View single post by Herb Kephart
 Posted: Sun Mar 7th, 2010 07:49 pm
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Herb Kephart

Joined: Thu Jul 19th, 2007
Location: Glen Mills, Pennsylvania USA
Posts: 5981

The heights of the studs above the tie are gradually increased wherever the pick up sled has to go over another rail, as at a switch or crossing, and then they gradually lower back to just above tie height. If the studs are staggered slightly along the center line of the track they are a lot less noticeable, than when they are in a dead straight row.

The studs, and a wire connecting them are MUCH easier to install before the ties and rail are down, but make leveling the tops of the ties with a sanding block before spiking the rail a matter of only sanding the outer ends of the ties possible--which seems to accentuate the fact visually, that the studs are there.

Ya takes yer choice.

As for points actuation, leave them a free as possible, but sprung to the desired entry side with a piece.010-.012" music (or better yet- since this will be outside- phosphor-bronze) wire. Most of my switches are done this way, with a hand throw working against the spring for the non-preferred route. If the switch is approached from the frog end, so long as the switch points are in the position for the preferred route, nothing need be done, the wheelsets will move the points over momentarily.

Herb  (who ain't a stud anymore)   :old dude:

Last edited on Sun Mar 7th, 2010 08:04 pm by Herb Kephart

Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
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