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O scale Stone Building
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 Posted: Mon Mar 31st, 2014 02:00 pm
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madmike3434
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mabloodhound wrote:
Nice!
Especially those stairs. It is good to see someone use the correct pitch for stair stringers instead on the old 45ยบ steep ones.


They look just like the laser cut BANTA or riches RSLASER KITS O scale stair stringers. They come in kit form with the stringers already cut with that same bottom and the top. They come jigged for 2-4-6 ft wide treads

I used them a lot.

mike :old dude:

Last edited on Mon Mar 31st, 2014 02:01 pm by madmike3434

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 Posted: Mon Mar 31st, 2014 07:58 pm
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wclm
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Mike
The jig is nothing more than four strips of wood. The nice thing is that you can build various width staircases. You just need to add additional stringers to meet the building codes.
Clif K



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 Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2016 06:53 pm
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Si.
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" tin is homemade and rusted in Archer Ecthant "

Hi Clif

First of all, what a crazily WONDERFUL building !!
I totally love it !

:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:

I'm guessing that 'etchant' is circuit-board making Ferric-Chloride, from Radio Shack.
( used to know the 'Archer' brand in the UK )

What metal did you use for the corrugated roof ?
Steel ? ... Right ?

I've seen a load of different ways to do 'corrugations' of late...
...how did you do yours ?

:moose:

Si.

I used 'salt water' on some old 1:24 Russ Simpson corrugated material years ago...
...it actually ate through the metal !
Took an ETERNITY to happen though...

:shocked:



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 Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2016 07:19 am
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darrylhuffman
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I have enjoyed looking at these photos again.

I especially like the coloring of the stone.

Great work.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 9th, 2016 01:18 am
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wclm
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Your correct on the etchant. That is the brand from Radio Shack. I guess there are other brands of Ferric-chloride out there. The process is to submerge the metal tape (made from aluminum duct tape described later) in the etchant. It will start to fizz in a minute or two. The big issue when using the stuff is that the fumes from it are potent and hazardous. Use only in very well ventilated area. You can watch the action and stop it at any point by picking it out of the etchant and into a bath of water and the rinse under running water and let dry on a paper towel.
The corrugated metal is made from aluminum duct tape. It is used to seal joints in ductwork for heating or air conditioning.To make the corrugations,I press it between a home made jig consisting of corrugated wood glued to blocks of 2x4 wood and framed to get the same position all the time. If interested I will post a couple pics of the jig. The tape has an adhesive back. I make the corrugations with the tape backing in place and remove the paper backing just prior to etching. It sounds complicated but is actually quite easy and yields a lot for very little cost.
Clif K



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 Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2017 05:20 pm
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tommyc
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Love to see the jig! Please post.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2017 05:33 pm
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wclm
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I will take a couple of pics and post for viewing.
Clif K



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 Posted: Tue Mar 7th, 2017 12:38 am
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wclm
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I hope you can figure these pics out. Technically they should be in another category.


showing closed in working stage



aluminum duct tape cut  used



cut it to dimension needed



result after smacking the closed block with rubber mallet a couple times with duct tape in jig



you can then remove and etch the tape.



Follow the directions religiously. Good idea to do outside with test pieces to see the results and what happens. One note as you etch more and more strips the solution warms up and the action speeds up with the heat. Use a plastic bowl large enough for four pieces to float in. You only need a shallow amount of etchant in the bowl. I use a plastic bowl with warm water for rinse. You can always put the tape back in the solution if you haven't got the right effect.  Last note "this stuff is hazardous if you are not careful" For that matter so are Xacto knives.
Clif K



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Clif Korlaske

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 Posted: Sat Mar 11th, 2017 10:22 am
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darrylhuffman
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Clif, I keep coming back to your photos of the stone walls.
I have been trying to duplicate the look of your stones without success.
If you have do a short "how-to" for coloring stone walls I would really enjoy seeing it.
Darryl Huffmandarrylhuffman@yahoo.com



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 Posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2017 11:55 pm
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wclm
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Darryl
 The process I used on the building is as follows,
I fist give the castings a good coating of clear matte acrylic spray. You can do do it before or after assembly. Sometimes it works best with all the walls laying out flat.
It usually only takes a short time for the clear coat to be absorbed and dry. I will look as if you have actually done nothing to the  surface, but it does seal the hydrocal castings. The reasoning is that it seals and keeps your colors from being absorbed to quickly. I also seals some areas a lot more than others, giving  the look on some areas that the colors are different shades or very little color at all.
After a half hour or so the clear coat should be dry. Then I use a small plastic palette from Hobby Lobby for the colors. I use the one that has five or six small cups in it. The colors are your choice. Mine are again Hobby Lobby cheap acrylics. The ones like Apple Barrel, Americana, or whatever is cheap 69 cents a bottle. I like the sandy gold color, light tan, light brown, light gray. I you have a larger palette all the better. Next look in the Hobby Lobby art supplies for a small bottle of Flow Medium. There are a few different brands. Add several drops of the to each bottle of color you use. As it says it really makes the paints flow nicely. Shake the bottles very good to mix it in Put a small amount into the cups of each color you choose. Four or five different colors. Then mix in a few drops of water to each for a thin wash. You can test your thinning on a sheet of copy paper. This will let you see if you need to add more color or more water the palette. You can even mix the colors for slightly different shade of each. Now your ready for the job. Paint the first color over several stones. Some people work light to dark or dark to light. You can see mine is primarily the sandy gold. Hit other stones with varying amounts of the colors. I try  not to get a huge difference in the coloring. You don't have to worry about very precise coloring of each stone. last step I use a small medicine dropper to flow an ink alcohol mix between the stones. Hold your wall sections up so the ink mixture flows down around the blocks. You can even flow the ink over the colors and on the wood cracks or grain. Hopefully this helps. It is a real trial and error method. You can try your colors on the back side of the walls. If you or anyone has more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Even post pics for suggestions if you like. It is great to see that people have interest in what you have done.
Clif K



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Clif Korlaske

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