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Milocomarty
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Couple of new trees I made today....







wireframe, 6 en 2mm fibers with the nochstick, compressed air en WS fine turf...

danpickard
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Hi Martin,
Thanks for bringing these threads across to Freerails. The pines with "needles" instead of ground foam make for big improvements on the more common approach to pine trees. When time permits, please post some of your other experiments as well.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard

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HIYA...

 

  MARKET THEM!!!!

 

 Smokebox

Milocomarty
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I´ll do Dan, there´s a german guy doin great needle trees in N and I like to do them in bigger scales..

Milocomarty
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smokebox wrote:
 

HIYA...

 

  MARKET THEM!!!!

 

 Smokebox


Please not to, gonna do a how to soon. Pretty easy to build them yourself ;)

W C Greene
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Not to tell anyone what to do but the sure thing you can do to virtually ruin your hobby is to MARKET THEM! Ask me and a hundred others just how we know this. With that said, thank goodness that some folks do make stuff for sale, otherwise cool stuff wouldn't be available. It takes a certain mindset to make and sell model railroad products. I salute those who pay themselves $1.25/hour just so us modelers can pay $5.00 for something that takes 4 hours to make.
Excellent trees, Martin. They look as real as they can be.

Woodie

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I'm looking forward to learning how to make my own. I'm on a mission to make as much as possible myself in this hobby. My competitive glider flying has come to the point where I can't build a competitive airframe myself without $$$ worth expensive equipment and materials. So I buy mt planes. I don't want to buy my train layouts too.

Mike

Last edited on Fri Nov 2nd, 2012 09:26 pm by mwiz64

Milocomarty
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Woodie, been asked several times to build stuff for MRR's. Made a job out of designing furniture wich still is a hobby and great fun. Do play guitar in a band also..these 2 I see as a job (with great fun) so I keep the MRR to myself. Do build some trees once and a while for fellow MRR'ers.

Mike I do the same things, like to build great looking stuff for a nickel..so I show you my discoveries on this path..

Milocomarty
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Another test today using 10, 6 and 2mm fibers with the grassmaster and compressed air. After that a coat from below with WS green grass fine turf....







Slightly bigger tree this time, more than a foot, the little ones from yesterday below...
Show you a tutorial when I mastered the technique a bit more, just have to finetune a bit..

Bernd
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Wow, even up close they look real. Can't wait for the "how to" post.

bernd

Craig H
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I to would like to see a How To :bg: on how you make your trees.

Milocomarty
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Start with a tappered dowel with a peice of 1.5mm floristwire stuck in the top...



after that twistin and turning 0.6mm floristwire around the top





Drill holes in the wooden trunk sticking in some .6mm floristwire and secure them with CA. Cut the loops open and arrange them.Quick coat of primer with a rattlecan..



Give the treetop a coat with a mixture of 50% white glue / 25% wallsealant / 25% RAL 8022 colored latex wallpaint and a coat with MDF sawdust with a fine sieve. Reoeat this step a few times untill the transition between the wireframe and the dowel is almost unseeable



Just play around a bit untill it looks like the tree you want it to look like..
Tried a loblolly pine here..



Now they are ready for fibers. Explain these steps later..

Craig H
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Looking good :2t:

Herb Kephart
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W C Greene wrote: Not to tell anyone what to do but the sure thing you can do to virtually ruin your hobby is to MARKET THEM!
For sure! I can recite chapter and verse from that book!

Herb 

W C Greene
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Man-I wish that I could make trees that look like these and have them be able to withstand being outside! Any ideas? There actually are trees in Mogollon.

Woodie

Milocomarty
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Maybe I´ll give it a try and plant one in my garden see if it withstand the wet weather here in Holland :) Dunno about the weather conditions on the Mogellon, seen it snowed..but looking at the trees on the Mogellon you use ordinairy scenic materials like WS, natural branches and so on. Maybe you should give it a try and try a few. Always seal them with an spraycan matte laquer so it´s possible they could withstand it being outside..

W C Greene
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Thanks Martin for the lacquer idea. Probably if I shot the trees with several heavy coats it would keep them OK. I will use the wire armature route, I imagine making trees and then soldering them all together for outdoor strength. The fibers you use for needles-who makes them? You probably mentioned it but I'm an old dude and may have forgotten. I don't need a forest of trees, but I would like some that look like yours.
Woodie

Milocomarty
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I use 2, 6 and 10mm static grass fibers for the tiny branches after that just woodland fine turf T45 green grass and T46 weeds...

Ray Dunakin
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Great looking trees, Martin!

on2rails
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Absolutely fantastic.

Milocomarty
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Thanks Ray and Joey, think I'll update the SBS later this week, been working on a couple..

Milocomarty
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Tutorial of small bushes with a hot glue gun..weapons of choice..



use a piece of HPL laminate to work on and spray it lightly with a vaseline spray otherwise it's the same as makin tufts, cut pieces of the brushes and stick'm into the glue,,



I don't own a airbrush (need to order one soon) and the lack of flat colors in rattle cans (only mat black) I decided to paint with a brush only use sepia extra acrylics...



next step is to add 5/6mm static grass fibers using spray glue and a tea sieve...



repeat this step but now using 2mm fibers...hard to see but this is the closest my lens can get (need to buy a macro for this)



next step is adding WS fine turf color weeds..but I play around a bit with several colors...



last step is adding Noch Ho leaves, ordered some Polak material also to try and play with..use 2 different colors to give them more depth...



when I'm finished I seal it with a cheap hairspray..
Think it's ending up here on my layout



easy like that takes about 5 till 10 minutes each, maybe it's easier to order prefab Polak's or Mini-natur but I think this is more fun...[:D]

Milocomarty
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Let's do a real SBS on the bush making...

Base were I work on is a thin sheet of aluminium..



instead of taping I used non permanent sprayglue this time to hold the kraftpaper on the aluminium sheet (paper's the kind spraypainters use for masking) and painted it black/brown with a cheap wall latex..



The sisal rope in varoius stages and the tool I use for combing it a bit straight ( it's for the dog and from the petshop)



Changed the next step a bit, didn't like the clumbs of hot glue so I figured adding the bush frames befor groundcover would hide them a bit more..



also did a second sheet with 0.4mm florist wire ..



Like the hot glue for sopeeding up the proces. Next step is adding fast drying white glue to the sheet and a variety of sawdust from my workshop...with a coarse and fine sieve..





closer look..



Did put both sheets away to dry. Will post more steps later..

Time for the next steps in bush making..
Left it yesterday with the sawdust added and white glue drying, time to add another coat of blackish brown. Mixture of latex wallpaint, white glue and a wall sealant (somekinda stuff you use to seal walls before painting, to get the suction out of it, dunno how it's called in english)





let it dry for a couple of hours and then these come in..



give both the sisalrope and the floristwire a quick coat with these flat spraypaints..





after this I put both plate on the side to have a real good dry. Next steps tomorrow also waiting on some ailenee's tacky glue. Wanna try that for adding fibers to the branches..

Last coat 's dry so time to add some grasses. First a coat with 2mm fibers, advantage of working on this tiny sheets is that after you grassed it up you can turn it upside down and knock of the loose fibers. After this its right on with the second layer of 4,5mm fibers. Taking a syringe and dropping in thin glue..repeat the knock off...





added a 5 eurocent coin for sizes in the close-up





Also tried the tacky glue. Just a stick of floristwire and some fibers added



that's it for now, next steps tomorrow...

Been a bit to rough on the fibers, added 12mm's instead of 6 [:-banghead]Well I tried to make some out of it. Added some 2mm fibers to and after that Polak fine leaves...



Lets have a closer look..



One lesson learned for myself, don't drink to much beers before ya work on greens [:D]

Last ones in the SBS on bush building. The florist wire bushes. Just cut them a bit random so not every branch in a bush is the same height. After that adding wooly fibers with aleene's tacky glue..



Next step is adding 6mm fibers with a tea sieve, bought a cheap airbrush and use Polak Sprayfix..WS scenic cement will do the trick to



repeat this but this time using 2mm fibers..



Noticed you have better control with the airbrush so I used it for painting the bushes a bit blackish to..



Airbrush and sprayfix, Polaks fine leaves with a tea sieve and theres the final result..



been looking for the kinda airy look..think it has it..



Just have to trim them here and there...
That's it folks.................easy

Bernd
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Wow Martin, that's a great how to. Those bushes look so real. Thanks for posting that tutorial.

Bernd

Last edited on Fri Nov 16th, 2012 08:51 am by Bernd

Herb Kephart
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Martin, thank you for showing us how to make foliage!

A question--Have you tried using hair- either animal or human-as the armature of a bush? I've been saving clumps of my hair (before it decides to turn white) from home haircuts. Also have thought about--but not tried--dog hair.
Just examined Gromit's coat closely and don't think that his hair is enough coarser than mine--and his falls out before it gets to the length that mine does before it's cut--so that might be a not-so-good idea.

As you further develop your technique, keep us in mind with updates please.

Herb 

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Herb,

That's an interesting question re: dog hair. You just had me sitting here considering if my 80 lb yellow lab's hair could be used for field grass. Sort of shocked I haven't considered that before...

Milocomarty
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You're welcome guys !! Real hair for foliage, didn't try that. Got my sister saving her hairextensions for foliage / fibers she says it's real hair. Try that soon...

W C Greene
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Martin & friends. A while back, I posted this little bit about weeds & thought it might be helpful for those so inclined.

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=2835&forum_id=9

Of course, there ain't any improving Martin's techniques...his trees & bushes look like...well...trees & bushes!

Woodie

Milocomarty
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Great way to give the grasses a more fluffy look Woodie.

Before questions are coming about the used fibers. Fibers used in the first step have the name Wooly. I do purchase them through a flower shop ( they are used over here for decoration). Hard to get over the pond. There are also a couple of garden pond filter fibers I use, they all have this curly look. Maybe WS polyfibers do the trick and I believe Micromark or Scenic Express also cary some rough fibers. Do use cheap halloween wigs to for fibers..

Milocomarty
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Quick update on pinetree building. After the frames are ready it's time for some Noch 12mm fibers. Sprayglue from below, fibers with the grassmaster





when fibers are added I give them a quick blow with compressed air. Sprayglue added from below and a coat of 6mm fibers..





repeat the first steps and add a final layer of 2mm fibers..





and again blow wiith compressed air from the top. Done with the fibers time for a quick spray with mud brown and olive drab camo paint from a can..





Now it's time for the WS green grass fine turf, T46 if I'm right. Sprayglue added from below and several layers of fine turf added. Not to much at once just build up..





Hope you like this SBS..

Milocomarty
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Funny, rotated the pictures in photobucket but they show not rotated...L::doh:

Herb Kephart
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Super!

Herb 

W C Greene
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Man-I like em' without the green turf also. Have that "dead" look which adds realism to the forest. Just an excellent how-to and we are dadgum glad that you shared this with us here. More please!!!

Woodie

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Oddly I like them alot just mud brown and olive... maybe for the top of the mountain where the air is thinner.

Milocomarty
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Boy oh boy, just do what you want to and use the techs the way you want them. I do a layout ocean fronted and my ref pics say lotta green.................

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Martin,

My comment was in no way meant to be negative. Your work is fantastic and inspirational.

Milocomarty
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Shawn, my comment wasn't to be that either, just like to share what I know and can. Hope you all use it the way you want it. Please remind that I ain't a native english speaker, sometimes my comments are a bit different because of that

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Martin,

these trees are a fantastic, absolutly.

I am testing my first trees yesterday, I need more long fibers from Noch.
I hope they arrive this week for more testds at the next weekend.

These trees I need for my Romania logging moduls in 0n30/0e.

Thank you for showing us your technic

cheers
Kalle

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Wooow!!! This thread is great!! Very helpful to me. Thanks for share, now I´d like to try your technique.

Milocomarty
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Thanks guys ! Looking forward to see what you come up with. Feel free to share it here..

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Hello,

now I have some time to test these technique.

Here some pictures.
From the left to the right you see my 1-3 test and the 4 tree is the one I used the last time, I bought them.


I think the third tree is my best one,
here some nearer pictures.






Tomorrow I start the next test.
I have to use not too much fibre 6mm.

I forgot to say these trees are for scale On30/0e.

Cheers Kalle

Last edited on Thu Dec 27th, 2012 02:00 pm by albula_de

Milocomarty
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Third one looks good to me too, just as you mentioned use less fibers for the twigs. You're on the right track here Kalle !

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Looking great Kalle. What I really like this method, and the result, is the more natural looking slightly uneven finish to the shape, as opposed to the clean tapered finish that results from most "bottlebrush" versions of pines. Thanks for sharing youe efforts.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard

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Nice work, y'all.
This is looking like a topic to watch :)

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Kale! those trees looks great to me! I recently turned to H0 again, but this time is H0m, I was in switzerland two months ago and was impressed with the scenery there... so, picked up a Bemo loco as a souvenir, but man... this model is awesome, so am seriously thinking in turn definetively to H0m and keep the 0n3 only for fun.

Last edited on Fri Dec 28th, 2012 01:31 am by Lucas Gargoloff

Herb Kephart
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Everyone, and I do mean EVERYONE, should go back and read post number 6 a couple times.

Truer words were never written-------


Herb 

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Herb
     You are right on the mark. Kalle's work is superb. One of the pics looks great to me which is of the weeds in mid process. The look is like wet mud/swampy looking. Just needs cattails and quicksand. A flexible base could be added so you could easily cut it apart. Anyway :moose::moose::moose::moose::moose: to Kalle for sharing his excellent work.
                                                                             Clif K

Milocomarty
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Think some should read post 1 too ;)

wclm
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Martin
   You are correct, if anyone wants to improve the scenery process, they reread or read all of the posts on the topic.
                                                               Clif K

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Hello,

some more test trees.

First one 20cm high

This pic show the tree with all fibre and painted in barke color with airbrush.


Now fixed the turf with sprayclou.


and a nearer photo


Here pictures of a greater one, 30cm

here in barke paint


and with turf


nearer shot


Now I am more familar with this production of the trees.

cheers
Kalle

Milocomarty
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Great start Kalle. Just one thingie, take a small stiff brush and some turpentine and try to remove the not wanted fibers from the trunk and the branch part near to the trunk before adding paint. Gives the more airy view close to the trunk.
Remember there's only foliage where light/sun shines...

albula_de
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Milocomarty wrote:
Great start Kalle. Just one thingie, take a small stiff brush and some turpentine and try to remove the not wanted fibers from the trunk and the branch part near to the trunk before adding paint. Gives the more airy view close to the trunk.
Remember there's only foliage where light/sun shines...


Hello Martin,

the fiber at the trunk/branch is a problem for me.
At the next test serie I`ll use a special spray gune for the cloue
and test also your tip with the stiff brush.
Thank you for the help.

cheers
Kalle

Milocomarty
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If you use plain sprayglue Kalle just try to spry the outside of the branches. I know its hard but practise shows at the end. Sprat glue can be removed with turpentine..

RyRiverRR
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Those trees are awesome Kalle!!  I really need to give that technique a try.  I love the look of the sagging branches.  That is what I am looking for.

Ryan

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Hello,

thank you for your kind words.

Here is a update of my next tests.

Now I made me a wrapper template, so it´s easier to make the wirring.
For creating the template I used my CNC-milling machine.


Here you see the copper wire in the wrapper template



Then I soldered a brass trunk between the copper wire.


After cutting off


then turned the copper wire in the right position


now I used a new sprayhead for my sprayglue.
so most of the glue is at the right place.
The pic shows the wire trees with the fiber and
with the color .


At the last step to fix the turf at the fiber now I used not the sprayglue
but "Acrylic Matte Varnish" with my airbrush, so I can spray much finer
and better on a point of the tree.






Now the trees look I like it.
Only the tree trunk this is my next work ....

cheers
Kalle

Milocomarty
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Looking good Kalle, just a few smaller ones on the top...trunk maybe before adding fibers and turf a coat of glue'n sawdust ?

RyRiverRR
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Ok Kalle,

You have inspired me to make my own JIG.  Wow how nice it is to see a jig like yours, I think that making trees like this you have so much control to have it your way.

Thank you so much for opening my eyes and mind up to make trees in a differant way.

Ryan

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Today I played a bit with the grassmaster in order to make some heath for a heathland on a dutch group layout. Grasfibers in several lenghts and several colors of turf used..
First attempt....





second attempt...





and more purples added...





Did like the idea of ussing them ass seperate tufts...





pretty satisfied but I ordered some purple decorationsand and hopefully this will be a bit smaller..

Milocomarty
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Next try on heather..now with purple decoration sand...





like it a lot more when it comes to texture (the sand is finer) and I do think that with a light titanium buff drybrush it looks right...

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Now a SBS on the heather. Do start with a sheet of aluminium and a sheet of clear plasticfoil (overhead sheets or something like that)...



and tape the sheet of foil to the aluminium....



next step, add drops of the earlier mentioned treemix. 25% latex wallpaint in a sandcolor. 25% wallsealant and 50% woodglue....



now we'll have fun with the grassmaster, just add various lenghts of fibers out of my junk fiberbox.....



have several sheets so I put them aside after this step and let them dry for a day. After this day I pic up a brush and brush off all the loose fibers left on the sheet and return them to the junkbox. Now comes in the next mix, white glue and wall sealant thin enought to pick it up with a pipette, thick enough not running al over the sheet. Drop them random into the first tufts...



then add fibers again with the grassmaster...



let dry for a day...With these steps done we're ready for the final. First add a coat of mudbrown camopaint out of a rattle can..



it's quickdrying, so when dry a light coat of sprayglue and add some T45, T46 and T49 turf from WS, blend them the way you like...



finish with a clearcoat out of a rattlecan ( as cheap as possible) and let dry for some time..Now comes in the extra heavy gel matte medium I use as glue. The cheapest one from a regular brand (not this thick woodglue they sell as matte medium).



It's a butterlike substance and can easily be brushed on on the tops of the tufts...



whene done I sprinkle on the purple decoration sand...



advantage of working on this sheets is that you can turn them upside down and tip of the surplus.
Still not that fond of the color, but after the following step (not shown today) of painting and drybrushing I'm pretty happy with the result.
Besides JTT there's no company I know who sells fine flowering turf, it's been ordered but don't have it yet. Think it works even better, sand is a bit heavy and tends to fall through the glue. This is it for this one, hope you liked it...

mwiz64
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Martin,

This is an incredibly informative thread. Thanks so much for taking your time and effort to show us how you do those amazing things

Milocomarty
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Thanks Mike, do enjoy to make and share them. This dropping technique 's also very usefull to make more irregular tufts. Been working on them with some 12mm Noch fibers...







lie to create some smaller H0 bushes with them.

jtrain
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When i read through these pages, I had one thing in mind...

It's time to play... REAL OR MODEL!!!!:rah::glad::moose::s:;)

I don't think I've ever seen trees and bushes look that real. Some do come close, but not quite this good. Certainly won't find these on the commercial market by big companies. And about marketing, I agree with what others have said, don't try to make a business out of these trees. However, no one said anything about bringing a couple boxes to a show? If you do go to train shows regularly, maybe you could look into that. Bring a layout and sell these to pay for gas, or lunch. Anyways, just a suggestion, not saying you have to; your trees, your business;)
Really, they are very good trees.

--James:java:

Last edited on Fri Feb 1st, 2013 12:08 pm by jtrain

Milocomarty
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Muchos gracias James. About marketing, well could think about it but it's a looooooooooooooooong wet drive for me to US shows ;):)

On with the 12mm's shown above, added some shorter fibers with the matte medium technique shown in the heather. After that a quick caot of mud brown and again the same matte medium adding. Instead of the purple sand I added fine leaves from Polak...



with a coin for size...



and a close look....



looks like great smaller bushes vor H0 to me.;):)

W C Greene
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Great stuff...as always. Keep this going, you are showing the best foliage I have seen.

Woodie

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Muchos gracias James. About marketing, well could think about it but it's a looooooooooooooooong wet drive for me to US shows

Okay, so maybe it doesn't quite pay for gas :moose:

Last edited on Fri Feb 1st, 2013 07:15 pm by jtrain

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Thanks for shareing your talent mate, a very informative thread with some excelent photography.As noted by other posters the finished models are impossible to tell from the real thing. Fantastic realism, thanks for shareing your time and artistry Martin.

:cool:

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Been a long time since I posted here, purchased a new grasmaster. This pro stick from the company Maagflock gives me 70kV of static power, so much the fibers are everywhere doin the tuft stuff. As a woodworker it's easy to build a nice box for tuft stuff...



Couple of alumium rails on the bottom for earth...



Same sheets of aluminium covered with some sheets of plastic..



drops of gleu...added with a white glue bottle with a fine tip...



Closer look at the mean machine, huge 7" cup, also have a 4,5 an 2,5" cup...



sheets in the box....



big mess with pure power...



after knocking off the loose fibers even a bigger mess..



short vacuum with a dyson, ideal for grass just tip over the container and ready for use again...



and 2 sheets of tufts...



closer look



over 300 tufts in 11 minutes, pictures inclusive...

SJSlots
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Wow, that is super cool!

Milocomarty
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Latest grass stuff

Dave D
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Martin,

That looks terrific!:2t:

Static grass is still relatively new to us here in the US.

I have seen with envy, what can be done with it by modelers in Europe.

Over here, most just lay down a single layer that ends up looking like a golfing green.

I think Kalle was the first on the forum to show us what can be done with it by posting his methods of using the product.

Now you with these wonderful trees and bushes and tuffts.:s:

Thank you very much for showing us the way with these posts.

Please share as much as you can... I just have to try a few of those trees!! :bg:

Milocomarty
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I'll share as much as I can Dave, working on a SBS of the grasses right now. Just need the german layout for that and with a lotta M2 and only 3 days a week it will take a little time..

W C Greene
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Yes, it is some outstanding scenery. If only I could figure out how to make such realistic looking ground cover which would stand up to being outdoors, I woud be a happy camper. Show us some more, please.

Woodie

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W C Greene wrote:
If only I could figure out how to make such realistic looking ground cover which would stand up to being outdoors,

Woodie


They make that Woodrow, I think they call it "grass seed".:)

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SJSlots wrote:
Wow, that is super cool!

Ditto

Rowan

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Thanks guys..

Milocomarty
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Working a bit on grasses these days, hard part is to find a decent underground to build the mats on. Must be somekinda fabric that can be ripped and torn. Do have 3 kinds around here now and played around a bit..







Only green 2mm, 4.5mm fibers and some WS fine turf earth. Working on a SBS but it´s probably gonna be published, so wait a bit before I place it here..

Milocomarty
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Right, three kinda carrier material and now some people to test it if it's easy to fold, glue, rip and torn..











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Reminds me---

Gotta go--gotta mow!


Herb

mwiz64
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Isn't it amazing how much time, money and effort we spend making our lawns grow, grow, grow just so me can mow, mow, mow?

Milocomarty
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Don't have to mow these, they stay the way they are ;):)

Craig W
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Martin, your work is astoundingly good. I'm sure I speak for all of us in saying you are a true artist. I don't suppose you have some pictures of your layout?

Craig.

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Topic about my layout http://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4574&forum_id=17&page=1

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Grassmat production...



Milocomarty
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More fun with the grassmaster, wild grasses with weeds 'n flowers







Late summer with dry grasses..



Milocomarty
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Couple more with a H0 little one...





and with 12mm very large grasses..more for 0 or 1







Last edited on Tue Jul 30th, 2013 01:40 pm by Milocomarty

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Hi Martin,

Beautiful grass and weeds. I have a few questions that I hope you would answer.

Do you always make the grass on loose panels or do you also apply grass directly on your layout? If you use both is there a real difference between them?
And what do you use as surface material for the loose panels?

Thanks, Alwin

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Alwin, most of the time I do make my grass right on spot or lsyout, these lose panels or matts are more a "whaat can I do with this 70kV device I own, or maybe can I go commercial with them. Use various kinda filter stuff out of the koi world, spraypaint stuff or just in plain dutch "borduurvlies" as a surface material. Still looking for the right one..

pipopak
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The phantom is coming for YOU!!!. WHUAA HAAA HAAA!!!

Milocomarty
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Couple of new grasses...





specials...









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Even under the scrutiny of a zoomed in camera that stuff still looks convincing. Martin, you are a ground covering God!

Milocomarty
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Not a God Mike, just look at whaat the Man created...

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It was just a figure of speech, Martin. I' was trying to find a superlative that fit. I'm just amazed at the ground covering you guys are doing over on that side of the Altantic.... It seems you've perfected it where over here the better looking railroads have a desert motif.

Milocomarty
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I know Mike but it's just a couple of guys who do this, most RR over here look like...dunno L:

Friend of mine's building a display module for a museum, he's a bit short on time so I decided to help him out and made some grassmats for him..



















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Worked a bit on some beech hedges for a friend of mine, h0 scale..





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Couple of new ones , customer job...





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Foolin around with photoshop..

Milocomarty
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Rough meadow....







Tree



branches...





Milocomarty
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Couple of bushes 1:32, LP is Ho scale



Milocomarty
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Couple of questions asked lately about te wire frame bushes. Maybe this shots explain a bit..

Start with a frame of twisted 0.4mm floristwire..



give it a quick coat of primer..



twisted parts covered with a mix of latex wallpaint (color) and white glue (the non water resistant stuff) after that a quick shower of with MDF dust with a sieve



coat of the same colored latex wallpaint..



drybrushed with a titanium buff dark..



Next week I continue with the smaller branches and leaves using grassfibers and leave material..

Michael R
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Martin,

That was exactly what I was looking for.

Thank you for the posts on your trees and bushes, your work is inspiring and as a brand new modeler I'm looking forward to putting your techniques to work for my layouts.

Not sure if the admins made these posts a sticky so they are always at the top but I vote to make them a top shelf read under the scenery tab.



Thanks again Martin and I look forward to all future posts and projects

Last edited on Wed Apr 2nd, 2014 01:30 am by Michael R

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Thanks Michael !

Milocomarty
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next parts comin up, working on it right now..

Milocomarty
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Now back to the SBS...painted and drybrushed wireframe trunk..



now I use aleenes tacky glue (fast one) and a brush. Adding glue to the branches. Do this instead of sprayglue because it gives me more control. Adding 12mm fibers with the grassmaster...





Do work on a batch of 30 every time so when done with the last one I can go on with the first. In this step I use sprayglue and try to spray it only on the otside of the branches. On a very close range I give a couple of puffs to the branches, adding 6mm fibers with the grassmaster after that..





Do repeat this step but add 2mm fibers instead...





Already went a bit to dense on this one, remember less is more in tree building..time for a coat of paint using a flat camo paint in natogreen...





This camo paint is fast drying, again finished with the last start with the first...puffs of sprayglue and Noch leaves added with a sieve..





finish it with a coat of clear flat / semiflat paint out of a spraycan..

Another example, bit les dense..







Well that's the whole trre /bush building secret. Always can use sieved turf or fine turf in the smaller scales, whatever you like..or turf with some sieved leaves over it in a second layer. Remember less is more in all steps, better to add a second layer than go to dense in the first !

Milocomarty
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Wow a sticky, now you made me blush ;)

Herb Kephart
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Martin-

Yes, it's a sticky.

A sticky, as I see it, keeps to the forefront something significant, and/or important.

In my opinion, this is the best "how to", about a important scenery item that is VERY difficult to model convincingly.  As such, it deserves the ease of access that both the above criteria describe.

Congratulations!

Herb

Milocomarty
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Heather or heathland..









2 and 6mm grassfibers and WS pollen red and purple ..

Shall shoot a SBS on my grassmaking soon..

Milocomarty
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Been working on 2 tall 15 to 16” deciduous trees, trunk is partly a dowel partly wireframed so are the branches..





Shall make more pictures doin the proces..

Milocomarty
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Made a start on coating the wireframes and bit of barkstructure on the trees, using a flexible jointfiller (waterbased) mixed with a dot of RAL 7022 umbragrau latex wallpaint, needs a couple of coats more to hide the twisted wires..









been a nice and sunny day over here, nice to take the shots outside..

Milocomarty
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Will start now with a SBS on this treebuilding. Start with a tappered dowel in various sizes. Sometimes I do add the barkpasture before working on the wires, sometimes I do it after..in this case I started on the lower part of the trunk...



You can add variation by adding triangular shapes of cardboard and add the spackling compound..



Show it in a picture later. On top of the dowel theres a 1,5mm hole drilled and a ame size floristwire glued in place...



for additional banches at the top of the tree I added a couple of 1.2mm wires and started twisting a 0.6 around it...



Secured the first twist with some ACC, puff of activator to speed up things. Time to twist on...and bending the thicker wires where you want them..



As you can see I do seperate 1 wire, sometimes 2, depends on where you like the thinner or thicker branches. Time to twist on and doin loops..



Cover all the 1.2mm wires with loops and y twists. At the top of the 1.2 wire I do secure with a drop of ACC (only the top) and start cuttin the loops open, twistin in more wire to create more sub branches. In thes step you can go as far as you like..



Sometimes I glue wires into the dowel too, depends on the result I like to achieve..



This explains in my eyes the basics, more to follow...

dennischee
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Great step by step Martin thank you

Dennis

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You're welcome Dennis..

Milocomarty
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Well let's go on then, a short follow up, I started to build some stick in branches using 0.6 mm floristwire. Sometimes usin 8 sometimes 4 wires. Twistin and turnin, additional branches added..



I just start and build a couple. Don't mind if you have to many, can be used on new trees or as smaller bushes. Let's have a closer look..



Time for the cordless drill and a couple of drills in the size of the branches. In this case the vary from 1mm to 2.5mm. Take a branche and hold them to the trunk to determine the place where it goes. Drill a hole, I go in awry (?) then stick the branch in and ACC it in place. Puff of activator for speed. Repeat these steps with thinner or thicker branches untill you're satisfied about the look of the tree..



Most of the time I already have an idea where the tree must be placed on the layout. In this case the big one goes on the coastline with a smaller one in front...



Well that's it for now, takes time to build 6 large ones. And smaller birchtrees to place underneath...



How to build them I will show in a next SBS..

Herb Kephart
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Watching this closely----


Herb

Milocomarty
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Well lets start a SBS on the basics..

Twisting trees with floral wire

Needed :

- 0.6mm floral wire
- 1.5mm floral wire
- needle nose pliers
- cutting pliers
- ACC and accelerator
- rattlecan primer

Basic start with a core wire 1.5mm thick



here you start twistin a 0.6mm wire around..



make shure you leave a short groundpin free..



secure the first twisted wire with ACC..



now the fun of twistin and turning begins..turn wire arond the core and determine where your first branch will be , twist another wire anround the other and on you go. Make loops on places where you like your branches...



I do twist a couple of loops on the top and secure only the top with ACC..



Now it's time to cut open the loops, as you see a basic tree structure is already there..



In the next step we twist in additional wires to make a more complex branch structure..



closer look..



Know your tree frame is ready for a coat with primer, I do use the cheapest rattlecan primer I can find..



This makes the tree frame ready for the next step, bark..I'll show that in part 2..

Just a short note, when you look at trees you mostly see them grouped. A couple of trees of the same kind grouped together. I do already think about that in this early stage..



looking at this I did think it needs at least one short tree more..so I cut a core wire and placed it..



when I do start adding wire and branches I already can determine were the need to be..

That's it for now, more to follow..

jtrain
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That's so true about naturally growing trees in that they are found in groups. That can also make treemaking quicker because you won't need nearly as many branches to make a tree look realistic. Next time anyone is in the woodlands, walk underneath a group of tall trees and look up. The healthiest branches with leaves are around the outside of the group where direct hits the trees. he interior if a group of trees will have less branches, with fewer leaves. You can see it most in conifers.

--James:java:

Milocomarty
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Good idea to walk in forrests when you like to model trees. Just take a look at mother nature !!

For the next step

Needed :

- Woodglue (not shure if you call it yellow or white glue but it needs to be the one that will not dry water resistant or a slow drying with a longer open time)
- Latex wallpaint in a dark brown color (I use RAL 8019)
- Acrylic drywall sealer (not shure what the name over the pond is, dries clear and is acrylic based)
- MDF sawdust
- Fine kitchensieve

First we make the treemix made out of 1/2 part woodglue, 1/4th latex wallpaint thinned with the wallsealant (about 1/4th to)..

Start with the primed treeframes, most of the time I do have a couple of 10 made for this step, and cover the trunk and branches with the treemix but make shure you only do the twisted parts..



and add the MDF sawdust wit the fine kitchensieve..



Let it dry for a while. To thicken your trunk or branches repeat the step on the parts you like more volume..





Repeat these steps until you're satisfied about the look of your tree



I do use the sawdust coming straight from my sawing machine, has fine parts but also coarser particels..don't throw them away but keep them in a seperate container. I use them on the lower parts, most of the time the most coarse part of the trunk..

The sawdust, fine sieved..



coarse..



just the gluemix on the lower part of the trunk..



coarser sawdust added..



the final step for today is covering the whole tree with the gluemix...



Depending on what kinda tree you model you can start painting after this coat dries, for the birchtrees I like to model there will be a step more wich I will show in a follow up..

Milocomarty
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Modeling birch trees

for the final coat on the trunk and branches..

Needed:

- flexible jointfiller (acrylic, like the DAP http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=139&SubcatID=23)
- acrylic paint like a titanium buff dark.

First start with a blob of paint and a blob of jointfiller, we use the off white titanium buff dark to tone down the white of the jointfiller..



I use a paletknive to mix it and again a small pointed brush to add the paste to the treetrunk . Make shure you still leave the outer wires uncovered, would look like this when your done..



When this paste dries it leaves you the opportunity to smoothen it with a wet brush, or even add more structure with any tool you like, use a x-acto #11 or any other tool..

Did smoothen a bit here...





As most of you know drying times are our worst enemy, so I covered a couple and start painting them tomorrow...

mabloodhound
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Martin,
An excellent tutorial.   Anyone can build tress following this SBS.
I'll be using it to make some of my own.
:moose:

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Thanks Dave !

Last step for the frames, weapons of choise..

- stiff pighair brush
- brushes with a funny tip out of somekinda rubber, pointed and flat..
- latex wallpaint RAL 7022



first of all I do paint the lower part of the trunk, and start drybrushing the rest of the trunk and branches with the umbergrey wallpaint using this stiff brush.



Now I take the funny ones, adding stips and stripes on the trunk...



that's all, time for a testfit on the layout..



with another colormode on the Nikon..



Next update about the foliage..

Lost Creek RR
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Simply stunning.
Rod.

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Nice Birch results Martin. Not far off the ones in my front yard :)

Cheers,
Dan Pickard

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Thanks guys !

Short inbetween, couple of bushes build..using sisal rope, gardenpond filtermaterial, grassfibers, WS turf and leaves from Noch..







Glued some on my layout...





Shoulders
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Hay Martine got a question.

Is it worth spending money on the expensive static machines or are the converted sieve type ok.

My aim is to make trees like yours.

Kind regards Dan

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Hi Dan,

in my eyes a static machine is always worth the price. Not only for trees and stuff but also for grasses and weeds. But with a converted teasieve it would work to althouh I do think it lacks power..

Shoulders
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Hi Martin

Cheers for the info, have asked a few people and they say the same as you and there not ones that like to spend money if they don't need to. So I might invest in one.

Cheers Dan

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Dan, maybe you have to look here http://www.rts-greenkeeper.de/ , german ok but we have google translate..35kV for the Noch grasmaster price, mens 15kV more. Remember I work with Maag and 70kV

Milocomarty
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Been working on another batch of bushes, made out of gardenpondfilterfibers (or wooly), hairs of a big brush, 12 and 6mm grassfibers , WS scenics fine turf and pollen for color, leaves from Noch and their flower mix...

Olive

Medium sized wild bushes (20-30mm) a 0 scale figure for reference..







Light green







Medium green





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Small bushes 15-20mm

Olive.







Medium green







Orange flowers..





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More bushes..30-50mm

White..






Light green..





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Great looking bushes!
Also glad to see that Snow White's husband retired


Herb

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Yep, is a lazy gardner right now :bg:

Milocomarty
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Two new mats..

Forest floor summer







Forest floor spring





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Really excellent grass work Martin. Lots of nice textures and heights. Certainly a well practiced skill you've mastered with this process.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard

Milocomarty
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Thanks Dan !!

Well after all these inbetweens let us get on with the SBS on the trees. Adding finer branches and foliage..

Needed:

Static device like the Noch grassmaster
12mm fibers
6mm fibers
2mm fibers
Rattlecan of spraypaint in a brown, brownish/green color
Turf like material, used Polak Purex fine light green on this one
Leaves I used Polak coarse leaves aspen green
Rattlecan flat clearcoat

First we start with adding some sprayglue on the outside of the wire branches. Try not to spray the trunk. Take the grassmaster loaded with 12mm fibers and shoot them onto the tree. You can clip the groundlead to the groundpin but I didn't..





depending on the tree you model, how dense the foliage must be shoot a second time with the 12mm, remember always sprayglu on the outside..





repeat this step using 6mm fibers..





repeat this step if it's needed, better go to low on the fibers the first time and add a second layer..





Now the final step in adding fibers, using 2mm to achieve the finest branches. Again sprayglue on the outside and add the fibers with a fine sieve..





Spraypaint time, just try to spraypaint the fibers and not the painted trunk..





Let it dry a short time. Than add sprayglue again on the outside and use a sieve to sprinkle on the turf..





Repeat this step using leaves..





Final a shot of clearcoat, also a rattlecan..and your tree is ready for your layout..

dennischee
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Interesting Martin, I think I could use this to make "Wattles" acacia

Dennis

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Would be interesting Dennis, show me the results...

Milocomarty
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Finished 2 big ones, between 40-50cm....





another..





Tree frame as described earlier wiit wooden dowels and wire, additional branches with static grassfibers, foliage with Polak Purex and leaves..

Milocomarty
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First try to model white pines..











almost 12" high

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Herb Kephart
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Museum quality stuff, Martin!!!


Herb

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Yes, excellent use of materials. Martin, have you made any using Noch leaves?

Milocomarty
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Not on the grasses Graig, do think they are to coarse for h0 to represent weeds, use mainly WS fine turf

Shoulders
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Looks great Martin.

I must have a go at some stage.

Cheers dan

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"do think they are too coarse for H0 to represent weeds, use mainly WS fine turf"



I think you have achieved the perfect balance for HO and larger scales. I've been working on a similar method of creating trees using home-made leaves punched from colored paper. I'm trying to make an effective punch, so I can mass produce broad-leaf trees such as; Maple, Birch and Elm. It's still a work in progress. I'm finding your work to be inspirational.

Last edited on Mon Aug 4th, 2014 05:28 pm by Craig W

Milocomarty
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Love to see tht Graig

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Well, it's a work in progress and I don't think it's quite photo worthy yet, but here is a process pic of what I'm doing. In the picture you can see a screen shot of a maple leaf, for purpose of scale I have a woman drawn to scale and then a scale sized leaf "circled" just to the right of the subject. As you can see, these leaves are very small. I have used an EDM machine a die to punch a variety of leaf shapes but so far I've had a lot of trouble with the paper getting stuck in the die. If I can solve that issue, I think the final effect will be pretty good.





Milocomarty
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Ouch, thats small, looking forward to the final result..

Milocomarty
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Fibers...

Alwin
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:shocked:

Is this all you have? Correct me if I'm wrong (the text on the boxes can not be seen very well), but I miss the 6 and 12 mm fibres.

Is the factory running on your consumption? :bg:

Alwin

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These are the 2, 4.5 and 6.5mm fibers Alwin, 12mm are in stock and stacked...

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Martin,
that is one serious thread! I am a notoriously fussy devil where trees are concerned...you pass with Honours!
I have no idea how static grass applicators work and so I am unaware of what materials are available for their use.
If you could find a few spare moments to run through the basics for we complete static virgins I would very much appreciate it. I am no stranger to twisted wire trees (I grew up with George Stokes wire wonders!), but the use of static applicators and their materials is very foreign to me and i feel a bit lost when reading your wonderful posts for which I thank you again.
Please keep posting.

Cheers,
Martin F.

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Hi Martin, I wish I found this post before starting on the scenery of my Tehachapi loop tunnel 9 module, those grass mats are awesome far better than the Javis mats I bought, wasn't happy with them.

The mats lost all the fibre on them and will have to top the mats up again.

I have a long way to go to be anything like your mats are, plan to buy that stuff on your posts too.









I had to take out a pic had copyright on it but the last pic doesn't, the last pic is what I want to achieve, any ideas will be a big help, will have some small shrubs like in the pic.





Tony.

Last edited on Thu Sep 25th, 2014 05:35 am by Tony M

John Mc B
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Beautiful work and those would look great in my high mountain area.

Milocomarty
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Guys would you please open a topic for this, hasn't anything to do with greenery and stuff...thanks !

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No worries Martin, you sure can get side tracked from one topic to another.

I will ask John if he wants to start another post on stations and other building and wonder if you can transfer those post over to the new topic.

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I apologize martin as I am still getting used to the site. If anyone can help we can surely start a "Station" discussion. Thanks

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Hi John, no worries I will ask Herb about transferring these post over to a new post topic on station building and layout kits, will let you know John.

Tony.

Last edited on Tue Sep 30th, 2014 07:15 am by Tony M

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Ok here's a pic on the new logging branch area scenery.

Attachment: Trees & Shrubbery 001.JPG (Downloaded 74 times)

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A closer look

Attachment: Trees & Shrubbery 002.JPG (Downloaded 74 times)

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Bridge

Attachment: Trees & Shrubbery 003.JPG (Downloaded 140 times)

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Mountainside

Attachment: Trees & Shrubbery 004.JPG (Downloaded 141 times)

Tony M
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Hi John, nice work on the plaster cutting and shrubbery too, I plan to have some small shrubs on the Tehachapi loop
tunnel module.

Oh yeah Herb has shifted our station post into the HO and 00 scale post under Large station building.

To get your pics back you can EDIT your post and repost them, I use imageshank now was using photobucket but got fed up of photos disappearing.

Look forward to seeing you on the new post with other member comments.

Tony :2t: :bow: :glad: :wave:

Last edited on Wed Oct 1st, 2014 05:37 pm by Tony M

Milocomarty
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Preparing for the first workshop about the use of a static machine to create realistic grasses, combined with the use of other scenery products.
Working on a small diorama..to show what's possible. First group of 8 this saturday..









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great work as usual Martin, good luck with your first class, hope you had a nice Christmas

Dennis

:wave::wave::wave::wave:

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Hi Martin, hope you had a great Christmas, will have to agree with Dennis, pure awesome. I would love the Tehachapi loop tunnel modules to turn out like yours.

Still a fair bit of work to do, at least most of the hard work is out the way, adding thicker grasses and low plants will finish the scene off.

I am going to redo the dirt road, not going to use the paving beading sand too heavy, looking at sing course sand, have you modelled dirk roads.

Tony. apl: :2t:

Last edited on Fri Dec 26th, 2014 12:02 am by Tony M

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Martin
Just plain fantastic. I aspire to be able to get even close to your scenery results. I will be waiting for your clinics.
Clif Korlaske

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Thanks guys...well for clinics over the pond..we have to find sommething here...

Fun during the workshop..

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Strewth that greenery is simply, well superlatives fail me, - amazing...

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By any chance did you have someone video the class?

Masterful work!

Herb

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I just read this thread again right from the start, still superb inspiring work. I'm off to the work room now, see you in a while!

Thanks again for sharing :-)

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Man how I wish I could attend a class like that.

Milocomarty
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Maybe will that be possible in the future..

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:bow::apl::bow::apl::bow::apl::bow::apl::bow::apl:
What can I say.

Ever thought about a youtube channel. Im sure you would have thousands of followers. And id be subscriber number 1

Last edited on Wed Jan 14th, 2015 07:49 pm by Narrowsteam

dennischee
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get in line Brett lol

Dennis

:):):):)

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Hi Martin

Have some questions

1. What type of spray glue did you previously use and what type of air brush do you use now?
2. What type of tacky glue do you use and do you dilute it for the air brush.

Pictures would be handy if possible please, hope you don't mind answering.

Kind regards Dan

Milocomarty
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Missed the questions Dan..sorry

For sprayglue I use the cheapest around here, they from smonekinda discounter store called Action..but if you want the best I would go for 3M..

The airbrush, use Sparmax airbrushes, DH 102 and 103, cheap but great to work with, if Mig Jiminez says theyre good I believe him..

Tacky glue, for the fibers / grasses I believe, use an acrylic binder the base for making acrylic paint, order online from a german supplier for artist materials called Gersteacker..or a kids / school glue from a French brand Cleopatre, use their Cleocolle

Shoulders
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Hi Martin

Thank you for your reply.

Glad it was just a small air brush as I have an old spare, thought it was a special type for industry work.

3M is that spay mount type?

How much do you water down the tacky glue 75% glue to 25% water or 50/50?

Sorry for the Questions

Cheers Dan

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Do have some industrial airbrushes but they are for my 1:1 jobs, compressor works great tho with the small ones with a 300 liter drum...

Most of my time I have my tacky glue rather thin, bit like yoghyurt you can drink..not really a ratio in it. Do mix the acrylic binder 50 /50. Search long enough and you find a UK shop..http://www.greatart.co.uk/Gerstaecker-Acrylic-Binder.html

Milocomarty
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Been working lately on wireframe trees and various trunks. Tried some new stuff to model their bark, Vallejos Dark Earth, an acrylic paste..













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Hi Martin,

That looks great. How did you get the texture on it? or has that stuff some texture of itself?

Alwin

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The dark earth has texture, military modelers use it for dirt roads and so on..

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The dark earth gives a nice effect

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G'day Martin, the tree trunk is awesome, great work.

Is that the same way you model your roads using that stuff, as usual probably can't get it over here, I used bedding sand, a bit too heavy,want to model Hway's

But sadly have scrapped the Tehachapi loop for the Feather River route in the US , have cut the layout back as well.

The new design has one tunnel and a double deck bridge I will be modelling and down the track another spiral loop, cutting the layout back will get the train running quicker.



There could be a dirt track on the pic, still searching for more pics, good news is I can use all the track decking that was cut out for the TL track plan.

Happy Modelling Tony.:2t::glad:

Milocomarty
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Thanks Rowan !

Tony, Vallejo does have distributors in Australia http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/country/distribution/1

And I model my roads (dirt) out of fine sand and glue, otherwise I use airhardening clay..

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Hi Martin, thanks for the link , there are two hobby shops one in South Australia and NSW.

I couldn't save the pic on Google map but how high do you reckon the hill is the High way sneaks around the edge of it, big cutting.

Going to contact Oroville library to ask for more info and pics of the bridge and tunnel 5, plus railway clubs to contact.

https://www.google.com.au/maps/@39.666056,-121.531005,3a,47.5y,17.74h,88.5t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1sFBe8dwq2eY8TWj858O11eg!2e0

Tony.

Last edited on Tue Mar 10th, 2015 08:02 pm by Tony M

Milocomarty
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Big box of stuff arrived this week from Scenic Express, couldn't resist to play a bit wih their fine turf..





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Renewed range almost done..wrote about it in my blog..https://martinwelberg.wordpress.com/2015/05/08/renewed-wild-verge-line/

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Spring with weeds



Spring with some dead winter grasses

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So Van Gogh is still alive & creative !. Amazing realism, many compliments.

Regards,           Michael

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https://martinwelberg.wordpress.com/2015/05/14/wild-shrubbery/

Alwin
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That stuff looks so real! The shrubbery as well as the new grassmats. Cool.

Alwin

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Thanks Alwin

This is the last in the row of the wild verge line, type D. Comes with or without weeds. Dug out Mike the mechanic to for reference of the size. Mike is a 1:50 scale Preiser figure.



https://martinwelberg.wordpress.com/2015/05/16/last-in-the-row/

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Martin, Nice photos and article you wrote for the new On30 2015 Annual.  Congrats.

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Thanks Dave !

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Couple of large scale pines, fast shot with the iphone in my backyard, 23 to 28 inch

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Couple of shots more of these huge buggers..











used air hardening clay to model the base of the trunk..

Alwin
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You can also make photo's of the "real" thing, there is almost no difference. Those trees are perfect!

Alwin

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Agreed!

Herb

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Thanks !

Proudly present the heavily bushed area..















Rod Hutchinson
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Impressive Matin. I wish I had had the time to visit during my stay in Stadskanaal.

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Thanks Rod ! Maybe another time..

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Hi Martin,

My wife would like to visit family in Stadskanaal again, so I think another opportunity will come our way.

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When you do Rod you should come over...

Wild Verge with weeds..





















The ground colors match Woodland Scenics fine turf, the weeds match Scenic Express fine turfs..

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Wild Verge this time without the weeds..



















Rod Hutchinson
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Nicely done Martin.

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Thanks Rod !!

Rough Meadow..















Milocomarty
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Rough meadow with weeds..















Rod Hutchinson
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Should visited you I reckon.

Milocomarty
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You're welcome anytime !

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I am so deeply impressed with your scenery results, I can't put it into words.

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Bit of greens again, scale 1 or 1:32. Lousy iPhone pics::)















Last edited on Fri May 12th, 2017 05:13 pm by Milocomarty

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Hi Martin 
If you consider that last lot of photos "lousy" then I'd hate to see what you could do with studio lighting and a top-end camera. They are a lot better than I can get hand-held with my digital SLR. :bow::bow::bow:

I like the variation of textures that you weave into your greenery. :moose::moose::moose::moose: (minus 1 Moosie for the "lousy" camera???  Noo... here's that last Moosie :moose: Well done and superb work. 

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I"ll give it a shot when finished wit the Nikon and outside lights. Getting nice summer weather over here..lousy I mean more in DOF and so on..DSLR's are so much better for that..

Herb Kephart
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John, Miartin's scenery is always top quality--that's why it became a "sticky" a while back.


Herb

Tileguy
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Top Notch Work...Mike would give him 20 moosies ;)

Herb Kephart
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Hi Todd

Nice to see that you stopped by.

How are you doing?

Herb

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Thanx!

Couple of iPhone quickies weathering track and other stuff..









Milocomarty
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Made a couple of touch ups, repairs in the past done by someone else out en new stuff in.







some muddy slam..







dry and airbrushed ready for some layers more of washes and pigments.







More green stuff and other thingies.










Done on wednessday...

Milocomarty
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Couple of new pics, think I'm done on this module..









slateworks
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Superb result Martin.

Milocomarty
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Thanks Doug

oztrainz
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Milocomarty wrote: Couple of new pics, think I'm done on this module...
Yep. I'd say so..Very well done  - I don't think you could fit in any more greenery.

Lee B
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This module/display base is amazing.

Milocomarty
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Thankks !

Milocomarty
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Question asked, can you make tufts in more layers, colors and if possible with weeds? I think you can..












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