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- MDC - K27 - Kit-Bash -
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Wed Feb 10th, 2010 08:11 pm
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Herb Kephart
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It's coming along nicely Bill!

At first it looked to me like the boiler was too low, but since you checked the top of boiler to rail dimension, it must be because the mechanism is a lighter color that gives the impression- sorry that I doubted.



Herb  :old dude:



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 Posted: Wed Feb 10th, 2010 08:29 pm
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Bill Fornshell
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Hi Herb,

I agree with you and I had to look long and hard at the pictures I have.
I have several good photos that make the K27 look long and low, but I had to check the measurements from the drawings against the model to make sure it was correct. I don't know about the MMi HOn3 K27. It has always looked to high for me. The Blackstone K27 looks lower then the MMi model. The real K27's changed some over the years so the two models may have been made from different version of the real K27's.

I was really happy that I was on the money with the height and length.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 10th, 2010 09:45 pm
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W C Greene
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Well fellow pit-nickers...as any great D&RGW locomotive fan can tell you, the look of the K-27 depended on which year, month, day, and hour. #478 may look different on July 8, 1942 @ 10:17AM than it did on July 9, 1942 @ 6:47 AM. Any real counter knows these things.

          Hasta lumbego..     Boudreaux



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 Posted: Wed Feb 10th, 2010 11:58 pm
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pibull63
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c'mon bill.....i'm waitin' for the next installment.  i've got parts on order......steve 



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2010 01:00 am
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Bill Fornshell
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pibull63 wrote:
c'mon bill.....i'm waitin' for the next installment.  i've got parts on order......steve 

Hey pitbull,

Send money, Now that I have you hooked you gotta pay for the "rest of the story".

I have been working on how I am going to mount the models motor all day and I am not finished yet. I am about to mill out some space in the front of the boiler and see if that works. I am trying to use a sort of small "can motor" but the bracket that hold the transfer gear in place and the lower boiler don't want to co-habitat.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2010 05:29 am
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Bill Fornshell
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I have been working on how I am going to mount the models motor. I am using a sort of small "can motor" but the bracket that hold the transfer gear in place and the lower boiler don't want to co-habitat. I decided to mill out some of the metal from the "inside front" of the boiler to give me the space I needed.

19. Motor install and tested to see how it runs. Runs Ok.


20.


21. Before, the drive gear bracket has no space to fit inside the front part of the stock boiler.


22. Milling some metal from the inside of the boiler so the bracket on the drive gear fits inside the lowered boiler. The wooden jig has holes for both the steam and sand domes to sit in and the boiler is screwed into the piece of wood to keep it from moving.


23.


24. Boiler modified for the extra space necessary for the drive gear bracket.


20. Before,


25. After, the drive gear bracket now has space so the boiler is back in its lowered position.


26. The difference between the stock boiler and the milled out modified boiler.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2010 04:31 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Good idea with the wood fixture Bill--One of the key things to learn (after how the machine works) is how to be resourceful.



Herb:old dude:



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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2010 05:22 pm
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Bill Fornshell
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ebtm3 wrote:
Good idea with the wood fixture Bill--One of the key things to learn (after how the machine works) is how to be resourceful.



Herb:old dude:


Hi Herb,

Yep, I agree and it also helps if you use your tools often enough so you don't forget how to set them up with your safety in mind.

I am proud to say that I have used wood working tools and worked on a lot of cars during my life and still have all my fingers etc.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2010 05:27 pm
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Bill Fornshell
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After I milled the inside of the boiler to get more space I think the older style motor would have worked. I will check that to make sure one way or the other. If it works then someone that wanted to make a model such as mine could use the older motor if they could not find one of the "Can" motors. If they added DCC and Sound to one of the older motors they might not hear the motor noise. The "Can" motor is quieter then the older style motor.

The "Can" motor I am using came with a later?? MDC (HOn3) 2-8-0 Inside Frame Kit that I bought off eBay. Someone had started the kit and didn't finish it. I bought it cheap. I have several other MDC kits that also came with that "Can" motor or one like it.



The pictures shows the two different MDC Motors and the gears necessary to mate them with the chassis. You can see that the old style motor needs three gears and the newer Can motor only uses two gears. The worm gears on the motor shaft are also different. You need the set that comes with that Can motor to make it work.

After having said all the above I think that NWSL makes or made a kit to re-gear the old style motor to a two gear setup. I have several of these re-gear kits and just tried to call David at NWSL about them. He is not in yet, time zone difference between me and him. I will call back later and ask about the gear kits and if they sell a "Can" motor that might work with them.

Last edited on Tue Jun 21st, 2011 04:36 pm by Bill Fornshell

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 Posted: Fri Feb 12th, 2010 05:29 am
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Bill Fornshell
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I was able to talk to David at NWSL this morning. He said they can supply all the gears etc that the old company had. You will need to tell him how many teeth the gears have so he can get you the correct worm gear.

So what is new? K27 number two - or I might say #460 and friends. K27 Locomotives numbered 450, 451, 457, and 460 were still equipped with slide-valve cylinders when they were scrapped in 1939. K27 #460 also was one of the ones with the extended smokebox so this model should go fast. This cylinder type looks like the style that comes on the MDC 2-8-0 so I will use the stock cylinder arrangement.

2.1.


2.2.


2.3.


2.4.


2.5.


2.6.


2.7.

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