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New to traction, but not to model railroading, and need advice
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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2012 02:02 am
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aethereus
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I was intrigued by your mention, Herb, of how it would be nigh on to impossible to taper a long slender rod in the lathe and I can see the difficulties.

If the site to be modeled is either a town or rural area, could the wood poles be created by drawing and tapering an appropriate diameter steel rod on an anvil. Although, I'm not a smith, I have done a little forge work and found it relatively easy to work small stock and even wind up with a pretty clean surface with just the hammer on a faced and polished anvil. The small irregularities could mimic the wood, or were the poles turned as they were debarked and therefore quite regular?

Duncan

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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2012 02:31 am
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W C Greene
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O scale traction? Again, I ain't a traction modeler but I do posess a Precision Scale O scale catalog and within it are some things that may be of interest: cross arms of various sizes, tapered trolley poles with shoes or wheels, wire hangers for straight or curved lines, Baldwin MCB trucks, ITCo etchings for B or C motor with parts for such, and other parts that I am not familiar with. This is just from my very limited catalog reference material, you all must know of more. Just my dos centavos or cinco pesos...

Woodie



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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2012 04:42 am
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aethereus
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--------Cinco pesos---y Cinco de Mayo

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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2012 09:50 am
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paulmlally
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Thanks...maybe if I used round rod and after I soldered the welding rod and piano wire on it, I weathered it a bit, it would look like the wooden poles they used, but have the strength I need to withstand bumps, wire strain, etc.

By the way, how deep do you plant your poles.?My layout's made from 1/2 ply. Would I need small wooden drill blocks beneath to take the extra depth?

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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2012 02:03 pm
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Herb Kephart
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My poles go through (in most cases)  one layer of Homasote--which adds little rigidity- and one layer of  half inch ply.

I drill the holes about a sixty-fourth undersize, grind a chamfer on the bottom, and "plant" them with a hammer.

Also--the tops of wood poles were either cut on an angle, or cut with a double angle (like a house roof) to shed rain--called, appropriately "roofing" the poles.

I doubt that wood poles were turned after bark removal, but they look smooth enough that they might have been.


Herb 



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 Posted: Thu May 10th, 2012 01:18 am
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Herb Kephart
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Duncan

Frog photos posted in my trolley wire writeup today.

For Toad photos see Woodie--they have fearsome ones in Texas, I hear.


Herb 



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 Posted: Thu May 10th, 2012 01:38 am
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W C Greene
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Rivet...rivet...rivet-counter...

Woodrow



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 Posted: Thu May 10th, 2012 02:51 am
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tebee
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In HO, on our old club layout we had success using bamboo skewers to make wooden poles, they seem much stronger than ordinary wood of the same section.

Think I saved one or two to copy, will see if I can dig them out

Tom



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 Posted: Thu May 10th, 2012 03:14 pm
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paulmlally
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Would love to see photos.

Thanks,

Paul

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