The driveline will come from NWSL and will most likely be the stanton drive. It will have to be the Stanton because of the flatcar body and no where to hide a can. and I don't want to hobble together a complete driveline with shafts coming out from under the cab.
For the truck frames I will be using Precision Scale's #31991. Their axle centers are just over 7 feet. Unless NWSL does not have the drive that will fit them. And that is the only big thing I need for this build. http://www.precisionscaleco.com/
I have finally worked through the picture posting here and my pc.
The first picture is my freight motor floor from the bottom. I traded email with Eric from Miniatures from Eric last night and he has discontinued ALL TRACTION, so if you want something of his ya better get it fast!! http://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/
I will need to pull out the razor saw because this thing scales out at 41 feet long! I think I will cut out the sections from my middle finger to my ring finger which is 10 scale feet. I am unsure as to if I will use the truck mounting pads or not, the top of my truck frames stick out just a little on the end of where the end portion cuts in, I will likely use some sort of small snowplow on a pilot, and because the cab only has side entry I would need a place for a step so the crew can get up on each porch, where the sand tubs are going to be.
This picture shows the side door "barely" to the left of the window. This shot was taken during the sprue removal and sanding which occured during commercial breaks from a movie I was watching last night.
This is the type of pilot I think I would like on the freight motor.
It looks as if it would be easy to make in either styreen or even brass.
Also note the coupler, I would like to make a working self centering radial coupler bar for use with magnetic couplers, I'm unsure if I will use Kadee's or these from Mchenry. I know these are for tank cars however I have seen several traction cars and locomotives that had the oversize knuckle on the coupler.
This picture shows the C channel glued on after I shortened the floor supports. I didn't make any attempt to sand them at an angle at all, I simply cut them with the Dremel cut off wheel fluse with the bottom of the floor then cut them at a 90* angle.
Now that I'm sober I think I will take all the inner ribs out and leave just the truck bolsters.
"NOTE"....... model building under the influence can get expensive!!!
Also, remember I am not trying to build an exact copy of the prototype,it is just based on the over all shape.
Looks good Rob. I say leave the ribs on unless they interfer with something else. No sense in doing the extra work if you don't have to. Remember one slip with that Dremel tool and it could be good-by floor.
TE work motor #X-2, shown at the Waco, TX yards. This photo from Texas Electric Railways Assn, in the Texas Electric Album by Rod Varney and the TX ERA.
What you see is all there is. It appears that an old Birney truck was used under this "thing" and the pole seems to be taken off and laid up against the back side. This would make a real critter but I don't know if an HO model could be made to run reliably, maybe O scale or better yet, large scale.
***The structure seen in the left hand background is one of the Waco suspension bridge towers, the bridge was built by the same guy who built the Brooklyn bridge. It is still there, across the Brazos River, I used to "haul a$$" across it in my MG when I was a teen but now it is a protected foot bridge under the "Historic landmark"
banner. So much for olden times***
____________________ It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.