I actually have some Pliobond that I got for something else, and I was thinking of sticking one of those Testor's tips on it (image below) and giving that a try, which sounds very close to what you're describing. Everyone is reminding me, I think I did see/hear about this letting-the-cement-dry-then-re-heating method somewhere before and it seems like a much more humane way of handling the gluing part of things.
Those tips are perfect. To answer the other part - the plio-bond must dry before pressing the pieces together. If you go to fast tracks website there is a video you can watch that shows the adhesive in action.
I was poking fun at the fact that very few narrow gauge modelers I know, myself included, ever stick to just 1 scale/gauge. The large layout I've been working on for the past 3 months is On30 and I have a small module which is HOn3. Like many others here I have random projects scattered about ranging from Nn3 to 7/8n2. The bulk of what I own and have built though is either On30 or HOn3.
About a year ago I watched every video they have out, including the on you linked. I saw him using pliobond to fasten the "QuickSticks" in the video, but honestly it didn't hit me that it would make sense to use that same technique with spiking rail, for as obvious as that seems now.
Titus, I have found that the best sp[iking tool for me is a pair of long nosed pliers. I cut a slot long ways in one jaw to hold the spike in line and drive straight in. after it goes about half way remove the pliers and with the jaws closed push the spike home with the flat nose. Works well for me. And I use basswood ties over homesote.
____________________ Nothing can be made foolproof because us fools is so ingenious
I carefully search out the timber counter of any "coffee" **, burger joints etc. that are currently stocking PCB thickness coffee stirrers. I use a tiny drop of CA to fasten the wooden ties to the rail and 1 PCB every 8th tie. For the switches, I use PCB's at a few critical stress points, otherwise as per plain track. I'm now getting near to finishing my first On30 track panel; the PCBs will be fixed down with slow epoxy (to allow positioning time), then the ballast will hopefully keep the whole job in place.
I've tried using the Woodie/Herb re-heated Pliobond method with absolutely no success; the Brit version of this glue doesn't have that property; maybe I'm trying the wrong type of adhesive. Dave Mason's barge glue/MEK sounds interesting but I prefer not to spoil the grain ing & colouration of Real Wood (TM) with dollops of thick glue - hence my tiny droplets of CA.
** the stuff most of the well known outlets sell can in no way be described as coffee