Freerails Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register
Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > O Scale > Building 2-Rail Turnouts???

Because of non-railroad abuse of the site, new members MUST use their first names (at least) to join NO EXCEPTIONS!

Building 2-Rail Turnouts???
 Moderated by: Reg H Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
 Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: Sat Jan 14th, 2017 11:09 pm
  PMQuoteReply
11th Post
Robert Comerford
Registered
 

Joined: Thu Feb 14th, 2013
Location: Glen Innes, Australia
Posts: 543
Status: 
Offline
I have built my own gauges when needed so it is possible Bob. I did that in S scale and in O before getting some commercial ones from the UK.

If you have one of the converted toy market points that your trains run through the best then you can use that as the starting point. The good thing about soldered construction is the ability to move things around until you have got it right. Could be very handy when inventing your own standards.

The important dimensions are the flangeway gap and the check gauge. You need to copy those dimensions. The flangeway should just wide enough for your wheels to pass through without dropping into the gap and the check gauge is a last ditch means of preventing your wheels from hitting the nose of the frog.
A vernier calliper is very useful for determining these dimensions.
I made feeler gauges out of suitable pieces of metal to insert between the crossing V and closure rails to set the gap. If you have an old set of feeler gauges lying in a tool box they might come in handy.
I made my check gauge from some thin steel sheet. I made it slightly under size and filed out the final size using my callipers to check progress.
I made my own track gauges out of scraps of wood to hold the rails to gauge while soldering . Just two saw cuts to the right width and deep enough to hold the rails. Saved a lot of burnt fingers. It is possible to make roller gauges for this purpose on a lathe out of some round metal or hardwood too.

To make the crossing v to a set angle I use a piece of wood with two cuts in it at the angle required e.g. 1:5.
I insert the rail upside down, having filed the ends close to the required shape and solder them together.

There are plenty of methods that are used but those are the basic ones I have used. Fasttracks have some very handy filing jigs. I had a loan of one once and they really make things easier.

regards
BobC

Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Jan 17th, 2017 09:54 am
  PMQuoteReply
12th Post
Bob D
Registered
 

Joined: Wed Apr 1st, 2015
Location: Portsmouth, USA
Posts: 531
Status: 
Offline
Thanks Bob!

I ordered a spike tool so while I'm waiting on it to arrive I cut a piece of rubber mat I'm using as the roadbed and glued a #6 template and ties to it. Also made a jig for soldering the frogs.

I would get those Fasttracks jigs but just don't feel like spending the $$$, well see how this "cheap man's turnouts" come out LOL!

BobD



____________________
O-SCALE BPRC
Back To Top

 Posted: Wed Jan 18th, 2017 06:02 pm
  PMQuoteReply
13th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 371
Status: 
Offline
Bob D wrote: Thanks Bob!

I ordered a spike tool so while I'm waiting on it to arrive I cut a piece of rubber mat I'm using as the roadbed and glued a #6 template and ties to it. Also made a jig for soldering the frogs.

I would get those Fasttracks jigs but just don't feel like spending the $$$, well see how this "cheap man's turnouts" come out LOL!

BobD

I've had quite a few spiking tools over the years.  The best?  A small pair of side cutters.  
Reg



____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Wed Jan 18th, 2017 10:51 pm
  PMQuoteReply
14th Post
Robert Comerford
Registered
 

Joined: Thu Feb 14th, 2013
Location: Glen Innes, Australia
Posts: 543
Status: 
Offline
I should have mentioned I made my own spiking tool by cutting a groove in a pair of pliers with a cutting disc in my mini drill. Many times I have used an unmodified pair with as much success.
cheers
BobC

Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2017 10:45 am
  PMQuoteReply
15th Post
Bob D
Registered
 

Joined: Wed Apr 1st, 2015
Location: Portsmouth, USA
Posts: 531
Status: 
Offline
The spike pliers work fine, but I've found even with it I have to hold it steady so the direction of travel doesn't change, otherwise it's another bent spike.

So far I've made 1 right hand and 1 left hand turnout!!! On the RHT I used a commercial ($12) frog, on the LHT I "rolled" my own.

For now, I'm still using mainly hi-rail wheels on my engines, passenger, and freight cars. Some of the hi-rail wheels hit on the bottom of the commercial frog, making the frog eliminated the problem.

I may put all 2-rail wheels on my cars, but keep the engines hi-rail due to cost of replacing the wheels.

BobD



____________________
O-SCALE BPRC
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2017 06:45 pm
  PMQuoteReply
16th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 371
Status: 
Offline
Try side cutters.  Just enough squeeze to hold the spike.  
Reg



____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2017 06:46 pm
  PMQuoteReply
17th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 371
Status: 
Offline
Also:
Congratulations on getting two done.  
And we want photos!!!
Reg



____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2017 08:30 pm
  PMQuoteReply
18th Post
Bob D
Registered
 

Joined: Wed Apr 1st, 2015
Location: Portsmouth, USA
Posts: 531
Status: 
Offline
Here ya go Reg.

So far I've built a #6 left hand and a #6 right hand turnout using parts from Right-O-Way and new owner Jay Criswell:

RIGHT-O-WAY

Jay's been very helpful in all this, he took the line over from Lou Cross.

Here's the turnouts:







On the RH I used a frog that Jay sent me.  It's very nice but since I'm still using hi-rail wheels (which hit the bottom of the frog) on my engines and rolling stock I thought I'd try making my own.

On the LH I made the frog from pieces of code 148 rail, I just had to watch where I put the spikes so the wheels wouldn't hit.

I'll probably replace the hi-rail wheels on my rolling stock with 2-rail wheels, but leave the engines alone.

So far both hi-rail and 2-rail wheels seem to be doing OK.

I mounted them on pieces of 3/8" thick rubber anti-fatigue matting, which I also use for main roadbed.  I glued a template on top of the mat then glue the ties to it, then spiked the rails.  Once I put them in place and throw some ballast/ground cover on it'll all be covered up.

I'm using the rubber mat on my present layout.  It did make it quieter, until I put down ballast which brought the sound up again.  It comes in a roll and cuts easily with a box cutter and can be beveled on the bandsaw.  When I did my present layout I figured it out to be cheaper than the cork a lot of folks use.

BobD



____________________
O-SCALE BPRC
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2017 09:34 pm
  PMQuoteReply
19th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 371
Status: 
Offline
Bob:
Those look REALLY good!!!  I like the look of your handmade frog better than the commercial product.  

You might want to flow a little ACC around the frog and the guard rails to make sure they stay in place, though you have things pretty well spiked down.
Did you say this was your first attempt at turnouts?  They sure look a lot better than my first attempts.

Reg



____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Jan 26th, 2017 10:26 pm
  PMQuoteReply
20th Post
Robert Comerford
Registered
 

Joined: Thu Feb 14th, 2013
Location: Glen Innes, Australia
Posts: 543
Status: 
Offline
Well done Bob. Goodonya mate!
You are probably now thinking why did I not try this before. :>)

I second the superglue around the frog area once all is working right and in place.

Before having a wholesale swap-out of your existing rolling stock wheels it might pay to get couple of axles and see how they go running through your points. The closer to scale wheels will have a much thinner tyre and might fall into the frog gap. Not an issue when being pulled at speed ,but being pushed slowly backwards is when that drop can become a cause for derailment. That said, the idea to just replace the rolling stock wheels gets you that step closer to scale with a lot less pain. Steamers can be a time and money exercise although diesels might be not too bad with replacements from NWSL.

I'm with Reg, they look better than my first attempts to.

regards
BobC

Back To Top


 Current time is 12:37 pm
Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  

Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > O Scale > Building 2-Rail Turnouts???
Top



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2016 Data 1 Systems