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Geneseo Railway
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 Posted: Sun Apr 10th, 2016 05:48 pm
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mwiz64
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What are you using as the basis for your critters? In other words, what's the power mechanism?



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Mike
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 Posted: Sun Apr 10th, 2016 06:54 pm
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Bob R
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HO scale Bachmann GE 44 Ton power truck. The old style had two separately powered trucks. The new ones have a single central motor with shaft drive (like Athearn). The old can often be found at train shows/swap meets and even old stock in shops. They run well but like many Bachmann engines the plastic axle gears sometimes split. They can be replaced or repaired. I posted a repair thread somewhere. I have also bought replacement power trucks with motors from the Bachmann online parts shop. They are about $15.00 but not always in stock.

Bob

Attachment: Critter bottom.JPG (Downloaded 138 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 10th, 2016 08:29 pm
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NevadaBlue
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Neat! I can't wait till my layout is in shape to start buildings, even if they are just mockups to start.



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Ken

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 Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2016 05:51 am
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Ray Dunakin
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Cool critters!



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Visit http://www.raydunakin.com to see photos of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!
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 Posted: Wed Apr 13th, 2016 12:58 am
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Bob R
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Another siding is along side Scott's Metalworks. Again built with foam board and card stock with acrylic paint. Signage is printed with my inkjet printer on tissue paper
(wrapping paper tissue) and then applied to the building with thinned Elmers glue. You see some signs printed this way om the other buildings including the brick building. I like this method because I can make my own signs with lettering and/or images I find on the web.

Attachment: 20160107_202514.jpg (Downloaded 109 times)



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Bob
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 Posted: Wed Apr 13th, 2016 12:59 am
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Bob R
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My attempt at a rusted metal roof. Again with acrylics.

Attachment: 20160107_202358.jpg (Downloaded 110 times)



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Bob
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 Posted: Wed Apr 13th, 2016 01:12 am
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Bob R
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In an attempt to distract from the flatness of the layout I cut out an area near the corner and create a gully/stream bed. A small wooden trestle was needed to bridge the gap.

Attachment: 08.JPG (Downloaded 109 times)



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Bob
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 Posted: Wed Apr 13th, 2016 01:15 am
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Bob R
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With the addition of some quick scenery material it takes on a bit of life. The water has not arrived yet. A crossing was also added.

Attachment: 20160316_121607_resized.jpg (Downloaded 108 times)



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Bob
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 Posted: Wed Apr 13th, 2016 04:00 am
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NevadaBlue
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I like it all. Could you explain more about printing on the tissue paper? I'm not sure how to feed the stuff to the printer.



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Ken

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 Posted: Wed Apr 13th, 2016 01:31 pm
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Bob R
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I select or make the image I want to print and usually test print with black onto a piece of bond paper. Then I cut a piece of tissue paper and lay it over the printed image. I tape the leading edge with a couple small pieces of scotch tape and reload the paper into printer. Then print in color.

Some inks will run when wet. If needed you can over spray the ink with Testors Dulcoat to set the ink.

I apply the tissue with Elmers. Usually I spread it with my finger using a little water to thin the glue. Gently press the tissue into the surface so it sinks into the surface texture. Don't over do it as tissue when wet becomes fragile. After it has dried you can use a sharpe exacto to cut the tissue where needed and reapply the glue pressing the tissue so it adheres well.

You can create your own decals and signs with this method. I use this method for buildings, street signs, rolling stock etc.

Of course - printers do not print white. I usually use the Paint program to create lettered signage and will reverse the colors so the background has color and the letters are basically clear. Then I prepaint the area I am applying the sign to flat white ( I use acrylic ). When the tissue is applied the letters appear white.

The attached image was made using the white letter method described.

Bob

Attachment: 20160125_113257.jpg (Downloaded 99 times)



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