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Jacques B
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As the prototype I selected  the house where I was born In Montfort  ( Belgium )
The flat structure has 4 layers:
glass
 windows frames   and door
 stone wall
relief details


Last edited on Sun Jul 10th, 2016 04:45 am by Jacques B

Jacques B
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First I  drew the front wall section , the stones were drawn one by one
The pencil drawing was  scanned to produce a .jpg file that  was  directly imported in the "silhouette studio " software supplied with the Silhouette Portrait
 


Last edited on Sun Jul 10th, 2016 02:51 am by Jacques B

NevadaBlue
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Excellent Jacques. I know that several of us will be watching this with great interest. I like that house a lot and could see a version of it being built here in Nevada.

Jacques B
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Using the silhouette studio software  the 5  openings  to cut in the wall were located.
The .studio3 file was sent to the printer .
The printed  document ( containing the stone wall , the 5 located openings  and 3  registration marks  to guide the optical system ) was glued to the mat.
The mat was introduced  into the cutter and the 5 openings were cut.
I now have a layer with the printed stone wall and the 5 openings cut.

The same  .studio3 file was used to erase the stones and draw  the door and the 3 windows at  the exact locations where the openings were cut. The arched portal opening was located and the file was printed
It was sent to the cutter to cut the arched portal.

A third layer was made for the stone details those were cut by the same process.

I  added a clear styrene layer for the glass panes


Last edited on Sun Jul 10th, 2016 04:48 am by Jacques B

Jacques B
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The final picture show the 4 layers better.

Last edited on Sun Jul 10th, 2016 03:19 am by Jacques B

Jacques B
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Another  version of the house  ( made using model builder software  ) where I scanned 3 different layers.


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Jacques

Was the photo of the real building reversed? I'm wondering why the model is the opposite ''hand''

Herb

Helmut
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@Jacques
the edges of the openings look a bit fuzzy, as if cut by a blunt knife, as do the windows ' and door frames. This look is a bit in contrary to what I've read abut the Silhouette's performance so far. Did you use the heaviest paper possible?

lest I forget
A link to Pendon's paper modeling howtos.
I had the pleasure of talking to the late Mr. Ireland about his techniques. A very informative talk that was.
With the Silhouette, one can transfer the painstaking steps into the program's care.

Last edited on Mon Jul 11th, 2016 02:15 pm by Helmut

Cor V
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i prefer to use collered paper thru and thru
that way you prevent the white paper you can see on the windows

Cor

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Paper modeling is a big thing in the UK, as I often read British model magazines for 'out of the box thinking' as they do things you never see in US magazines. I've seen some amazing work with paper siding for stone and brick done in those cases.
I am waiting to see what you accomplish here. It looks good so far!

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on the other side of the pond they have been pealing the paper off foam core and scribing stone or brick or rock and making bildings out of it that are 3d and don't have to cast them

Jacques B
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NevadaBlue wrote: Excellent Jacques. I know that several of us will be watching this with great interest. I like that house a lot and could see a version of it being built here in Nevada.Thank  you Ken for the kind words. Yes that house is  really beautiful and the stones come from a quarry located ... on the other side of the back yard fence. Weird place.

Jacques B
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Herb Kephart wrote: Jacques

Was the photo of the real building reversed? I'm wondering why the model is the opposite ''hand''

Herb
Herb,
The building was "mirrored' because it is  located at the front edge of the layout and  it was the only way to increase the track radius so a covered wagon can  get inside the brewery. The 2nd reason is that a brewery vessel will be visible from a large  window located at the side of the building.


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Pic of the brewing vessel

Jacques B
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Helmut wrote: @Jacques
the edges of the openings look a bit fuzzy, as if cut by a blunt knife, as do the windows ' and door frames. This look is a bit in contrary to what I've read abut the Silhouette's performance so far. Did you use the heaviest paper possible?

lest I forget
A link to Pendon's paper modeling howtos.
I had the pleasure of talking to the late Mr. Ireland about his techniques. A very informative talk that was.
With the Silhouette, one can transfer the painstaking steps into the program's care.
Helmut, first thank for the link to that  great Pendon museum layout.
I agree, on the "pencil drawn " version the edges  looks fuzzy. I cut the same building  drawn using Model Builder software  ( see page 1 ) and the edges look better. I'll post  a picture tomorrow.
And of course the close-up  exaggerates the defects. .
 So as you, I suspect a blunt knife because I was able to cut cleanly 0.010" styrene  . I'll post another pic tomorrow.
I start to like the Silhouette Portrait  and to learn how to use it.It is very accurate  the double-cut  is perfect
It does a better job than my 67 years old eyesight , my Optovisor and my no. 11 Exacto knive   :)

Here is a picture at "normal" distance view

Jacques B
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Cor V wrote: i prefer to use collered paper thru and thru
that way you prevent the white paper you can see on the windows

Cor
Thank you Cor for the suggestion.
It is not clear to me what you mean  .
In our case  do you suggest that I should   have cut the windows  using light brown paper   so there is no white paper edge showing  on the windows  ?

Cor V
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yes, thats what i ment
now you can see the white where the paper is cut

i will try to post some of the things i made with my cutter

Cor

Jacques B
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Lee B wrote:
Paper modeling is a big thing in the UK, as I often read British model magazines for 'out of the box thinking' as they do things you never see in US magazines. I've seen some amazing work with paper siding for stone and brick done in those cases.
I am waiting to see what you accomplish here. It looks good so far!


Thank you Lee for the kind words. I agree ,for whatever reason paper modelling is underestimated in North and South America ( I have some railroad modelers friends in Brasil )

Jacques B
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Cor, it would be interesting if you can post a few pictures and explainations of your work using the paper cutting machine.

Jacques B
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chasv wrote: on the other side of the pond they have been pealing the paper off foam core and scribing stone or brick or rock and making bildings out of it that are 3d and don't have to cast themCharles,  I tried that too. It  is fine for large scales. I tried to scribe cobblestones for a road in TT scale  ( 1/120  ) but the foam texture is too big.

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I'm a homebrewer and a homebaker. The first thing I tried with the Silhouette  cutter is to cut a stencil  to sift some flour and decorate the bread.
The stencil was cut in 0.010" Plastruct styrene and as one can see on the picture the cut is quite clean.
The knife was  brand new
The pressure was set to maximum
I had to finish the cut with a No. 11 exacto blade
The  silhouette was set to make 2 passes for the cut

Jacques B
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To compare ( you'll be the judges ) the windows of the pencil version and the windows of the Model Builder version.
Both were printed on HP matte brochure paper  48 lb   or 180g/m2
0,23 mm thick


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I think the building looks fine. Of course, if you wanted to, you could color any paper edges with a marker. That's what I use.

I think the house can become a workshop. I must remember this thread when I get some modeling time again.

Jacques B
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Thank you Ken for the tip of using a marker to hide the white paper edge . The Model Builder Project Ideas booklet suggests using colored pastel chalk.

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Jacques, we (my wife and I, she is quite an artist) have a selection of markers from children's Crayola markers to her fancy ink and paint markers. I've found that a set of inexpensive felt tip colored markers gives me a good selection for coloring edges to match or contrast as needed.

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Gents, I cannot resist to show you the results of my trials in TT scale. I bought this cutter (Silhouette Portrait) to speed up the creation of buildings on my modules. What I found out so far:
Instead of attaching 160gr/m² cardboard to the cutting mat, you can also tape it on the edges to a sheet of bristol board and use that as support during cutting. Needless to say that removing the cutouts is child's play afterwards.
I made window frames out of 160 material, too. The narrowest strip you can get without tearing is 0.8mm wide. But - caution - never try to draw the openings with the rectangle function. The cutter will tear everything apart afterwards. Use the line function and draw all parallel lines ( e.g. for the strips ) in the same direction. Use corners as either a starting or a meeting point of the two lines you draw. The cutter will follow their direction afterwards.
Don't expect too much accuracy in small structures - +/- 0.1mm is achieved, but you see that clearly when the cut is only 2.5mm long.
here are some pics:



That's what it will look like after the cutter is through. Always use the other side as the surface to be viewed later.



These are the window frames, the openings are ~2.5x9mm. One can sand them a bit to make them square.



Here are the built-up windows. The building's sides were cut out of grey 320gr/m² architectural cardboard.



Here in 3D. As soon as the viewing distance is greater, the looks start to improve.

Last edited on Thu Oct 6th, 2016 12:17 pm by Helmut

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Here, greatly magnified, a super-glue reinforced frame that has been sanded. The dot spacing is 1/16"

I recommend to soak all those small structures in Cyanoacrylate, it prevents any warping and really makes it easier to touch up contours.
BTW, I noticed that with Edge I don't get the full menu when editing, the second line is not present. Firefox works out OK.

Last edited on Thu Oct 6th, 2016 03:33 pm by Helmut

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I tried 0.2mm styrene, too:



The left one is before the burrs were sanded off.



I think this one looks almost passable.
Only drawback is that you have to cut four times with maximum setting and slowest speed.

Jacques B
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Helmut, thank you for posting the progress of your TT scale building. I too am modelling TT scale ( metric gauge ) so I`m interested to see how it turns out.
I am using some 180 g/m2 HP presentation paper. Are you using the option of double cut ( cutting the same lines , polygons etc.. twice ) ?

Jacques B

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@Jacques
Yes, I cut them twice, which is sufficient. Some areas already fall off then.

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One of 62 factory windows that I cut, just set in place in a background building.



Material .017'' ''cover stock'' The stuff that file folders are made from. Single cut, carbide knife set to protrude about .025'' No numbers on carbide knife carrier. Heavy coat of Floquil to soak in and stiffen. Note that there is some fuzz in corners, mainly. It will have to be sanded before instillation. The carbide knifes are definitely the way to go.

Now why did I pick a window frame with a bunch of green paint slobbered onto the brick---Oh well, will look OK from 3' away.


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Hi Herb,
Nice work. :2t: Sure beats cutting them all out by hand, huh? :bg:

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@Herr Bert
so you're responsible for me having ordered sets of 45° and 60° CB09 cutters in China!
That frame looks absolutely great. Now I hope that stuff will find its way to me pronto.

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Thanks guys!

There was NO WAY that I could, or would, cut that many window sash out by hand!

Herb

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I'm glad the Curio finally submitted to you Herb. Pretty cool machine isn't it.

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Yes Ken--but if weren't for the help that you, Helmut, and others gave, I would have given up.

Yes, John it is an amazing machine. The most ''bang for the buck'' that a scratch builder can buy, in my opinion.

What some modelers offshore have achieved is simply mind boggling, and my simple mind doesn't boggle easily--nor do I spend enough time reading the (totally inadequate for a beginner) instructions, I have to admit.

If I can find some time today,  I am trying to draw some simple cornice trim for that building, on the Curio screen, as apposed to a scanned drawing that the window was.

Again, thanks to all for your help.


Herr Bert

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My mind boggles easily and this machine looks like something I need!  With a background of using CAD and vector imaging software this might be an easy transition from cutting things out by hand.

A lot more investigation into this machine is in order.

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Bob, for sure you want to review the differences between the models. The Curio was attractive to me because of the moving deck/platform that holds the material to be cut. It is very versatile.

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Here is my first complete Silhouette Portrait project.  TT scale, metric gauge shed for  the belgian  vicinal steam tramway.
Printed on HP matte brochure paper 180 g/sm,  thickness 0,23 mm
Silhouette portrait settings:blade depth 3 , speed 4cm/s,  ratchet blade 4, thickness 24, single cut.
The building was drawn using the Model Builder software.
Cutting and folding lines drawn using Inkscape software , file saved as  plain SVG  format ( to keep the dimensions unchanged, saving as   inkscape SVG format will scale by 0,8 ) . From the Inkscape manual: Plain SVG is the standard SVG without Inkscape-specific markup. Use Plain SVG for best interoperability with other applications that may be used to open the file.
The building is composed of 4 layers.

The steam tramway body is 3D printed

Jacques


Last edited on Wed Oct 12th, 2016 01:39 am by Jacques B

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This is a really neat machine and I am very, VERY glad that I probably won't be making any more structures on my layout or I might have to eat Ramen and rice for a while to be able to afford one! As Spock would say-"Fascinating!"

Woodie

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Like that tunnel mouth in the background!

Herb

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"Like that tunnel mouth in the background!"

I might try a paper version of the tunnel and the steam tramway body.

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Jacques B wrote:
Here is my first complete Silhouette Portrait project.  TT scale, metric gauge shed for  the belgian  vicinal steam tramway.
Printed on HP matte brochure paper 180 g/sm,  thickness 0,23 mm
Silhouette portrait settings:blade depth 3 , speed 4cm/s,  ratchet blade 4, thickness 24, single cut.
The building was drawn using the Model Builder software.
Cutting and folding lines drawn using Inkscape software , file saved as  plain SVG  format ( to keep the dimensions unchanged, saving as   inkscape SVG format will scale by 0,8 ) . From the Inkscape manual: Plain SVG is the standard SVG without Inkscape-specific markup. Use Plain SVG for best interoperability with other applications that may be used to open the file.
The building is composed of 4 layers.

The steam tramway body is 3D printed

Jacques




Nice work Jacques! Thanks for posting the 'how-to' information with it also.

Did you print directly from Inkscape or did you import it into Studio? I am guessing that you did import it. If so, could you share the file here?

Last edited on Wed Oct 12th, 2016 05:02 pm by NevadaBlue

Jacques B
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Thank you Ken for the kind words.
The procedure is as follows:

1) I draw and print a rectangular section of brick wall using the Model Builder software.
Of course you can download and print some free brick textures
2) Start the Silhouette Studio software
3)Insert the printed brick texture sheet in the scanner.
4) Import the brick texture in the Silhouette Studio software using the File-scan menu. We now have a .studio3 file contining the brick texture layer

5) We now have to create a 2nd layer with the cutting lines.
We have several options:
5a) use the silhouette studio software
5b) import a .dxf file drawn with Autocad $$$ using File-Merge menu
5c) If we upgrade to Silhouette Studio Designer edition, import a .svg file using the File-Merge menu ( my case )

6) Add the registration marks with the Silhouette-Registration Marks menu

7) Print the .studio3 file containing the brick texture layer,cutting layer and registration marks.

Insert the printed sheet in the cutter and ... cut.


I'll be glad to share my .svg files but there might be some copyright infringment if I share the Model Builder texture files . Is there any atorney on this forum ?

Jacques

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If I build a 2nd version of the engine shed there is room for improvment:
Use pastel chalk to hide the seams where the paper ends at the corners of model
Calibrate the scanner so the bricks are red and not ... pink
weathering

Jacques

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In order to test the option of importing .pdf files in the Silhouette Studio Designer version  (I am not a Silhouette shareholder  ) I downloaded  a free building from Scale Scenes  http://scalescenes.com/product/r024-weighbridge-or-coal-office/

Import that .pdf file in Silhouette Portrait:
File-Merge

In the new opened window, select the resolution  ( dpi ) , select  "Import as Vector"  , UNcheck  Group , click on the " Import " button  and...  by miracle all the cutting and scoring lines  are there.

I changed the cutting lines color to red.






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I purchased a CB09 blade holder and 5 blades on Ebay from the  joycelijane seller. The items were promptly shipped .So far I tested the 45 degrees blade and it works as described.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Graphtec-CB09-Blade-Holder-blades-for-Vinyl-Plotter-Cutter-30-45-60-blades-/172016793628?var=470889087295

Jacques

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Just for kicks, having two hours' spare time for designing, cutting, and glueing, I put a roof on that lean-to:

Attachment: Hausfront1.jpg (Downloaded 46 times)

Last edited on Thu Oct 13th, 2016 08:17 pm by Helmut

Jacques B
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Well done Helmut, will you add some external details, such as windows sils to improve the 3D look ?

Helmut
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@Jacques,
like this you mean?

Attachment: Hausfront2.jpg (Downloaded 93 times)

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Yes Helmut, like that.
Jacques

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Helmut

The layering concept works very well, and I like what you have done with it.

I'm waiting for someone to make a laminated card model of, say, a steel passenger car. with the rivet heads embossed with the Sihouette.

I'm still trying to learn how to draw on the machine, without, I must admit, much success. The link that you gave about turning a JPG file into a GIF seems to work, but for some reason I'm having problems replicating a basic shape in a line, so that it looks (and cuts--but I haven't got to that point) like one continuous piece.

Herr Bert

Jacques B
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Herb, google
A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

Jacques

Last edited on Sat Oct 15th, 2016 04:25 pm by Jacques B

Helmut
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@Herb
From what I've read embossing is only reasonably possible with the Curio ( which in turn offers only half the working area of the Cameo ).
A comprehensive guide is here. There's coach sides and houses  - very in-depth coverage.

And if you follow this link, you get all the advice how to scribe brass sheet. A little issaid about rivets, too.

Last edited on Sat Oct 15th, 2016 05:25 pm by Helmut

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Somehow Firefox and the gallery function do not like each other, so just an attachment to show how I gouged out bricks on Bristol Board in TT scale ( 1x2x0.6mm with 0.1mm mortar layer )

Attachment: TT-Mauerwerk.jpg (Downloaded 67 times)

Helmut
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This evening I played around with plastics on my portrait cutter. It doesn't like 0,3mm stock, you can only scribe it and cut through with a knife. Not that pleasing, so I tried thinner material. And there it was -success with the settings for Coverstock on 0,15mm Plastic sheet.
The dot spacing is 1mm, so that upper horizontal brace is just 0.5mm wide.
Structures that small are almost impossible to cut in cardstock.

Attachment: Fenstertest_Plastik.jpg (Downloaded 42 times)

Cor V
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i have played with thin polyester

this is used for making technical drawings etc.

nice stuf and you can make fine cuts in it, attached some pictures from a shelf i made with it



here you can see the small cuts , the thicknes off the material
thats makes it posible to fit them like this together
and yes the battery is an AA or penlight:bg: (true scale)


Last edited on Wed Dec 14th, 2016 09:55 pm by Cor V

Lee B
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I have read plenty of UK-based model train magazines over the years and I have seen paper/card structure come up many times there.
My major question has always been one of warping. In a damp climate like that (and where I live, in the Pacific Northwest), wouldn't a cardboard structure warp out of shape eventually? How well would they hold up over time?

Cor V
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i have no idee how it will react on high moisture, but a polyester as wat i use has not so much effect i think
and the new cutter can do thikker materials, mayby also thin plastic
for that part it's try and error.
Cor

Helmut
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You can use lacquer to impregnate cardboard - when I was a boy I built a whole boat model that way and it withstood all the tests and trials in real water I carried out with it. Small parts can be impregnated and stiffened by super glue - my window frames are al treated with it.

Herb Kephart
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Helmut--
There are times when the old ways still work well, and this is one of them. I would rather work with card -- multiple ply Strathmore© available in art supply stores -- than most other materials--but I have used old cereal boxes, when nothing else was available. It is my material of choice for structures.

Bill Clouser (a name familiar to modelers in the 50's and 60's) built a interurban model for the Smithsonian this way. He was a true craftsman.


Herb

Salada
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Lee,

Use a lacquer as Helmut suggests. Any solvent based resin where the carrier evaporates leaving an impregnated resin in the cardboard works almost indefinitely in my experience. I usually use shellac in methyl alcohol but there are other, more modern but more expensive similar treatments intended as preservative base coats for external joinery. Many of my 'models' are built of cardboard cereal packets or similar. If you make a mistake, throw it away & start again.

Helmut :    I've never used superglue for reinforcing small cardboard parts.

Michael

Tony M
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Hi Micheal , I use a quick drying wood glue got to watch it and not use too much as  the cardboard will go soft I mainly use the 1mm thick craft sheet cardboard on my Boing 737 fuselarges. First attemp wasn't so crash hot second one much better , I built the fuselarges in sections had trouble linning up the  tail section, next model be  built in one whole fuselarge, in HO scale 1/87th, can't buy a plastic model in that scale too exspensive to cut up, make a good train load and the 737's still make their first journey by train. Have you heard of Sydney Central station, I am modelling that building think it  might be too big to build out of cardboard, you can see it on Google Earth, the width I am not modelling to scale to big cutting it back will still look great when finished.
Hot weekend coming up in the low 40's be drawing  my second station building modelled on the East Perth Terminal where the Ipdian Pacific ends her journey.

Tony from down under

Last edited on Wed Dec 28th, 2016 10:24 pm by Tony M

Helmut
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Hi all,
as usual when another module meeting comes close, activities start to become frenzy. During the last four days, working ~ 4hrs. a day, I replaced one of the 'temporary' ( well....) cardboard building  mockups on my module by a more substantial model made with the help of a Silhouette Curio. I used the CAD files for the mockups, and detailed them where I had better ideas.
P.S.
I liked the roof of the unloader so much that I cannot resist posting a photo of it, too.

Sorry boys, as there is only one attachment possible, I put the pictures in the gallery. But when trying to incorporate them in my post, ( Whatever the theme is ) both under Edge and Firefox I get a system message "your browser doesn't support this operation" - nuts. Think I have to wait it out

Attachment: Silo_fertig.jpg (Downloaded 29 times)

Last edited on Sun Apr 16th, 2017 05:02 pm by Helmut

Helmut
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A view of the roof.

Attachment: Anbau_2.jpg (Downloaded 28 times)

Tony M
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Hi Helmut, thank you I am not the only one having the same issue as you are when posting pics on the forum,  I have found a way around it as I too have Edge and have tried Chrome same thing but was surprised you have trouble with Firefox.

What you need to do is join a photo sharing mob that has the formats to change the photo to a link (URL) my son told me about imgar very popular service especially in the US free to join , took a bit of time to get used to it,

If you want to go this way I can take you through setting up, you can go to technical help and I have a topic on this and you can post and many pics you like.

Love the building you scratch built using a cad programme, I am modelling Sydney Central station building and it have a lot of the larger fancy bricks, I  know a bloke that scratch built SC in N scale brick by brick took him 7 years, I am building  SC in HO scale cut back version.

Warming up in Germany, I have family connections from Germany.

Tony from Down under

Last edited on Sun Apr 16th, 2017 10:03 pm by Tony M

oztrainz
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Hi Helmut,
Please keep the attachments coming. More photos please.
That is a superb replacement, and the your roof is exquisite.:2t: 

Now I know that you used the Curio for the shingles. Were they laid individually or as so many rows of shingles as a sheet? What material did you uses as the raw feed for your Curio? I'm curious  :)

Helmut
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@oz
You can use both the Portrait and the Curio for the job. The shed I showed earlier in this thread was completely cut on the Portrait. A single row of shingles consists of light or dark grey 160g/m² colour paper. I composed that in Silhouette's program, going up to a .01mm resolution in order to get the right angle for the edges.

Attachment: Schindelreihe.jpg (Downloaded 13 times)

Last edited on Mon Apr 17th, 2017 08:13 pm by Helmut

Si.
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Hi Helmut.


I presume that you are using Windows-10 ?

An update by Microsoft to Windows-10 around 1st January 2017 has been an issue.

Try this ...



- - - - - - -



Go to your Freerails Gallery

In your Gallery window click on the photo you want to Post

The photo will then be enlarged on your screen

Now ... Right-Click ... a drop down menu will appear

From this drop down menu ... click on 'COPY IMAGE'


Now ... go to the Freerails Reply Window open in another tab

Place your cursor where you want your photo to appear

Then you need to Right-Click again ... another drop down menu will appear

From this drop down menu ... click on 'PASTE IMAGE'


The photo you want to Post from your Gallery should now be in the Reply Window.

Simply repeat the above sequence to add more photos to your Post



- - - - - - -



It seems that an update by Microsoft to Windows-10 ...

... has meant that the previous method of clicking on a Thumbnail ...

... having pressed the 'G' button in the Reply Window ...

... is no longer possible for Windows-10 users.



Si.

Helmut
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Testing Si's advice:


Now, that's the workaround for the 'improvements' Microsoft has put into WIN10. I used WIN7 until a few days ago, and the problem doesn't exist there.
BTW- what you see is the ramp surface, made of 40cm² tiles ( a common size here in Germany ), scaled to TT dimensions of 3.33mm²
@Si: :bow: :bow:

Last edited on Mon Apr 17th, 2017 09:12 pm by Helmut

Tony M
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Hi Helmut and Si, that shingles you are talking about is it the same as slate rock the British use for roofing nice indeed what you have achieved can you print larger bricks , on our roofing we have roof tiles, the roof framing has to built to take the weight.

Nice work on the  walk way, what is the building you are modelling used for.
Hi Si when we had the anniversary update win10 what stuffed me up from accessing the G button for the gallery and yeah there is a big update due in May wonder what damage it will do.

How was your Easter head to the coast for the four days, I spent a couple of days working on the layout getting closer to the big day., pics to follow after todays effort.


Tony from down under.




Si.
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Hi Helmut :wave:


Thanks, I'm pleased it worked.

I believe Microsoft may have removed support ...

... for a tiny little bit of code in the Data-1 software.

Although precisely what ? is unknown.


I started a new Thread about this, in the 'Photo Posting' Forum.

Hopefully the Members with this Windows-10 issue will see it there & use the fix.


NICE paper-cutting BTW !


:moose:


Si.

Tony M
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Hi Helmut, bingo what Si just said does work and you now can post more than one photo go to the new thread in Photo posting I did a test run hands up to Si:2t:.
Keep the great work up what scale are you modelling
Tony from down under

Helmut
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@Tony M
The building is a grain elevator in TT ( 1:120 ) scale.
Re tiles - the plain concrete tiles are easy to model. To scribe and cut, the Curio has two toolheads that can be assigned to different line colours. So you can use a scribing tool where there must be seams  etc., and the cutter to cut out the whole array. Clay tiles are sometimes different, fishscale is easy, but grooved pantiles need strings of yarn glued in parallel on the roof-face first, and cutouts in thin paper that adapt to the contour.
Large bricks are no problem with the abilities of the software that comes with each Silhouette model.

Kitbash0n30
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Salada wrote: Use a lacquer as Helmut suggests. Any solvent based resin where the carrier evaporates leaving an impregnated resin in the cardboard works almost indefinitely in my experience. I usually use shellac in methyl alcohol ...For me, lacquer causes far less paper warping than shellac does.  I use Minwax clear brushing lacquer, usually gloss since it seems to give a harder finish and makes it easier to see coverage. For shellac it is Zinsser clear. Both in quart cans.
I know from the 1:1 scale wooden boat crowd that dry shellac resin flakes can be bought in bulk and mixed to desired thickness from watery to pasty.

Tony M
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Hi Helmut, grain elevator makes a very nice scene indeed  and lots of shunting fun, I have  set of plans for a HO scale of a modern grain elevator will have a go in building it, they are constructed out of concrete  easier to model.
Tony from down under.

Cor V
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why stick to paper, with the curio you can cut styrene  these parts are 0,5mm works  for me

Last edited on Thu Apr 20th, 2017 11:28 am by Cor V

Herb Kephart
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Helmut

Getting ready to tend to seriously ill wife, who is coming home from hospital, so I have fallen behind with FreeRails-

Is the wall brick a commercial product? I don't see how I could make something like that (different height [of protrusion] bricks) with my Curio.

Herb

Helmut
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@Herb
That brickwork is "Faller" # 222559 (intended for N scale, but actually just right for TT )

Brickwork - you can make it by gouging bristol board like I did below. The dimensions are exact for TT scale -2.1mmx0.9mm and a 0.1 mm mortar layer. But this is only for rather small detailed areas IMHO. Honestly, the plotter wouldnt mind- it just takes some time to finish. That particular specimen was made on a Portrait. I used it to simulate old, partially crumbling work. The three-dimensional surface comes out when you rub off the fuzz left from gouging with an abrasive sponge

Last edited on Thu Apr 27th, 2017 07:11 am by Helmut


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