 |
| Moderated by: . |
Page: 1 2 3   |
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 29th, 2009 06:58 pm |
|
1st Post |
scratchbuilt
Registered
|
Hi all,
I have started on a RC loco, its called Herbert and every simularity with existing models is not quite coincidental...... It will have the cassettemotor I used before, a 3V batterie, and reciever and ecs from the 1:87 micro-scene. Scale is 1:45 16,5mm track. Oh, there is something more, I made a few scetches before I started to cut plastic, quite an experience for me....
Here is one pic to start with: the chassis...
More to follow,
Albert
|
|
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 10:17 am |
|
2nd Post |
scratchbuilt
Registered
|
A picture:
After I looked at this thread in the Buntbahn-forum : http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=7415&highlight=
I thought I make hood and cabin in card. I've built in card before so it is not as strange as it sounds. Now Herbert is my first loco with a plastic frame and a card housing. The radiator is plastic to. More details will be added as soon as it runs. And, comming to that, running is possible after the last part arrives: the send christal. The sender I bought was cheap and now I know why, many parts were missing. So next thing to do is building the RC-stuff and batterie in.
More to follow.
|
|
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 31st, 2009 12:34 pm |
|
3rd Post |
Huw Griffiths
Registered
|
scratchbuilt wrote: After I looked at this thread in the Buntbahn-forum : http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=7415&highlight=
I thought I make hood and cabin in card. I've built in card before so it is not as strange as it sounds. Now Herbert is my first loco with a plastic frame and a card housing.
A very interesting thread - I can see why it inspired you.
As I haven't used the German language since I was in school (nearly 30 years ago), I obviously found it a bit difficult to work out exactly what everyone was saying - but I understood enough from the pictures.
I quite liked the drive mechanism on the first page - and the card "diesel draisine" later in the thread also looked interesting.
Making locos and rolling stock from card doesn't sound strange to me - it's actually a very old idea - but a lot of people use this method even now. Quite apart from all the card kits produced by Alphagraphix (and others) - garden railway kits from http://www.locolines.net - and downloads from the likes of http://www.papiermodelle.de - it's noticeable how many models on Freerails started as card mock-ups.
Also, a few years ago, I saw some guy at a model railway show, demonstrating how to build models from card - and he'd brought with him a display case full of excellent rolling stock models he'd built in this way. Card might not be the easiest modelling material to work with, but it's perfectly usable if you know what you're doing - I just wish I did!
Sorry to hear about the problems with the R/C gear - I'm sure you will have learnt a lot from that.
Anyway, that's more than enough from me - it'll be interesting to find out how you get on with your models.
Regards,
Huw.
|
|
|
| Posted: Fri Jan 1st, 2010 01:22 am |
|
4th Post |
W C Greene
Moderator
|
Albert-great looking model so far! I am sorry you had problems with the r/c stuff...carry on and you will be rewarded. Cardstock, strathmore board, even old "shirt" cardboard were used many years ago, before things like styrene sheet, milled basswood, etc. became available. In fact, locomotives were built from oak and pine with cardboard cabs and tenders. I remember reading a construction article in which the author built a rather large HO locomotive, turning the boiler from wood and the frame was made from wood also. Parts like drivers and wheels were available, but little else. These days, the models would be considered rather crude, but considering the materials used and the talent it took to make something neat from a shoebox and piece of an orange crate-today's modelers have it very easy! Cardstock seems to be a reasonable medium even now. Please, more photos.
Woodie
____________________
It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
|
|
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 05:03 pm |
|
5th Post |
| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 05:57 pm |
|
6th Post |
W C Greene
Moderator
|
Albert-I am not familiar with the receiver you are using. Black wires (usually) mean negative and red (ditto) mean positive. The input from battery to board is critical, polarities must be observed. The wires to the motor are not critical. If the loco doesn't run in the direction you believe it should, just reverse the motor wires. I am confused about the 2 boards shown and the three wire connection. On the boards I have, there are just 2 in, 2 out, and an antenna. Do you have some sort of schematic from the board that can be followed? Things look OK to me but someone else needs to give you the "green light" on the hookup. Maybe a photo of the receiver/esc would help. Sorry to be so indefinate, but again, I am not familiar with this board and don't want to get you into "hot water"... Woodie
____________________
It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
|
|
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 09:43 pm |
|
7th Post |
scratchbuilt
Registered
|
Pictures as promised. Still waiting for the internetshop comming out of their wintersleep. Until then there will be no further action on Herbert because I can not test run.
The receiver is under the white hood. The ecs is hanging between wires. It will be attached on to the receiverhood.
The tiny black thing on the frame is the switch. I think things can approve when I change to Lipo's, the (selfmade) batteryholder is taking a lot of space.
More to come.....
|
|
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 11:34 pm |
|
8th Post |
Huw Griffiths
Registered
|
W C Greene wrote: I am not familiar with the receiver you are using. Black wires (usually) mean negative and red (ditto) mean positive. The input from battery to board is critical, polarities must be observed. I am not familiar with this board and don't want to get you into "hot water"...
This is an issue I've often encountered.
Because I've got some electrical / electronic training, a number of people (students - more recently friends and relatives) have collared me, expecting instant, detailed, guidance about equipment I've never seen - then haven't liked it when I've been unable to answer.
The advice is excellent - but anything else needs manufacturer's data.
A lot of equipment will have the manufacturer's name and model on it - perhaps other info as well - often on a plate or sticker known as a "nameplate". Given this info, it might be possible to go to the manufacturer's website and download datasheets, instructions, application notes, or other info (much of which is likely to come in very useful).
It's a bit like the component datasheets I rely on whenever I design, build or modify electronic circuits. Without this stuff, I might be lucky and just about able to guess how to switch something on. With this stuff, there's a chance I might actually be able to do something useful.
This is why I've always made a point of holding onto data - I just never know when I might need it!
By the way, the build is looking very neat so far - always a good sign. When you've got things finalized, I hope you're also able to run the wires as neat as this - and label them - then draw up an easy to follow wiring diagram.
(There's nothing wrong with a bit of slack in the wires, to allow for moving things when you need to access other stuff - all that matters is that the slack doesn't get in the way and doesn't get tangled!)
This isn't a criticism - I'm just thinking ahead, in case you need to modify it or do any repairs a few years down the line. This could easily happen - usually after you've forgotten what goes where - and I wouldn't want all your good work to be in vain. (Before you ask, this comment is based on experience - I've often had to modify things, especially other people's work - and I'm just trying to stop you falling into a common trap!)
Regards,
Huw.
Last edited on Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 11:39 pm by Huw Griffiths
|
|
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 4th, 2010 02:59 am |
|
9th Post |
Current time is 07:32 pm | Page: 1 2 3 |
|
|
|
