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Interesting idea
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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 10:23 pm
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jtrain
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HLW's 'Mack' locomotive is a cheap, but reliable engine that is easily able to be kit bashed or rebuilt in various ways. However, I just had an idea that would take mack locomotives to a whole new level. How about making a Garratt type locomotive?

From what I can tell, models of Garratts are expensive, but this one could be built for $150 ($100 for two mack engines, $50 for other materials)

Any thoughts or advice for making this thing?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 10:31 pm
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mwiz64
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What is HLW an abbreviation for?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2013 10:47 pm
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jtrain
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HLW, Hartland Locomotive Works

Sorry, I often leave out long names and put in abbreviations

They have a website at http://www.h-l-w.com Go to products, then to 'engines and cars' Then go to 'gas locomotvies'

Iv'e been told that the Mack has a very simple, and hence easy to modify body. out of the box, they look like toys, but some bashing and weathering gives it a much more realistic look.

Last edited on Mon Jan 28th, 2013 10:50 pm by jtrain



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 12:06 am
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Kitbash0n30
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They are heavy and pull very well for a 4 wheel loco. Their power block is built like a T-34 tank, if you don't have to have it, it ain't there, and what is there is built to last half of forever. Mack mechanism also comes with different hoods and either trolley pole or pantograph as "Sparky" loco.

Here's the innards of the motor block, I think this link will let you in, http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/HLW%20Sparky%20project/?action=view¤t=IMG_1165.jpg

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/HLW%20Sparky%20project/?action=view¤t=IMG_1166.jpg

Exterior of motor block
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/HLW%20Sparky%20project/IMG_1670.jpg

Have this crazy notion to build a quirky freelance A-B-B-A set of "something" using their mechanisms.

Last edited on Tue Jan 29th, 2013 12:16 am by Kitbash0n30



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 02:35 am
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jtrain
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Thank you for sharing those photos. I can see that it is a simple design, which also means that it is low maintenance and simpler to fix when something does break.

For the locomotive I'm thinking of, a pair of these power blocks would be great. I think all that would need doing is running wires between the two motors (so that both motors run at the same speed and in the same direction) This also prevents one motor from stopping on a dead spot, making the other motor work harder. Not that I'm afraid of the motor block breaking, just don't want extra stress. (both on the motor, and on myself).

I am currently in the making of a 1:1 scale diagram for the G scale locomotive I have in mind.

By the way, for the person who moved this post (Dave?) I suppose this place does make more sense, so thank you.

--James:java:



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 03:12 am
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jtrain
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Okay here are a pair of images as to what I'm, thinking:





The blue object in the top photo is a one foot ruler. This thing measures about 32" long.

I decided to 'Americanize' this locomotive. The actual Garrett type locomotives were almost completely nonexistent on this continent. There may have been a display type locomotive, but nothing that saw actual work, especially on the logging/mining railroads these locomotives excelled at.

However, I incorporated a T-boiler, a spark-arresting smoke stack, Full cab, American style lights, and large, squared windows. To me, it looks kind of like a shay locomotive, except that it is jointed.:dt:

A pair of Mack engine blocks are used for the bottom. I kept the outside framing so that they would be more recognizable. However, the outside framing might be removed on the actual model to accommodate the pistons and rods. Although, I personally like it the way it is because I would then make it look like an interesting outside-frame design, which I believe is also non existent for for these locomotives. For the tow places the locomotive would articulate (at the front of the boiler and rear of the cab where there are two blank spaces) I think a simple hole with an appropriately sized peg would do the trick. The simpler the design, the better. That could also allow the locomotive to be taken apart into three pieces; the water tank on the front, the boiler and cab, and lastly the coal bunker on the rear.

Even though this type wasn't popular in the U.S, I can still imagine one of these pulling a string of skeleton log cars up a mountain, or weaving through the tight valleys filled with gold and silver mines.

An added bonus is that if designed right, this locomotive might actually negotiate 2' radius curves (4' diameter/ R1)! Although I might be a little optimistic.

It will be a while until I can get a pair of these Mack Locomotives from Hartland Locomotive Works (too many other projects going on right now).

Does anyone see any potential problems with the current design? I would like to have input so I can refine my plans.

--James:java:



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 02:19 pm
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Herb Kephart
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I say GO for it--I like Garrets

Take a look at this--

http://www.gearedsteam.com/bell/bell.htm

No need for visible cylinders and main rods--


Herb 



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 03:16 pm
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W C Greene
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How about this one...







This is an "American Garratt" after a rebuild so no grime, dirt, or crew.

Woodie



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 04:23 pm
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Kitbash0n30
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Would be neat if our history provided material for a book titled "The American Garratts".
Can you imagine what UP could have done with one?
N&W and C&O in coal mine country?
DM&IR in iron ore country?
Those would be some beasts.
And at the other end, SR&RL 2ft gauge in Maine.
And, of course, the Colorado 3 footers.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2013 05:04 pm
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Dan B
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Checked out the HLW site, that mack is a cool little engine, wish I had stuff that size to justify getting one.

Your Garret project looks interesting, should be a cool build when you get to it.  Keep us posted.

Dan B


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