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In-ko-pah Railroad - 1/24th Scale Railcar
 Moderated by: pipopak Page:    1  2  3  4  5  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2012 04:31 am
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Ray Dunakin
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Ok, here are some photos and details, starting with the Hubley/Gabriel kit. It's a 1912 Ford Model T depot hack; most of the parts are zinc alloy castings but there are also some plastic parts. I bought it on ebay shortly after I started my layout, with the idea of someday converting it into a railcar. Originally I thought I would use the body more or less "as is", but since then I've decided I want something more unique. Also, the metal parts are quite heavy, so scratch-building most of the vehicle will reduce the weight.



The chassis unit out of the box, includes the running boards and fenders:




I cut off the running boards and the rear fenders. I also enlarged the motor opening and cut out another opening, to reduce weight:




To save myself some trouble trying to construct a drivetrain entirely from scratch, I'm using the rear wheel unit from a large scale Bachmann RGS railcar. This includes the differential and universal joint. The wheels are spoked, which is another plus. For the front wheels, I'm using a pair of replacement wheels from a Bachmann "gandy dancer" handcar. (I've been told that these are the same wheels used on the Bachmann 4-6-0's pilot truck.)

I made axle bearings for the front wheels out of 6mm brass tube and some .020" thick brass strip. The tube is a pretty close fit, so I had to sand the axles down a little to ensure a it would roll freely. One mistake I made was cutting the tube to the width of the mounting plate -- now I have to find a couple washers to keep the wheels from rubbing against the sides of the frame. If I'd made the tubes just a little longer I could have avoided that.



BTW, I drilled the holes in the bearing's mounting plate by hand, using a pinvise. I dipped the tip of the drillbit in some light machine oil periodically to reduce wear on the drillbit.


Here's a shot of the front axle bearings mounted on the styrene frame:




The metal chassis unit presented a bit of a problem. I needed a wider chassis, to fit the rear wheel unit. I also wanted to lengthen the chassis. I could easily scratch-build one and forget about using the kit parts, but what about the front fenders? Those seemed too daunting to attempt at this time, so I wanted to use the fenders from the kit. To do that, I built a styrene frame that the metal chassis drops into. Here's a shot of the front wheels attached to the styrene frame:



I decided against trying to build any sort of suspension on the front end. The rear wheel unit includes simulated leaf springs. I'm not really fond of them because they're nearly flat, rather than arched, but they'll do. Cutting them off and building something different would have created another set of problems. Here's how I mounted the rear wheel unit on the styrene frame:






Here's the more-or-less complete frame with the wheels mounted and the metal chassis installed:




The radiator from the kit consists of three parts: a "brass" frame, a "brass" insert representing the core of the radiator, and a metal insert that goes into the rear of the radiator. The fake brass insert has the Ford logo embossed on it. This would be fitting for a new Model T straight out of the factory, but I'm building something that is much older and has been heavily rebuilt. A shiny brass logo on the radiator core would be out of place. So I sanded the core texture and logo off of the insert, and cut a piece of O-scale, photo-etched brass roofwalk material to fit into the radiator frame. The insert was then pushed in, followed by the metal rear insert, and it was all glued together. Here's how it came out:



And with a little black primer:




Here's how the chassis looks with the radiator and engine hood temporarily in place:




That's all I have for now. Next I'll work on getting the motor mounted, and decide how to handle the joint between the hood, which will be attached permanently, and the body, which will be removable. Then I can work on designing the body.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2012 01:10 pm
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W C Greene
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GROOVY! MORE MORE MORE!!!

Woodrow



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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2012 01:25 pm
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Herb Kephart
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LOOKING GOOD!


Herb 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2012 01:59 pm
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Bernd
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Oh O, I'm in trouble. Having finaly decided to stay with just one scale Ray has to post this.

Here's why I'm in trouble.




Not wanting to hi-jack your thread Ray. I don't remember when I got this or how old it is, but I had the same idea but never got around to it because I didn't know the scale. I had it figured for something close to 1/24.

I'm going to have follow this thread close and perhaps built a "Shelf Queen" with a little scenary.

Bernd



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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2012 03:53 pm
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teetrix
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Great work so far :thumb::thumb::thumb: !

Maybe I would allow the front axle to swing (without suspension, like to see on many tractors) = better running on track and better current pickup, if you don't use batteries.

Already curious about the next photos...

Michael

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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2012 03:56 pm
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W C Greene
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Those old HUBLEY kits were "box scale" or some such...they seem to work for 1:24 to 1:20.3 since I have seen them on layouts in those scales. In any scale, they look great and are timeless.

Woodie
***BTW-there is a nice 1:32 Depot Hack around, my thanks to old friend Byron for finding me one! ***



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 Posted: Wed Oct 17th, 2012 05:27 am
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pipopak
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Those Ford Ts are about 1/22 scale. There is enough flash in those parts to make almost another kit!. Jose (who is slowly building the whole set.. VERY slowly!).



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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2012 06:01 am
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Ray Dunakin
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Time for an update!

I made the motor mount from styrene scraps, and shaped a brass strip to hold the motor in place. I used some tiny screws (with mismatched heads) from my box of "junk". Here are top and bottom views of the motor installed in the vehicle:






Next I added the deck, made from .040" thick styrene sheet, with some fake cross members attached on the underside:






I decided to make this into a small railbus. The design combines some features from a couple different real-life vehicles. The open cab was inspired by a 1920 Model TT bus. The body is wide and covers the rear wheels, with sheet metal sides, slightly curved inward along the bottom. This was inspired by a Model T railbus used on the Tennessee, Kentucky & Northern.

I started building the rear half of the body out of styrene strips and sheet:




I also added a sort of "flange" to the hood, and cut a piece for the firewall. The firewall fits over the flange on the rear of the hood. The hood will be permanently attached to the chassis, and the rest of the body will be removable.




Here's a shot of the components temporarily in place on the chassis:




Next I added the side panels. I curved each panel by placing it on the extruded aluminum track of a sliding door, and pressed against it with a dowel. After those were attached, I started building up the front seat, floorboards, dashboard, windshield frame, and side window frames:



Here's how it looks so far. I put in the upper side panel on the driver's side, but haven't done the other side yet. At this point I'm trying to decide if I like the way it looks with the combined features (wide body/open cab). What do you think?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2012 12:19 pm
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Bernd
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Lookin' very good Ray. I like the way that's turning out. :2t::thumb::2t:

I'd think any way you make it it would look good. It's just something about railcars that you can't goof up.

Bernd



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A REALIST sees a freight train
The LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER sees three idiots standing on the tracks
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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2012 03:22 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Nice work Ray.

Styrene construction usually (almost wrote "always" but I can think of some horrible exceptions) looks very "crisp".

Hard to remove paint from, if you mess up a paint job though.

BTDT

And it's so quick, compared to brass.

This is going to be a great addition to your railroad.

Herb 



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