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Along the Octoraro & Eastern
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 Posted: Thu Dec 17th, 2009 02:48 pm
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Herb Kephart
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 Thanks for the kind words folks!  :Salute:


And to answer Woodie's question- I am going to install a very small nuclear reactor, so as to eliminate those pesky LiPo batteries.


It'll glow as well as go



Herbie:old dude:



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 Posted: Thu Dec 17th, 2009 02:57 pm
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John Dale

 

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 OOOHHHH!!!.....I wish I hadn't seen this:bang: ......a while back I was totally smitten on seeing an HO version of one of these box cabs on the Bronx Teminal link on the FastTracks site. So much so that I was contemplating doing some artwork and having the body etched in brass in O gauge , your wonderful efforts so far will have me digging out the old copy of the Model Railroader which has the drawing in, plus the photos I found on the web of the box cabs.....another project :)  Shall be watching how you are progressing :thumb:,

    

Last edited on Thu Dec 17th, 2009 02:58 pm by John Dale



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 Posted: Thu Dec 17th, 2009 04:31 pm
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Huw Griffiths

 

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 ebtm3 wrote: I am going to install a very small nuclear reactor, so as to eliminate those pesky LiPo batteries.

It'll glow as well as go

As it can't be "water cooled", should I assume this will be an AGR?

For those unfamiliar with the nuclear power industry, I'd better explain that AGRs (or Advanced Gas-cooled Reactors) are a UK design of nuclear power station, the building of which was once described as "watchmaking by the ton".

I'll let you decide whether to draw any parallels.

Regards,

Huw.
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 Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2009 01:44 am
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W C Greene
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 Herb-if you want to replicate a nuke disaster, you just have to stick one of those li-po's with an Xacto #11 blade and run! It's a great way to get rid of a model you ain't too proud of. That just may be a way to model Chernobyl or Three Mile Island...I am sure there are some modelers thinking about that. Keep it up but when Gromit starts to run, you had better also!      Woodrow



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 Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2009 11:13 am
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Huw Griffiths

 

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 W C Greene wrote: It's a great way to get rid of a model you ain't too proud of.
I don't see this happening any time soon!

It's a great model - solidly built and beautifully engineered.

I don't think I was too far out with my "watchmaking by the ton" comment.

Regards,

Huw.
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 Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2009 01:13 pm
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W C Greene
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 Huw-I wasn't talking about Herb's models-I have plenty of things I have built but am not proud of. Of course, I paint rust on them, plant them in the dirt behind the enginehouse, put weeds all around...and viewers comment about all the cool junk and how I must have spent hours on all of it. Little do they know that the junk was at one time a model I had high hopes for! Uh oh..I let the cat out...     Woodie



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 Posted: Sat Jan 2nd, 2010 06:32 pm
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W C Greene
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 Herb-expiring minds want to know: HOW'S THE BOXCAB COMING ALONG ? I know you have had a houseful for the holidays, but it's time to get back to work and show us something.

           Happy Li-Po's and a merry ESC......            Woodrow



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 Posted: Sat Jan 2nd, 2010 08:18 pm
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Herb Kephart
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 Yassa yassa massa--please don't beat my old bones


Been working on forming the roof sheet- think I've got it. Now if I can get it attached without messing it up and turning it into sheet------




Herbie  :old dude:



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 Posted: Mon Jan 11th, 2010 01:02 am
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Herb Kephart
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 Started out by making an aluminum template of the end curvature, and wood piece, made to the template curve to form the brass over.



The wood was poplar



And I had quite q bit of trouble getting the brass (even though annealed) to form the eave curves the correct distance apart. After a couple tries, each getting worse, it became evident that the wood was compressing. Finally, an aluminum form block was made to replace the wood, and an acceptable roof sheet was formed.



The two things sitting on top of the engine removal hatch that look like the old vents that were used on barn roofs, are outlets for the muffler



Next major problem is how to make the two cooling pipe assemblies for each end of the roof. These are composed of a stack of transverse pipes each of which has a sharp bend near the roof edge. Two staggered rows, coming out each side of a central tank and terminating in smaller eave tanks. Gotta think about this  L:


Herbie:old dude:




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 Posted: Wed Jan 13th, 2010 01:41 am
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Herb Kephart
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 Well, my pappy useta say D****T boy do sumthin, even if it's wrong.

Following this sage advice I decided to use 16ga copper electrical wire (.050" diameter) for the cooling pipes. A block was made with grooves .070" apart, as I wanted some space between adjacent pipes in the row



The brass strips at each end are only to hold the pipes until the second layer is attached. Here the first layer are soldered to the strips



Then the second layer of pipes is nested between the ones in the first layer, and soldered. This will be the bottom layer when finished



After a good scrub with Comet cleanser and a toothbrush the top layer looks like this.



It will need a little scraping with a graver between the pipes to remove small amounts of excess solder, but so far, so good.


Herb:old dude:




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