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Weathering Flex Track
 Moderated by: Herb Kephart Page:    1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 07:23 am
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Paladin
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Talking in chat last week, one of the topics discussed was Weathering Flex Track.

This is something I am about to try, I have about 300 feet of PECO Flex Track in On30, which I purchased before I knew better  The ties appear oversized and far to thick for my liking, the plastic is to dark in colour and the rail is Code 100. A couple of months back I was thinking of selling it and going with ME Flex Code 70. But, and there is always a but, the exchange rate for the AUST$ to the US$ is not in my favour

During chat several members offered suggestion or said they had used such and such a method.

Suggestions are most welcome, better still get out a small section of Flex and join me in trying out ideas, the more the better.

Post pictures and a description of what you did showing all results even if they stuff ups. That is all part of the learning curve.

So here we go, a small section of track to experiment with. This is PECO Code 100 in On30.  straight from the box.






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Don McL
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 Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 10:04 am
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Herb Kephart
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Don

Looking at the sample, I see what you are up against. IMHO, the most glaring thing is that the ties are too short- and, naturally, that's going to be near impossible to "fix" easily. I would not worry about the ties being too thick, as the ballast, or dirt, will bury them. Giving the whole works a spray of grungy brown paint will go a long way in hiding the rail height.

But the length, ah yes the length-------


Herbie:old dude:



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 Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 02:26 pm
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Trebor
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I just spray them dark brown then dry brush them with a light grey and fill them with ballast or dirt. Go look at Pine Creek especially near the turntable.

Last edited on Tue Oct 21st, 2008 02:29 pm by Trebor



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 Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 11:23 pm
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Paladin
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Herb :-

You are right, the length of the ties is a problem.  Strange, I have looked at this track many many times and it never occurred to me that they are to short.  Hopefully the ballast will help to disguise this shortcoming. (Pun).
As you have stated there is not much can be done about it. So I will concentrate on the other issues and pretend they cut the ties from short trees.

Bob :-

Your method appears to work very well, sounds simple and quick to apply. I note that the ties are all the same length, whose flex are you using ?
You have also used a variety of ground covers which tends to build the whole scene to the extent that one looks at the big picture rather than focusing on any one thing.
I will be happy if I can get it to look that good.

Don



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 Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 11:38 pm
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Trebor
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Thanks, it is just cheepo Atlas flex track.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 21st, 2008 11:42 pm
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Paladin
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Stage 2

I decided to give a method given to me by Woodie a go.

Firstly I painted the rails with Rust thinned 50/50
Then painted the ties with a mixture of 1 part Rail Brown - 1 part Harbor Mist - with 3 parts thinners.  Did not want to fill the detail in the ties.
Went over the rails with full strength Rail brown, not being fussy about getting a smooth layer of paint.
Now using Harbor Mist diluted 1 part to 3 parts thinners. This was spotted onto the ties in a random pattern, just touching the brush to them and allowing the colour to wick across them as it pleased.
Then went over the railheads with a folded tissue dampened with thinners to clean things up, this also removed excess paint from the spikes.

I used Floquil paints.  This may sound time consuming but it was really quick and easy to do. I spent more time deciding which colours to use than actually doing

Sorry Woodie this may not be as you told me, but it looks like it may work.




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 Posted: Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 12:04 am
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Paladin
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This is stage 3

This I thought was a little gem from Woodie.

Simply spray with Dullcote , allow to dry then randomly apply Iso-Prophynol with a brush allowing it to wick where it wants. this gives it the aged silvery grey look.

Unfortunately I can not get the aged effect to show up very well in the picture.




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 Posted: Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 08:13 am
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Dave D
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Looks good Don.

Next time try using a sponge brush dampened with some household oil.

Lightly drag that across the tops of the rail before you paint. ( Careful not to get it anywhere else cause it will keep the paint from adhering....that's the point.)

When you are done and the paint is dry you can just wipe the paint off the rails top easy as pie.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 01:09 pm
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loggeron30
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Don,

This looks very good!  I wanted to a part of chat last Sunday, but as fate would have it, a close friend and musician buddy of mine had a fatel heart attack and dies Sunday morning.  Sad to see as he was so young!

Anyhow, like you I have a boat load of flex (MI code 83) and at one point I was going to use it on this project but I think I'm going to hand lay again.  I'm still very interested in what you are continuing to do with this!!!!!



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 Posted: Wed Oct 22nd, 2008 04:12 pm
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danpickard
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Don,

Maybe one thing to keep in mind is, the way flex track slides in the "spikes" once you start using it on the layout.  I have previously pre-weathered a batch of track before laying in, thinking it would make the job easier.  Good in theory if I had a layout of all straight sections.  Once the track is flexed, the rail slides in the spikes, and you can end up with small spots of masked out clean rail, meaning you have to go back and retouch the whole lot anyway! 

 For the latest project, we layed everything, airbrushed the sides of the rails in an aged brown rusty sort of colour, not too concerned about if paint got on the ties at this stage.  Then went back along the line and ran a greyish drybrush along the ties.  Came up quite well, and happened pretty quick (as I airbrushed, John followed me with the drybrush...did the 30' of layout in about 10 minutes!).  A lot of that effect has been lost now anyway once the ballast has been added in, with that mostly buried backwoods look.  Apart from the code 100 rails, it actually ends up being difficult to see much of the peco ties underneath.

Dan Pickard

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