably spend far more time looking at the locomotive and thinking about that "first cut" than I spend actually doing the "work". I am not an electrical engineer, I am an electrical doofus so if I can do this, so can anybody else, all it takes is imagination and a willingness to butcher up a nice locomotive. But you will be rewarded with a reliable loco that will run anytime, anywhere(even without track!) and on anybody's layout without any problems. I wish Walthers or somebody would run an ad with "LOOK AT THIS-REAL RADIO CONTROL FOR YOUR LOCOMOTIVES!!! but they ain't gonna do that, at least right now. There's the choice, you can do this yourself right now or muddle through and hope somebody offers the stuff in the distant future. Someday, there will be micro size r/c with sound, etc. for any locomotive but not at the moment.

As for a show layout-you don't need any 110 plugs anywhere, you don't need extention cords to get power, you don't need to worry about loose connections or that short circuit that only happens when folks look at your display, you don't need a brite boy to clean track and wheels, you don't need any wiring at all, and if you have lights or other operating featgures, they can be run with batteries also. You can set up your layout in the middle of Death Valley if you want and still run trains and sweat. Think about the possibilities and have fun. Bob has a fine piece at the beginning of this section showing what's involved so check it out and be asssured that this is not the end, only the beginning. The large scale garden guys have been using r/c for years and now small scale guys can have the same fun. More film at 11...

                             Woodie C Greene



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