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 Posted: Mon Aug 7th, 2017 07:47 pm
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Bob R
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@Woodie,
I agree.  It is not difficult to take the guts out of a pistol grip transmitter and put in a small "project box" to create a more traditional transmitter.  The trigger mechanism can also be replaced with a 10K pot.  
DelTang sells a Spektrum transmitter module for $22 that is the basis of their transmitters for those that want to build their own.  Really simple to do.  Their instructions for building their kits give all the info needed to wire up a transmitter with all the capabilities  and programming options. A 10K pot and a couple switches is about all you need to add.
I am a simpleton when it comes to electronics.  I can solder a few wires but don't know anything about how it all works.  I can follow pictures of wiring but am challenged by a schematic. 
Picture shows an installation.  The single 3.7 volt Lipo battery is under roof and wired to piano wire pins that connect to critter body.  Receiver tubes in critter are 1/16" brass tube.   Removing the roof disconnects battery (no switch).  Bottom view of critter shows two wires from battery to a Pololu 9 volt regulator.  From regulator two wires go to the DelTang receiver (wrapped in white paper).  Two wires from receiver to the motor.  In this critter the mechanism is a single power truck from a Bachmann HO GE44 tonner.  Really quite simple.  Run time was about 1 1/2 hours.  I have since replaced the battery with a two cell 280 mah unit.  Improved efficiency with two cell provides about 3 1/2 hours run time and still fits under the roof.

Attachment: Critter bottom.jpg (Downloaded 172 times)

Last edited on Mon Aug 7th, 2017 10:01 pm by Bob R



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 Posted: Mon Aug 7th, 2017 08:02 pm
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Bob R
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On the subject of cheap chargers................Let us not forget to mention for the benefit of those not familiar with Lipo battery charging that most small "wal wart" type chargers do not have circuits that monitor the battery charge.  The battery will need to have a protection circuit either incorporated in battery pack or a separate battery protection circuit.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 7th, 2017 10:21 pm
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Bob R
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@Si,
Regarding "you get what you pay for" comment.  I was only refering to size of equipment not the quality of operation.  I very much support keeping costs reasonable.  Around here I am known as a cheapskate.  

Really nice looking transmitter.  I assume one button is for acceleration, another for deceleration and central switch for direction control.  Is there a circuit required to enable use of a button to activate acceleration/deceleration versus a pot?
I recall seeing some very creative transmitters on the Gnatterbox website a while back by one of the posters from Germany.  Love creativity!
 
@Woodie,  I too have added rechargeable Lipos to my transmitters.  The Spektrum transmitter circuits only require 3.1 volts so I was able to use a single cell.  

Last edited on Tue Aug 8th, 2017 05:48 am by Bob R



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 Posted: Mon Aug 7th, 2017 11:49 pm
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Michael M
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Si,

What did you use for the hand-held controller?


Bob,

I'm planning to re-build the cab on my shay and doing about the same as you with installing the battery in the roof  and making it removable.



I'm finally finishing up installing RC in my rail truck.  Pulled the electronics out of a $12 RC car.  Using a 3.7c 500mAh Li-Po with a booster to 4.5v.  Because of the gearing this rail truck hits a top speed of about 5 mph.

This is only my second conversion to RC, but I'm learning a lot.  And, more importantly I'm having a heck of a good time! :glad:

Thanks to all for posting information here. 



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 Posted: Thu Aug 10th, 2017 09:34 pm
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Si.
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The highly 'ergonomic' train-controller, isn't an R.C. transmitter ...

... but an improved handset for the S.C.R throttle, I made when I was about 13 !

( unlucky for some ) :f:



As my Dad always scathingly said about 'ergonomics' ( different to Reganomics ) ...

... " Designed for ERGONS ! "

( possibly similar to Klingons ) ???





It has very light-action ( but high-current ) LED backlit, metal push-buutons.

Green for accelerate, direction rocker-switch, Orange for brake & RED for emergency STOP !

:shocked:

My 'pot-in-a-box' approach is a little bit more klunky.

Relying mostly on 1950s Bakelite(TM) technology & ex Soviet-military rectifiers.





The STALWART 'Tri-ang' P-42 circuit-controller gets power from a 70 year old 'Hornby Dublo' type 00/1 transformer.

A hefty old-school computer PSU capacitor has been bunged in for good measure & screwed to the cold-war era rectifiers.





The original R.C. throttle which I simply couldn't resist buying for about £4 inc P&P ...

... wasn't really designed for " Ergons ". :shades:


Although it isn't that bad as it happens.

Depending on whether you're into the Fritz Lang 'Metropolis' look or not.


It doesn't quite have that 'Star Fleet Command' styling beloved by Capt. Kirk. :cool:

I suppose you get what you pay for.





Anyway ... Back in the 'real world' ... My 'FlySky' FS-GT2E transmitter arrived today !

WOW !

Now THIS really is what mooodern day design & moulding technology is all about !!

" Ergons " eat yer heart out ! (_!_)





No fumbling around trying to operate potty-boxes whilst uncoupling.

FANTASTIC user comfort & great action on the controls !

No need to put this down to slurp the G&T or puff on the Havana either. :mex:



The price for the FlySky transmitter/receiver twin-set is UNBEATABLE as well !

Michael, you're simply gonna LOVE this transmitter, when yours arrives !! :bg:



:brill:



Si.



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http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

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 Posted: Fri Aug 11th, 2017 11:59 am
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William M
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I recently bought an LED dimmer. Consisted of a small handheld button box and a small receiver. This dimmer has a facility for ON/OFF 25% 50% 100% output and useful for regulating speeds and will operate a motor up to 12v max. (All these dimmers are on the same frequency so its a bit dubious for more than one Loco).
They are very ( dirt) cheap and EBAY have them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232330053822

Last edited on Fri Aug 11th, 2017 12:02 pm by William M



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 Posted: Fri Aug 11th, 2017 04:07 pm
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Si.
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Hi William :wave:



:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:



Bravo !

This is exactly the kinda thing we NEED to hear more about round here.

It's a great antidote to the familiar 'million Dollar mantra' that is numbing our brains & wallets ! ;)





Description

Instructions for RF Wireless Remote
1.Turn On/ Standby  
Press this key to turn on unit or switch to standby mode. Unit will turn on and restore to previous status at powering on moment. 
2. Lighting mode
Switch to lighting mode from dynamic mode.
3/8/9. Dimmer Adjust Shortcuts
Switch to 100%, 50%, or 25% brightness lighting mode.
4/6. Dynamic Mode Adjust
Switch to dynamic mode from lighting mode, or switch between different dynamic modes.
5/7. Speed Adjust
Adjust playing speed of dynamic modes. Press SPEED+ to increase seed and press SPEED- to decrease.
10/11. Brightness Adjust (Dimmer)     
Adjust lighting mode brightness. Press BRIGHT+ to increase brightness and press BRIGHT- to decrease        

Functions for RF Wireless Remote
Dimmer & Dynamic 
8 Dynamic Effects
10-level Dimmer
256-Grade PWM
Speed Adjustable
Card Type Remote
Ultra Slim Design
Smooth Dimmer Effect
1 to 1 Remote Paired 
Auto Save Function
         
Installing for RF Wireless Remote
1. Power Supply    
This unit accepts DC 5V to 24V power supply. The red cable should be connected to positive and black cable to negative. 
Please select proper power supply according to the LED application.
2. LED Output    
The red cable should be connected to LED positive and black cable to negative. The peak output current   is 12A, please reduce load if main unit is overheating.
CAUTION:Do not short circuit the LED output, this may  lead to permanent damage!
3. Remote Control      
Please pull out the insulate part before using. The RF wireless remote signal can pass through barrier, so it\'s not necessary to aim at the main unit when operate. For proper receiving remote signal, do not install the main unit in closed metal parts. The remote battery is 3V CR2025 type, please only replace with same type battery.        

Specification
Dynamic mode:  8 modes        
Dynamic speed level:  10 levels        
Lighting brightness level : 10 levels        
PWM grade:  256 grades        
Smooth dimmer effect:   Yes        
Working voltage:  DC 5~24V        
Output current :  peak 12A         
Remote control mode:  RF Wireless
Remote frequency:  433.92MHz        
Remote distance :  >15m at open area       
 
Package includes:
1 x  Mini In-line LED Light Controller/Dimmer
1 x RF Wireless Remote Controller R106(Battery included)





Of course, if things are true to form here, we'll now be told about all the things it can't do !

Well ... You might not be able to send a rocket to the Moon for $2 Bucks either. L:

But I for one am pretty impressed.

Now ...

... with some imagination & thinking 'outside THE BOX' ...

... I have no doubt that there are quite a few interesting things that CAN be done with this budget beauty !

How about an R.C. ore-chute, for your borax tipple Michael ? L:



C :cool: :cool: L



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Fri Aug 11th, 2017 06:01 pm
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bobquincy
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I bought one of these RF LED controls a few years ago and reported on it here but the thread must have been wiped out when there were some problems with the site.

It runs at about 150 Hz PWM and ranges from about 5% to 100% duty cycle.  There is no reverse although that could be added with a little more electronics.

Buried on page 6 of this forum I wrote about another low-end RC (which is not even RC, it's IR) the Lego Power Functions system.  The controller can easily be operated with one hand, has 7 steps of Fwd and Rev, and supports four channels.  The whole setup is less than $40.

Last edited on Fri Aug 11th, 2017 09:45 pm by bobquincy



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 Posted: Sat Aug 12th, 2017 03:28 am
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Michael M
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Oh, I don't know about this.  I don't think my poor little head can handle much more electronics.  Still, it does look interesting.  About $2 on the bay.


Si,

An RC ore chute?  I had enough trouble just hooking it up for steel rod control.  I would need to find a motor powerful enough.  Besides that tipple is slated to get move over to a temporary mining section.  Still, I have a few tipples in mind that I want to build so maybe I could work something out.


Bob,

Yes, a reverse function would be necessary in a loco.  If someone knows an easy way, a very easy way, to add a reverse to this I'd be interested.  Again, it has to be easy.  I've already smoked two boards from RC cars (One person wanted to know if I was trying to install a smoke unit).



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https://www.flickr.com/photos/183715370@N03/albums/72157710477887657/
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 Posted: Sat Aug 12th, 2017 05:43 am
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bobquincy
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Michael,

this is probably not what you had in mind but "easy" to me means program a PIC microcontroller to handle the logic.  Actually it is just a few hours of programming (cut and paste from some I have already done) and we can make a LED setting of 50% mean Off, greater than 50% is Fwd, less is Rev.  The cost of the parts is only about $6.

The Lego system is not that much more $$ and doesn't require any modification so for a low-end approach that would be my choice.

The smoke in homebuilt RC is like the smoke in British sports car electrical systems, never let it all out or it quits working.

boB

Last edited on Sat Aug 12th, 2017 05:44 am by bobquincy



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