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Buzzard's Cove - HOn30
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 Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2014 11:12 pm
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chasv
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:glad::moose::moose::moose::moose::old dude:



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 Posted: Tue Oct 28th, 2014 04:54 pm
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Broadoak
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Very nice indeed, I love it.

Peter M



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 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2014 05:27 pm
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Marsh_Creek
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Been a while since I posted.


I went with a 3D printed frame for the second Forney. #2's shell is just on there for show. I haven't had much of a chance to work on the second.

Now this is happening:



I did a really poor desigin job on the first one. Luckily, I don't have to scrap anything other than time, and some track. I'm going for all code 55 handlaid. There is a turnout kit and a bunch of supplies on it's way from Fast Tracks.

My question for you expert track gangs:

Do I need to have this thing over engineered like I have drawn it, or can I safely hand lay directly over foam?

I was thinking this:

Track
Hardboard (Masonite 1/8")
2" Foam
1/2" Ply box construction.

I'm ready to start cutting wood. I just need to know if I'm going to be Norm Abram and building this monstrosity, or if I can cheat and use foam.

Thanks!
Rich



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If by prototype, you mean the first time I built something, then yes, it is prototypical.

Rich
http://marshcreekmini.com
https://www.facebook.com/MarshCreekRailroad
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 Posted: Wed Nov 12th, 2014 10:35 pm
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Tim G
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For the kind of topography you are doing, I think that plywood is the way to go. Shouldn't be too hard to jigsaw the landforms.

Please tell me that Marsh Creek will be offering a 3D Printed Forney conversion kit for the MiniTrains loco...pretty pretty please? *fingers crossed*



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 Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 10:35 am
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Marsh_Creek
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Over the weekend, I was able to do some carpentry.





And yes, the Forney Frame is available on Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/Marsh_Creek


My order from Fast Tracks arrived on Monday, and I have been watching videos, and slowly building a turnout. I built one already, but soldered the point to the stock rail. It happened incredibly fast! Maybe I should use my smaller iron on those to keep the heat manageable.



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If by prototype, you mean the first time I built something, then yes, it is prototypical.

Rich
http://marshcreekmini.com
https://www.facebook.com/MarshCreekRailroad
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 Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 02:42 pm
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Thayer
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Rich, I would think you want at least a fine tip for soldering the points to the throw bars. Having a lot of heat isn't a bad thing though. You can get in and get out quickly which should help keep the heat off the stock rails. In addition to the heat, you want to control the flow of the solder as best as you can. Keep everything clean, tin the iron only lightly and get in and out as quickly as you can. If it continues to be a problem, I might even consider some sort of a solder resist on the side of the stock rail. I don't think that would be necessary though once you sort out the proper technique.

Last edited on Thu Nov 13th, 2014 02:44 pm by Thayer

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 Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 03:09 pm
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Herb Kephart
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What Thayer said

Herb



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 Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 03:40 pm
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Si.
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Hi Rich

LOOKIN' GOOD !

Always nice to get the benchwork done...

...WWOOOOWWWWWW track time !!

All the best.

Cheers.

Si.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 09:16 pm
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Marsh_Creek
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First successful turnout built! I jammed a piece of wet copy paper between the point and stock rails. Worked like a charm. Luckily, only two more to build and then on to actual track laying!



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If by prototype, you mean the first time I built something, then yes, it is prototypical.

Rich
http://marshcreekmini.com
https://www.facebook.com/MarshCreekRailroad
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 Posted: Thu Nov 13th, 2014 09:17 pm
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Thayer
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Congrats Rich! That has to feel good.

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