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Jacques B
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As the prototype I selected the house where I was born in Montfort, Belgium.


The flat structure has 4 layers :-

Glass
Window frames and door
Stone wall
Relief details





Jacques B
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First I drew the front wall section.
The stones were drawn one by one.

The pencil drawing was then scanned to produce a '.JPG file' that was directly imported in the 'Silhouette Studio' software, supplied with the Silhouette Portrait cutter.


 

NevadaBlue
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Excellent Jacques.
I know that we will be watching this with great interest.
I like that house a lot and could see a version of it being built here in Nevada.


Jacques B
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Using the 'Silhouette Studio' software, the 5 openings to cut in the wall were located.
The '.studio3 file' was sent to the printer.

The printout of the stone wall, the 5 openings and 3 registration marks to guide the optical system, was then glued to the mat.
The mat was introduced into the cutter and the 5 openings were cut.

I now have a layer with the printed stone wall and the 5 openings cut.

The same '.studio3 file' was used to erase the stones and draw the door and 3 windows at the locations where openings were cut.
The arched portal opening was located and the file was printed.
It was sent to the cutter to cut the arched portal.

A third layer was made for the stone details, and those were cut by the same process.

I added a clear styrene layer for the glass window panes.





Jacques B
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The final picture show the 4 layers better.





Jacques B
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Another  version of the house, made using model builder software.

Where I scanned 3 different layers.





Herb Kephart
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Jacques

Was the photo of the real building reversed?
I'm wondering why the model is the opposite ''hand''

Herb


Helmut
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@Jacques

The edges of the openings look a bit fuzzy, as if cut by a blunt knife, as do the windows and door frames.
This look is a bit in contrary to what I've read abut the Silhouette's performance so far.
Did you use the heaviest paper possible?


Lest I forget

A link to Pendon's paper modeling howtos.

I had the pleasure of talking to the late Mr. Ireland about his techniques.
A very informative talk that was.
With the Silhouette, one can transfer the painstaking steps into the program's care.


Cor V
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I prefer to use coloured paper thru and thru.

That way you prevent the white paper you can see on the windows.

Cor


Lee B
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Paper modeling is a big thing in the UK.
I often read British model magazines for 'out of the box thinking' as they do things you never see in US magazines.
I've seen some amazing work with paper siding for stone and brick done in those cases.
I am waiting to see what you accomplish here.
It looks good so far!


chasv
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On the other side of the pond they have been pealing the paper off foam core and scribing stone or brick or rock,
and making buildings out of it that are 3D and don't have to cast them.


Jacques B
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NevadaBlue wrote:
Excellent Jacques.
I know that several of us will be watching this with great interest.
I like that house a lot and could see a version of it being built here in Nevada.


Thank you Ken for the kind words.

Yes that house is really beautiful and the stones come from a quarry located ... on the other side of the back yard fence.
Weird place.


Jacques B
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Herb Kephart wrote:  
Was the photo of the real building reversed?
I'm wondering why the model is the opposite ''hand''


Herb,

The building was "mirrored' because it is located at the front edge of the layout,
and it was the only way to increase the track radius so a covered wagon can get inside the brewery.
The 2nd reason is that a brewery vessel will be visible from a large  window located at the side of the building.





Jacques B
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Pic of the brewing vessel





Jacques B
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Helmut wrote: @Jacques

The edges of the openings look a bit fuzzy, as if cut by a blunt knife, as do the windows ' and door frames.
This look is a bit in contrary to what I've read abut the Silhouette's performance so far.
Did you use the heaviest paper possible?


Lest I forget

A link to Pendon's paper modeling howtos.

I had the pleasure of talking to the late Mr. Ireland about his techniques.
A very informative talk that was.
With the Silhouette, one can transfer the painstaking steps into the program's care.


Helmut,

First thank for the link to that great Pendon Museum layout.

I agree, on the "pencil drawn" version the edges  looks fuzzy.
I cut the same building drawn using Model Builder software  ( see Page-1 ) and the edges look better.
I'll post  a picture tomorrow.

And of course the close-up  exaggerates the defects.
So as you, I suspect a blunt knife because I was able to cut cleanly 0.010" styrene.
I'll post another pic tomorrow.

I start to like the Silhouette Portrait and to learn how to use it.
It is very accurate the double-cut is perfect.
It does a better job than my 67 years old eyesight, my Optovisor and my no. 11 Exacto knife   :)

Here is a picture at "normal" distance view





Jacques B
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Cor V wrote:

I prefer to use coloured paper thru and thru.

That way you prevent the white paper you can see on the windows.

Cor


Thank you Cor for the suggestion.

It is not clear to me what you mean.
In our case do you suggest that I should have cut the windows using light brown paper,
so there is no white paper edge showing on the windows ?


Cor V
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Yes, that's what I meant.
Now you can see the white where the paper is cut.

I will try to post some of the things I made with my cutter.

Cor


Jacques B
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Lee B wrote:

Paper modeling is a big thing in the UK.
I often read British model magazines for 'out of the box thinking' as they do things you never see in US magazines.
I've seen some amazing work with paper siding for stone and brick done in those cases.
I am waiting to see what you accomplish here.
It looks good so far!


Thank you Lee for the kind words.

I agree, for whatever reason paper modelling is underestimated in North and South America.

( I have some railroad modelers friends in Brazil )


Jacques B
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Cor,

It would be interesting if you can post a few pictures and explanations of your work using the paper cutting machine.


Jacques B
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chasv wrote:
On the other side of the pond they have been pealing the paper off foam core and scribing stone or brick or rock,
and making buildings out of it that are 3D and don't have to cast them


Charles,

I tried that too.
It is fine for large scales.
I tried to scribe cobblestones for a road in TT scale ( 1/120 ) but the foam texture is too big.


Jacques B
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I'm a homebrewer and a homebaker.
The first thing I tried with the Silhouette cutter is to cut a stencil to sift some flour and decorate the bread.
The stencil was cut in 0.010" Plastruct styrene and as one can see on the picture the cut is quite clean.

The knife was brand new.
The pressure was set to maximum.
I had to finish the cut with a No. 11 Exacto blade.
The  silhouette was set to make 2 passes for the cut.





Jacques B
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To compare ( you'll be the judges ) the windows of the pencil version and the windows of the Model Builder version.

Both were printed on HP matte brochure paper  48 lb or 180g/m2 0.23 mm thick.





NevadaBlue
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I think the building looks fine.
Of course, if you wanted to, you could color any paper edges with a marker.
That's what I use.

I think the house can become a workshop.
I must remember this thread when I get some modeling time again.


Jacques B
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Thank you Ken for the tip of using a marker to hide the white paper edge.
The Model Builder Project Ideas booklet suggests using colored pastel chalk.


NevadaBlue
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Jacques,

We (my wife and I, she is quite an artist) have a selection of markers from children's Crayola markers to her fancy ink and paint markers.
I've found that a set of inexpensive felt tip colored markers gives me a good selection for coloring edges to match or contrast as needed.


Helmut
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Gents,

I cannot resist to show you the results of my trials in TT scale.
I bought this cutter (Silhouette Portrait) to speed up the creation of buildings on my modules.

What I found out so far:

Instead of attaching 160gr/m² cardboard to the cutting mat,
you can also tape it on the edges to a sheet of bristol board and use that as support during cutting.
Needless to say that removing the cutouts is child's play afterwards.

I made window frames out of 160 material, too.
The narrowest strip you can get without tearing is 0.8mm wide.
But - caution - never try to draw the openings with the rectangle function.
The cutter will tear everything apart afterwards.
Use the line function and draw all parallel lines ( e.g. for the strips ) in the same direction.
Use corners as either a starting or a meeting point of the two lines you draw.
The cutter will follow their direction afterwards.

Don't expect too much accuracy in small structures - +/- 0.1mm is achieved,
but you see that clearly when the cut is only 2.5mm long.

Here are some pics:





That's what it will look like after the cutter is through.
Always use the other side as the surface to be viewed later.





These are the window frames, the openings are ~2.5x9mm.
One can sand them a bit to make them square.





Here are the built-up windows.
The building's sides were cut out of grey 320gr/m² architectural cardboard.





Here in 3D.
As soon as the viewing distance is greater, the looks start to improve.


Helmut
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Here, greatly magnified, a super-glue reinforced frame that has been sanded.
The dot spacing is 1/16"





I recommend to soak all those small structures in Cyanoacrylate,
it prevents any warping and really makes it easier to touch up contours.

BTW, I noticed that with Edge I don't get the full menu when editing, the second line is not present.
Firefox works out OK.


Helmut
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I tried 0.2mm styrene, too:





The left one is before the burrs were sanded off.





I think this one looks almost passable.
Only drawback is that you have to cut four times with maximum setting and slowest speed.


Jacques B
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Helmut,

Thank you for posting the progress of your TT scale building.
I too am modelling TT scale ( metric gauge ) so I`m interested to see how it turns out.

I am using some 180 g/m2 HP presentation paper.
Are you using the option of double cut ( cutting the same lines, polygons etc.. twice ) ?

Jacques B


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@Jacques

Yes, I cut them twice, which is sufficient.
Some areas already fall off then.


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One of 62 factory windows that I cut, just set in place in a background building.



Material .017'' ''cover stock'' The stuff that file folders are made from.
Single cut, carbide knife set to protrude about .025''
No numbers on carbide knife carrier.
Heavy coat of Floquil to soak in and stiffen.
Note that there is some fuzz in corners, mainly.
It will have to be sanded before instillation.
The carbide knifes are definitely the way to go.

Now why did I pick a window frame with a bunch of green paint slobbered onto the brick.
Oh well, will look OK from 3' away.


Herb


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Hi Herb,
Nice work. :2t:
Sure beats cutting them all out by hand, huh? :bg:


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@Herr Bert

So you're responsible for me having ordered sets of 45° and 60° CB09 cutters in China!
That frame looks absolutely great.
Now I hope that stuff will find its way to me pronto.


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Thanks guys!

There was NO WAY that I could, or would, cut that many window sash out by hand!

Herb

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I'm glad the Curio finally submitted to you Herb. Pretty cool machine isn't it.

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Yes Ken--but if it weren't for the help that you, Helmut, and others gave, I would have given up.

Yes, John it is an amazing machine.
The most ''bang for the buck'' that a scratch builder can buy, in my opinion.

What some modelers offshore have achieved is simply mind boggling, and my simple mind doesn't boggle easily,
nor do I spend enough time reading the (totally inadequate for a beginner) instructions, I have to admit.

If I can find some time today,
I am trying to draw some simple cornice trim for that building, on the Curio screen,
as apposed to a scanned drawing that the window was.

Again, thanks to all for your help.


Herr Bert


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My mind boggles easily and this machine looks like something I need!

With a background of using CAD and vector imaging software this might be an easy transition from cutting things out by hand.

A lot more investigation into this machine is in order.


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Bob, for sure you want to review the differences between the models.
The Curio was attractive to me because of the moving deck/platform that holds the material to be cut.
It is very versatile.


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Here is my first complete Silhouette Portrait project.
TT scale, metric gauge shed for the Belgian vicinal steam tramway.

Printed on HP matte brochure paper 180 g/sm,  thickness 0.23 mm
Silhouette portrait settings: blade depth 3, speed 4cm/s,  ratchet blade 4, thickness 24, single cut.

The building was drawn using the Model Builder software.
Cutting and folding lines drawn using Inkscape software, file saved as plain SVG  format,
( to keep the dimensions unchanged, saving as inkscape SVG format will scale by 0.8 )
From the Inkscape manual: Plain SVG is the standard SVG without Inkscape-specific markup.
Use Plain SVG for best interoperability with other applications that may be used to open the file.

The building is composed of 4 layers.

The steam tramway body is 3D printed.


Jacques





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This is a really neat machine and I am very, VERY glad that I probably won't be making any more structures on my layout or I might have to eat Ramen and rice for a while to be able to afford one! As Spock would say-"Fascinating!"

Woodie

Jacques B
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Herb Kephart
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Like that tunnel mouth in the background!

Herb

Jacques B
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"Like that tunnel mouth in the background!"

I might try a paper version of the tunnel and the steam tramway body.

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Jacques B wrote:
Here is my first complete Silhouette Portrait project.
TT scale, metric gauge shed.


Nice work Jacques!

Thanks for posting the 'how-to' information with it also.

Did you print directly from Inkscape or did you import it into Studio?
I am guessing that you did import it.
If so, could you share the file here?


Jacques B
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Thank you Ken for the kind words.
The procedure is as follows:

1) I draw and print a rectangular section of brick wall using the Model Builder software.
Of course you can download and print some free brick textures.
2) Start the Silhouette Studio software.
3) Insert the printed brick texture sheet in the scanner.
4) Import the brick texture in the Silhouette Studio software using the File-scan menu.
We now have a .studio3 file containing the brick texture layer.

5) We now have to create a 2nd layer with the cutting lines.
We have several options:
5a) Use the silhouette studio software.
5b) Import a .dxf file drawn with Autocad $$$ using File-Merge menu.
5c) If we upgrade to Silhouette Studio Designer edition, import a .svg file using the File-Merge menu ( my case )

6) Add the registration marks with the Silhouette-Registration Marks menu.

7) Print the .studio3 file containing the brick texture layer, cutting layer and registration marks.

Insert the printed sheet in the cutter and ... cut.


I'll be glad to share my .svg files,
but there might be some copyright infringement if I share the Model Builder texture files.
Is there any attorney on this forum ?


Jacques


Jacques B
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If I build a 2nd version of the engine shed there is room for improvment:

Use pastel chalk to hide the seams where the paper ends at the corners of model.
Calibrate the scanner so the bricks are red and not ... pink.
Weathering.


Jacques


Jacques B
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In order to test the option of importing .pdf files in the Silhouette Studio Designer version (I am not a Silhouette shareholder )
I downloaded  a free building from Scale Scenes

http://scalescenes.com/product/r024-weighbridge-or-coal-office/

Import that .pdf file in Silhouette Portrait:
File-Merge

In the new opened window, select the resolution ( dpi ), select "Import as Vector", UNcheck  Group, click on the " Import " button,
and by miracle all the cutting and scoring lines are there.

I changed the cutting lines color to red.





Jacques B
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I purchased a CB09 blade holder and 5 blades on Ebay from the joycelijane seller.
The items were promptly shipped.
So far I tested the 45 degrees blade and it works as described.


Jacques


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Just for kicks, having two hours' spare time for designing, cutting, and glueing, I put a roof on that lean-to:

Attachment: Hausfront1.jpg (Downloaded 70 times)

Last edited on Fri Oct 14th, 2016 12:17 am by Helmut

Jacques B
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Well done Helmut, will you add some external details, such as windows sils to improve the 3D look ?

Helmut
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@Jacques,
like this you mean?

Attachment: Hausfront2.jpg (Downloaded 129 times)

Jacques B
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Yes Helmut, like that.
Jacques

Herb Kephart
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Helmut

The layering concept works very well, and I like what you have done with it.

I'm waiting for someone to make a laminated card model of, say, a steel passenger car. with the rivet heads embossed with the Sihouette.

I'm still trying to learn how to draw on the machine, without, I must admit, much success.
The link that you gave about turning a JPG file into a GIF seems to work,
but for some reason I'm having problems replicating a basic shape in a line,
so that it looks (and cuts--but I haven't got to that point) like one continuous piece.

Herr Bert


Jacques B
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Herb, google
A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

Jacques

Last edited on Sat Oct 15th, 2016 08:25 pm by Jacques B

Helmut
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@Herb

From what I've read embossing is only reasonably possible with the Curio
( which in turn offers only half the working area of the Cameo ).

A comprehensive guide is here.

There's coach sides and houses  - very in-depth coverage.

And if you follow this link, you get all the advice how to scribe brass sheet.
A little is said about rivets, too.


Helmut
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An attachment to show how I gouged out bricks on Bristol Board in TT scale ( 1x2x0.6mm with 0.1mm mortar layer )


Attachment: TT-Mauerwerk.jpg (Downloaded 102 times)

Helmut
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This evening I played around with plastics on my portrait cutter.
It doesn't like 0,3mm stock, you can only scribe it and cut through with a knife.
Not that pleasing, so I tried thinner material.
And there it was - success with the settings for Coverstock on 0,15mm Plastic sheet.
The dot spacing is 1mm, so that upper horizontal brace is just 0.5mm wide.
Structures that small are almost impossible to cut in cardstock.


Attachment: Fenstertest_Plastik.jpg (Downloaded 77 times)

Cor V
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I have played with thin polyester.

This is used for making technical drawings etc.

Nice stuff and you can make fine cuts in it.

Attached some pictures from a shelf I made with it.





Here you can see the small cuts, the thickness of the material.





That makes it possible to fit them like this together.





And yes the battery is an AA or penlight  :bg:  (true scale)








Lee B
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I have read plenty of UK-based model train magazines over the years,
and I have seen paper/card structure come up many times there.

My major question has always been one of warping.
In a damp climate like that (and where I live, in the Pacific Northwest),
wouldn't a cardboard structure warp out of shape eventually?

How well would they hold up over time?


Cor V
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I have no idea how it will react on high moisture, but a polyester as what I use has not so much effect I think.
And the new cutter can do thicker materials, maybe also thin plastic.
For that part it's try and error.

Cor

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You can use lacquer to impregnate cardboard.
When I was a boy I built a whole boat model that way and it withstood all the tests and trials in real water I carried out with it.
Small parts can be impregnated and stiffened by super glue - my window frames are all treated with it.


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Helmut--

There are times when the old ways still work well, and this is one of them.
I would rather work with card -- multiple ply Strathmore© available in art supply stores -- than most other materials.
But I have used old cereal boxes, when nothing else was available.
It is my material of choice for structures.

Bill Clouser (a name familiar to modelers in the 50's and 60's) built a interurban model for the Smithsonian this way.
He was a true craftsman.


Herb


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Lee,

Use a lacquer as Helmut suggests.
Any solvent based resin where the carrier evaporates leaving an impregnated resin in the cardboard works almost indefinitely in my experience.
I usually use shellac in methyl alcohol,
but there are other more modern but more expensive similar treatments intended as preservative base coats for external joinery.
Many of my 'models' are built of cardboard cereal packets or similar.
If you make a mistake, throw it away & start again.

Helmut,  I've never used superglue for reinforcing small cardboard parts.

Michael


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Hi Micheal,

I use a quick drying wood glue, got to watch it and not use too much as the cardboard will go soft.
I mainly use the 1mm thick craft sheet cardboard on my Boeing 737 fuselarges.
First attempt wasn't so crash hot, second one much better.
I built the fuselarges in sections, had trouble lining up the  tail section, next model be  built in one whole fuselarge.

In HO scale 1/87th, can't buy a plastic model in that scale too expensive to cut up.
Make a good train load and the 737's still make their first journey by train.

Have you heard of Sydney Central station ?
I am modelling that building, think it might be too big to build out of cardboard.
You can see it on Google Earth.
The width I am not modelling to scale to big cutting it back will still look great when finished.

Hot weekend coming up in the low 40's.
Be drawing my second station building modelled on the East Perth Terminal where the Indian Pacific ends her journey.

Tony from down under


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Hi all,

As usual when another module meeting comes close, activities start to become frenzy.
During the last four days, working ~ 4hrs. a day.
I replaced one of the 'temporary' (well...) cardboard building mockups on my module,
by a more substantial model made with the help of a Silhouette Curio.
I used the CAD files for the mockups, and detailed them where I had better ideas.
P.S.
I liked the roof of the unloader so much that I cannot resist posting a photo of it, too.


Attachment: Silo_fertig.jpg (Downloaded 212 times)

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A view of the roof.


Attachment: Anbau_2.jpg (Downloaded 64 times)

Tony M
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Love the building you scratch built using a cad program.
I am modelling Sydney Central station building and it have a lot of the larger fancy bricks.
I know a bloke that scratch built SC in N scale brick by brick, took him 7 years.
I am building SC in HO scale cut back version.

Warming up in Germany, I have family connections from Germany.

Tony from Down under


oztrainz
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Hi Helmut.

Keep the attachments coming.
More photos please.
That is a superb replacement, and the your roof is exquisite.:2t: 

Now I know that you used the Curio for the shingles.
Were they laid individually or as so many rows of shingles as a sheet?
What material did you uses as the raw feed for your Curio?

I'm curious  :)


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@oz

You can use both the Portrait and the Curio for the job.
The shed I showed earlier in this thread was completely cut on the Portrait.
A single row of shingles consists of light or dark grey 160g/m² colour paper.
I composed that in Silhouette's program, going up to a .01mm resolution in order to get the right angle for the edges.


Attachment: Schindelreihe.jpg (Downloaded 48 times)

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Hi Helmut.


I presume that you are using Windows-10 ?

An update by Microsoft to Windows-10 around 1st January 2017 has been an issue.

Try this ...



- - - - - - -



Go to your Freerails Gallery

In your Gallery window click on the photo you want to Post

The photo will then be enlarged on your screen

Now ... Right-Click ... a drop down menu will appear

From this drop down menu ... click on 'COPY IMAGE'


Now ... go to the Freerails Reply Window open in another tab

Place your cursor where you want your photo to appear

Then you need to Right-Click again ... another drop down menu will appear

From this drop down menu ... click on 'PASTE IMAGE'


The photo you want to Post from your Gallery should now be in the Reply Window.

Simply repeat the above sequence to add more photos to your Post



- - - - - - -



It seems that an update by Microsoft to Windows-10 ...

... has meant that the previous method of clicking on a Thumbnail ...

... having pressed the 'G' button in the Reply Window ...

... is no longer possible for Windows-10 users.



Si.

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Testing Si's advice:





Now, that's the workaround for the 'improvements' Microsoft has put into WIN10.
I used WIN7 until a few days ago, and the problem doesn't exist there.


BTW- what you see is the ramp surface, made of 40cm² tiles ( a common size here in Germany ), scaled to TT dimensions of 3.33mm²


@Si: :bow: :bow:


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Hi Helmut and Si.

That shingles you are talking about is it the same as slate rock the British use for roofing ?
Nice indeed what you have achieved can you print larger bricks.
On our roofing we have roof tiles, the roof framing has to be built to take the weight.

Nice work on the  walk way, what is the building you are modelling used for ?

How was your Easter head to the coast for the four days.
I spent a couple of days working on the layout getting closer to the big day.
Pics to follow after todays effort.

Tony from down under.


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Hi Helmut :wave:



Thanks, I'm pleased it worked.



I started a new Thread about this, in the 'Photo Posting' Forum.

Hopefully the Members with this 'Windows-10' issue, will see it there & use the fix.



NICE paper-cutting BTW !



:moose:



Si.


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Hi Helmut.

Bingo !
What Si. just said does work and you now can post more than one photo.
Go to the new thread in Photo posting.

I did a test run hands up to Si.  :2t:

Keep the great work up.
What scale are you modelling ?

Tony from down under


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@Tony M

The building is a grain elevator in TT ( 1:120 ) scale.

Re tiles - the plain concrete tiles are easy to model.
To scribe and cut, the Curio has two toolheads that can be assigned to different line colours.
So you can use a scribing tool where there must be seams  etc., and the cutter to cut out the whole array.
Clay tiles are sometimes different, fishscale is easy, but grooved pantiles need strings of yarn glued in parallel on the roof-face first,
and cutouts in thin paper that adapt to the contour.

Large bricks are no problem with the abilities of the software that comes with each Silhouette model.


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Salada wrote:
Use a lacquer as Helmut suggests.
Any solvent based resin where the carrier evaporates leaving an impregnated resin in the cardboard works almost indefinitely in my experience.
I usually use shellac in methyl alcohol


For me, lacquer causes far less paper warping than shellac does.
I use Minwax clear brushing lacquer, usually gloss since it seems to give a harder finish and makes it easier to see coverage.
For shellac it is Zinsser clear.
Both in quart cans.

I know from the 1:1 scale wooden boat crowd,
that dry shellac resin flakes can be bought in bulk and mixed to desired thickness from watery to pasty.


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Hi Helmut.

Grain elevator makes a very nice scene indeed and lots of shunting fun.
I have set of plans for a HO scale of a modern grain elevator.
Will have a go in building it, they are constructed out of concrete, easier to model.

Tony from down under.


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Why stick to paper ?

With the curio you can cut styrene.

These parts are 0.5mm

Works for me.








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Helmut

Getting ready to tend to seriously ill wife, who is coming home from hospital, so I have fallen behind with FreeRails-

Is the wall brick a commercial product?
I don't see how I could make something like that (different height [of protrusion] bricks) with my Curio.

Herb


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@Herb

That brickwork is "Faller" # 222559   ( intended for N scale, but actually just right for TT )

Brickwork - you can make it by gouging Bristol-Board like I did below.
The dimensions are exact for TT scale -2.1 x 0.9 mm and a 0.1 mm mortar layer.
But this is only for rather small detailed areas IMHO.
Honestly, the plotter wouldn't mind- it just takes some time to finish.
That particular specimen was made on a Portrait.
I used it to simulate old, partially crumbling work.
The three-dimensional surface comes out when you rub off the fuzz left from gouging with an abrasive sponge.





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Hi Helmut  :wave:



How's the paper cutting & building going ?





Nice structure !



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


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Another structure is in the line -but that 9.5" garden RR is taking all my time at the moment.
I have to pour concrete foundations for a segment- turntable plus shed.
Then there's the passenger car waiting to be built, those FX4's need attention, and of course, the daily chores.
Have to include the nights as 24 hrs per day seemingly don't suffice.


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Just by incident ( needed to cut a replacement gasket for my FX4 Taxi ) 
I found out that Abil/Elring gasket paper ( 0.25 & 0.5mm ) or other make 
are the best-suited materials for those fine structures like window frames, or a row of tiny holes. 
The grain structure is such that any fine detail will be cut out without fuzz, and the paper is soft enough to accommodate single cuts.



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" needed to cut a replacement gasket for my FX4 Taxi "



HOLY COW !  :shocked:

Helmut is  ...  TAXI DRIVER !!  ;)

( cue moody atmospheric soundtrack music )  :P



Not a bad lil' ol' run about Helmut.  :thumb:

Plenty of room for all the shopping.

Don't forget to overcharge The Mrs. on the way home !  [whack]



DIY engine-gaskets !  :shocked:
Now that's what I call PAPER CUTTIN' !!  :brill:



When you think of all the VAST number of cut-paper things out there in the world,

an  'automated X-acto knife'  must have 101 uses ! ?  L:



Anyone been cuttin' any paper recently ?  ???



:dt:



Si.


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Yes, I just cut up some old bills and junque mail.
I would have burned them but I ain't allowed to set fires now.

WCG



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Just for Si:





The background music should be from "Carry On Cabbie" of course.


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Hi Helmut  :wave:



What a GREAT photo of 'Northern Chief' & 'Helmuts Taxis' FB LT72H !  :thumb:



Looks like it might have probably been taken in the yard at New Romney ?  ???

Or is that near the turntable at Hythe ?  L:



That must have been an expensive fare, all the way from Germany !  $$$  :shocked:

I guess FB is for Friedberg & then some random letters/numbers ?



The big & tall 'Austin' actually makes No.2 look 'small' ...

... which strangely for a 15" gauge loco, they have never seemed that small to me.  :P



When the R.H.& D.R. (Romney Hythe & Dymchurch Railway) comes up, as it does from time to time ...

... I can smell the oily steam & coal smoke, coming out of my computer vents !  ;)



My Grandmothers home & back garden, was right next to the R.H.& D.R. 'mainline' ...

... just along the coast from Dymchurch, at St. Marys Bay.
Fond memories of summer holidays, the beach & TRAINS ! as a kid years ago.  :old dude:



My Dad had a regular 'Austin 1800' 4-door back then ...

... A big heavy thing, with ultra smooth suspension & seats like your living-room sofa !  :)



They don't make 'em like THAT any more.  :f:

I seem to recall he said it did about 15 miles to the gallon in town !!  :shocked:



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


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@Si


Yes, it's in New Romney where the coaling track is.


As for random letters/numbers - in principle, yes, but..

LT stands for London Taxi and '72 is the year the car was first licensed as JUL 270 K.

The 'H' stands for Vintage,

and a car so licensed enjoys some tax and traffic regulations' exemptions here in Germany.


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I was not satisfied with the relatively thin materials the Silhouette Portrait/Curio are able to cut in one pass.

For houses, I came across .040" fine-grain cardboard that seems to be preferentially used in architectural modelling.
It has two different surfaces, one is smooth and hard, the other slightly rough and softer.

When cutting the material, you must always start on the hard surface,
as doing it the other way round will clog your cutting tool with fuzz within seconds.

Of course you have to use several passes to cut such a thickness,
and the method I found working with my Curio is as follows:

General setting Coverstock ( 1cm/sec 33 ) with 0.2mm corner overlap.
This ensures your corners come out nice and not rounded.
I use the cutter inserts that allow for manual depth setting and are intended for cuts of up to 2mm.

1st cut single pass knife depth 7 (which is ~ 0.7mm depth).
2nd cut single pass knife depth 8.5.
3rd cut single pass knife depth 10.
4th cut double pass knife depth 11.

Here's the result:





The squares are 10x10mm².

The corresponding window-frames have been cut from 0.15mm Vinyl,
and are backed up with thin transparent sheet:





The macro mercilessly shows the imperfections,
but mind that the glazing bars are only ~0.4mm thick.
Unless you look at the model with a magnifier, you'll hardly notice them.

So much for now, I have some more models to make till October!


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Helmut,

Thank you for posting this.

I keep looking at the various paper cutting machines,
and wonder about their true usefulness in the hobby.

I've read everything from how wonderful,
to how utterly useless they are.

The macro shots of the windows say,
they are at least as good, as what I can accomplish by hand.

Tom


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They'll show their virtues e.g. when you have to make 20+ identical frames.

Depending on the material and dimensions you use,
the results can be even more pleasing.

Some thin (0.2mm) fine-grain paper on a freshly prepared cutting-mat,
will give very crisp cutouts.

The mat's grip matters much, especially when cutting fine structures.

An in-depth guide to the cutters' use can be found  here


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" I keep looking at the various paper cutting machines,
and wonder about their true usefulness in the hobby.

I've read everything from how wonderful,
to how utterly useless they are."


Hi Tom  :wave:


I am intrigued by Paper Cutting Machines ...

... which also can cut thin styrene, as Cor has shown, with his amazing coach.  :shocked:


Cors Freerails Coach Cuttin' Thread





Not really something which 3D-printing would do that well, possibly ...  ???

... custom coach mass-production looks quite doable, after drawing up a design.





Top cuttin' Cor !  :thumb:



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


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Si,

Cors' coach is really inspiring.

I keep looking at items like the coach, all of the stuff in the 3D printer thread,
and dreaming about building my own designs or some things that you can't find commercially.

I droll over paper-cutters, CNC mills and 3D printers.
Then, reality sets in.

The tool is still only as good as its input.
I can't even use track-planning software effectively, let alone CAD.

If I try to play hangman,
I need to get a proxy to do the drawing part.

I think I may spend some time playing with TinkerCAD or similar,
to see if one of these products is good enough to do the hard part for me.

Tom


slateworks
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Tom, I sympathise totally with you.

I'm not normally a negative person but I've tried to learn CAD,
even had a stab at Tinkercad which I was told was simple,
and failed miserably at that.

:bang:

So I look for alternative ways to produce things and I suppose the good thing is,
that it makes me endeavour to improve my hand marking and cutting skills!  




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slateworks wrote: 
Tom, I sympathise totally with you.

I'm not normally a negative person but I've tried to learn CAD,
even had a stab at Tinkercad which I was told was simple,
and failed miserably at that.


I doubt if you've ever done any programming Doug,
but OpenSCAD uses a programming language to do the drawing,
rather than dragging a mouse around the screen.

Although you need to learn the language,
it's more like giving the computer a written instruction,
like "Starting at this point, draw a rectangle (or cylinder etc.) this size".

Most model railway items can be drawn,
using what OpenSCAD calls Cubes, Cylinders and Spheres.

Of course it's still not easy, as you're trying to do something complicated,
but it's a different approach that may work for some people.


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Doug,

Your comment has me doing some thinking,
and a little soul-searching.

I wonder if the issue is aptitude or attitude or even ineptitude?
By all rights, I should be able to do simple CAD work.

I know the basic principles,
in fact I was one of the project managers that worked with SGI
(Silicon Graphics - their old headquarters is now the Googleplex or whatever they call it)
for another computer manufacturer. 

When I was in high school,
one of my shop teachers tried to convince me to go into drafting as a profession,
and even bought me a small drafting set (thank you Mr. Barry) that I still use occasionally.
He thought I had talent.

Hmmmm  L:

I think my issue may be desire.

As much as I like the idea of the results,
I've spent 46 years working with computers daily.

There is something satisfying about low/no tech solutions,
and it is actually one of the things that keeps me enthusiastic about MRR.

I'm even moving from DCC to RCBP,
non-powered track and manual turnout control.

But, you can't argue with the results of the CAD-based solutions.
Somethings are just plain difficult to scratch-build with enough rigidity to really work.
I've re-glued the interior mullions in my dry goods store three times now.
It's getting old.

Tom


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John (welcome from NGRM by the way!) and Tom, I suspect with me it's largely attitude.

I've never been a great book reader and prefer to do things with my hands,
and whilst I agree that one can't fault the superior results attainable with modern techniques,
the old fashioned hammer and chisel approach does seem to work for me!


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Doug,

I suspect it is mainly attitude for me as well
(although the aptitude is still suspect).

The main draw of these technologies for me, is the ability to make one piece designs,
where I would patch together multiple pieces, with the resulting reduction in rigidity.

What I think I am getting from this though, is maybe a part way solution.

I'm looking at adding resin-coated paper to my supplies, as my interior sashes are just plain junk.
I like what I get in laser kits that are done on RC paper, so it is worth a try manually.

I may learn how to resin cast as well, but by the time I'm done with that,
I wonder if a 3D printer wouldn't actually be less expensive and more practical.

I should start reading European MRR magazines,
since there are many techniques you use that are "foreign" to us yanks.

Since I've canceled almost all of my subscriptions to almost everything,
that isn't going to happen.

I go looking for driver sets and always end up at a UK site,
then get thoroughly confused, and go back to cutting wood for some building or other. 

The results you receive using a chisel and hammer are astounding.
If I were you, I wouldn't change a thing.

I look at some of the threads on here and marvel at the authenticity and detail.
Of course I wish I could do as well, maybe I can but I don't think I will.

I've decided that for me, a MRR is like an impressionist painting.

I'm purposely modeling a non-existent railroad with a western-movie motif,
and a totally implausible trackplan because it suits me.

I want it to look realistic but not real.
Kind of like Disneyland with some grime.

Tom   


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That's great Tom.


I've always said that Rule No.1 should apply - it's my railroad and I'll do it my way!


I do like your buildings which are up there with the best,

and I shall continue to watch developments with great interest.


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" There is something satisfying about low/no tech solutions,
and it is actually one of the things that keeps me enthusiastic about MRR."


Hi Tom  :wave:


I often get really grumpy ...  :f:
... if I have to grudgingly put down my Archimedes drill ...  :old dude:





... and reluctantly admit that for SOME things  :!:  electric could be a step forward.  :P



Having said that though ...

... how on Earth did we discover electricity ? 
Not using a computer !!  (_!_)



Perhaps Freerails needs an 'Anti-Technology Thread'.  :shocked:  ???  L:


We could ban all 'Techies' from Posting in it ...  (_!_)  ;)

... & only discuss  "low/no tech solutions" !  :rah:  :dt:



I guess you & Doug would sign up !  [toast]

I wonder if there are any other Luddites lurking around here ?  L:






;)



Si.


Tom Harbin
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Si. wrote:
Perhaps Freerails needs an 'Anti-Technology Thread'.  :shocked:  ???  L:


We could ban all 'Techies' from Posting in it ...  (_!_)  ;)

... & only discuss  "low/no tech solutions" !  :rah:  :dt:



I guess you & Doug would sign up !  [toast]

I wonder if there are any other Luddites lurking around here ?  L:


Si,

I think anyone that does MRR has to have a little Luddite in them.  :)

I'm not against technology, I just find that at times I prefer not to use it.
 
I'm still thinking about paper cutters, 3D printers (especially the LCD resin printers) laser cutters, CNC mills, etc.

But I spend a LOT of time on computers,
and find working with wood and foam and glue and paint ... kind of relaxing.

Chances are pretty good that I will end up investing in at least one of these higher-tech gizmos at some point,
because I'm a little tired of flimsy construction on small parts.

It would almost be worth it just to get usable inside window sashes.

Tom


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As for me, I do admit to using DCC and an electric drill with attachments,
but that's just for sharpening the chisel!

;)

I suppose guilt and conscience,
will force me to have another look at Tinkercad at some time.
 
Probably when I next run out of pencils or graph paper,
but if I even begin to understand it I reckon that will be a miracle!

:old dude:


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" But I spend a LOT of time on computers,
and find working with wood and foam and glue and paint ... kind of relaxing. "


Hi Tom  :wave:


I know exactly what you mean.  :boogie:


I need to CUT BACK on computer time ...

... NOT end up spending MORE TIME on them !  :time:


Whittling wood & Dremeling die-casting, is rewarding & very 'analog' !!  :mex:



:java: :moose: :dt:



Si.


Helmut
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Location: Friedberg, Germany
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OK, in Tenere they made incredible cave-paintings some time ago,
and I pay credit to all those who still cling to these techniques nowadays.

But this thread is about paper-cutting machines, CAD,
and now the newest, laser cutting.


Having seen a video on YouTube featuring a small 'Insma' 3000mW laser engraver/cutter,
they sell at Bangood for roughly 100 bucks, I ordered one,
which cost me 110€ +13.20€ customs.

It arrived today,
and I proudly present you the first window frames,
cut from 0.5mm architectural cardboard:





The windows are 1cm x 1cm in size.
This fine structure cannot be achieved with a cutter.

I still have to figure out how to set the correct '.dxf' file format,
the software that comes with it can manage.

It will lead to a better cut of the vertical lines.
The drawing it worked from was a standard '.bmp'.


Helmut
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A friend who is a master at building intricately detailed house models in TT scale from paper without any mechanical help,

finally gave in and asked me to make that rooftop decoration of a vintage house for him:





The material is 0.2mm heavy coloured paper.

The outer positioning frame will be removed later.

Total dimension is 10.5 x 16.5mm²



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