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Geneseo Railway
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 Posted: Wed Sep 27th, 2017 09:40 pm
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Larry G
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Hi Bob,

All your cars seem to have identical buffers on the car ends. How do you make them and what material do you use?

Larry G

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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 01:17 am
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Bob R
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Larry G wrote: Hi Bob,

All your cars seem to have identical buffers on the car ends. How do you make them and what material do you use?

Larry G

Sure Larry - make me show you the bottom of my cars so you can see how sloppy they are built!
The buffer design evolved from problems of tight radius turns and link and chain coupling.  In order to push cars through turns and turnouts it was necessary to have fairly smooth and wide buffers.  Otherwise the cars were pushed off the rails.  
I cut half moon pieces 3/4 inch diameter from 1/8 inch light ply and glued to car end.  I wrapped them with a piece of paper (weight of 3x5 cards) and attached with CA.  That hardens it as well.  The paper is about 3/16 inch high to ensure cars of varying height did not override one another.  Pins are everything from brass wire, paperclip metal to plastic rod.

Attachment: 20170927_195631_resized.jpg (Downloaded 86 times)

Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 01:23 am by Bob R



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 02:43 am
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Larry G
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Thanks Bob, Lead shot, good idea. Looks like I will need to scratch build some cars for my layout. Bachmann has raised the price of their tipper cars so high that I refuse to pay that much. I have a dozen tippers on the layout now, so that will have to be enough.

I'll be needing other types of cars so I was looking at scratch building sooner or latter. I struggle with scratch building so this is going to be interesting. Larry G

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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 03:58 am
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Michael M
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Bob,

I'm liking the bolsters and side frames on your cars.  Where do they come from?



Larry,

I understand how you feel about the high prices of some equipment out there.  I just can't justify spending mucho dollars on one car.  My equipment is scratch built with most cars costing less than $10 including trucks and couplers.

Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 04:09 am by Michael M



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Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad
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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 04:42 pm
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Bob R
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Larry - Make your own.  I drew up  templates for the tub bucket (sides and ends).  I made from card stock.  I roll the bucket piece around a dowel to get basic shape and glue in the ends with CA. Framing etc is more pieces of card stock.  When done I wick on thin CA.  It hardens the card stock and makes it like plastic.  Also creates nice texture like old metal.  Frames are made from Plastruct channel, balsa and card stock.  Rivets are Elmers glue applied with a hypo syringe and needle.  I cut end of needle flush with a dremel.  The pedestals are the axle journal pieces cut from cheap HO plastic trucks.  I usually find plenty at swap meets/shows that modelers have replaced with quality sprung trucks.

Michael - In addition to the pedestals from old foreign railcars, I have cast my own sideframes with epoxy in home made rubber molds and used commercial sideframes.  One of the best in my opinion is made by Wiseman Models.  It is the HO/On30 white metal logging disconnect kit.  Package of six is $39.95 including quality wheelsets.  I grind off the top detail and build a wood car over them.  No additional weight is needed as they are pretty hefty. 

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Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 04:47 pm by Bob R



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 04:57 pm
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Bob R
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If you want to be even cheaper.....
Make your own channel iron from card stock.  I have been making most of mine and I beams this way.

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Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 04:57 pm by Bob R



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 04:59 pm
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mwiz64
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I like seeing the underside, Bob. It's kinda like looking behind the curtain and seeing that the Wizard is really just a man. ;)

Another option for weighting things is a substance called tungsten putty. It's a little expensive but the nice part is it can easily be pressed into unusual shapes and it's pretty heavy. You can usually find it at any place that sells fishing supplies and on-line too.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 09:41 pm
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Bob R
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Michael - Good closeup of the Wiseman logging disconnect used as underframe.  Note the line at each end of the sideframe just where the metal detail ends.  That is the end of the disconnects white metal casting.  I extended the frame another 3/8" with same sized wood.  End beams are 1/8 x 3/8 balsa and planks are 1/16 balsa.  Stake pockets are 3x5 card weight paper wrapped around stake with a piece of U shaped wire over them.  Painted whole thing with artists acrylic raw umber.  Then dry brushed with artists acrylic white.  Painted metal with Model Masters acrylic rust.  Then dry brushed with artists acrylic raw and burnt sienna.  Nothing fancy...but effective.

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Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 09:50 pm by Bob R



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 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2017 11:40 pm
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Larry G
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Lots of great info Bob, Thank You. When I get to building some cars I'll post pictures here and on my Appetite thread. Larry G

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 Posted: Mon Oct 2nd, 2017 11:18 pm
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Bob R
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Larry - another idea!  If you look around at the dollar stores for plastic ice cube trays, you will find some that the individual "cube cups" can be cut apart and used to make ore car bins.



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