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Gila Tramway mini layout in On20
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  ...  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Tue Mar 16th, 2010 06:46 am
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Lucas Gargoloff
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It´s coming to get life!!! I like your track work, wish to learn laying my own track soon, when tools and spikes arrives, off course lol.:)



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 Posted: Tue Mar 16th, 2010 10:03 am
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W C Greene
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Dave-the white foam is that old open cell crumbly foam that everybody warns about. It won't work for layout building but does quite well for scenery when covered with spackle or plaster.  Carving it is a mess, I will wait for a windy day so the particles will get blown away.

Ken-the knob & rod switch controls are old tech, I used them on my old On20 layout and they did the job. It's a manual way of operating the points without having to reach into the scene and the price is just right...85 cents for a 3 foot piece of tubing and 1.29 for 5-3 foot pieces of music wire. I used this on the Mogollon Railway but later changed the switch controls to DPDT/SPDT toggles to get something that looked like a switchstand, and they hold the rails in position when thrown. No, I don't have any wires hooked up to them...


Lucas-it is easier to handlay track than to mess with flex and you can make your own switches to fit any situation. This is the way things were done before the days of RTR locos and plastic freight cars...back when Mudge was a young un'...

Last edited on Tue Mar 16th, 2010 10:06 am by W C Greene



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 Posted: Thu Mar 18th, 2010 03:12 pm
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W C Greene
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Here are a couple of more photos for your perusal...



This photo shows the foam all glued down and some newspaper soaked in glue to fill the "voids". I put masking tape over the tracks to keep from getting spackle all over.



I use "lightweight spackle" already mixed up in a plastic can. The stuff I bought is from Home Depot and is the "house brand"...cost about 6 bucks and I got 2 of them for this project. Where it gets messy is when I use my hands to smear and smush the spackle all over the foam and newspaper mache. I use the lightweight stuff because it is truly light and sticks to foam wery well. In fact, this is the same stuff that Woodland Scenics sells as "foam putty" for a good bit more money! Doing this outside makes for no mess indoors and the sun dries the spackle out very quickly. I found that one can covered almost the entire layout, the other can will be for "details" and finishing. While I was at the store, I bought 2 large cans of cheap spray enamel-Nutmeg and Fossil-which will do to paint the layout which will then have other colors washed on followed by some nice sifted dirt and rock and some WS greenery all held down with the good old 50/50 glue & water trick. Now things are starting to come together...

Last edited on Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 10:37 pm by W C Greene



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 Posted: Fri Mar 19th, 2010 01:00 pm
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bobbyb
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Looking good Woodie!:2t:

You know that second photo could pass for a Ice Mining scene in Antarctica. :bg:

Bobby



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 Posted: Fri Mar 19th, 2010 08:04 pm
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W C Greene
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Bobby thinks that the layout looks like the "ice planet" and I just couldn't let that one by...OK, here it is-the "backside" is painted with the spray bombs and some dirt & greenery have been glued down. I just went down the alley to my secret dirt source and got some coffee cans full. Then I sifted the fine stuff down to become "ballast" and the smaller rocks become....rocks. I was so excited that I didn't give the dirt time to dry, it will turn a lighter shade when it's ready and I will add some more coloration and washes to the "rockwork" on the cliff. You might be able to see the link & pin coupler on the front of #4, made from a KD #5 with the knuckle cut off and some Moto Tool work with a cutoff wheel. Harold has a great piece on making l&p's from knuckle couplers here in freerails, but I haven't found it yet...somebody know where it is? I am making progress...now I have to build some structures, oh boy!



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 Posted: Fri Mar 19th, 2010 09:01 pm
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bobbyb
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I'm liking it Woodie. I really like the way your ballasting works. It just looks "Real", like you would expect from a small line more interested in doing the job than the beauty of the line. My kind of a RR!

Bobby

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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2010 12:37 pm
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W C Greene
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 Here's a great link to link & pin couplers, it ain't the one I was thinking about from Harold, I guess he must have deleted the thread. Anyway, all who are lovers of the arcane and antique will appreciate this.  Have fun and build something...with l & p couplers!

http://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=2316&forum_id=4

Here' I think this is closer, but still not Harold's piece...

Last edited on Sat Mar 20th, 2010 06:04 pm by W C Greene



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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2010 05:03 pm
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bobbyb
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Hey Woodie, is this the link that you were talking about?

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/link_n_pin/

I remember going to it once trying to learn about link and pin couplers. I think that this is from Harold's site. I know I have read some pretty good tips there.


My bad. I have the right one here now I think. I was looking around over there when I copied the link and wasn't where I thought I was.:doh:

Bobby

Last edited on Sat Mar 20th, 2010 06:07 pm by bobbyb



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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2010 06:01 pm
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W C Greene
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Bobby-that is the right one... Really, with all the searching and looking involved, one could make several pair of  l & p's during the time involved. I might suggest taking an old KD #5 (or similar) METAL (KD is the only ones to make them from metal) and sitting down with a Dremel with cutoff wheel and whacking away anything that doesn't look like a l & p coupler. The trip pin hole is already done, just a case of careful fiddling and...there you are! I don't think I will be making a step-by-step on this, anybody who wants to make these couplers already probably has the ability and tools to do it. And I will bet money that if there are 27 guys out here who want to make these things, there will be at least 30 ways of doing so! The only reason that I did these couplers is that the old KD #5's ran great on my old On20 layout with 18" curves, on this little one with 10" curves, they didn't have the swing to work right. I didn't want to spend more money and time to convert 12 year old cars with longer shanks so I just used what I had and made it work. Besides, I am probably not going to do any real operation here, just watch the little train run around & around. If I want to operate with l & p's..I have a whole large layout full  of them. The couplers on the Mogollon are made from rectangular brass tubing, a project in itself.

I could have modified several couplers in the time it has taken me to type this out with my one finger system. Go figure.              Woodie

PS-check my last post, I had the link wrong but fixed it. It's still not the one I was wanting, but was what I could find.

Last edited on Sat Mar 20th, 2010 06:12 pm by W C Greene



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 Posted: Sat Mar 20th, 2010 06:14 pm
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bobbyb
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I like the l & p couplers, but can see where they might be a hassle with a layout that you plan to do a lot of operations on. Not being up on all the RR history, from what I have seen (and maybe just because I have been looking at them the most), they seem to have been used on the older rail roads in the logging and mining areas.

Bobby

Looking for some enlightenment.



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