I'm working on a Saw Mill building that has a water wheel. Of course the water stream has to stop and start on the base of the structure. I'd like some ideas on how any of you have stopped/started a flow of water to make it look like it's not just chopped off of each end.
One way to start is to have the stream come from behind a hill or small mountain so the eye cannot see where it starts. I just end it at the front of my RR. Then by changing the shape at the front of the layout you can let the imagination work it out. It could also start from a waterfall coming from a small mountain that is covered by trees so you cannot see the start.
Just a couple, I'm sure there are many more.
Not an answer to your specific question, but in the real world the flow of water into the forebay is slow enough that there is not really any precipitable movement. The volume to the wheel is controlled by a guillotine like vertical slide (the top operating mechanism is painted black in the photo). Water exits forebay through horizontal slot just above rim of wheel in a stream about 2-3" ''thick''. Curved piece of acrylic plastic from slot, to rub on wheel surface on model?
Buckets dump water from wheel in bottom 30-40 degree arc. Water wants to fall clear of wheel, but is not usually not visible down that low. The bucolic painting with the bottom of the wheel forming ripples in a pond below the wheel is pure artistic BS. This is referred to as ''back watering'' and is to be avoided at all costs, as that will absorb a very large percentage of the wheels potential horsepower just stirring the pond water around. This happens some times in the Spring when the water level in the creeks is high--and you are just as well off waiting for the excess water to drain off naturally. Not many know that the mill can have too little water available in a drought, as well as too much during the Spring run-off--both putting the mill out of action, temporarily.
____________________ Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
Thanks for your great ideas, and for taking your time to answer my question. I can certainly start it from behind the building. I'll post some pics when I get to that point. Right now I'm still putting the building together.
Thanks Herb for the link and explanation. Those pics of the mill are outstanding. I never really knew about the ripples at the bottom of the wheel, and you're right, every artist pic I've seen with a water wheel has the water churning at the bottom. I'm wondering how many people really know that, and if I don't have some bubbles at the bottom of the wheel (realistic), then is Joe Public going to think it looks realistic? LOL!
There are basically 4 types of vertical water wheels. This gives a good explanation of each http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_wheel and their advantages.
Breastshot wheels were the most common in the US however, the overshot has the best work advantage.
And a backshot wheel would be used where seasonal water levels vary a lot as it could keep running even with water almost up to the axle.
Just for your information only. Use the style that looks best for your layout.
____________________ Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30 “All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.” ~ Thos. Jefferson
“Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not.” ~ me
I finished the structure. The stream starts from the top back right flowing down the side, then turning the corner under the wheel, across the front, then landing in a pond-like area. There are 2 areas in the pond where water would flow out. Here are a few pics.
Thanks for looking,