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Newbie scratch building questions
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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2012 03:56 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Radio Shack should have circuit board etchant (for printed circuits) if they haven't gone completely up scale, with cellphones and other Chinese electronic crap.


Herb 



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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2012 09:51 pm
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mwiz64



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Radio Shack... Upscale. I never thought I'd hear those two things mentioned in the same discussion. Ill head over there and pick some up. If not, I'll Google for it. Thanks!

Say, I've been thinking some more about this project and I've been looking at a speeder shed project in the On30 annual with a finished interior. Im contemplating finishing the interior of this building too. What do you guys think it really was? It seems too nice to just be an old tool shed. I'm thinking a tool bench or two and maybe a stove would make sense. Does it look like that type of building to you guys too?



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 Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2012 01:01 pm
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mwiz64



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Well, the biggest portion of my contest flying season is now behind me and there are now no more excuses. I'm going to start the shed building project over the weekend.

Question #1: Do you guys generally paint or stain everything prior to assembly? If so, is using an airbrush a required skill? I have one (single action Badger) but I've only ever used it once. Most of my painting of models has been rattle can stuff.

Question #2: What type of glue do you generally build with? I build my planes with CA (Cyanoacrylate or Super Glue) and/or Epoxy as the job dictates. I'm thinking I'll use thick CA and apply it with a pin to keep from getting too much on the seam.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2012 04:02 pm
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W C Greene
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Answers:
(1) I do both. An airbrush is not hard to use but I only use mine if I am painting a brass loco for dinero. Otherwise I use spray cans. (the brass guys EXPECT an airbrush job, but there is really very little difference)
(2)You are using the right glues (somebody will know far more than I do) and also I use Titebond 2 on wood stuff. Also, Pliobond or Goo (contact glues).

Hope this helps.
Woodie



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 Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2012 04:11 pm
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RyRiverRR



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I agree with Woodie 100% on both answers.  On question #1  I also used stains for most of my wood projects.  Many colors with "Hunterline"  http://www.hunterline.com/  they are great stuff and covers very well on most model wood types like bass, balsa and the manufactures like St. Albert.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2012 04:41 pm
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mwiz64



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Alright, well... I have enough stuff to start the framing portion of the project. I think I'll stain the wood siding and maybe try hand painting the window trim and door. That should be good enough for this first project. I'll be posting some pictures soon.

Thanks!
Mike



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 Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2012 03:03 pm
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mwiz64



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Well, I framed the floor and the roof over the weekend. As I was working one thing became abundantly clear. I need really good light to work with wood this small. I thought I'd just plant my butt in the living room with a TV tray to build on and the Olympics going and build away. That was difficult and a little frustrating. These pieces of wood are tiny compared to the plane building I've done. I need a better light. I'd like one of those NWSL choppers for cutting the sticks and I wouldn't mind something to hold the pieces of wood square until I get enough of the frame done that it holds itself.

Anybody here ever build on glass? Back in the day I learned a technique where you'd lightly spray the glass with 3M77 and then the pieces of wood would just stick and hold in place while the glue set. It works really good when building directly over plans. You just slip the plans under the glass and place the pieces right over the plans.

Anyway, I'm heading to the LHS to pick up a chopper and maybe look around for a clamp on type light... with a magnifying glass, I think. I didn't realize how bad my close vision has become. Maybe I should have chosen a larger scale. Except, I don't have room for 1:20.3. Why isn't there something between O scale and F?

Last edited on Mon Aug 6th, 2012 03:07 pm by mwiz64



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 Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2012 03:19 pm
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W C Greene
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Mike-there IS a scale between 1:48 and 1:whatever...it is 1:35 or 1:32 scale. If you love tiny narrow gauge stuff, regular HO gauge stuff can be "built up" into 1:32n20 or 1:35n2. In fact, the Bachmann On30 locos make great starting points for such a scale, just a larger cab, maybe a larger whistle & bell, and larger crew in the cab and you have it. Most HO stuff can be built up also but the steam loco wheels may be a mite small, but it's YOUR railroad. http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=1222&forum_id=17 Here's the link to my layout here on FR, it is (according to my whims) 35n2 or 32n20.
And while at the shop, look at the 1:35 military kits. There are many things that can be used as is or modified (nazi soldiers, etc) for a railroad. Grandt Line O scale windows and certain doors can be used in the larger scale. This is a real scratchbuilders' scale and loads of fun also.
Woodie



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 Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2012 03:54 pm
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mwiz64



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I'm aware that you model in 1:35 scale, Woodie and believe me that has crossed my mind more than once. I may well give that scale a try... at least on a diorama basis. In fact, that's all I'm doing right now anyway.... building dioramas, that is. I'm not ready to commit to a full blown railroad just yet. As I sit here any type this, I think a 1:35 scale logging railroad built with some shays like yours could be a pretty cool. Hum.....That's an idea that I'm going to kick around some.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2012 04:48 pm
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mwiz64



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OK, I went to the LHS and looked at the military 1:35 scale models. I didn't see any figures there that lent themselves to railroad use but then maybe I'm just not using my imagination enough. They weren't cheap either.. $20 for 2-3 guys. Still, I'm not going to rule that scale out and in fact, I may just commit to building my next diorama in that scale. I struck out on the NWSL Chopper. They are on back order and have been for a couple months... Bummer. I'll try some mail order places. They had a great magnified light but I don't want to pay their price so I'll keep shopping around for that.



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