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Building Signs ... Making & Applying To Buildings
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 Posted: Sun Oct 6th, 2013 03:40 am
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Lost Creek RR
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Mark
When this effect happens on a plastic model using decal paper it simply means that it has not bonded to the model effectively. You then need to add more setting solution to try and get it to snuggle down into and around rivets etc. I would suggest that you are adding your decal to a porous surface. The idea is to paint an area the size of your sign with a clear gloss coat before laying down the decal, decals will not adhere to flat (dull) porous surfaces.
Try lifting your sign paint the area with a clear gloss coat, let it dry then add your decal with the decal setting solution. The same applies if you are using the decal on a plastic surface.
If you then see any dullness (looks a bit silvery ) under the decal film add more setting solution carefully. You can use a very small pin to make a few small holes where the dullness is to add the solution just in that spot. Do not touch the decal as it will move and all will be lost while it is wet.
Once all clear add a coat of dull coat and it should look hunky dory.
Trust this helps.
Rod.

Last edited on Sun Oct 6th, 2013 03:44 am by Lost Creek RR

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 Posted: Sun Oct 6th, 2013 02:08 pm
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derailed
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That does help Rod & makes perfect sense because it is such a rough surface.
I'll try that this week...
Thank you...



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 Posted: Tue Oct 8th, 2013 06:23 am
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JawboneFlats
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You can use the same sanded paper technique to add logos to your rolling stock, like this example.
Dennis aka JawboneFlats

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 Posted: Tue Oct 8th, 2013 01:25 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Never thought of that, Dennis, Great idea!

Herb



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 Posted: Sun Mar 23rd, 2014 03:28 am
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ModelTrainStructures
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I use the same sanding technique on brick buildings, then go back and hand paint some of the bricks. The WILDROOT sign is a simulated 'tin' sign.

D.A.





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 Posted: Fri May 2nd, 2014 02:15 pm
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CNE Runner
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This is an excellent thread...some really helpful tips (and those signs are great). As far as I can tell, no one has mentioned INK vis-a-vie the making of decals/signs. Most inkjet printer inks have a problem with color degredation. That is to say they fade over time. [If you have some older photos you printed on an inkjet printer, compare the color density to a recently printed image). The culprit here is a combination of air pollution (easily eliminated with a matt overspray...on both side of the picture) and (more likely) UV radiation (a serious problem if using fluorescent lighting).

There is a couple of ways around this problem: 1) use archival quality ink cartridges or take your laser decal film to a photocopy store (such as Staples) and have them print it on one of their high-end color laser copiers.

Just a suggestion...I enjoyed the thread.

Ray



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 Posted: Tue May 20th, 2014 04:45 pm
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ModelTrainStructures
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I used the same technique with wood as I do brick by sanding the back of the paper. If the base sign I'm using is wood, I'll use an xacto knife to make vertical or horizontal lines in the Basswood or Balsa.
Thanks for looking,
D.A.



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 Posted: Wed May 21st, 2014 07:30 am
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dennischee
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Very impressive am about to do an old shop will give this a try

Dennis
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 Posted: Wed May 21st, 2014 08:59 am
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slateworks
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For a different type of sign, I wanted a street banner and discovered (probably everybody except me knew you could do it!) that I could get my old Epson R300 inkjet printer to print on fabric.
I attached ordinary bed sheeting material to a piece of very thin A4 card (heavy grade printer paper would probably work) with half a dozen strips of double sided Sellotape to keep the material from "billowing" and fed it through the printer on "photo" setting. No smudges or smearing and it dried pretty quickly. The banner was then cut to size and hung on the layout.

001 by slateworks, on Flickr

x (9) by slateworks, on Flickr


Doug



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 Posted: Wed May 21st, 2014 02:49 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Doug

Make that two people that didn't know. I would have thought that the cloth would get all tangled up inside the printer.

Wonder if you can do tissue--would be more of a scale thickness, and wouldn't have the "grain"(weave) that the cloth has.


Herb



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