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Dapol 7mm Class 08 Shunter BRC Conversion
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 Posted: Fri Jan 6th, 2017 01:26 am
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Rod Hutchinson
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Is it a tactile switch behind the door?



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 Posted: Fri Jan 6th, 2017 07:49 am
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Cor V
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as i see it, the door is the button for the switch:cool:Cor



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 Posted: Fri Jan 6th, 2017 10:20 am
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Fil
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Rod Hutchinson wrote: Is it a tactile switch behind the door?
Hi Rod, yes one of these on the floor of the cab. I foolishly took it apart first to weaken the spring slightly. An idea I almost immediately regretted.




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 Posted: Fri Jan 6th, 2017 10:26 am
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Rod Hutchinson
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Hi Fil,
I use the same switch.  Very effective.

Last edited on Fri Jan 6th, 2017 10:26 am by Rod Hutchinson



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 Posted: Sat Jan 7th, 2017 11:50 pm
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Si.
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Hi Fil :wave:

INCREDIBLE soldering on the board LED-pads ! :brill:

I have a teeny-weeny SMD Wolfson chip to solder at the moment...

...not yet found the courage to melt it yet ! ;)

Do you have an extra special teeny-weeny soldering iron for things that size.

The smallest one I have is still a tad big.

I was thinking about drilling out the end of a regular bit & pressing a blunt needle in to it.

Mmm...

Cool door switch ! :bg:

:moose:

Si.

That ESC you mentioned sounds interesting.

I found an 'unbranded' copy of a popular 2.4Ghz receiver the other day, for £3.50p inc P&P. just needs an ESC.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 8th, 2017 08:57 am
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Fil
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Thanks Si, yes a steadyish hand and get in and out of there real quick!
It is not a particularly fine point as can be seen...but I have found it small enough for soldering on SMDs of the 1206 variety. I am not even going to contemplate the smaller variants, hats off to those that do. 
I have to be honest: I simply cut off the existing 805 LEDs on the charging module.  

Your idea of a needle in the end of a standard tip sounds worth investigating, but would you be able to tin the tip successfully? You would also need to make it a tight fit and push it in while the iron was at full temp...or I suspect it may fall out in use otherwise....interesting idea! L:




...and btw I HATE soldering near plastic models! 



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 Posted: Sun Jan 8th, 2017 09:34 am
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Rod Hutchinson
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A short tutorial on soldering wires to SMD LEDs which may be of interest.
http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/SMDs/Using%20SMD%20LEDs.html

Last edited on Sun Jan 8th, 2017 10:09 am by Rod Hutchinson



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 Posted: Sun Jan 8th, 2017 10:37 am
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Rod Hutchinson wrote:
A short tutorial on soldering wires to SMD LEDs which may be of interest.
http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/SMDs/Using%20SMD%20LEDs.html


OMGSH! Thanks Rod! The page you linked to should really contain the WARNING: Page contains Genius! :bow:

Soldering SMD LEDS upside down! Why didn't I think of that!!? Simply brilliant. You may have derailed this current project while I go fit some lights to an 00 model... ;)



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 Posted: Sun Jan 8th, 2017 10:40 am
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Rod Hutchinson
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Hi Fil,

I have followed the process many times. Its simplicity is the genius.



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 Posted: Thu Jan 19th, 2017 01:50 pm
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Well, it appears that the Li-Po battery I originally had intended to use cannot deliver the amps to the booster. It was a flat, oblong 1000mAh battery and cost less than £4...I guess I still have not learnt the "get what you pays for" lesson!

Tests with a Li-ion 18650 (a genuine Panasonic part) showed that was the direction I needed however the 18650 was too big. In my search I found an 18500, a size I didn't know existed. (You'll probably be aware with Li-Ion part numbers the first two digits are diameter and the rest the length, in this case 18mm x 50.0mm)

This cell is rated at 2000mAh, here it is with a PP3 for scale:



This cell works fine, and though double the price of the Li-Po it's increased (and more likely to be genuine) capacity is a nice bonus.



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