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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 08:27 pm
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dmunseyjr
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Woody,

The last I heard burnt crow was selling for about $1000 a kilo!!!

Let me know when it is, I want a front row seat!

GBG!!

 



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Don Munsey, Jr
Living in UpperRightCorner of Louisiana
1:24n16/1:24n42 & 1:64/1:64n42 Swamp & River Logging Fan
Dismal Swamp RR, Big Sandy & Cumberland RR and
VGN Rwy fan
Bonsai Enthusiast & Coppersmith
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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 11:28 pm
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Tileguy
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One day I am going to be down your way Woodie................My son lives in McKinney area ( In fact he just got hired on to the Melissa Police Department...unfortunately he is not much into trains...He does like the Slot track though LOL )

I'll be sure to get in touch when I'm out that direction!!!

Todd



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There once was a man from Nantucket ;)
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 Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 12:12 am
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Trebor
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Update on my RC projects.

I’m using a Futaba 2 stick, 2 channel radio with a Losi board and a 9-volt battery.  The Losi uses channel 1. I wanted to see if I could run a second train on channel 2.  Woodie suggested that I add a second Losi board and use the servo connection. That didn’t work. BUT, I took the original receiver that came with the Futaba and added an ESC (electronic speed controller) and used channel 2. I’m using a 9-volt battery on that one as well. Works like a charm. So I’m running two trains with one radio and I can run them both at the same time (sort of).

The whole set up ran about a hundred bucks. 

Bob

Last edited on Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 12:15 am by Trebor



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Bob
Frisco, Texas
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 Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 02:26 am
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dwyaneward
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Tileguy wrote: One day I am going to be down your way Woodie................My son lives in McKinney area
C'mon down...Todd...I've been a Mckinney area resident for 35yrs.



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Dwyane Ward | Fairview, TX
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 Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 03:42 am
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W C Greene
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Bob-that's great news about being able to control 2 locos with the same transmitter. I knew you would get this figured out! I have enough to do running 1 train at a time, so I may not get as far with this, but it would be cool to be able to operate 2 locos without changing crystals or turning one loco off while I run the other. The r/c guys tell me that not everything is compatable, but so far I seem to have lucked out with what I have. I am running with an old JR transmitter and a Kyosho transmitter which I tore apart and put into a Radio Shack box so it doesn't look like Captain Kirk's space pistol. All my Mogollon Railway locos and railcars (6 pieces) use the Kyosho boards and li-poly batteries, but my Bachmann On30 2-8-0 has a Losi board and 9 volt battery. I can't run the consol on my layout because of it's wide cylinders which take out scenery and long wheelbase which dislikes my roller coaster track. I still have my old On30 4-6-0 which has 2 3 volt camera batteries and Kyosho board-this loco still runs with batteries I put in it close to 2 years ago!!! Must be some kind of record.

Well, the weather in Dallas is great for outdoor trains, so the layout is up and running and I'm a happy man. It sure is nice to not have to worry about cleaning track but the dried leaves falling on the right of way is another matter. That brings up the story about the Mogollon's bug blower-a flatcar with a motor driving a propeller. The crews use it to blow crickets from the track but it works great for dried leaves. I think I have too much time on my hands.

                      Woodie



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 Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 01:10 pm
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dmunseyjr
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Bob,

Neat idea - If I change the ESC in my Mighty Mack to channel 2 - I can drive it with the right joy stick, leaving the left for my next LOSI board!

 

Woodie,

What's invovled in getting rid of the "Captain Kirk" phaser throttles?

Don

 

 



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Don Munsey, Jr
Living in UpperRightCorner of Louisiana
1:24n16/1:24n42 & 1:64/1:64n42 Swamp & River Logging Fan
Dismal Swamp RR, Big Sandy & Cumberland RR and
VGN Rwy fan
Bonsai Enthusiast & Coppersmith
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 Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 03:46 pm
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W C Greene
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Don-first you need to get a Radio Shack "equipment box" which is about the size of a normal hand held throttle case. Then it gets to be some work. First take the donor transmitter apart carefully, noting what is where. To make a single stick throttle, you need to remove the "trigger" on the speed control and drill a hole to accept (on mine) a 1/8 brass rod as the lever. This sounds more complicated than it is. When satisfied with the lever action of the speed control, you will have to lay out what will protrude through the box cover. An elongated slot for the lever, some slots for the various switches-determine which switches you use for the speed control and don't forget the throttle trim pot which needs a hole. The antenna hole is drilled in the top, there's a hole for the crystal somewhere and the biggest change is to install a 9 volt battery clip which now powers the throttle. The layout of the parts is the big thing, cutting holes & slots in the box is the trickiest part. Heck-I need to send photos but am still bamboozled by the photobucket rules for attachments. I am working on a "website" now that I can just send an address and everybody can click on it to see the pix. Maybe I will get all this photo stuff cyphered soon. Anyway, all the stuff from the donor transmitter plus the battery fits into the new box. Go to the Shack and see what they have, this little box is a "normal" stock item for them. Of course if you need help in the store, the folks there don't know beans unless you want a jambox or a cell phone so you may be on your own. On the other side, Joe Bostick loves the Capt Kirk devices and can run 2 trains with 2 transmitters-one in each hand. I believe Joe has 2 brains, I don't have that capability! Send me a note off line & I will reply with a pix or so to show what I am talking about.

     Woodie



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 Posted: Thu Jul 26th, 2007 02:03 am
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Herb Kephart
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Hi Woodie

Found LiPo batteries at the Thunderpower site, but the only charger they offer is $55, and looks to me to be a field charger, that is, a quick charge between races. In one of your posts, you said that you charge on the bench, which I take to mean some sort of a more gentle charging rate. Is there some sort of a formula (like 1/10 the amh) to use as a guide for charging rate? Is charging at a low rate time sensitive- is there some sort of a "float" charge rate? Do the same charging rules apply to Li and LiPo?

Also looked in Digikey cat., and besides Lithium, they have Manganese Lithium, Niobium Titanium Lithium, and Vanadium Pentoxide Lithium- but no LiPo. of the four above only the Lithium  is offered in useful sizes, the other three are mostly "coin" types. Is one of the above LiPo under another name?  From what they tell about each, an electronic dumbass (ME) can"t tell much difference.

Now I guess that I'll have to dig out the O scale Reading RR 0-4-0 that I was building 20+ years ago and finish it. At the time, I was concerned that with the receiver, and a servo to work a pot to work a transistor speed control the was too little room for enough NiCads to give any usefull run time.

Just look what you've done!

Herb:old dude:



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 Posted: Thu Jul 26th, 2007 02:44 am
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W C Greene
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Howdy Herb-the charger you may want is what I have, it's a CELECTRA by E FLIGHT. This little guy charges Li-Poly batteries in 1, 2, & 3 cell configurations. This charger costs about 45 bucks and you will need a 12 volt dc power supply (a great use for the old power pack!!). It is very simple to use and can charge from 250 MAH up to 2 A. I use the 250 MAH setting for all my batteries which are built into the locomotives. I use the Thunder Power batteries , they have several configurations and outputs. Now, I don't remember what the ratings are, but an example-my 0-4-2T built from a Bachmann On30 loco has a 7.4 volt, 2 cell battery in the cab roof. Remember also that I am building in 1:32 narrow gauge so things have a mite more room. The Porter runs for probably 10 hours per charge and that is going up and down my 10-12% grades with ore cars. My Shay (again, Bachman On30) uses an 11.1 volt 3 cell battery and runs about the same length of time. I prefer to use slow charging, the batteries last much longer without heating up. Car and plane guys want to run & run again, we want to slowly run and when the engine needs charging, we've probably had more than enough running for the day. If you were doing shows, then the charge would probably last all day plus some. Motor draw probably affects discharge rate (duh?) so good low-draw motors help out. Also, a mechanism free of binds is mandatory. My friend Mudge has an old Mantua HO 2-6-2 with board & 9 volt alkaline battery in the tender and it runs great with the old open-frame motor. Your 0-4-0 will probably love to be running, especially with no problems from r/c. I advise that you disable the track pick up system, this can cause problems (read FRY) the board if there is power across the rails! Let me know how this works out.

                Woodie



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 Posted: Thu Jul 26th, 2007 02:53 am
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Herb Kephart
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Thanks Woodie- you have been most helpful!

Herb:old dude:



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