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Operations & Uncoupling
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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2017 08:17 pm
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W C Greene
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I use locking tweezers to pull the pins and while the pins are in the jaws, I can move the links around to line up with the holes...then drop the pins and squeeze the tweezers to let go. I have the same things on my On20 Gila Tram and have no problems. Just take care and have plenty of lighting to see what you are doing.

Woodie



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2017 09:22 pm
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pipopak
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I do not want something super fiddly (mostly for non-model-railroading guests),

........

Jose.



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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2017 10:18 pm
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Helmut F
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Yes, I have seen Woodies stuff in his thread. That is what got me thinking about it in the first place.

I like yours as well Bob. Is that prototyical at all? Just wondering, I have not seen that implemented anywhere yet. I can easily imagine its use somewhere.

Maybe I should do some testing to see how fiddly this really is.

Jose, I hear you and you are not ignored. It is just the link and pin appeals to me, but simplicity of operations probably wins the practicality award.

This is a conundrum.



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 Posted: Mon May 29th, 2017 12:27 am
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Bob R
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Helmut F wrote:

I like yours as well Bob. Is that prototyical at all? Just wondering, I have not seen that implemented anywhere yet. I can easily imagine its use somewhere.


Yes...  Mostly used on small tram style equipment.  Recommend looking on YouTube at the video titled "Vanishing Coal Mines of Pingxi Valley".  You will find it very interesting.
My layout is battery RC and evrything is manual.  Link and pin, hand operated ground throws and manual "armstrong" turntables.  Operating it is great fun.  I will echo Woodie though - you need good lighting.

Attachment: 20161207_155209_resized (2).jpg (Downloaded 70 times)



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 Posted: Mon May 29th, 2017 12:36 am
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Helmut F
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Thx. While my layout will not be a tram, it will mostly be small equipment. It is going to be outdoors (I have temporary indoor right now for testing stuff out) and plenty of light, but then that might mean no night operations.

Maybe I can figure out a way to just run trains for nighttime effect - I plan to have building lighting, etc. eventually - but i need to plan loops at the ends then.

But am i wrong in that one would need good lighting (at night) for even Kadee couplers? at least for uncoupling?



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 Posted: Mon May 29th, 2017 12:39 am
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pipopak
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You could tape a small flashlight to an uncoupling hook.
Jose.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2017 06:18 pm
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Si.
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" But am i wrong in that one would need good lighting (at night) for even Kadee couplers? "



Hi Helmut :wave:



I fiddled around on my old 1:24n3 car-builds, with 3 different coupler types.


1. Link n Pin - Russ Simpsons 1:24 Westside Lumber Company ones.

2. 'Realistic' Knuckle - Precision Scale 1:24 Brass 4-piece Castings.

3. Kadee Knuckle.


I like both the Russ Simpson & Precision Scale Couplers a lot.

The PSc ones were CRAZY expensive though, although my car production speed was slow.

The Russ Simpsons looked very nice for WSLCo. equipment.


In the end though, it was the chunky ol' Kadee 'G' scale couplers that made it on to the cars.

They didn't look brilliant on 1:24n3 'fine-scale' cars ... But they worked GREAT !



:moose:



Si.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2017 08:44 pm
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Helmut F
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Si,
much appreciated. while, for some tortuous reason, the link and pin or something of that type appeals to me I am probably going to go with Kadee.

Would you do 1 scale vs G scale to make the look a bit better?



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 Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2017 09:05 pm
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Lee B
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pipopak wrote: "Non-model railroading guests" and "link and pin couplers" do not belong in the same phrase. You are looking for endless frustration. IMHO they are only for the most dedicated (and steady-handed).


I agree fully with this.
Link and pins can be annoying even for people like us!



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 Posted: Sat Aug 19th, 2017 09:26 pm
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W C Greene
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But there are no uncoupling issues on grades, etc with l&p's.
Yep, a steady hand is needed...and a good stiff drink!

Woodie



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