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Another Solo (But Not For UNCLE & No Bobbing Intended)
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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2015 05:12 pm
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Shoulders
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Interesting.

How did you fix the tack down on the paved slabs?

Cheers Dan



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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2015 05:44 pm
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Helmut
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The tracks are made from 15mm sq. rods. I drilled 8,5mm holes down from the top and had them countersunk to accommodate flathead screws. A standard plug for a 6mm screw is 8mm in diameter, so I could use the pre-drilled holes as a guide for the hammer-drill. The rails were fixed with a jig so that the holes could be brought down precisely. Then I pushed the plugs through the rails into the concrete and fastened the screws. Very fast method and the trackwork is rather sturdy. In bends you have to drill every 12" to 16", at least in the outer rail in order to avoid widening of the gauge resulting from the lateral forces a loco is exerting when going round.

Last edited on Tue Aug 4th, 2015 05:45 pm by Helmut



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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2015 09:23 pm
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Shoulders
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WOW, really that simple- if it work then why not. I did wonder cause I thought if you had have used wall fixings these need a larger diameter which would have made alignment harder or anchor bolts which use the same diameter hole as the thread size which would be easier but then there was the hammering in and the expansion of both which my cause the slabs to blow.

I like your idea and looks very neat. I presume the screws are stainless:bg:

All the beast cheers Dan



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 Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2015 11:24 am
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Helmut
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Well,
after all that tracklaying I think it's time to reveal the reason for all that hurrying:


The one in the background carrying the flue on the smokestack. My good friend's son approached me in February and told me he'd like to choose designing and buildinga steam locomotive for his bachelor in mech. engineering's thesis. Whether I would like one? Oh, the price, I said but he made an offer I couldn't refuse ( still some dinero, but...)
Now, in August, it arrived and took the tracks under its own steam going up a 6.5% grade with the builder at the throttle:


In the upper reaches of the garden we had put down a rather hodge-podge temporary track with  grades up to 10%, but it made it all the way up:


My friend, a Bundesbahn loco driving instructor, watches closely of course...

All yours with a head full of steam -



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 Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2015 06:18 pm
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Alwin
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Hey Helmut,

That steam loco is very cool! And I see you don't have to wheater it anymore. :bg:
Have fun with it.

Alwin

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 Posted: Tue Aug 11th, 2015 06:31 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Great addition Helmut. I wrote addiction first by mistake--but it might just turn into that!

Herb



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 Posted: Wed Aug 12th, 2015 08:32 am
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Helmut
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@Herb
addiction - it always was that for me, being an Festiniog Rwy ex-fireman and auxiliary driver ( volunteer )



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 Posted: Sun Aug 16th, 2015 08:49 pm
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Helmut
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If somebody likes to watch the trial runs on a friend's 10.25" layout  ( Yes, the loco's gauge can be adjusted ) here it is.

Last edited on Sun Aug 16th, 2015 08:52 pm by Helmut



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2015 01:04 am
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Herb Kephart
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Nice! You can save steam by not running with the cylinder cocks open so long--only have to get the cylinders up to a temperature where the steam won't condense in them you know.

Next it would be nice to see one of those old Deutz 4 wheelers, with a horizontal I cylinder diesel--and big flywheels visible through open hood doors.

Herb



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 Posted: Mon Aug 17th, 2015 06:29 am
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Helmut
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@Herb
These were trial runs, e. g. note the different steam dome. They changed some things 'on the fly' there as the workshop is well-equipped ( makes me jealous at times ) The drain cocks now release only a rather small amount of steam, but is has been found that the counter-pressure which inevitably builds up when the valve cuts off and the piston compresses the remaining steam just before the end of its travel, is much less. So overall operation is smoother than with completely closed cocks. When starting from a pause, you have to open the cocks anyway.



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