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RCS BIK-U3???
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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 04:12 pm
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Bob D
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Tony, got another question.

On the schematic for the BIK-U3 it shows a jumper on terminals B and G if the charging jack is not used.

I'm not using the jack right now because I plan on using the Lipo battery and will charge it by disconnecting it from the system.

Do I need to install the jumper?

Also, if I go back and install the NiMh battery, I'll need the charging jack.  I'm putting this project in a brass engine.  The instructions say to isolate the jack from the metal but I have zero voltage on anything like wheels and track.  I see no need to isolate it but I thought I'd check with you first.

Bob D.



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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 07:04 pm
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Tony Walsham
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Part of the battery negative circuit runs through the jack so if the jack is removed the jumper must be inserted.

The jack will have a ground potential that can prove to be a problem where the body of the loco is part of the track pick up such as in many brass locos that are only insulated on one side.

The charge jack is also an SPST switch. The action is automatic and allows the jack to be used for two different purposes depending on whether the ON - OFF switch is ON or OFF. When the charge jack, or auxiliary batteries, are plugged in they use that switch for different results. Charging or Auxiliary batteries.

Please bear in mind these are quite large components as they were originally designed for Large Scale use.



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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 07:07 pm
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Bob D
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Thanks Tony, making the jumper now.

If/when I put the jack in a metal unit I'll make sure it's isolated.

Bob



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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 08:00 pm
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Bob D
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DONE!

I installed the system (my 2nd one) in my 3-rail Williams/Samhongsa brass 4-8-4 N&W Class J #611, plenty of room in the tender left if I want sound.

This engine is geared at something like 43:1 and creeps along with a slight crack of the throttle. It's just as slow as it was when it had a MTH PS2 (DCS) upgrade kit in it.

After I ran the engine around the layout a couple of times I hooked 4 Weaver aluminum passenger cars behind it and it pulled them just fine.

The engine alone weighs 14.2 pounds, each passenger car weighs over 2 lbs so that's over 22 pounds being pulled around the track. I honestly didn't think the 3amp Rx/ESC would hold up but I see no problems as of now.

I also have the Williams/Samhongsa USRA 2-8-2 and 4-6-2 brass engines, it'll be interesting to see how they perform as their gear ratio isn't as good as the 4-8-4.

I was going to try this in a diesel, but I've been leaning towards running only my steamers for the past several months. I may end up selling off my 1/2 dozen diesels in the future.

Thanks Tony for all your help! I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get accustomed to running "Dead Rail" :glad:

Bob



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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 09:14 pm
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Tony Walsham
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Given the small size of the Deltang Rx65b and the fact they are enclosed in clear plastic shrink wrap, I too am pleasantly surprised they can cope with such a heavy current drain, with no apparent overheating.
To be on the safe side though, it is important to wire in those 3 amp Polyswitch fuses as system overload protection.



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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 09:31 pm
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Bob D
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Got them wired in.  This is probably the heaviest train I run, that engine is a beast to lug around so I tend to leave it on the track once I put it there.

Here's a video of the real deal as it was headed to Roanoke yesterday, fresh out of the shops in Spencer NC:

611

Bob

Last edited on Sun May 31st, 2015 09:34 pm by Bob D



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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 09:51 pm
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dan3192
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Given the 43:1 gear ratio, the motor is probably operating at a high RPM. If the ratio was say 23:1, I think you would see a dramatic increase in motor torque and accompanying current draw. The fuses are a good idea for this setup.

Dan

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 10:56 pm
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Tony Walsham
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Great video.
One tends to forget that big "0" scale locos are almost as big and heavy as some Large Scale locos.
The Rx65b should be OK on a flat layout. If it turns out that the Rx65b cannot handle the load the OMEGA-3 series will work just nicely.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 1st, 2015 05:20 am
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Bob D
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I'll keep the Omega-3 in mind Tony.  What's the size of the board?

My layout is mostly flat but I do have one corner that, due to lousy carpentry, has a more abrupt elevation change when the train is going CCW, going CW it's more gradual.

Dan, makes sense. The other 2 Williams/Samhongsa engines I have don't have the same gear ratio, maybe I ought to try the system in one of them next.

The N&W J has a vibration I'm trying to get rid of. I disconnected the gearbox and shaft/universal joint last night and ran the engine on some test stand rollers and the noise is definitely coming from the motor. I may replace it if I can find a good substitute.

Bob

Last edited on Mon Jun 1st, 2015 05:32 am by Bob D



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 Posted: Tue Mar 7th, 2017 02:36 am
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Bob D
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Tony,

You may have answered this already and I've just forgotten.

What is the 3rd wire (gray or white) used for on the BIK-U3/6?

On most installations I have all 3 jack wires connected to the terminals on the BIK board, but I also have a couple of installs where I used a micro on/off switch (no BIK board) and cut the gray wire off the jack (spare jacks where I used LiPo batteries with a different charger connector) and it seems to work fine.

BobD.



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