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BlueRailTrains/Bachmann BlueTooth Train Control
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 04:32 am
   
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W C Greene
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Bob, I ain't familiar with this system but the motor should be electrically isolated from the chassis no matter what you use. Just like a DCC setup, even with no power to the rails, there is a chance that there could be a problem. You should be able to isolate the motor. There is an answer here but I don't have it. Just believe me, isolate the motor and you will be OK. Lights also.

Woodie



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 05:47 am
   
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davecttr
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I agree with Woodie, isolate everything from the track as it is just safer that way.

In fact I would go further and advise removing the wheel wipers and other pickups. For me it makes locos more efficient as they don't have to drag around all that sprung phosphor bronze



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 06:52 am
   
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fallen
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With pretty well any layout, there will be places where the two running rails are shorted together. For example, in a siding , if the points are set against the siding, the switch rails are shorting out the running rails in the siding. A loco on the siding will have its wheels shorted together.

So you must isolate the on board system from the wheels or the on board system will be shorted out as well.

You only need to isolate one of the motor connections so if only one of the motor connections is connected to the chassis and so the track this should be OK, but better to isolate both contacts if you can.

The real difficulty I guess is if you have split chassis pickup with the two motor connections each connected to one side of the chassis.

Frank

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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 11:56 am
   
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Bob D
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Just to be clear,

This was an original 3-rail engine with all the 3-rail components removed. The drivers are NOT isolated from one side to the other.

There is no power to the track, no pickups or wipers. There is no DCC system installed. The metal of the motor body contacts the metal of the chassis, via the motor mount.

Power comes from an on board 9.6v NiMh battery in the tender to the BlueHorse board. From the board it runs thru a cable harness to an ISOLATED connector on the rear of the engine chassis.

With metal gearing, even if I isolate the motor body, there's still metal to metal contact through the motor body/windings/shaft/gearing/axle/frame, I read a short when I measured it with my ohm-meter.

Still no response from BlueRail, so I appreciate you guys coming in to help.

If I isolate the motor body, how would I do it? If I put tape between the motor mount and motor body the metal screws are still making contact with both parts.

BobD.



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 12:07 pm
   
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Bob D
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LOL, problem solved!!! It pays to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!

Here's what BlueRail says to do:

TEST ISOLATION OF MOTOR

3) Disconnect all wires that lead to the motor terminals.

4) Using your ohmmeter or continuity tester, connect one probe to the negative motor terminal, and touch the other probe to the chassis – making sure there is no continuity. In a similar fashion, touch the second probe to each of the rails and verify there is no continuity to either rail.

5) Repeat this process for the positive motor terminal and verify there is no continuity to the chassis or either of the rails.

This was the ONE THING I didn't do, check continuity from the terminals to the rail [whack]. I did as they said and the meter reads open, go figure.

I think I'm good to go!

BobD.



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 06:03 pm
   
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Bob D
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IT WORKS!!!

I hooked the board up temporarily and plugged in the battery. All I have connected right now is the motor.

I saw the light blink on the receiver, selected the steam engine in the setup, and pressed the start button.

I have the leads reversed so that's to be fixed, but the engine (Williams By Bachmann 4-6-2, a small Pacific) started off at a nice slow speed. Increasing the throttle got the speed up to a pretty good clip, the sound coming from the Ipad is alright, but next step is to use the 1" wifi cube speaker I have mounted to the engine itself.

Not sure what the stall current is on the motor in this engine, but I didn't have any issues with it stopping or shutting down. Once I hook up the headlight and backup light I'll test again.

I like the tactile movement of a knob, so working with the Ipad is definitely something to get accustomed to.

Once I test all the components of the engine, I'll add cars to make a train and see if the 2amp capacity of the board can handle the load.

BobD.



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 10:35 pm
   
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NevadaBlue
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So, for now you are running the standard Bachmann app?



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 11:46 pm
   
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Bob D
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Ken,

I did, then realized the "manual" was written for the Bluerail app so I downloaded that too.

I went to the Ipad App store and searched for BlueRail, found it easily.

I think the BlueRail app has a few more features.

I tried the wifi cube speaker, it's not loud enough with all the noise an O scale engine makes so something will have to be done to make that viable. I see no reason a larger speaker with the wifi components can't be placed in a speaker box and a reed switch to turn it on/off. Maybe the Blue Horse board has a connection that can be used???

Bob



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 11:50 pm
   
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Bob D
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Oh...there's a button on the app so you can reverse the direction of the engine in case you wire the motor up backwards, no need to unsolder/resolder the wires!

Bob



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 Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 11:56 pm
   
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NevadaBlue
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Thanks Bob. I'l go look for the BlueRail app. It hadn't been released the last time I looked... I think.

Got it, thanks. Looks like it was released on 30 April.

Last edited on Sat May 7th, 2016 12:15 am by NevadaBlue



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