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Paladin
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Golly its been awhile since last posting on this thread.

The track on the layout has been sort of finished, 3 Tortiose motors to install and the Turntable with the roundhouse, sounds easy enough.

I have been working on some of the rock work. 

Rocks are made using casting plaster, about 70 kgs to date, would guess about another 100 kgs to go.

I have a friend Peter Sutton who has been showing me his method.  He kept me busy mixing and pouring plaster while he placed the castings. Peter makes his own molds, about 50 of which some are 30 inches long,  but that's another story

Herbert has been bugging me for a few progress photo's, so here we go.



This area is just over 6 feet above floor level, thus creating a view block.



The Grotto, showing the area that will have a river.



Some detail



And more detail

Showing a a section that has only had the tint coat of paint.


The painting was done using acrylic paints at full strength and brushed on except for the base tint which was sprayed with a pump bottle. Used 4 different colours that were blended when brushing.




W C Greene
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Don-don't show us photos of real scenery, I thought this was about your....er...sorry. It IS your scenery! EXCELLENT! Keep on keepin' on...

                               Woodie

Herb Kephart
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Donald, the wait has been worth it!!

And you say that you are less than half way done?

I'm thinking that your house must have a pretty substantial foundation :bg:

Looks like you are going to have scenery that will tower over, and dwarf the trains, just as it should with the area that you are modeling.

Well done, my friend!!


Herbie  :old dude:

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Most impressive indeed...the texture and coloring are very realistic.

danpickard
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Nice Don, and Pete is very good with his rock work as well. I quite like the colouring that you have achieved as well. It has turned out as an impressive view block, and with a slither of track hugging the rockface, will make an enjoyable section to negotiate a train through.

So I gather its not very transportable :)

Nice to see some progress in your neck of the shed.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard

Lucas Gargoloff
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So, you´ve been busy!! Nice rocks :Salute: ! The view block sounds interesting.

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Excellent rock work! I'm curious to know what he uses to make his molds.

lostinoz
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Hi Don

Maybe we can get Pete to join the forum and do an article on the rock castings.



Ralph.

Paladin
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Have been working on the dividing range, this acts as a view block so that the whole layout is not seen as you enter.

Constructed using chicken wire formed over timber uprights, then applying plaster cloth, with a coating of plaster over that.

The structure is about 12 feet long and tops out about 6 feet above floor level. It is only 2 feet wide.

Next up will be the addition of thin rock castings.







That's all folks

Don

Herb Kephart
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Don,

The last photo is very good--shows how a little greenery can complement all the rock color---which in itself is nice!

Evergreens are usually very shallow rooted, so it is conceivable that one could grow on that outcrop-along with the other bushes, etc.

I think that you should encourage Peter to join, and do  a post on rockwork, as Ralph suggested.

Herb 

wclm
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Great work. I really like the grotto idea. Just don't get lost in a canyon somewhere.
                                                                    :thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb: WCLM

W C Greene
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Don-keep on rockin'...!
Woodie

Stickboy
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+1 for a rock tutorial please!

Phil

Lynn
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If the last picture is any indication of how the rest will look you'll be rockin.:)

CM
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I second the motion for a rock tutoral:bg:
Carl

Paladin
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A few more rocks

Trestle #1 has been added and tested, as you can see it's a long way down to the river bed ( 27 inches ) So do not want trains going for a high dive. I have yet to add check rails. Now working on Trestle #2 as you can see in the second photo.

There has been a lot of plaster mixed.  Casting and pouring is job #1 ( One operator ) then placing the castings and hiding the joins. Used paper towels saturated in a plaster slurry to fill in any gaps ( Operator #2 )

I have used Spackfilla in the past but the cost would be to expense in this case. So far about 200 kgs of plaster used.






Don

Lucas Gargoloff
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wwwwooooow, that is impressive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How about some aerial pics of the layout? I want to see how it´s coming. Thanks for share Don!!!

BELG
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Don, fantastic progress and I'd love to see Peter join and show us a step by step on how to build these. A you-tube video would be even better. I'd also love to hear any tips for creating the molds, I have been making mine with woodland scenic rubber and this just takes way to long. On some of my bigger ones as long as 10 days for one mold. I have been using some quartz rocks I got on a job site for my smaller ones and really love how they came out. Really to scale for HO. The height of your walls is very dramatic and love the future plans as well. Pat

Herb Kephart
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VERY nice Don!

If I may suggest an improvement, there should be some cross bracing between the separate trestle bents to absorb the for and aft thrusts.

You really have been busy, haven't you?



Herb 

Paladin
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The start of the Eastern slopes

Decided to install the small mine in this area.

A small group of mates dropped around last Friday to have a working bee making trees and the temptation to plant a few was far to great

This area is about 30 inches long.


madmike3434
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DAMN, THAT ROCK CASTING AND COLOURING IS FANTASTIC.

 

MIKE

Lucas Gargoloff
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I´m agree with Mike, those rock work are incredible, love the colour too. :thumb:

titus
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Don,

I intend to come back in a few months and to study the heck out of this thread, and how you did those vertical rock walls because they look amazing (and I want to learn how to do that!).

Paladin
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Here is shot of the UGLY SIDE of the rock castings. This will never be seen when more rocks are placed.

This method starts at the TOP and works down


Start out by selecting the height you require the rocks to be. Now cut some 2 x 1 to the chosen size and fit them in place. ( nothing critical about placement)

Choose the castings you want to use, Place the mold in to a box that has a couple of inches of sand in it,Now nestle the mold into the sand giving the shape required. Make sure you have about 3 inches of the mold at 90 degrees to give a area that can be hooked onto the 2 x 1 uprights.

I have used casting plaster, Again use what you chose, I am sure it will not make any difference.  I would suggest that you use the same substrate for the entire exercise, Some substrates may have different surfaces that may re-act differently with your paints

Now its time to start hanging the castings, make sure they are well supported on the 2 x 1 uprights. Fix them in place using paper towels ( Cheap single ply ) saturated in a plaster slurry. Don't worry to much about the castings not fitting each other, just get them as close as you can. If the fit does not work well now is the time to play around  or even remove it from the scene, once the plaster towels go off it's going to be harder to correct. The gaps can be filled with paper towel again soaked in a plaster slurry, Then go over it with some plaster that is about to go off. push it into place with your fingers then pick at it with  hobby knife or similar

Now the upper layer is done move down to the bottom and work your way up.

By doing the top layer first you can build the lower molds in front thus working your way down and forward.

As you can see in the photo you will only need about 4 inches of depth for each layer.

If you are doing large area of rock such as I, Get a mate to give you a hand.  When plaster starts to go off it all starts at the one time. It can be a little rushed. If you are on your own I would suggest doing small areas at a time until you get comfortable with it



The molds I used are home made with couple of commercial ones. My friend Peter has made about 50 molds and he kindly let me use them. They are latex rubber and appear to stand up well. Don't be in a hurry to remove the casting from the mold, do it carefully and you should not damage the mold. The first time I attempted to remove the casting from the mold I was not game to apply to much force, but it does require some effort, just a little bit at a time.

Hopefully I have explained things well but if not fire questions at me.

titus
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You're right, that is the ugly side.

So, when you setup the mold in the sandbox, are you saying you actually bend the top back at 90º then in the box? How exactly does that work?

How adept do you think this method is to moving, for example, if the section of layout was moved from one side of the room or put in a moving truck and taken to a new location?

Last edited on Wed Dec 7th, 2011 11:17 pm by titus

Paladin
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Titus

The latex/rubber molds are very pliable and they allow you to roll the mold up the side or end of the sand box. This not an exact science, all you need is to have a part of the mold that will allow you to hang the casting on the 2x1 uprights. If you can not get the curve how you want it it can be cast in 2 lots, that is pour the hook section and when that goes off re-position the mold and pour the major section

As for shifting or transporting I would guess it depends on the size. The amount of plaster will determine the weight .  Also the joins between the castings may not be very strong. As the whole thing is connected to the super structure you may not be able to move it.

In short I would not like to try shifting or transporting. Keep in mind plaster is heavy, in my case about 300 lbs, also it is not flexible, and I suspect it may snap at the weakest points

Bragdon molds are made using Latex/Rubber and they bend quite well  One advantage of using some of the larger molds is you can cast portions and rotate to give different affects. The rocks on my layout are about 4 feet tall and we only used 5 or 6 molds. when painted it's hard to pick the different casting or the duplication of castings.

Don




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very impressive i like what you are doing i have seen a few layouts but they didn't match what you are doing. i hope when i get brave and try this i will have learned enough to make mine look good.

Paladin
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Titus

I have been thinking (It hurts ) about making things transportable. If you built a base structure out of timber and made the whole shooting match portable. That is the frame work is portable including the plaster casting it should be do-able. Again this would depend on the size. Not sure how much bouncing it would stand in a van but it should be OK relocating on your layout.

Don

titus
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Don,

That's a bit like what I have setup now. I have a handful of 6-7ft sections of which the legs can detach off of. If it came to moving I would probably cut the rocks between sections and then just have to do repair at their new location.

I suppose too at the end of the day if the rocks did break it would just be a great opportunity to improve them with a new version. I'm not quite at the plaster scenery stage for what I'm working on, but I'm going to keep this technique filed away for a few months down the road.

Sullivan
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O-M-G! (OK...everyone's really tired of that acronym). In this case...well...

I didn't realize from the frontal shots that you had only supported all those mountains on 1x2's. That's just amazing. Everyone I know around here uses some sort of supporting medium be it chicken wire or cardboard strips or whatever.

I am duly impressed!

Also, I don't know about others but I really like to see the skeleton of a layout; the behind the scenes stuff. I know the mags have to show impressive finished scenes but once in a while I wish they would show the "here's where I started" or the "in the process of" shots.

Thanks for sharing.

Paladin
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A few trees.  Thought I would take a break from the rocks

Had a few mates around and we all got stuck into making trees, They are made using the twisted wire and rope fibre.  The following picture has about 44 conifers and several Aspens using Supa trees.

The supa trees are difficult to bring into Australia with our import rules. I did manage to find a hobby shop that imports them in bulk orders.

I have included a Porter and a Boxcar for a size comparison.

I can make about 20 trees a day with out busting my gut.



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Looking good Don!!

Only how many more to go??

Herb 

W C Greene
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Great stuff Don. After about 3 or 4 thousand more, it will either look like Colorado or you will be in the looney bin!
Woodrow

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Fantastic stuff Don!! How bout an overall view? Your mine looks great, downright inspirational sir!

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Wow. Love the rocks. keeping a close eye on your layout. Do you have a track plan drawn up yet?

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Yes, excellent. Just found this tread.  Very nice indeed. More photos please. Jim;)

Lucas Gargoloff
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Hi Don, any progress in the layout??

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Wow Don awesome work! The Rocks and the color are great! Thanks for the pictures!
Warren

Paladin
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A few rocks with a train on the trestles at Sutton Crossing.

Both of the trestles are close to being finished. 

I had my fingers crossed as the various locos found their way across, There is a 27 inch drop . I was being very very carefull.

I have been rather slow working on the Sutton crossing. Time flies when your having fun.


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don, want to back that camera up and give us a wider view of bridge area. Bridge  looks safe to me.

 

mike

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The thing that worries me is the welfare of the widow of the stone mason who was setting the first course on the abutment.

Scaling that rock face and laying up that stone must have been quite an adventure.

Please post a coupe 'o pics of the guys on the work platform,
suspended from the wreck crane that had inched up to the precipice and any other construction too.

Oh, by the way, you're invited anytime to 'cliff up' my library wall where the reasonably nice portal lays up against the sheetrock.

Duncan


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Wow, after that I have to tear mine down and start again. Amazing craftsmanship and huge inspiration.

Thanks for posting it all.

:doh:

Last edited on Wed Apr 4th, 2012 05:48 pm by Pops

Lost Creek RR
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Hi Don

The area around the Trestles is looking fantastic. Good to get those locy's running right the way round.

Catch you soon

Rod.

W C Greene
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JUST BE-AUTI-FUL...great work Don.

Woodrow

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Don, I totally agree that you are doing a fantastic job!

I would also like to see a couple of shots showing as much as possible of the whole layout, even the parts, if any, that don't have track yet.

Helps us to get a relationship of the different scenes to one another.


Herb 

Paladin
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Gentlemen and others

Due to extreme pressure and nagging by my fellow Freerail members here are a few shot of the layout as at today.

Herb has asked if I could get some shots of the tracks, Madmike would like to see some shots taken from further way

These photos are happy snaps in some cases using a flash, but I think they tell the story. Some of these may appear to be repeats but they will help the overall plan come together.



Looking south on the divider wall. Note the height of the trestle




This is the yards at #1 Depot  Looking south along the east edge

More pictures to follow

danpickard
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Hi Don,

Fire extinguisher in the corner...remind me not to have you do my wiring!

I like the track diagram along the fascia,
which should make it clear to visitors for trying to translate the layout surface down to the control panel for switching moves.

I've had my fair share of running on other layouts and trying to interpret where I'm at to work out what switch to throw.

Thanks for the pics.

Cheers,

Dan Pickard


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Don--you have been busy!

And it has resulted in what appears to be a knockout layout.

Good on you, Mate!



Herb 

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Don

I'm a rock fan and you have done a fantastic job,
and am reminded of a layout I once saw where the fascia was painted with the rock strata all the way to the floor.

It was done in similar colors (at least on the uppermost strata) to the exposed cliff work.
It was terrific as it minimized the mind jump when looking at the total layout.

However, I'm confused.
On Oct 26th last year, you posted a pic of a trestle with the end bents springing from the bottom of the gulch.
Is that a different one that is just around the corner from the latest post?
In comparing the peaks of the hills, this appears to be the case.
 
Any plan layout shots or sketches so we can travel this treacherous ROW along with you?

Duncan


chasv
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:old dude::moose::moose::moose::moose::2t::glad:

Paladin
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Duncan

Herewith a picture of both trestles.

Maybe you can understand this a little better.




aethereus
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Don Thanks so much.

A number of years ago I took my family via VIA from Vancouver to Calgary,
and was amazed how we could be sitting in an observation car
(with drinks clinking in our glasses, of course)
on our way into the Kicking Horse Pass tunnels,
that anyone could ever imagine that it was possible to get to this remote and beautiful place, let alone build a railway there.

It must have been pioneers like yours that realized that to build not just one,
but TWO trestles 100 feet above the creek only to advance the rails a couple hundred yards,
that paved the way for such fabulous engineering triumphs.

I only hope that the poor mason setting that first course of abutment stones on the right hand trestle was your only loss.
What brave souls also to venture the first consist across.

Keep us all posted on your adventures as you did with that tentative first crossing.

I'm inspired to go out and start making some latex molds and get my library 'cliffed-up'.

Thanks for the long shot and the push you have provided to get us all going.

Duncan


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Looks like the time you have spent with your modeling mates sharing ideas, techniques and sipping......tea?
Has paid off in spades!

Wonderful work my friend!

:rah: :2t: :bg: :pimp:


Paladin
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G'day Dave

Thanks for the compliment 

I have been a little slow of late.  My turntable has finally turned up. It has been on backorder for close on 30 months. I shall be able to go to work on the rail yards.

Photo to follow.

Don

Paladin
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The latest additions to the roster are from left to right

K 36   K 28  K 27  K27

These locos are big compared to the Bachmann range, and being brass they have their problems getting them to run on Peco turnouts and track with out shorting.

The issue is solved with the removal of some metal in the frame. Just a little at a time with a file.

They are DCC with sound (I like sound) And that leads to setting them up with De-Coder Pro. This is a great freeby computer program.  It will allow each to have individual sound effects so things are not all the same.


Lucas Gargoloff
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What a nice rooster!!!

danpickard
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Drivers, start your engines...K drags at Dons place!

Healthy looking family you have there Don.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard

rich
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They look great Don and will fill a engine house up fast
rich

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Really nice... and that's easily my biggest understatement of the day.

W C Greene
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Don-that's a nice bunch of K's. I'm glad to see more action along the line. More, more...

Woodie

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BIG little locos--

Very nice! Glad that you got them de-bugged.

Some pix of them pulling a consist through those mountains would be great---


Herb 

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Would love to see some video of them running.

Im jealous! What a fleet

mwiz64
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I wondering where you guys get those nice photo realistic back drops.

Paladin
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Sorry have been awhile in responding


backdropwarehouse.com/

This is one of several suppliers.

Have fun.

Don

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any updates?

Alwin
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Hi Don,

I was looking in some older topics and I came here.

What an impressive landscaping.

It has been asked before, but are there any updates?

Alwin


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Hi Don,

I agree to what everyone is saying, the rock moulds are pure awesome, going to be great when finished.
I like the green steamy.

I am modelling the Tehachapi loop on my HO scale layout which is a garden railway set up.

The only scenery I will be having is the Tehachapi loop and working the tunnel 9 module.
Where I am working on now is the bottom track that leads into tunnel 9,
have the other cutting to do also, will leave that to a later date want the trains running first.

I will up date my post once I finish that section, which is in the OO/HO Scale Forum, garden railway topic, under Tony M.

Tony.


Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Don

Fantastic!!!

Really very nice done rock formatiopns.
Very convincing. Both, the shapes and the coloring.

:2t::apl::apl::apl::apl:

Daniel

Helmut
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Here's another method from Down Under.
It's not so top-heavy as the featured one, and the results are very pleasing in my eyes.


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