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'Archer' Rivet Decals - Information & Use
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 03:36 pm
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mwiz64
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Has anyone here used Archer rivet decal sheets? They look interesting. I'm just wondering if they turn out well or if they are particularly hard to use.

Thanks in advance

Last edited on Mon Jan 28th, 2013 03:37 pm by mwiz64



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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 04:17 pm
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mabloodhound
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I picked some up at the big Springfield show on Sunday and will be trying them out, but probably not right away.
They're not cheap though.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 05:12 pm
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Dallas_M
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The Archer ones work well, nice thin film -- that becomes almost completely invisible with Vallejo decal solutions (or similar stuff most likely) ...

Micro-Mark makes cheaper ones ... useful, but thicker film & quality not as good as the Archer (IMO).



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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 05:44 pm
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mwiz64
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I know... They're not cheap but I want to give them a try. I'm going to build a rectangular tank car to house the battery for my Brookville. The way it is, no 2 cell lipo pack that I have found fits. I sort of knew that was going to be the case once I had it done. Oh well, a little tank car will be cool!

Thanks for the info guys!

Last edited on Mon Jan 28th, 2013 05:50 pm by mwiz64



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 12:49 am
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Herb Kephart
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Phoney rivets reminds me of something that I heard over the weekend.

A local tourist railroad, the Wilmington and Western had a tender for one of their steamers that was nothing but a bunch of leaky patches, so they let out a contract to have a new body built.

The new piece was of welded construction and has cosmetic rivet heads spotwelded on the outside.

No, Si, Herb-o-Matic does NOT make a rivet press that robust!

Herb 



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 01:26 am
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W C Greene
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Yes, I will keep my Kephart-O-Matic rivet machine. I have used the decal rivets and while they are easy to apply, they just don't seem to have the same "depth" that punched rivets have. In large scales, those modelers use N scale track nails which really look right! But whatever floats yer boat is OK by me.

Woodie



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 12:34 pm
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mwiz64
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I'm just looking for possibilities. I have friends that build amazing 1/5 scale warbirds. They painstakingly place every single rivet by hand. Now imagine spending a couple hundred hours riveting.....

I don't think a rivet punch would work well on styrene, would it? I also don't think I can work with brass very well. I might consider using nail heads but I don't want a few giant rivets in this location. More smaller ones would be more realistic, IMHO.

That said.... Herb, would you be willing to build me one of your presses if I paid you for it?

Last edited on Tue Jan 29th, 2013 12:42 pm by mwiz64



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 02:06 pm
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W C Greene
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Mike-I have used the rivet machine in .020 and .030 styrene. You just need to adjust the "whack" pressure to suit.

Woodie



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 03:38 pm
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mwiz64
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Herb says that NWSL makes one similar to his. I'm going to go check it out. Maybe that's just what the doctor ordered. At the price of those decals I'm sure one could buy a press in short order.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 03:44 pm
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mwiz64
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Holy Smokes! I spoke too soon. The NWSL punch is $130 and riveter is another $90. That's quite an investment. I may just hold off on that purchase for a little while.



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