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RC Smoothness and Sound
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 Posted: Sat Mar 30th, 2013 01:10 am
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Toeffelholm
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Jim,

Is does not only depend on the minimum voltage of a motor.

For example:

The Bachmann 0n30 streetcar drive. Has as starting voltage of about 5V. With one Lipo cell you cant make it move. But with two cells and one of Davids Rx/esc (I use them with 60Hz PWM) it is an excellent and powerful runner.

A Fleischmann Magic Train Loco has a similar Voltage but I can't start it with near zero speed. There I will change the motor.

At the time I prefer drives from an Austrian producer called Halling. Low starting voltage and runs slow and nice with one Lipo cell.

Juergen



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modelling in 1:22.5 on 32mm and 16.5mm track
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 Posted: Sat Mar 30th, 2013 12:25 pm
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Bernd
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There seems to be one thing that hasn't been disscused here. Amperage. There is a max amperage that the DelTang receivers can handle. With PMW you will be drawing max current at each "on" pulse. Make sure the motors do not over draw what the receiver will handle or you'll let the magic smoke out.

Bernd

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 Posted: Sat Mar 30th, 2013 02:50 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Very true--

And for our members that never took Electric 101, the lower the voltage, the higher the amperage FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF POWER OUTPUT.

Watts (power) = volts X amps.

It's attractive, with all the little low voltage motors around to think of using 1 LiPo cell--but the motor--or the electronics -  might not like the increased power required.

Herb



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 Posted: Wed Apr 10th, 2013 02:10 am
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dan3192
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Jim,

Sorry for the late response, it's been very hectic around here.

The other guys have essentially answered the question you asked about running smoothly. My r/c AMD-103 engine runs smooth and strong. In fact, and just for fun, we set up a "tug-of-war" with my engine and a Bachmann K-4 steam engine at a recent club meeting. The guys went bonkers when my engine dragged the K-4 down the track, it's wheels spinning furiously (my engine weighs 1 lb, 1.6 oz.)

Since I also have long runs as a goal, I'll mention how I select locomotives to meet these two objectives, i.e., why did I choose the Athearn Genesis Mikado to convert to r/c. The method is simple. I use an older MRC Tech II powerpack to run my trains. Zero speed is at the 7 O'Clock position. Max. speed is the 5 O'Clock position. Most of my engines don't start running until the 10 O'Clock spot is reached. The Mikado ran smoothly at all speeds and started running at the 8 O'Clock position. To me this means I have an efficient running engine that will not drain my batteries quickly. That's it! You might want to try this approach.

I'm an active buyer and seller on eBay. I think this is the best place to find the plastic bodied locomotive you are looking for. There are many models available at any one time and in many price ranges. 

Dan 

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 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 04:18 am
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dan3192
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I posted a video of my test run on the Silk City Model Railroad under the section...DelTang 2.4 GHz Receivers, Post #332, for those who are interested.

Dan

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 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 05:39 am
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J.Brown
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Dan,

I can see that you have been busy! Very cool video of your test run on the Silk City Model Railroad. Is that HO?!   If I understand your locomotive selection process: you test a candidate locomotive by running it on a DC track with an older powerpack that you use for the purpose of testing the setting at which various locomotives will start running. If they start at a low setting like the Mikado did, they are a good candidate for R/C conversion.

I bought an inexpensive Bachman HO Union Pacific FT-A diesel to chop up as necessary in experimenting with R/C conversion. I did something similar to what you do by testing it with an old powerpack that I had laying around to get a baseline of how it performed. I’ll compare that with how it runs after conversion to R/C. The way that the Bachman FT-A is built it looks like I will be able to get the LOSI receiver into the locomotive but I don’t think I can get the battery in there. I think I’ll try to find an unpowered FT-B unit or another FT-A (dummy) to carry the battery, so thanks for the tip about eBay.  I’ll go hunting there. In the meantime, a box car may have to do.

When I actually do the conversion, I think that I will be able to do it in half an hour, like Woody did back in the day, but I find the project takes quite a few hours of staring at it before I make my first cut!

-Jim

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 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 02:03 pm
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dan3192
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Jim,

It is HO, and yes, this crude method is the first step I take in deciding what to convert to RC, or RCC as I'm now calling it (Radio Command Control).

Good luck with the FT project. Try not to use grease or heavy weight oil when lubing parts. It affects run time. I use Labelle #107 plastic compatible oil, and sparingly!

You mentioned staring before doing. That's a keen observation. I think I've spent 1/4 the time staring (and plannng), 1/2 the time studying RC related technologies, and 1/4 the time running and "doing". Keep staring, and keep "the big picture" in mind.

Let us know how you're doing.

Dan

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 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 04:08 pm
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Dave C.
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Jim

I posted these pics of my athern super geared F7's with older Bachmann FT bodies.

they run very smooth.  These use a kiosha board with an eflite 11.1 vbat.  Woodie did the conversion.

 

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 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 05:58 pm
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J.Brown
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Dan

I like the term RCC ("Radio Command Control") to refer to this new phase of the hobby. It has a nice continuity with DC, DCC, RCC—don’t feel like such an orphan out there! Yet it recognizes that this is a game changer ushering in the next phase of the hobby as revolutionary as DCC was to DC. I think that even when things like sound, lights, smoke, etc. are added (like gear, flaps, elevator, rudder and aileron in model planes) it will end up being a more elegant solution than DCC.

-Jim

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 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 06:14 pm
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J.Brown
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Dave

What a beautiful pair of F7s. It shows how important it is to investigate the drive design before buying a locomotive. Mine is so high that it uses up too much space in the loco and is going to force me to put the battery in a box car. Yours shows that with an Athern super geared setup there is plenty of room in an HO diesel for both the receiver and battery.  

Your layout is handsome—some nice building and car models in addition to the beautiful locos.

Thanks for the pictures showing the installation so clearly.  How do you charge the battery and what kind of battery life do you get between charges?

-Jim

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