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O Gauge in the Australian Indoors and Outdoors
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 Posted: Fri Mar 24th, 2017 03:43 am
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Robert Comerford
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Hi, will keep a look out on your thread for your wiring exploits Tony.
The track is held down with screws, you can't nail into my top surface Tony.

There are people out there running battery/rc in N gauge locos. I built a battery powered r/c HO loco in the early 80's. It is however easier in the larger scales.

My layout runs with almost no maintenance year round. The track power is DCC and I can run locos as small and light as my X200 rail tractor on it reliably. The secret (if there is one) is the use of a little light machine oil or graphite on the rails. Saves all that faffing around charging batteries. :>)
The only thing that stops it is snow.

I do have a battery powered Lima 4F that is to be used to test the concept of a loco to take down to AMRA Sydney clubrooms. The layout there is 12/24V dc centre third rail and also uses coarser standards for their trackwork.
I intend to build a NSWGR loco for this purpose and am hoping I can equip it with a compromise wheel standard to run on both mine and the AMRA layout.

I also have a hybrid drive railmotor. Both these locos can be run in the snow.

The wooden structures I installed have suffered so lesson learnt, the styrene ones however have held up very well; however a big hailstone strike can take down almost anything!
cheers
BobC

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 Posted: Fri Mar 24th, 2017 04:28 am
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Robert Comerford
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p.s. Woodie if you are still watching. I meant to ask before if you had a separate radio for each of your engines or did like I did once when operating with crystal controlled gear and had an on/off switch, turning on the loco I wanted to run.
I have been across your former nice whimsical railway outdoors more than once.Sorry to see it had to go.
regards
BobC

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 Posted: Sat Mar 25th, 2017 01:18 pm
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Tony M
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Hi Bob, how was your Saturday run any trains, I had a great day in the electrical department finished the bus wiring on the second station module  pic to show how I do my bus wiring.
Be great of I could change all my locos to battery power no need for all that bus wiring, do you have to re-motor the loco as well, I have an O gauge clock work tank loco I am going to switch to battery, the loco be a it like the coffee pot steam  railmotor in SA and power the carriage bogie.  Going to buy new track as well run it inside the house on those hot rainy days .

Tony.
 

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 Posted: Sat Mar 25th, 2017 10:08 pm
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Robert Comerford
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No outdoor trains here at the moment Tony, raining on and off the last few days.
Changing motors should not be needed for most HO locos you are likely to come across. Some people install coreless motors to get the maximum run time out of the battery but that is not normally needed for HO. It is an expensive option.

My past outdoor ventures in HO showed me that battery/radio would save me a lot of wheel/track cleaning and would be needed to give me the reliability I expect.

BobC

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 Posted: Sat Mar 25th, 2017 11:47 pm
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Tony M
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Morning Bob, keeping an eye on the cyclone outside Townsville category 3 at the moment predicted to hit land full Tuesday at category 4 hope we get some good in out of it.

We are back to warm weather again 33 degrees today 35 Wednesday wash the car after brekkie and finish the wiring off in the afternoon on the first station module.

How much running time do you get out of the batters before a charge and do they charge up pretty quick.

I am thinking of radio controlling a slide control throttle or build a  new throttle using a servo to turn the nob, any ideas, then my son can run a train as well.

Tony.



Last edited on Sat Mar 25th, 2017 11:48 pm by Tony M

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 Posted: Sun Mar 26th, 2017 09:20 am
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Robert Comerford
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Battery run time can vary widely. In my installations I get over an hour. You might want to pose that question in the radio control folder.
But here is a not untypical scenario.
Say my HO engine pulls 200mA, I have a 3S 600mAH pack fitted.
In an ideal world that would be 3 hours running. let us say 2 hours easily.
If you ask a question in the rc folder you will get some real world answers.


First question might be ..what is your son's range of control?
centre off knob only
knob and switch
touchpad
joystick

BobC

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 Posted: Sun Mar 26th, 2017 10:32 am
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Robert Comerford
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There are the Talking Electronics kits still available as one option.
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/AllKitsWithPics/AllKitsWithPics.html

The walkaround controller is designed to work with a r/c tx/rx combo.

The (fixed) Throttle kit they do has been used on many layouts around the country. I once used one with a lead long enough to reach all around the layout room.
These are relatively simple kits.
cheers
BobC

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 Posted: Sun Mar 26th, 2017 11:26 am
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Tony M
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Hi Bob, I am not in a hurry to re-motor the O gauge clock work steamy wait till once my layout is up and running, will for sure head over to the radio guys.

My son doesn't have a lot can just manage to work the mouse and key board  playing games, his electric wheel chair has a joy stick is very sensitive, I heard you can  adjust the joy stick in the remote. The next step is go computer but it would be easier with DCC., am thinking the  rotary nob control be better than slide with the servo.

I was at the hobby shop on Friday and noticed they replaced the step with a ramp, getting my son up there to try a remote control, I don't have a van now, bugger need to win the lotto Toyota HI-ace's cost $80,000 rigged out with a hoist and new flooring, have to rely on maxi taxies.

How I love to go DCC , as my son could use the lap top Wi-Fi and using the Engine driver app controlled by a mouse, can only dream.

Tony.


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 Posted: Sun Mar 26th, 2017 11:33 am
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Tony M
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Thanks Bob, I will look into the rc / tx/rx combo, thanks for the link lots of electronic kits to choose from I am after church bells .
What size wires do you use for your bus wires will have to hose size wires, I am nearly out of wire, Jay-car don't have any wire in between the thicker stuff is too big, won't fit the plugs I use.
Tony.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 26th, 2017 09:57 pm
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Robert Comerford
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The main problem with radio control of the track is now lack of support for such systems. Most of those manufacturers have ceased production due to the market move to DCC.
If your son can operate a pc mouse and you already have a laptop and the phone I would be surprised if DCC would be much different in price to other options.
There's never any need to chip dozens of locos. A couple is all you need to start. For systems without the capacity to run one dc loco (e.g. NCE) the layout can be switched back to a dc p/s to run a favourite unchipped loco occasionally. The NCE powercab or Digitrax Zephyr Xtra have usb interfaces available for them.

cheers
Bob

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