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RC Smoothness and Sound
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 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 08:10 pm
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W C Greene
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Jim-Dave is out of town for a week so if I may, I will answer the questions. The Li Po is taken out and recharged, it and the board fit nicely inside the dummy unit. The powered unit is connected with a Miniatronics 2 pin micro plug to the dummy. I believe Dave gets about 6 hours/charge on that 3 cell, 11.1 volt 800MAH battery. Dave had to use a KYOSHO board in this because 7.4 volts (2 cell) wouldn't provive enough voltage for the loco and the LOSI board which he uses in other locos would fry with that much voltage. I trust you have the answers now. If you need more, just ask and I will respond.

Woodie



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 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 08:51 pm
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dan3192
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Jim-

Don't forget AC (Marklin) and DCS (MTH).  And isn't it nice to know we can take our locos to any of these layouts and not give a hoot how the track is wired?

For lighting, I decided long ago to go with LED's and fiber optics. It sure saves a lot of ma's (sorry, that's milliamps).

After lighting, I'll be looking at adding basic diesel or steam engine sounds. After that, receiver-based track switching, wireless charging, and ultimately FPV for trains (google that on YouTube!).  Yes, I agree, RCC is the elegant game changer for model railroading... 

Dan

  

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 Posted: Sat Apr 13th, 2013 02:13 am
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bobquincy
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Since this thread is partially about smoothness, I found there may be some benefit to playing around with PWM frequencies. My DT Rx43 has five settings for PWM frequency and I guessed that the highest would give the smoothest operation but that was not the case. One of the slower settings actually worked better with my motor to deliver very smooth starting and low speed operation.

There may be no way to tell in advance which setting will be the best so some "guess and try" is involved. It is not too difficult once we get the routine down for programming the receivers, it takes me less than a minute to adjust and test the settings now.

boB

Last edited on Sat Apr 13th, 2013 02:15 am by bobquincy



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 Posted: Sat Apr 13th, 2013 03:01 am
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dan3192
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Bob,

That's very interesting. Is there some comparison to be made with how some power pack manufacturers get crawl speed at low voltage? I have an MRC Tech II for DC which provides low speed operation. Some of my engines hum quite a bit. I thing they do it by using half-wave rectification at low throttle settings, then gradually go full-wave rectification as you increase engine speed. So maybe the lower PWM frequency acts in a similar way. Anyone have any ideas on this?

What variation of Rx43 do you have? My DT is an Rx43d-2-v5. I didn't know you could adjust the PWM frequency. Assuming I'm also able to do this, could you elaborate a bit on the procedure for making this adjustment, or is it online somewhere in the instructions, which I apparently missed?

Dan 

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 Posted: Sat Apr 13th, 2013 03:01 pm
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bobquincy
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Dan,

I have the same receiver that you do.  The programming instructions on the DT website show the large number of options this receiver has.  PWM selection is in "level 1 - 4 flash", I programmed mine for "42223" which gives 130 Hz PWM.

Following David's advice I bought the least expensive ($18) DSM2 transmitter I could find on eBay and use that just for programming.  It is a bit confusing at first (at least for me) but after a few rounds it gets pretty quick and easy.

Half-wave rectification is probably better for starting than full wave but full voltage pulses should be even better.

boB



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 Posted: Sun Apr 14th, 2013 02:29 am
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dan3192
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Here's a short video of my Great Northern E7A on the Silk City Model Railroad taken in January.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eao_BMSspFI

This was the final run of my original power chassis from last year with 6-wheel trucks replacing the 4-wheel trucks. The Rx is the original Spectrum AR500 and the ESC is an Associated Electrics XPS surface type with brake, both now "retired". Lighting is via an E-flite light kit and LED plugged into the gear channel.

It demonstrated the feasibility of radio control for HO, and the smoothness I was looking for, helped by a large A-Line flywheel and an Escap 9-pole motor with ball bearings. It is powered by 4-AA LSD NiMH batteries. A 2nd A unit will be used in the future to carry 12-AA batteries with new and smaller electronics for the A unit. Batteries will be arranged in a 4.8v/3200mah or 9.6v/1600mah configuration.

Hope this is helpful to someone.

Dan  

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 Posted: Sun Apr 14th, 2013 02:06 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Thanks, Dan!

Interesting!!

Herb



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 Posted: Sun Apr 14th, 2013 09:10 pm
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J.Brown
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Thanks, Woodie

I think I misunderstood what I was looking at in Dave’s pictures. As I understand it now, Dave’s picture is of the dummy F7 with the receiver and battery in it and it is attached to the F7 with the motor in it by a Miniatronics 2 pin micro plug. So, he is using a dummy F7 as I intend to do for the battery if not both the battery and receiver. .

While I’ve got you on the line, I have a few questions about my LOSI conversion:

1.                  The black and red wires come out of the LOSI receiver into a connector and the orange and blue wires come out into another connector.  Rather than trying to find a connector that fits these connectors, I intend to snip off the connectors and solder the black and red wires attached to the LOSI receiver to the black and red wires from my battery harness and the orange and blue wires of the LOSI receiver to the black and red wires attached to the electric motor. Correct?

2.                  You have mentioned, “I do use Lithium-polymer rechargeable batteries in my stuff,” and my questions are: 1) What kind of harness do you use to connect them to the LOSI receiver and 2) How do you recharge them?

3.                  You mentioned that you are not using LOSI receiver boards now but KYOSHO boards and my questions are: 1) where do you get KYOSHO boards and where do you get the crystals to put in them?

Thanks for all your help.

-Jim

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 Posted: Sun Apr 14th, 2013 09:36 pm
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J.Brown
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Dan

I don’t know much about AC (Marklin) or DCS (MTH) but sort of considered them a variant of DCC like the Neil Stanton NorthWest Short Line’s (NWSL) (S-CAB)  and Duncan McCrae’s “Tam Valley RR” are sort of Radio DCC. (and I have seen a DCS controller converted to battery power and stuffed into a box car which is a wireless set up in the sense that there is no electricity or signal in the rails)

I guess I would then see 4 categories of model railroad control: DC, DCC, RDCC (Radio Digital Command Control) and RCC (Radio Command Control) with RCC eventually being the most elegant.

-Jim

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 Posted: Mon Apr 15th, 2013 02:08 am
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W C Greene
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Jim-I started out with the KYOSHO boards, the MINI-Z RACER cars were available then. Now, the LOSI boards are available. The Losi boards-red & black...to battery, red is positive. Orange & blue to motor. Black is antenna wire. Then there's the on/off switch harness. Yes, I use Miniatronics 2 pin micro plugs on everything including the charger. The wires are smaller as is the plug but they work just fine. The batteries are mostly in the locos and I just pull out the battery wires, disconnect to the board and connect to charger. I have run this way for over 10 years now so I see no reason to change anything. Does that answer your questions? Let me know.

Woodie



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