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Gila Tramway mini layout in On20
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  ...  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 02:13 pm
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W C Greene
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Brian-you are right, a small grade on a tiny layout can have a great impact. I have the new switchback roadbed worked in & ties laid, next is the last switch and rail. I am still thinking about using the Caboose Hobbies groundthrows (I have used them before) or hooking the switches up to the good old (and cheap) "knob & rod" throws. I used the latter on my old On20 layout and it worked quite well. It boils down to 20 bucks vs maybe 2 bucks...still thinking..

The scenery and structures are on my mind now, this little layout will be a 360 degree view-the large "mesa" with switchbacks will serve as a "view block" between front and back. The structures will have to be fully modeled with interiors since everything is "up front"..but there aren't many planned for this. I will need to prowl through all the dusty old boxes of stuff in the garage to find O scale details, figures, and a couple of vechicles and will probably have to buy some new stuff. Since this layout won't be staying outside, I can go back to "normal" construction techniques and may be able to have some trees here & there to add some green to the scene.

I have slowed up a little on this project, the weather is beautiful and I need to mess with the Mogollon Railway some to get her ready for the Outlaw visit at the end of the month.  So little time, too much junk to glue down.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 03:11 pm
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acousticco
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Lookin' good Woodie!
and thanks for the switch building link, very good information.
-Cody

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 08:06 pm
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W C Greene
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Here's an update: The switches are all installed and working, the throws are described.



I decided to use "knob & rod" switch throws. Much cheaper than the commercial throws and more positive. They are just .039 music wire inside aluminum tubing which is bent to provide tension in the linkage...the points stay put when thrown. Later, small wooden knobs will be epoxied to the wires and all will be "prettied up".



Here's a view of the layout with some very rough "scenery" being built. I found a large piece of old white foam in the garage and since it will be used for scenery, it does the job. Some bits of blue foam are glued to it and all will be cut and "massaged" into what I hope will be typical New Mexico/Arizona scenery.



Here are two of my "tools" for cutting foam. I have an old keyhole saw for rough cuts and then use an old serrated kitchen knife for the "precise" cutting. Also, I will go over this with a wire brush in a Moto-Tool to fine tune the looks. The mine buildings will be built in place later. This rough scenery will be glued to the blue foam base after I get all the trackwork tuned up and then the dirt will start to fly. I will probably go over the foam with some lightweight spackle and work it to look more like rockwork. I would show a wiring diagram since this is a dc layout, but there are only 2 wires run to the back side of the "mainline" and one gap at the frog on the passing siding. The layout works well without any "fancy" electronics.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 08:48 pm
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brianwbc
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That's terrific, Woodie!! Using the "knob & rod" is a great idea - the fewer wires the better. The scenery will work well as a view block and the small size of the layout won't be so apparent.

Looking forward to more!

Cheers

Brian



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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 09:44 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Great progress Woodie, but you're going to have to cut at least one more gap at the switchback, and a couple more feed wires to the tail track going to the right aintcha?

Now with batteries, and R/C--------------




Herbie:old dude:

Last edited on Mon Mar 15th, 2010 10:11 pm by Herb Kephart



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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 10:05 pm
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W C Greene
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That's right Herb, I did have to run ONE wire from the main to the tail of the first switchback and another gap in the switchback. Oh, this is so very complicated.  Yes, yes, I know that I could have done this with r/c, but then I would need a "trailer car" for the stuff and I would have to engineer the loco instead of just sitting and watching the thing run around & around.  One change-I am making all the old KD couplers into link & pin couplers. The KD's are metal ones, I just pulled the trip pins and dropped the knuckles and carved them up with a moto tool and they have become "back dated". I suppose that I will post a photo of this also. It was either do this or replace all the couplers with new long shank KD's so things would make it around the sharp curves. Remember that this ain't ROCKET SURGERY! More to follow...



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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 10:15 pm
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Herb Kephart
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HO KD's converted must take something the size of frog whiskers for pins- or are you using small staples between the couplers?



Herbie  :old dude:



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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 10:21 pm
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W C Greene
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OK-I will take pix of the stinkin' couplers. Another fine mess you've got me into....



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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 11:08 pm
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GilpinFan
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Woodie,
Looking good!!!:2t:I'm going to build all my switches like that, and have hand operated throw mechs. similar to yours.
My 1/35n2 Shay conversion is almost complete,will have to post some photos. I have started building bench work for my Gilpin tram, so far I have an 8 ft. by 12 ft. ELL section built in one corner of my shop building.

What type of mine buildings will you have, like open head frames or enclosed buildings? Enquireing minds want to know!

Keep up the good work,

Ken

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 11:51 pm
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Dave D
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I am liking this a lot Woodrow.

Is that white stuff upholstery foam, or the open cell stuff like they pack electronics in?



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