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Posted: Thu Oct 16th, 2014 12:12 am |
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41st Post |
Posted: Tue Oct 28th, 2014 05:54 pm |
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42nd Post |
Broadoak
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Very nice indeed, I love it.
Peter M
____________________ Peter M
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Marsh_Creek
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Been a while since I posted.
I went with a 3D printed frame for the second Forney. #2's shell is just on there for show. I haven't had much of a chance to work on the second.
Now this is happening:

I did a really poor desigin job on the first one. Luckily, I don't have to scrap anything other than time, and some track. I'm going for all code 55 handlaid. There is a turnout kit and a bunch of supplies on it's way from Fast Tracks.
My question for you expert track gangs:
Do I need to have this thing over engineered like I have drawn it, or can I safely hand lay directly over foam?
I was thinking this:
Track
Hardboard (Masonite 1/8")
2" Foam
1/2" Ply box construction.
I'm ready to start cutting wood. I just need to know if I'm going to be Norm Abram and building this monstrosity, or if I can cheat and use foam.
Thanks!
Rich
____________________ If by prototype, you mean the first time I built something, then yes, it is prototypical.
Rich
http://marshcreekmini.com
https://www.facebook.com/MarshCreekRailroad
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Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2014 11:35 pm |
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44th Post |
Tim G
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For the kind of topography you are doing, I think that plywood is the way to go. Shouldn't be too hard to jigsaw the landforms.
Please tell me that Marsh Creek will be offering a 3D Printed Forney conversion kit for the MiniTrains loco...pretty pretty please? *fingers crossed*
____________________ -Tim Gill
Subscribe to/Visit my Model RR Blog: http://www.marmionvalley.blogspot.com
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Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 11:35 am |
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45th Post |
Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 03:42 pm |
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46th Post |
Thayer
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Joined: | Sat Jul 5th, 2014 |
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Posts: | 99 |
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Rich, I would think you want at least a fine tip for soldering the points to the throw bars. Having a lot of heat isn't a bad thing though. You can get in and get out quickly which should help keep the heat off the stock rails. In addition to the heat, you want to control the flow of the solder as best as you can. Keep everything clean, tin the iron only lightly and get in and out as quickly as you can. If it continues to be a problem, I might even consider some sort of a solder resist on the side of the stock rail. I don't think that would be necessary though once you sort out the proper technique. Last edited on Thu Nov 13th, 2014 03:44 pm by Thayer
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Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 04:09 pm |
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47th Post |
Herb Kephart
Moderator

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What Thayer said
Herb
____________________ Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
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Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 04:40 pm |
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48th Post |
Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 10:16 pm |
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49th Post |
Marsh_Creek
Registered
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First successful turnout built! I jammed a piece of wet copy paper between the point and stock rails. Worked like a charm. Luckily, only two more to build and then on to actual track laying!
____________________ If by prototype, you mean the first time I built something, then yes, it is prototypical.
Rich
http://marshcreekmini.com
https://www.facebook.com/MarshCreekRailroad
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Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 10:17 pm |
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50th Post |
Thayer
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Congrats Rich! That has to feel good.
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