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Building Gn15 Narrow Gauge Switches
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 Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2012 12:34 pm
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Toeffelholm
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Hi,

I'm now building my first switch for Gn15, so for 16.5 mm track width.

I'm thinking about how to connect the blades at the tips. At my Gn30 switches I soldered a piece of brass under the blade's foot and connected these with a piece of wire that I simply bend at the ends.



Would it be more prototypical to use some kind of clavis at the end of the connecting wire?

And, dear track hand layer, how do you solve this question at your switches?

Juergen



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modelling in 1:22.5 on 32mm and 16.5mm track
Actual project: 7/8" scale on 45 mm track
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 Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2012 01:25 pm
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W C Greene
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Juergen-that is beautiful work, I don't see anything "unprototypical" about it. But yes, there would be clevis(es) at the attachment points-throw bar and ground throw. Just some more detail which could go unnoticed except by you. I gave up worrying about nice proto looking switch harness details, the layout is outside, gets lots of operation, and expansion/contraction can cause problems unless things are made "bullet proof".
I say-go the way you are and if you want, add the details. If some kicker drops by and comments negatively, ask to see HIS work. That shuts them up every time.

Woodie



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 Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2012 06:01 pm
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dodgezilla04
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uhhhhhhm..... seeing that wants to make me tear up my layout and start handlaying and hand building turnouts... thats looks fantastic



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Chris

On30 in the basement
2 1/2" outside
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 Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2012 06:39 pm
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mwiz64
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Yep... Beautiful. That's why I'm determined to learn to lay my own track. There is just no substitute for it... plus it's cheap.

Mike

Last edited on Wed Jun 20th, 2012 06:39 pm by mwiz64



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 Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2012 11:49 am
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Herb Kephart
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Right on everyone!

I agree 100%

Juergen--I solder a small strip of brass--perhaps 3-4 mm wide-- in place of the wire that you use--but I have to say that your way looks a lot better than mine!


Herb 



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 Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2012 09:44 pm
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titus
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Wow, large scale gives the opportunity to do some really nice work!

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 Posted: Sun Jun 24th, 2012 11:02 am
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Toeffelholm
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Thank you very much guys for the nice comments and the encouragement.

So I keep this method for my Gn15 switches. Only the connection to the lever I tried to make a bit different.





Juergen



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modelling in 1:22.5 on 32mm and 16.5mm track
Actual project: 7/8" scale on 45 mm track
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 Posted: Mon Jun 25th, 2012 11:01 am
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mwiz64
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jurgen,

I keep coming back to this thread to look at your handiwork. That really is some good looking track.

Mike



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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2012 11:33 pm
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titus
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I was studying the picture of the 16.5mm turnout above closer. Is that a brass plate under the frog? Do you solder the frog to that plate? Also, it looks like you have spikes going through said plate?

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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2012 04:35 am
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Toeffelholm
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Hi titus,

it's a copper plate, or better said foil. On narrow gauge switches here, such a plate under the frog is rather common.

No, on this switch the frog is not soldered onto the plate. It's done the way I have done it with my Gn30 switches (The underground is a special soldering plate)

Didn't make an actual picture of the Gn15 one.

Yes, there are rail spikes going through the plate to hold the rail. Sure, there better have to be screws to hold the plate on the ties and some clamps with screws to fix the rail on the plate, but I have to look for that in my scale or how to do it. On the other side I have already seen pre-drilled plates under the rail with a rail spike going through it.

But I used the fastest way for this first switch as I wanted to know if there are faults in the laser cut trackbed i have designed and if I can use the same techniques of building it, as I have used on the switches with 32mm gauge.

Juergen

Last edited on Sat Jul 7th, 2012 08:36 am by Toeffelholm



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modelling in 1:22.5 on 32mm and 16.5mm track
Actual project: 7/8" scale on 45 mm track
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