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Doctor G
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Hi,

The very helpful moderators have pointed out that my original thread about a mini logging layout has reached maximum capacity:old dude: and it is best to start a second volume. So this is the beginning of part TWO:2t:.

Here is a link to part one if you are interested as to how all this got started:rah::

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7241&forum_id=4

Doc Tom:wave:

Last edited on Wed Sep 14th, 2016 01:12 am by Doctor G

Si.
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Hi Doc.

You could have continued.
But the Thread had a technical problem.
It would not except any further additions.

A number of pt.IIs have had to be started following the server-crash.
Your pt.I should be perfectly OK though.
I checked it last night.

It's all viewable & linkable to in the normal way.
Just not able to create a new page.

:moose:

Si.

Keep up the good work Doc.
I know it's gonna be a goodun !

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Hello Doc,

Thanks to Super Si I can now thank you for your above reply re: holding screws etc. in Styrofoam.
"Liquid Nails" isn't available in the UK but we have supposedly equivalent "filled co-polymer acrylic" products as they are known such as "Gripfill", "Sticks Like Sh*t" etc.

Interestingly & worryingly they do not have a 100% reputation in the UK for sticking EPS type foams - apparently they never 'go off' (set) where air cannot penetrate between firmly packed EPS sheets. Hey-Ho, should have taken up golf instead.

Regards,               Michael

Doctor G
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Hi Michael,

I guess you can try an experiment sticking two scrap pieces of foam together with the UK product and see how well it holds.

I am about to venture in to uncharted waters as I am going to try a completely novel way of painting foam. I will definitely start on some practice scrap pieces.L:

Doc Tom

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Over the years, I have used epoxy to secure foam together and holding drywall screws in place. I use a 15 minute set time 2 part epoxy so I have some time to get everything together & right. The screws are driven in a ways, backed out, and the epoxy smeared on the threads and screwed back in...carefully and without too much torque! Yes, I also used Liquid Nails for foam but it seemed (to me) to be too thick and the pieces had a bit of a gap when joined. How do I hold foam together when gluing ? I may use some bamboo bbq skewers stuck in to hold things and maybe some masking tape for some applications. Everybody has their own way.

Woodie

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Michael,what's the point of golf,you get a ball ,hit it away as hard as you can,then go and find it (hopefully)in all types of weather
At least with model railroads(railways as we say in aus)you make some great progress or stuff ups,that at least you can fix or redesign.You become a master designer,plasterer,carpenter,electrician,gardener,landscaper and track layer.All these trades with poor pay ,but the rewards are great.Have you guys tried using PVA wood glue for the styrofoam,I have used it for years with no problems,just a thought.Peter.

Doctor G
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W C Greene wrote:
Over the years, I have used epoxy to secure foam together and holding drywall screws in place. I use a 15 minute set time 2 part epoxy so I have some time to get everything together & right. The screws are driven in a ways, backed out, and the epoxy smeared on the threads and screwed back in...carefully and without too much torque! Yes, I also used Liquid Nails for foam but it seemed (to me) to be too thick and the pieces had a bit of a gap when joined. How do I hold foam together when gluing ? I may use some bamboo bbq skewers stuck in to hold things and maybe some masking tape for some applications. Everybody has their own way.

Woodie


This is a very good idea woodie. I will have to try it sometime in the future. Thank you. Tom

Doctor G
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2foot6 wrote:
Michael,what's the point of golf,you get a ball ,hit it away as hard as you can,then go and find it (hopefully)in all types of weather
At least with model railroads(railways as we say in aus)you make some great progress or stuff ups,that at least you can fix or redesign.You become a master designer,plasterer,carpenter,electrician,gardener,landscaper and track layer.All these trades with poor pay ,but the rewards are great.Have you guys tried using PVA wood glue for the styrofoam,I have used it for years with no problems,just a thought.Peter.



Hello Peter. Yes, in the past I have used the wood glue with good results. Fortunately, there are several good adhesives for Styrofoam panels in model Railroad scenery. Doc Tom

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Hi Doc :wave:

I was looking at some stuff today & saw these.
I thought of you.
Dunno how cold it's gonna get at Kittom.
If it goes sub-zero these might come in handy !

:moose:

.

Attachment: Icicles.jpg (Downloaded 159 times)

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Michael has experimented with other hobby's, notably shrubbery pruning, with limited success. Perhaps we will see other efforts from him in the future. I hope so!!


Krash Kephart

Doctor G
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Si. wrote: Hi Doc :wave:

I was looking at some stuff today & saw these.
I thought of you.
Dunno how cold it's gonna get at Kittom.
If it goes sub-zero these might come in handy !

:moose:

.
Hi Si,

Those are great!!:glad:I saved the picture in my winter modeling ideas file. One of the beautiful sights here in Tennessee are the frozen "waterfalls" of ice and icicles arising from seeping water working its way through limestone and coming out on the cliff faces. I am looking to model this and these neat items from Busch may be perfect.

Thanks for sharing. Doc Tom

Doctor G
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I took a 12 day break from construction on the mini layout as we had two very special house guests. Father Emery Menard and Father Andre Augustin from our "twinned" St Jules Parish and Clinic in Haiti.



Of course, we did have some fun running my other mini layout "Ti Neg La" an On30 sugar cane hauler set in 1920 Haiti.

Here is the site of the Haiti train if you are interested.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22912

After a very enjoyable visit I had some time to venture back to the hills of Southern Kentucky and Northern Tennessee.



While I was itching to get in to more painting and scenery I went back to the mundane , but important task of wiring the layout.

Here on the inside of the lower electrical cabinet I wired a nice four pin connector to the leads that will bring power to the track and the juice for electrical accessories on the layout.





After splicing I had a cable and connector that would allow the layout to be removed from the electrical cabinet base and allow for portability.







Thanks again for looking. Doc Tom


Doctor G
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Okay. Time for the fun stuff. Let's do some rock painting.

But first, a disclaimer. This is the first time for me to use spray paint in coloring scenery.

As I mentioned at the beginning of the story I wanted to experiment with all new scenery
techniques on this mini layout. I learned about painting foam from this nice Internet video and thought I would give it a whirl.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpko5rxM9pI

As I learned, you have to use spray paint that is compatible with Styrofoam or so­ called "craft foam."

So I went to Hobby Lobby to get craft spray paint. I did have an anal sphincter tightening
moment when the nice clerk at Hobby Lobby said, “you should never use spray paint on
Styrofoam”.......... Even though it said it could be used on the can.



So I use an old modeler’s trick and experimented on a piece of scrap foam first. As you can see in the lower part of the pictures. It did not devolve into a blue blob so I knew I could proceed.



The first step is to spray on Black pigment. I elected to use Woodland Scenics Black pigment.




I mixed it with a little water and dish washing detergent and sprayed it on in the areas of
the mini that were meant to represent rocks.





After letting it dry overnight it was time to get out the "craft foam safe" spray paint and
paint the rocks. Interestingly, a variety of colors, including yellow, were used to paint the
rocks. Some of the spray paint I used also had texture that gave the model a crumbling
rock appearance.





I am happy to report that the blue foam did not dissolve and I think I have a fair
representation of Sandstone and Limestone.

Let me know what you think. Doc Tom


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Si.
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I think it's lookin' AWESOME Doc. !

Vertical scenery makes me dizzy...
...but I LOVE IT !!

I've heard good reports on the textured Krylon(TM)...
...but not used it for anything yet.

Sounds like you're pleased with the result.

:moose:

Doctor G
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Si. wrote: I think it's lookin' AWESOME Doc. !

Vertical scenery makes me dizzy...
...but I LOVE IT !!

I've heard good reports on the textured Krylon(TM)...
...but not used it for anything yet.

Sounds like you're pleased with the result.

:moose:
Thanks Si. Yes the textured Krylon worked well. I had to use it as it was the only "craft foam" safe spray paint in gray that I could find at the neighborhood DIY store (Lowes).

I used the vertical scenery to make this little layout look bigger.

Doc Tom;)

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Vertical scenery ROCKS !! Doc.

:moose:

Perhaps you could do a small Mt. Rushmore tribute !
( just kiddin' )

.

Attachment: mount-rushmore-national-memorial-south-dakota-usa_main.jpg (Downloaded 73 times)

Doctor G
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Si. wrote: Vertical scenery ROCKS !! Doc.

:moose:

Perhaps you could do a small Mt. Rushmore tribute !
( just kiddin' )

.
Hi Si,

Now that would really cause the eyes to "linger" looking at the mini layout.......but it might be difficult to carve in the blue foam.;)

Doc Tom

Doctor G
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Time for a little more color. The hills around here, as I noted earlier, are composed of limestone capped by sandstone.



It was time to bring some color to the sandstone I had carved from the blue foam. I dry brushed on umber,a variety of browns, orange and white.This was all blended by an India ink wash to try and represent sandstone rocks and ledges.










The tan brown areas on the layout are where "the forest floor" will be affixed later.



Let me know what you think.

In a few days I'll start working on some highlights on the limestone.



  Doc Tom



Last edited on Wed Sep 28th, 2016 01:03 am by Doctor G

Si.
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" Let me know what you think "

Hi Doc.

Thanks for the pix.
I am learning here.

Looking at your proto-photo ^^^ above.
It seems to me, at the moment...
...you have too many evenly-spaced vertical-fissures running full length top to bottom.

Thinking about it & looking at the proto-photo...
...makes me realise most rocks are horizontal layers.
Of course some are pushed upwards diagonaly...
...but don't have to be in many locations.

To me your horizontal lines look great.
Somehow the verticals could be more 'random' for want of a better word.

You're obviously gonna add snow, veg, etc. etc. yet though.
The painting looks like it's gonna be a very multi-layered job.

:moose:

Si.

Nice progress Doc.

Doctor G
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Hi Si,

Thanks for the careful observation. The vertical lines will be broken up with "ice falls" that occur here in the winter as water seeps through limestone. Might be hard to go back and recarve:bang::bang:

More to come. Tom

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Herb Kephart wrote:
Michael has experimented with other hobby's, notably shrubbery pruning, with limited success. Perhaps we will see other efforts from him in the future. I hope so!!


Krash Kephart


Very droll Mr K. I believe revenge is best served cold so you may have wait a while before you notice any ill effects.

Thanks to Woodie, Peter & Doc. I have successfully stuck together small scraps of Styrofoam (actually rigid PU foam) using PVA. Bonding x sq. ft. together is my real concern.

Regards, Michael

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Your India ink wash has really enlivened the '3D' appearance. That textured can stuff looks fine on sandstone but maybe less so on the limestone layers. Just sayin'.

Regards, Michael

ps: Excellent trees & foliage on your sugar cane diorama. Looks really tropical.

Doctor G
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Hi Michael,

Good eye. I wondered about the texture paint on the limestone too. Should be interesting to see after upcoming "dry brushing" with shades of gray.

Only "foam safe" spray paint at the local store had the texture in it and I gave it a whirl.:dope:

Stay tuned more pics in a few days. Glad you liked the Haiti layout.....a real departure from standard modeling practice.

Dr Tom

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Tonight I did some work with painting limestone on the "Kit Creek" side of the layout.





The tan brown areas are where the wintertime forest will be planted.

Thanks for your input. Doc Tom


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Well in the recent posts I went from a blue cube to some painted rocks. Now the layout looks like a camouflaged Aircraft Carrier with a flat deck. I need to bring some 3-D changes to the top of the layout.

To do that I will use some of the many scrap pieces of Blue Styrofoam leftover from the beginning of the construction. These will ultimately form small hills to break up the flat deck look.



These scrap pieces will be cut carved and fitted.



Before permanently fixing them to the layout I will adjust to allow for clearances of railroad equipment. This was something fairly difficult to do in the past with plaster scenery.





Thank you again for following along. Doc Tom


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Howdy Doc, this is really coming along nicely. The rockwork looks great. I'm with you, some more hills on top will really add to the scene. Keep on going.

Woodie

***BTW-I really love those little Heislers!***

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Yep! What he said!

Doctor G
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Thanks Woodie and NB (Ken). After the basics of the hill forms are created I will use tinted sculptamold to rough in the land forms further.

Last edited on Sun Oct 2nd, 2016 01:50 pm by Doctor G

Doctor G
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Thank you all for following along.

I have cut up the scrap Styrofoam and added it to the top of the mini layout. This hopefully will provide more of a 3-D effect.





This is a backwoods Railroad and I wanted the terrain to be rough and uneven.





After several weeks, this is the last of the Styrofoam I will have to cut, shape and glue to the layout.

Next up will be tinted sculptamold to provide more of the texture for the layout surface.

Doc Tom


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Looking good.

I can relate to the problem of getting scenery too close to the track. What little scenery exists on my layout is going to have to be ripped out and re-done.

Some for reasons of clearance.

Reg

Doctor G
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Reg H wrote: Looking good.

I can relate to the problem of getting scenery too close to the track. What little scenery exists on my layout is going to have to be ripped out and re-done.

Some for reasons of clearance.

Reg

My RR buddies here in Clarksville, Tennessee constantly rib me about too tight clearances on my model railroads. This one will be different because the scenery can be easily moved and adjusted. The hills are feather light.;)

Doc Tom

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It is not just model RR which has this problem, the prototype also had clearance. When the 3 Ft gauge Kaslo & Slocan Rly, built by the Great Northern in southern BC.
The line was built for the engines they had, being 2 Baldwin 2-6-0s. In 1897 the K&S acquired a OF 2-8-0 and RGS
Rotary #1. Besides having to remove rock cuts along the line, bridge #21 which was built on a shelf of Payne Bluff,
The bridge had an 700 to 800 Ft drop on one side and the cliff above rose 150 to 200Ft. The answer was to move the rails on the bridge to the outside of the bridge to provide clearance for the rotary to clear.
Hanging over this drop must have been an interesting experience for the Rotary operator.

I have walked this section of roadbed, somewhat like looking down into the Grand Canyon. To model the track would roughly mean it would be 28 to 32 FT above eye level
in O scale.

Doctor G
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That is a very dramatic bridge!!:thumb: Do you have access to any pictures of it?? Doc Tom

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I am back at work on the layout. I am using some techniques I found on the Internet.

I have carved out channels in the top of the Styrofoam for the electrical wiring. I created an electrical wiring harness and have placed it in the cutout channels. The wire is secured with construction adhesive. The channels will be filled with insulation foam when the wiring is complete.




I soldered ends of the wire harness to the Peco track joiners. This is a nifty way to power the rails. It helps avoid distorting the plastic ties as soldering directly to the rail would do.





The wiring harness was connected to the main power strips and happily the engine lit up and made those wonderful digital sounds.





Doc Tom

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Constructing the infrastructure. Burying the electrical grid.

This little layout needs electricity to power the little trains. To create the infrastructure for the electrical grid I first carved out channels in the blue Styrofoam panel. Appropriate wires were laid in this channel and secured with construction adhesive.





The next step was to use expanding insulation foam to fill in the channels and cover the wires.





The layout looks like it's being attacked by a fungating sporulating mold.



The excess foam is trimmed back with a serrated knife.



The basic tan/brown latex paint is applied overall and you can see the ends of wire sticking out of “the earth and mud.” Much like a new suburban subdivision.



Next up will be to apply the track and using sculptamold rough in the first layer of scenery texture.

Thanks for l king. Doc Tom

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Hello Doc,

If you have the time & inclination I would like to see some photos of this magic 'Sculptamold' stuff (largely unknown to those outside the U.S. ?) in use as a scenic top coat (?); how it is applied, worked etc.

Presumably it gives a better effect than sculpted styrofoam alone ?

Thanks, Michael

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Yes, I will be happy to provide this. Awaiting a 3 pound bag of the material and looking forward to working my hands in this again. Dr. Tom:thumb:

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Putting down some rails.

With the wires buried, it was time to lay down the On30 Peco track. This was done using construction adhesive to affix the track to the foam. I let the turnouts “float” to avoid any potential binding of their mechanisms.



On30 Peco "electrofrog" turnouts have some interesting wiring so that DCC Control can be used. Basically, it is placing insulated track connectors at the two sections of rail leaving from the frog.



With the track down it was time for some photos. Engineer Timmy poses with the hard-working Stearns Heisler.





He seems to have forgotten that this is very rural Tennessee/Kentucky and there are some strange creatures lurking about. Hopefully he will turn around soon and get the heck out of there!!



Doc Tom


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Let's play with some Sculptamold.

Years ago, I learned that scenery construction was basically color and texture, texture and color. One of the neatest materials to begin scenery with is Sculptamold. This clay-based modeling material comes dry in a large bag. You basically add a little water and mix and you have a nice easy to work material to create your scenery forms. It dries rockhard. It can be carved, drilled, sanded, and painted.




In the past, I would use this material and it would dry a uniform white color. For this project I learned that you can tint sculptamold using simple acrylic craft paints.



I used a disposable drink cup, threw in some sculptamold and added a few squirts of the acrylic craft paints.



A small amount of water is added and the mixture stirred with a craft stick. When it had the consistency of cottage cheese it was ready to be slumped on to the layout.





Here is a before shot with Styrofoam scraps providing additional fill for the contours of the layout.



Here is an after shot with the tinted sculptamold in place. The sculptamold also acts as a great adhesive for the placement of stumps.



This is a wonderful material and I would recommend it for your projects. Dr. Tom.

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Salada

Throw some very fine sawdust into some dry plaster and you will have something that acts like Sculptamold, at considerably less cost. Even coarser sawdust can be used, at the expense of the surface finish.

Herbert

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Herb Kephart wrote: Salada

Throw some very fine sawdust into some dry plaster and you will have something that acts like Sculptamold, at considerably less cost. Even coarser sawdust can be used, at the expense of the surface finish.

Herbert
That sounds like a low cost alternative. Fortunately, this is a small layout and not much of the commercial stuff is needed. Your idea would be grand for a large layout.:2t:

Doc Tom

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Hi Doc :wave:

Great looking scenery base !
Track down already as well !!

WAY TO GO !

Your lil' Heisler is a real cutey :bg:

:moose:

Si.

Nice idea with the spray foam.

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Hello Doc,

Thanks for your Sculptamold photos. In the last photo of your Post No 39 (where you have placed the tree stumps) did you apply the S-mood over the styrene scraps using a palette knife (or similar) or just pour it over ?

Ultra lightweight sparkle (Red Devil brand) is now finally available in the UK. Have you any experience of how sparkle compares to Sculptamold for the scenic top coat ?

Herb: thanks for suggesting that mix - finding eneough very fine sawdust might be difficult.

Regards, Michael

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Sparkle should be "Spackle"; damn spellcheque. Michael

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Sorry for the delays getting back to you....work and a hectic time around voting has put me behind.

The sculptamold is so thick like cottage cheese that it was just slumped in place using a craft stick. I then smoothed it over using the craft stick.

I do not think the spackle is similar to sculptamold. We have spacle compounds here that we use to cover walls and sheetrock. Much thinner stuff in consitenccy and not as much texture.

Here is what the dried sculptamold looks like on the layout 1 week later.





It is starting to get that "backwoods look" I have always liked.

Doc Tom

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The effect of the sculptamold looks great.
That's some nice scenery Doc.

Alwin

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Putting in dirt.

The Sculptamold took about a week to dry. The layout now has its first layer of scenery throughout. Successive layers of color and texture will be added to this.




The variety of Browns and Tans are the result of the variety of mixtures of the acrylic paints and Sculptamold as I prepared separate batches.





The layout is beginning to take on the wild and wooly atmosphere of a backwoods logging out fit.



There is even the first stick of wood now in play on this previously all foam creation.



Doc Tom

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Salada wrote:
Sparkle should be "Spackle"; damn spellcheque. Michael

I understand the man who invented auto-correct has passed away.

May he restaurant in piece.

Reg

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Stump City

Along the backwoods rail road right of way trees were cut and cleared to make way for the smoking woods beast. This resulted in a goodly number of tree stumps.

Cast in resin and white metal several dozen were planted in the tinted sculptamold before it dried.



Using acrylic paints and india ink washes the stumps were given some color.





With the completion of the stumps next step will be to paint the track.



Thanks for looking. Doc Tom

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Hello Doc,

That's the first example I've seen of Sculptamold in use - it looks impressively natural. No shrinkage gaps or cracking ?

Regards, Michael

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Salada wrote:
Hello Doc,

That's the first example I've seen of Sculptamold in use - it looks impressively natural. No shrinkage gaps or cracking ?

Regards, Michael


Hello Michael,

Not a bit of cracking. And this is the first layer of scenery. Next up will be real sifted dirt and ground up leaf cover, weeds etc....all set in wintertime.

I wondered how much it would cost for you to buy some Sculptamold in the USA and ship to London??

Doc Tom;)

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Hello again Doc,

More bucks than it' s worth !. Her Britannic Majesty's tax collectors view self imports of U.S. Origin as a bonanza.

Ah, so this is not the final finish coat, despite looking very good. I'll make sure to stay tuned !

Regards, Michael

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Hi Michael,
Can I suggest you check out the nearest art store for something similar?. They might be worth a shot.

Don't forget the graphite pencils while you are there.
:P

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Thanks John. Unfortunately decent art stores are going the same way as proper modelling shops over here; the fixed premises costs are killing them off in favour of the purveyors of cr*p coffee & cheap 'fashion' stores.

I am no way near to the scenery stage yet, for which I was thinking about hacked & carved styrofoam as a finished surface but Docs stuff looks good to me. Currently I have more basic problems to solve.

Regards, Michael

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Salada wrote:
Hello again Doc,

More bucks than it' s worth !. Her Britannic Majesty's tax collectors view self imports of U.S. Origin as a bonanza.

Ah, so this is not the final finish coat, despite looking very good. I'll make sure to stay tuned !

Regards, Michael


Sir Donald T. (self-knighted) wants to make the UK a prime trading partner....might help lower some of that tariff/tax stuff???:bg:

Doc Tom

Last edited on Mon Nov 14th, 2016 01:10 am by Doctor G

Salada
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Only "Sir" T ?
Surely he'd want a Lordship ?!

Regards, Michael

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Salada wrote: Only "Sir" T ?
Surely he'd want a Lordship ?!

Regards, Michael
Very GOOD:glad:

Doc Tom

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Sidetracked

Before taking brush in hand to paint rails, ties and spikes in a hopefully prototypically correct fashion, I decided to"Screw around" and kit mingle an”O” scale log donkey.



The sled is a resin kit from Wiseman model services. and the steam donkey Is from a RTR Bachmann On30 log loader.



Acrylic paint, acrylic paint washes, India ink/alcohol wash and acrylic dry brushing was used to paint the model.



Here is placement of the loader on the layout. Electrical wires coming up from the ground will be used to power an ITT sound module of a steam log loader at work. I am looking for any advice about these sound modules and how you used them on your layouts.



The painting experience has made me a little less fearful in painting the track and rails. Any ideas on track brush painting appreciated also. I want the track to be a prototypical model too.

Thanks for looking. Doc Tom

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I use brown paint on my rail. Since my track is handlaid I have the advantage of being able to paint the rail before laying it.

I have hand painted already laid rail. It is a little tedious.

I use whatever brownish paint I can find on sale at the local hardware store. Rail around here weathers from black (brand new) through various shades of brown, often with just a tinge of red.

I remember an article from many years ago (I will see if I can dig it up) in which the author spray painted the track in varying shades.

Actually, I found it. I will see if I can scan it and post if.

Reg

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I use brown paint on my rail. Since my track is handlaid I have the advantage of being able to paint the rail before laying it.

I have hand painted already laid rail. It is a little tedious.

I use whatever brownish paint I can find on sale at the local hardware store. Rail around here weathers from black (brand new) through various shades of brown, often with just a tinge of red.

I remember an article from many years ago (I will see if I can dig it up) in which the author spray painted the track in varying shades.

Actually, I found it. I will see if I can scan it and post if. He uses Floquil paints, which are no longer available, but the concept is still there.

Reg

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Reg H wrote:
I use brown paint on my rail. Since my track is handlaid I have the advantage of being able to paint the rail before laying it.

I have hand painted already laid rail. It is a little tedious.

I use whatever brownish paint I can find on sale at the local hardware store. Rail around here weathers from black (brand new) through various shades of brown, often with just a tinge of red.

I remember an article from many years ago (I will see if I can dig it up) in which the author spray painted the track in varying shades.

Actually, I found it. I will see if I can scan it and post if. He uses Floquil paints, which are no longer available, but the concept is still there.

Reg


Thanks for the help Reg. Looking forward to seeing that article. Tom:thumb:

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Hello Doc,

This is maybe my chance to help you ?. There is no fixed colour for rail or ties, it all depends on climate, location, type of timber etc. Also, the colours will vary from one stretch of track to another.

So for the High Desert areas of NV, AZ, NM etc. the rail will be more of a smooth grey mushroom and the ties will be a silvery grey-black. For wetter areas the rail will be more brown-dull red brown with orange/yellow overtones; the ties will be grey-dark brown (depending on the type of timber preservative. (photos to follow if I find them).

I hand-lay track on Real Wood (TM) ties so I tend to paint the rail first after soldering to widely spaced PCB's or, time allowing, I paint the whole rail then scrape off at the solder fixing points. I  pre-stain the wooden ties.  After assembling the whole shebang I go back and hand brush in any missed areas.

I use hand brushed oil/spirit based paints, firstly a standard commercial red oxide then varying tinting top coats according to location, age of the track. After gently scraping off any paint from the rail head I use a steel or nickel silver 'blacking' solution to take off the 'new' rail head colour. These blacking finishes are electrically conductive; as they are mostly based on selenium they are quite toxic when in liquid form - always wear gloves or wash hands immediately after any skin contact.

The rail finishes that I use :





My version of 'High Desert' rail colour for U.S. NG rail :



High Desert colours between coats; solder spot scaped off for PCB fixing :




Wetter, damper climate rail colours for my English colliery layout :



...and 'English Climate' tie colours :







High Desert rail & tie colours :

Below photo taken from D&RGW.net

Above photo near CA-Mexican border, note grey-silver rail colour.

Below photo, my version of CA, AZ, NV tie colours :




Personally, I think it best to have slight colour variations every few inches when building model track.

All photos by Salada except as indicated,

Regards,      Michael
  

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I never thought of blackening the rail head.

How does that affect track cleaning? More often? Less often? Reblacken after track cleaning?

On the article I mentioned, it appeared in one of the model railroad magazines (Model Railroader, I think), so there may be a copyright issue there.

Reg

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Hi Doc Tom and all,

For the O scale standard gauge tracks on Corrimal, I used Tamiya "Deck Linoleum" colour in a spray can. At the time there was nothing on the modules apart from the track. With some suitable masking "cardboard" to protect immediately around the rails. this might be an option. It was a very quick way to get painted rails. The sleepers (ties) were then "treated" with a Woodland Scenic "weathered wood" paint pen  





It's a pity you can't see the sleepers under all that spilt coal and dropped dust :P

As far as the rail head goes check out the following photo from my Yallah layout.



This rail was last cleaned several years ago and graphite was applied to the rail head and inner gauge face of the rails with a graphite pencil.  The foot of the rail has weathered to the usual weathered nickel silver off-yellow, but the rail head maintains a grey-silvery colour of active rails. Graphite appears to significantly reduce the effect of oxidation on the rail head and also reduces the frequency of track cleaning.   

I hope that this combined approach might work for you, 

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Reg H wrote:
How does that affect track cleaning? More often? Less often? Reblacken after track cleaning?

 


Good question Reg. I have no idea because I haven't had eneough track for a long eneough time to require any track cleaning. In theory track should require less cleaning but in practice, who knows ?

John :  That's a great under the loading chute photo, excellent.

Regards,     Michael

Last edited on Mon Nov 21st, 2016 08:20 pm by Salada

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Salada wrote:
...
John :  That's a great under the loading chute photo, excellent.

Regards,     Michael

Hi Michael,
It will make it to the Corrimal thread eventually when the Screens Building build comes to the top of the pile of backlogged build posts.

Last edited on Mon Nov 21st, 2016 08:50 pm by oztrainz

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Wow!!:glad: What an incredible response to my request about track painting. You guys:pimp: are the greatest!!.:rah:

I really appreciate the input and expertise. I will try to use some of these ideas as I proceed with painting the On30 Peco track.

Thank you so much. Doc Tom

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I've seen (but haven't done) pastel weathering for the railroad ties.  If you want to get a little more depth, or have faded and worn ties, that might be an option for you.

BTW, this is a great thread, lots of ideas!

--James:thumb:

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" You guys are the greatest !!."

" this is a great thread, lots of ideas ! "

Couldn't agree more...
...you took the words right out of my chellspecer !!

It could be snowing here soon Doc...
...I'll send you some snaps !

snow:moose:

Si.

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Hi Doc Tom & all,
I found an earlier photo of the O standard-gauge track prior to ballasting but after spraying with Tamiya "Deck Linoleum" spray pack.


Another trick I forgot to mention is to scrape the railhead and inner gauge face of the railhead clean with an old credit card before the paint fully hardens off. The paint peels off easily and can be vacuumed up later.

I hope that this helps give you a better idea of how the Tamiya spray method comes up,

Doctor G
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oztrainz wrote:
Hi Doc Tom & all,
I found an earlier photo of the O standard-gauge track prior to ballasting but after spraying with Tamiya "Deck Linoleum" spray pack.


Another trick I forgot to mention is to scrape the railhead and inner gauge face of the railhead clean with an old credit card before the paint fully hardens off. The paint peels off easily and can be vacuumed up later.

I hope that this helps give you a better idea of how the Tamiya spray method comes up,


Thank you John. These are some good ideas. Dr. Tom

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Well this was tedious.
The track is all in and wired and it was time to paint it. In the past, working with a large layout I would go with the basic flat brown from a rattle can. On this mini layout I wanted to do something different and in fact make the track an individual model with character. Therefore the rails were painted with mixtures of gray, Brown, and a reddish-brown. The ties were then individually painted with varying shades of gray and brown. An India ink and alcohol wash was used to bring all the colors together and to highlight shadows. Dry brushing using an off white/tan was then done. The track was carefully cleaned and electrical continuity assured and we got some photos.







Above is "the after shot."



Above is "the before shot."

Let me know what you think. Thanks for looking..Doc Tom



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Playing in dirt.

Happy New Year!

For the last couple of weeks I have been working in and playing with dirt. Previous layouts have used large quantities of Woodland Scenics ground foam and ballast. This mini layout is going to be different. I'm using natural materials as much as I can to get the"Backwoods" feel I am after.

So I want out in the backyard dug up some dirt, Twigs and other debris from the mulch pile. While my wife was away I dried out the dirt in the kitchen oven. An interesting aroma was noted. 

The dirt and twigs and debris were attached to the sculptamold under layer using white glue and wet water. The rough sculptamold had considerable"tooth” and held everything in place nicely.



Here are some pictures of the track laid directly in dirt. This is such a low budget backwoods operation that mules and horses graded the line and the ties were placed directly on the dirt roadbed. Not a bit of ballast material was used.







Let me know what you all think.

Doc Tom



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Hmmm..where did your company find the money for those fancy ties then? Methinks the cost per ton is higher than that of gravel.
Honestly - very fine modelbuilding!

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Helmut wrote: Hmmm..where did your company find the money for those fancy ties then? Methinks the cost per ton is higher than that of gravel.
Honestly - very fine modelbuilding!

Thanks Helmut. I thought the Peco ties looked kind of rustic???:shocked::shocked:  Maybe not so much. Anyways the Peco track works well. Perhaps I should bury them a little more in the dirt.:us:
Tom

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A primitive logging bridge.



My Kittom logging outfit Is a simple low budget logging railroad operation. Established at the turn of the 20th Century the railroad was built with saws, axes , mules , horses and human power.

When confronted with crossing creeks and hollows and gorges the construction crews made use of the materials at hand and their woodworking skills.

Here are a few pictures of prototype primitive logging bridges. When there was no piledriver to construct bents for bridges a large tree was felled and notched to provide a base for the upright parts of a bent.




The beams for the track ties were shaped using froes, adzes and draw knives.







To model this primitive bridge I used natural materials including straight twigs. The twigs were given two flat edges using a #11 Exacto knife very carefully.











The base log was notched like the prototype to accept the upright logs that would become the bent.



I fashioned a cardboard jig to build the bent and the individual parts were affixed and glued together with carpenter’s wood glue.



A log retaining wall was fashioned at the beginning of the bridge



I placed braces and used NBW castings to secure the upright logs in the bents.



Everything fit given the irregular shapes of the twigs in use and the bridge was strong enough to carry the weight of a train.



Thanks for L   KING. Doc Tom


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Very nice work Dr Tom - Definitely worthy of :moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:


L: Now if I can get the cliffs I'm working on to look 1/2 as good :w:

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oztrainz wrote: Very nice work Dr Tom - Definitely worthy of :moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:


L: Now if I can get the cliffs I'm working on to look 1/2 as good :w:

Thank you John. I will be looking forward to some pics of your cliff and the layout.
Doc Tom

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That definitely catches the flavor.  
Sometimes the old timers would just fill the gully with cribbed logs.  
Around here the smaller logs suitable for bridge construction weren't worth much at the mill so were readily available fodder for filling in the low spots. 
Of course what, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, were called  "pecker poles" are now prime timber.
 Reg

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Reg H wrote: That definitely catches the flavor.  
Sometimes the old timers would just fill the gully with cribbed logs.  
Around here the smaller logs suitable for bridge construction weren't worth much at the mill so were readily available fodder for filling in the low spots. 
Of course what, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, were called  "pecker poles" are now prime timber.
 Reg

Hi Reg,

Back about 20 years ago I used "pecker poles" to build this log crib bridge and fill in a gully on my HO "stick hauler."


Doc Tom

 

 

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Neat bridge and trestle structures and I do like the way the terrain is developing, very natural looking.

Last edited on Tue Jan 10th, 2017 10:18 am by slateworks

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Yes, sir.  That is the way they did it.
I have photos.
Reg

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Reg H wrote: Yes, sir.  That is the way they did it.Indeed!


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Great looking pictures .Thanks for sharing. Am laying Peco On30 track and turnouts on a new layout. Have been advised to make some modifications to the turnouts for better operations in DCC that will insure problem free running for years to come. Have you modified your Peco Electrofrog turnouts as many others have or left them as they are. Peco says they are designed to work out of the package in DCC. Many others say after a bit, there will be problems with the turnouts. Do some modifications now and eliminate those problems that could occur down the road is their advice. Would appreciate how you installed your Peco On30 turnouts and wired them for your operation of same. Thanks Michael

Doctor G
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Michael P wrote: Great looking pictures .Thanks for sharing. Am laying Peco On30 track and turnouts on a new layout. Have been advised to make some modifications to the turnouts for better operations in DCC that will insure problem free running for years to come. Have you modified your Peco Electrofrog turnouts as many others have or left them as they are. Peco says they are designed to work out of the package in DCC. Many others say after a bit, there will be problems with the turnouts. Do some modifications now and eliminate those problems that could occur down the road is their advice. Would appreciate how you installed your Peco On30 turnouts and wired them for your operation of same. Thanks Michael
Hi Michael,Peco electrofrog turnouts work great right out of the box and require no modification to the turnout at all for DCC use.. What is required is careful WIRING. The Peco folks have good diagrams with the turnouts and also online on how to do this.
I am very impressed with their product line and love the fact that my DCC/ sound equipped Heisler can crawl through the turnouts without missing a beat or a chuff.
Doc Tom:2t:

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Lee B wrote: Reg H wrote: Yes, sir.  That is the way they did it.Indeed!



That is a very cool picture that I will save for more prototypical inspiration. I love the resourcefulness of these early day loggers!!!!  Dr Tom:2t: 

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Great to hear. No shorts or pauses . Good stuff. How did you wire your turnouts if you would care to share. Thanks Michael

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Michael P wrote: Great to hear. No shorts or pauses . Good stuff. How did you wire your turnouts if you would care to share. Thanks Michael
Here is what I learned from the Peco website:" All PECO turnouts are suitable for use on a DCC layout, and to ensure that short-circuits cannot occur and also so that turnouts are not 'power-routing',insulated rail-joiners must be placed on both frog rails of every point........ If you still get stuck on where to place the track power feeds and rail breaks we can help. Just send us a clear drawing of your layout plan, which allows us enough space to add the track power feeds and rail breaks, and we will mark these on for you. Please enclose an SAE for return of your plan."
    Basically two insulated joiners are placed at the  ends of the two rails  leaving from the frog. That is all I did and it worked well.:old dude: Hope this helps.
    Doc Tom

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    Thank you Doc Tom . I already had that part figured out. I have seen and read of many others who have modified the Peco Electrofrog On30 turnouts for use in DCC. There are many discussions online regarding the modification of Electrofrog turnouts. It seems this is necessary for a lot of people who have the turnouts installed for many years and problems occur after a period of time. To eliminate these problems in the future they advise modifying the turnout. They also advise powering the frog with a Tam Valley Frog Juicer to power the frog. The juicer also provides correct polarity to the frog itself.
    How do you throw your turnouts... By hand or using a switch. The juicer is supposed to also eliminate having to use a switch and you can hand throw the turnout using the slide bar that comes on a Peco turnout. Have not tried any of these myself to this point. Thanks for your information to date. May just send you a diagram. I live in Canada and don't have an US stamp . Will try something in a post or email. Thanks again Michael

    Doctor G
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    Michael P wrote: Thank you Doc Tom . I already had that part figured out. I have seen and read of many others who have modified the Peco Electrofrog On30 turnouts for use in DCC. There are many discussions online regarding the modification of Electrofrog turnouts. It seems this is necessary for a lot of people who have the turnouts installed for many years and problems occur after a period of time. To eliminate these problems in the future they advise modifying the turnout. They also advise powering the frog with a Tam Valley Frog Juicer to power the frog. The juicer also provides correct polarity to the frog itself.
    How do you throw your turnouts... By hand or using a switch. The juicer is supposed to also eliminate having to use a switch and you can hand throw the turnout using the slide bar that comes on a Peco turnout. Have not tried any of these myself to this point. Thanks for your information to date. May just send you a diagram. I live in Canada and don't have an US stamp . Will try something in a post or email. Thanks again Michael

    I had read and viewed the videos on modifying the turnouts but took the simple approach and so far no problems. Good point about years down the road though. 
    I throw the points by hand but am looking at prototype pictures from 1910 to see what they used back then and will possibly use old style switchstands, "harp" etc..
    Interesting discussion I wonder what other experiences with Peco turnouts modelers have had???L:
    Doc tom

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    Hi Doc


    I had to EDIT out a sepia logging photo you Posted.

    It was marked with the Company Name of a firm that sell art-prints.


    It is very important not to Post these company or copyright type images on Freerails.

    If you have other logging photos from this source, they shouldn't be Posted in Threads or the Gallery.


    :moose:


    Si.

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    Thanks, I did not realize I had posted a copyrighted picture. Sorry. Tom

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    In between the prep work and an actual medical mission team to Haiti and the clinical work at the rural health center in Kentucky I have squeezed in some modeling time.

    I have completed the pole/Log bents for the rustic wooden trestle over the rivulet feeding into Kit Creek. The scenery is in the dirt layer It will be overlaid with leaves, Shrubs and eventually trees will be planted.





    I also spent a few weeks of spare time painting Bachmann on30 log cars for this backwoods operation. They started out looking like this.



    And ended up looking like this.




    Thanks for looking. All comments welcome.

    Doc Tom

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    Hi Tom. Great job on that log car. The bridge looks great too.

    Alwin

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    Alwin wrote: Hi Tom. Great job on that log car. The bridge looks great too.

    Alwin

    Thanks Alwin. It was done using acrylic paint, acrylic washes, and an india ink wash. It did  take some time to disassemble the cars and wait for all the multiple layers of paint/washes to dry.......but I like how they turned out.:old dude:

    Doc Tom

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    Hi Doc :wave:


    Lookin' good ! :cool:


    I really like your ground-cover around the bridge.


    It def. looks 'logged'


    :moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:


    Si.

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    Thanks to Si for the :moose:.

    Here's a little more:

    Further up the line on the "Woods" side of the mini layout is the log landing of the original Kittom Lumber Company.




    Constructed of cut logs it provides a handy storage for the timber heading down line to the log dump.




    This is in the first "dirt layer “……..more scenic details to follow.



    I am starting research for an early 20th century log loader and rigging for the site. If you have any prototype pictures from 1900– 1920 I would love to take a gander.



    Thanks for your interest. Doc Tom



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    I think that the morphing of the log car is super!


    Herb

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    Herb Kephart wrote: I think that the morphing of the log car is super!


    Herb

    Thanks Herb. Here is a little more progress:

    Finally have all the dirt down and bonded to the "woods" side of the mini layout.



    Started planting some grass in the dirt....nice product from Silfor. Will later dry brush in some brown variety as this is supposed to be wintertime.



    Thanks for looking. Tom

    Doctor G
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    A very warm spring day today with plenty of sunshine. It was time to take the mini layout outside for some pictures.





    Here is an overall shot of both sides. This was difficult to do in the work shed as I could not get back far enough to include the whole layout.
    Here is the" Woods Side" with the log landing. The first cover of dirt and debris has been applied.




    Here is the side that will have the rail camp and the log dump. Scenery has not been started on this side yet.



    I think I need to get going on some backdrops the styrofoam blue is really sticking out!

    Doc Tom


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    Very impressive Dr.G! Have to say this is going to be one of the most realistic logging railroads I've ever seen, as most of the ROW was dirt and mud as you've depicted. My "vision" for a logging railway is far more sanitized, as is typical for most modellers I think. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product. I also love what you did with the Bachmann OEM logging cars -- those turned out better than any kits I've seen.

    Last edited on Sun Apr 16th, 2017 03:10 pm by Gary I

    Si.
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    " I think I need to get going on some backdrops the styrofoam blue is really sticking out! "


    Hi Doc :wave:


    ' Kodachrome Blue ' as some photographers call it...

    ...just looks like a vintage colour-slide to me ! ;)


    I was thinking, what on earth ?

    Docs covered most of his nice rockwork up with logging slash !

    Then of course seeing the other side of the micro...

    ...I guess you're going to have those rocks fairly exposed.


    Can't quite believe you've glued all the slash & earth down ! :shocked:

    It all looks really 'loose'.


    Great stuff Doc. :thumb:


    :moose:


    Si.

    Doctor G
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    Gary I wrote: Very impressive Dr.G! Have to say this is going to be one of the most realistic logging railroads I've ever seen, as most of the ROW was dirt and mud as you've depicted. My "vision" for a logging railway is far more sanitized, as is typical for most modellers I think. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product. I also love what you did with the Bachmann OEM logging cars -- those turned out better than any kits I've seen.
    Thanks for the kind words Gary. I really wanted to depict this kind of scene on the mini logger:

    [img]http:// http://s542.photobucket.com/user/DrGrab/media/Kittom%20Lumber%20the%20Original/Log%20landing_zpssnfevzk1.jpeg.html[/img]


    What a mess and safety hazard....dirt everywhere and slash and donkey loaders set on angles.

    You can do this kind of down and dirty in On30. I did have the sanitized logging outfit ,you mentioned,  when I previously modeled in HO.

    Glad you liked the log cars.......amazing what some paint and washes will do.

    Tom

    Last edited on Tue Apr 18th, 2017 01:02 am by Doctor G

    Doctor G
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    Si. wrote: " I think I need to get going on some backdrops the styrofoam blue is really sticking out! "


    Hi Doc :wave:


    ' Kodachrome Blue ' as some photographers call it...

    ...just looks like a vintage colour-slide to me ! ;)


    I was thinking, what on earth ?

    Docs covered most of his nice rockwork up with logging slash !

    Then of course seeing the other side of the micro...

    ...I guess you're going to have those rocks fairly exposed.


    Can't quite believe you've glued all the slash & earth down ! :shocked:

    It all looks really 'loose'.


    Great stuff Doc. :thumb:


    :moose:


    Si.

    Hi Si:wave:,

    Tonight I ordered some winter scene backdrops to get that last vestige of blue gone.:2t:

    I did "the dirt " mixing real dirt  with Scenic Express's very nice ground foams. To apply, I put down straight white glue on the sculptamold underlayer. The dirt mixture was sprinkled on and the whole thing was misted with wet water. The white glue comes up by capillary action in to the dirt and it all drys hard yet continues to look loose. While the glue was drying I pressed in bits of twigs and dried root fibers to model the slash and voila:



    I did only work a square foot at a time and the steep slopes were challenging!!!!

    Doc Tom

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    Now that half of the layout is covered with dirt and autumnal grasses.




    It was time for the big foliage…. trees in the winter.



    Scenic Express came through with some of there sage brush armatures (not readily found here in Tennessee ) and roots and twigs from the garden were also used. Here are some of the first plantings near the log trestle bridge.







    I really like the detail you can get in this large O scale with these diminutive On30 trains.

    Thanks for looking. Doc Tom


    Doctor G
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    I finally got rid of the STYROFOAM BLUE and put up some photo backdrops on the divider in the center of the mini layout.



    Most photo backdrops are in summer or fall color schemes. I really had to search to find one that was a winter photo with leaves down and conifers giving only a hint of green.



    I found two at "Backdrop Junction" made of vinyl that I think look OK.

    Doc Tom

    Si.
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    Hi Doc :wave:


    Looks like a good choice !

    The general coloring & tree cover looks very nice !!


    :moose:


    Si.


    I like the last 'spot the dude in the woods' photo ! ;)

    W C Greene
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    Howdy Doc, you are building probably the most realistic logger I have seen since the times of Lyle Spears and Jack Work. Keep going, you have many board feet to cut!

    Woodie

    Doctor G
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    W C Greene wrote: Howdy Doc, you are building probably the most realistic logger I have seen since the times of Lyle Spears and Jack Work. Keep going, you have many board feet to cut!

    Woodie

    WOW WC thanks for the nice compliment. I remember their work.

    The level of detail is possible because this a mini layout  52" X 34" and I poke along very very slowly and I can finally get something presentable after several mistakes and redos.;)

    Tom

    Doctor G
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    More activity on the mini layout means more timber is being harvested at the log landing.



    Those logs have to go somewhere so a log dump has been constructed on the flip side of the mini.



    The logs will be off loaded here and slide in to the Red River. They will be floated downstream to the sawmill.



    It is good to see the little steamers making some $ for the Original Kittom Lumber company.



    Thank you so much for looking in on this small backwoods operation.

    Doc Tom

    Doctor G
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    I put down some tie down rings for the cables that will unload the log car. These were made with some small inexpensive pendants painted to look like rusted metal.Two cables will go to a yoke and be lifted by means of a "Gin Pole" cabled to another steam donkey. This will allow the logs to be lifted from the car and dumped down the log slide to the Red River below.Doc Tom

    Reg H
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    Great stuff.
    Reg

    Doctor G
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    So the messiest part of layout construction is completed with "dirting in" the log dump side of the mini layout. The "dirt" is actually a blend of real dirt and two brown shades of Scenic Express fine ground foam.







    Next up grasses, low lying winter bushes and leaf fall.

    Thsnks for looking. Doc Tom

    Helmut
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    Seems your photobucket is full - can't see any photos but a system's message.

    Last edited on Fri Jun 30th, 2017 08:57 am by Helmut

    Doctor G
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    Looks like photobucket is no longer free. Some are saying it will be $400 a year to get pics back on forums. Hope you other guys haven't been hit. I had never exceeded storage limits with careful deletes of unused photos.

    Looks like I will need to find another way to post pictures. :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:

    Doc Tom

    Si.
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    Hi Doc. :wave:



    Looks like bad news Doc. :f:

    Hope it isn't 'terminal'.

    Photo-Bucket aint worth $4!7 in my opinion anyway.



    Freerails offers totally unlimited & FREE photo-hosting for all Members railroading pix.!

    If you can't think of what to do with the $400 Bucks you save ...

    ... just donate it to the Site !! ;)



    We had to buy a new $4 jar of coffee the other day.

    Rising prices & all that. ;) ;)



    :moose:



    Si.

    Si.
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    What you might be able to do Doc. ...

    ... is DELETE the 'over the limit' photos ...

    ... hopefully returning all the others to where they should be ...

    ... without paying the $400 Photo-Bucket 'ransome-demand'.



    Then either start using Freerails FREE Members Gallery hosting ...

    ... or start a 'new account' with Crap-Bucket or some other shoddy hosting provider.



    :moose:



    Si.



    Deleting the last few pix. in, seems the best way to get the rest back to me.


    Good luck Doc. . . .

    Reg H
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    The only down side to using the forum's gallery is that not all browsers work.

    I normally use Chrome.  Gallery won't come up.  Though I can view everyone's photos within a thread.  

    No big deal.  I just use Thunderbird for posting photos to the gallery and moving them to a thread.  

    Reg


    Si.
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    The Freerails Members Gallery is quick & easy to use with the majority of 'decent' browsers.

    There's no 'down-side' to that.



    Personally my opinion on 'Chrome' is about the same as 'Photo Bucket'.



    Get & use a 'decent' corporation-free browser, like Firefox & stick with it.



    I would say that using the Freerails Members Gallery is a whole lot better than all your photos vanishing !



    If you must have 'wacky' computers & browsers ...

    ... then good luck on all of it ! ;)



    :moose:



    Si.

    Reg H
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    Si:
    Not Thunderbird...I meant Firefox. Thunderbird is the email app.  I would use that instead of gmail if I could.

    I really like Firefox.

    I use Chrome (and other Google apps) because it works across platforms, not just for the browser, but for email, calendar, etc.  

    I am cursed with having to deal with three computers, two phones, vendors and assorted regulatory agencies.

    I would abandon Google if I could find an alternative that works with all of the above.  Just like I would abandon MicroSoft and Windows if I could.  I try and do most of my computing on Linux, but so much of the software that I use for work depends on Windows I can't escape Bill's empire entirely.

    A couple of the regulatory agencies with which I must deal have taken to producing forms with embedded macros that only work on Excel.  :bang:

    There are also online applications (for instance, the service we use to process credit cards) that will only work on MS Internet Explorer.  :bang:  :bang:  :bang:

    As much as I can I use open source software.  It is my highly opinionated view that OpenOffice is not just a viable alternative to MS Office, it is actually better.  And using it (or Libre) on Linux is a major pleasure compared to the adventures of dealing with Windows.

    We spent about 18 months converting our SCADA system here at work from a Windows based program to one operating on Linux.  It is such a huge improvement it is almost unbelievable.  It is far more stable, no popups, no un-announced "upgrades" and no random lockups.  :rah:  The SCADA system is entirely stand alone.  It comprises two computes that are dedicated to SCADA.  So that part of my life doesn't need to deal with outside influences.
    Reg

    pipopak
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    "I would abandon Google if I could find an alternative that works with all of the above.  Just like I would abandon MicroSoft and Windows if I could.  I try and do most of my computing on Linux, but so much of the software that I use for work depends on Windows I can't escape Bill's empire entirely."

    Try Ubuntu and the wine app to run windoze software.
    Jose.

    Reg H
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    pipopak wrote: "I would abandon Google if I could find an alternative that works with all of the above.  Just like I would abandon MicroSoft and Windows if I could.  I try and do most of my computing on Linux, but so much of the software that I use for work depends on Windows I can't escape Bill's empire entirely."

    Try Ubuntu and the wine app to run windoze software.
    Jose.


    Jose:
    Switching back and forth is not a problem.  The problem is that I don't want to run Windows at all.  But must for certain tasks.  
    Reg

    Lee B
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    Helmut wrote: Seems your photobucket is full - can't see any photos but a system's message.

    https://www.pcmag.com/news/354711/

    Doctor G
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    GOOD BYE PHOTOBUCKET!!!

    Overnight PhotoBucket had become ransomware. The Good Ole Boys on the Kentucky Tooth Pick Line decided it was time for some country justice.

    So its good riddance to the bucket.





    A big ole welcome to IMGUR which so far is still as free as a running stream and right easier to use too.

    Doc Tom:rah::rah::rah:

    pipopak
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    IMGUR which so far is still as free as a running stream and right easier to use too.

    ... wonder for how long...
    Jose.

    Si.
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    Hi Doc. :wave:



    Good to see the good ol' boys dumping that bucket of crap.



    Imgur.com ?

    Mmm...

    I don't wanna spoil the party ...

    ... but I read this earlier on one of the user rants about Photobucket :-



    " Imgur terms of service also prohibit third party hosting. "

    " Also, don't use Imgur to host image libraries you link to from elsewhere, content for your website, advertising, avatars, or anything else that turns us into your content delivery network.
    If you do – and we will be the judge – or if you do anything illegal, in addition to any other legal rights we may have, we will ban you along with the site you're hotlinking from, delete all your images, report you to the authorities if necessary, and prevent you from viewing any images hosted on Imgur.com
    We mean it."



    I have not checked the fine-print T&Cs at Imgur.com

    But it would not now surprise me if this is true.



    They may follow suit with Photobucket.

    Or they may not wish commercial suicide on themselves.

    But BEWARE ... They MAY be the next !



    My 'personal' feeling is, I wouldn't use Imgur, even if they PAID ME !


    Doctor G
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    Hi Si,

    I am glad I had only hobby stuff on PB. Others apparently had family albums and business photos. They must be really mad.

    I am trying to figure out direct posting here and trying to figure out how to get piccies from iCloud over to Free Rails and the correct size.I agree IMGUR could get greedy too.:bow:

    Thanks for all the input and ideas.:wave:

    Doc Tom


    Si.
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    Doc.



    Your problem is the first I've seen of this.

    I tend to limit my internet horizons a bit.



    But apparently tons of auction-site item photos are now AWOL also.

    It seems that PhotoBucket have made a 'train-wreck' of 1/2 the internet.



    Global terrorists ?

    YOU BET THEY ARE !

    pipopak
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    Buy a hard drive to store your stuff within eyesight. Screw the clouds.
    Jose.

    2foot6
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    Arrr,in my time of life,I have reached the point of giving all this up and going back to the simple life of STEAM :2t::2t:.There appears to be many money hungry companies out there,wanting to keep me broke and keep their shareholders rich.(_!_).....Peter

    Steven B
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    Doc G.

    I guess it is time to kick the bucket !

    I found it easy to use the Freerails 'Members Gallery' after some kind guidance from the awesome mods.

    You need to go to 'Preferences' in 'My Account' using the top 'Menu' button & then change the 'Board Theme' to 'Ultra'.
    Then you will see the 'Gallery' in the top menu tab & the 'G' Button in the main reply window.
    The recommended size to Post is 800x--- pixel photos & they must be under 0.5 Megabytes.
    It is a snap to upload photos and place them in the posts.
     
    I am a computer maroon and figured it out once I found that I had to change my display.

    Hope that helps, oh and... it's "free" rails!

    :bg:

    Doctor G
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    Steven B wrote: Doc G.

    I guess it is time to kick the bucket !

    I found it easy to use the Freerails 'Members Gallery' after some kind guidance from the awesome mods.

    You need to go to 'Preferences' in 'My Account' using the top 'Menu' button & then change the 'Board Theme' to 'Ultra'.
    Then you will see the 'Gallery' in the top menu tab & the 'G' Button in the main reply window.
    The recommended size to Post is 800x--- pixel photos & they must be under 0.5 Megabytes.
    It is a snap to upload photos and place them in the posts.
     
    I am a computer maroon and figured it out once I found that I had to change my display.

    Hope that helps, oh and... it's "free" rails!

    :bg:
    Hi Steve. Thank you for your help. I agree it's probably time start loading directly to forms I like to post on after the debacle with photo bucket. I'm trying in here and I have a 800X 600 Picture in the gallery. When I go to the "G" button I get this message: "Sorry, your Browser does not support this Operation." Hi I am using Firefox and a Mac computer. Wonder what I should try next. Thanks for all the help. Doc Tom:us:

    Si.
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    Hi Doc :wave:



    I would try to, broadly speaking, follow the advice given in the Thread in the 'Photo Posting' Forum, for Windows-10.



    Yes I know it's a Mac ...

    ... but if you can do the 'Copy Image' & 'Paste Image' thing described there ...

    ... I think you may be in luck.



    I have a P.C. & a Mac.

    But not Windows-10 & the Mac is a pre Intel one.

    Sadly it is impossible to test & check every single hardware/software combination to give advice.

    But we are working on it.



    SO ...

    ... Expand the image, from the thumbnail in your 'Members Gallery' ...

    ... then 'Copy Image' using Mac copy function, on the expanded image from your 'Members Gallery'.

    Then in the 'Main Reply Window' which is open in a 2nd tab ...

    ... move the cursor to where you want the image to be in your Post ...

    ... and then using the Mac 'Paste Image' function, paste it into the Main Reply Window.

    I think it should appear, as it does with Windows-10.



    Let us know how you do Doc.

    Good luck.



    :moose:



    Si.

    Si.
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    Hi again Doc :wave:



    Since you're obviously not going to pay the $400 a year RANSOM DEMAND from PhotoBucket.Com ...

    ... unless CrapBucket decide they don't want to go out of business & reverse there extortion demands ...

    ... your Part-I & Part-II Threads will probably never contain photos again ...

    ... so are sadly basically useless.



    Once you have nailed the Photo Posting, using the Freerails Members Gallery ...

    ... If I were you, I would start a brand new Part-III Thread.



    It seems to me to be the best option ...

    ... rather than adding to the PhotoBucket TRASHED Part-II Thread.



    If I could line up the PhotoBucket execs. & had a .357 ...

    ... I would seriously consider using it !

    I am a very agreeable & peace loving person as well !



    :moose:



    Si.

    Doctor G
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    Thanks Si :bow:
    I went to the gallery where my 800X600 picture is and enlarged and copied it. It would not "paste" to this post however.:us:
    I can copy the image "address" and paste that . I wonder if that might work some how?
    Doc Tom...thinkingL:

    Doctor G
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    Well that worked using the [img][/img] routine. But is the image too small???Dr Tom

    Doctor G
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    OK here is another try:


    Now that looks better and all done with FR.com. I have broke the 3rd party addiction.:rah::rah::rah::rah:
    Now would it be best to start my third thread here??
    Doc Tom:2t:

    Si.
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    GO FOR IT DOC ! :bg:



    Start a Part-III



    :moose:



    Si.



    Nice Pic. :bg:

    Doctor G
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    Can you get rid of parts I and II as they are basically useless and taking up bandwidth. They need to be euthanized.:glad:

    Doc Tom:cool:

    Si.
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    Hi Doc :wave:



    There is a very very slight chance, that if the a$$hole Execs. at PhotoBucket.Com decide that they don't want their company to crash & burn, go out of business & the way of the dinosaurs ...

    ... that they may just decide, when they finally accept that basically 1/2 the internet want them hanging from a pole ...

    ... to move the goalposts BACK to where they always were for their millions of angry users.



    There again, they may not though.



    Your Part-I & Part-II are perfectly fine where they are at the moment Doc.

    They can sit there without being any problem.

    They will just drop down the board, as they won't be Posted to ...

    ... and your new Part-III will take over from them.



    So no worries on them at all.



    :moose:



    Si.



    Pleased you're back in the lumber business Doc. ! :bg:

    Doctor G
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    THANKS Si for helping me through all this. As we get further along with posts I would like to donate to help with the costs of running the choo choo show.

    Doc Tom


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