It must be great to be so conversant with modern teknolgi that you can draw red arrows & lines etc on a diagram/picture etc. I would not have the foggiest idea (please don't blind me with trying to explain the science, my overload safety fuse would blow).
If it runs on coal or diesel I am a whizz but elektrons are a step too far for me.
I have been using grey ferrite looking magnets but rather stronger than the older type ferrites (a newer type iron alloy perhaps). I understand your comments re: magnetic polarity. To allow a fair test of magnetic strength I have also bought 1 Kadee magnet (Yes Si, rather expensive !) for trial use.
Your Car No. 430 looks very pretty. Was it regauged to run at your Museum or is/was 2'. 0" a normal tram gauge in Australia ?.
Also, I see the ends of your guard rails & wingrails are painted white, which I have seen in various other countries but hardly ever in the UK. I presume it is to prevent PW staff tripping over them ? But you never see the switch toes white painted. ??.
My thanks to Si, Herb, Jose & John for your helpful replies,
You can cut the Kadee magnets in 1/2 to make 2 shorter magnets. Both resulting "short" uncoupling magnets will still work OK and you have immediately cut you cost/uncoupler also in half
Car 420 was originally a standard gauge South Melbourne Tramway Company cable tram trailer car. It had no wheels when we got it and was re-gauged to 2' gauge at the museum. 2'gauge is still extensively used in sugar cane and was used in construction/quarrying mining and forestry industries in Australia.
The white painted pointwork parts were done so we could see if our rolling stock was tracking correctly through the points. It is very obvious if something is rubbing somewhere that it shouldn't be rubbing. Every so often we revisit the paint wear patterns to check everything is still doing what it should be doing (especially around the switch toe area). I hope that this helps clarify things,
Last edited on Thu Mar 5th, 2015 12:13 pm by oztrainz
Unanderra in oz
You can break the supposed "Maximum width = 3 x Track Gauge" rule IF you get in enough weight down low to give you a low enough Centre of Gravity to prevent tipping. BTW the one in the photo above is probably good for 30 45 mph top speed on the straight, but I wouldn't barrel around some of those canefield curves at maximum speed Those curves can go well under 100' radius (+60 degrees approx).
Car 430 can also go though 45' radius curves when being shunted. Its running on old 4-wheel timber industry disconnects as bogies. These have a very short wheelbase.
Hope this helps clarify things,
Unanderra in oz
"Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of fools"
It should work provided that:
1 - you pack up the outside edges of each side of the deck when loading/unloading the 'dozer. This will prevent your flatcar being rocked off the tracks during loading/unloading when the combined centre of mass of the dozer and wagon are changing away from the track centreline.
2 - you check you clearances on curves. The worst case will be the middle of the wagon grounding on "high" scenery on the inside of the curve. At the end of that wagon the deck doesn't extend too far beyond the bogie pivots at each end so the outside of the curves will be much less of a problem (and the deck is higher)
3 - watch out for any point throws - these might get "too close" especially if that wagon is taking the diverge route.
Can't wait to see what your bash ends up looking like when it is "done". Just how wise are you??
Unanderra in oz