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Humboldt & Toiyabe Railway 1881
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 Posted: Sun Dec 31st, 2017 06:23 am
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Steven B
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Got a few hours to work on the caboose today.  I cleaned up the sides and fitted the windows.  They are not glued in yet because I am building this by the seat of my pants. Meaning I don't know what I am doing until I do it.  I am using the plans and the two photos as my guide.  

When I got to the letter boards I was trying to figure out a radius and, golly, my knife handle was pretty close.  Good thing I have a few.  

I then cut the ends.  I found that I was too fargone lazy to build doors and I had a set of Grandt DR&G caboose doors.  They be the ones, looked great.  I cut out the four pane windows and making them single pane windows.  I used a compass to draw and cut the radius for the roof.  Started trimming it out, but got to the point where I was starting to stare at it.  Time to quit.  Found out a long time ago, don't try to do "that last little thing" before quitting.  I usually screw it up...  :doh:



Temp is dropping!  Snow flurries now!!  Come on climate change, do your thing... keep me from doing anything that looks like chores tomorrow.  Although there are those kitchen uppers that she keeps asking about (she got the parts for me today... gee thanks) and then there's that drywall work... Sigh.:y:

Last edited on Sun Dec 31st, 2017 06:25 am by Steven B



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Steven B.
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 Posted: Sun Dec 31st, 2017 09:21 am
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Michael M
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Steven,

Where did you find those pedestals?  Thinking they would be great in 1/35 scale.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 31st, 2017 04:21 pm
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Steven B
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Michael, They are Grandt Line C&S Caboose pedestals.  I built them without the leaf spring and modified them by taking out the "spring" and putting in a "rubber" shock absorber, as used on early trucks.  But otherwise it is right out of the kit.

Last edited on Sun Dec 31st, 2017 04:21 pm by Steven B



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Steven B.
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 Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2018 01:41 am
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Steven B
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Moving right along.  I have begun to paint this rig.  My hope is to recreate the look in the photos of this caboose.  But, maybe not too much as it is supposed to be fairly new.  The whole idea is to do a few "washes".  "EGADS!  Is he going to brush paint this thing?!"   Yup.  It is too cold to break out the airbrush, and truthfully I want a "stained" look.  So washes it will be.  I need to mention that I lightly distressed all of the styrene to give it a light wood grain.  I used a #11 knife and a wire brush.  I first washed with a Model Master Acryl Raw Sienna. The frame and deck are done.

Now I go for a darker but red color.  I supposed that the siding is fir. and it has a red tone to it.  I used a wash of Earth Red.  On the deck and frame I also went with some dark browns too.  Then I dry brushed a Panzer Interior (a yellowish white) to give it the "wood" look that I wanted.  If you ever looked at pictures of Bodie's wooden structures, that was the color/effect that I as shooting for on the frame and deck.

I also put some paint on the Grandt casting so that they might accept color a little better.  The hardest part of all of this is finding the ding dang patience to let it all dry and not wipe the previous color off.:f:  Don't ask me how I know.  Notice how dark the one side at the top is in the upper photo.
The photos of the prototype are black and white and there are only two known.  One is in winter and the other is in summer.  Best thing is that they are different sides.   So, the cab is a very light color and my first thought is paint it white.  But then I thought, I want a colorful railroad.  White won't cut it.  So I am opting for a light cream.  I am mixing a GLB Yellow with a Panzer Interior.



To quote an old Buck Owens song, "It's drying time again..."

Last edited on Tue Jan 2nd, 2018 01:43 am by Steven B



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Steven B.
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 Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2018 04:01 am
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Steven B
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So I pulled out the Patented Impatient Car Dryer.:)  They are acrylics and dry fast.



Getting so far and waiting I looked at the photos.  the undercarriage is very dark.  Like, black dark, and I didn't like that.  The doors were also very dark.  Having worked with old photos in a past life, I knew that red could interpret dark.  And the snow being very white in one picture could be just enough contrast to make the color seem black.  I decided that since late photos (almost all photos of the BR&LCo were late, 1900 and on, photos) show the flats to be what appears to be a lead (boxcar) red with white letters.  This is also what the car at June Lake was painted, it was found out on the line.  I made a command decision, the underframe would be red.  I mixed a "lead" red and made sure that is had some blue in it, for dark interpretation.  And since the doors were dark too, so be it, the doors are red.


The unpainted white is raw plastic and is a glue edge for when I assemble the car.  But the doors kinda look nice in the red.  And with the last dry brush of "buff" the boards can sorta be seen and gives it the pre-peeling look that I was hoping for.  Remember winters and summers are tough at over 8,000' (2450m for you folks outside of the Great Basin area) in the desert.  So wood takes a licking, and keeps on shrinking.  I may hit it with some dullcote, even though the shine is probably correct, most folks can't make the model leap and think it looks "toylike".  Argh... "cute."  Next we go indoors.

Last edited on Tue Jan 2nd, 2018 04:01 am by Steven B



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 Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2018 04:55 am
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Si.
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Hi Steven :wave:



I'm pleased to hear the weather is really bad there for you ... ;)

... so you've got lots of time for modeling ! :)



Thanks for the step-by-step. :thumb:

It looks like the final layers of colour are pretty nice ! :bg:

Plus the RUST ! down bellow of course. :P



:cb:



Si.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 3rd, 2018 08:58 pm
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Reg H
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Really looking good.

Two observations...yeah that concept of quitting before trying to squeeze in that last little task is a great tip.  I adopted that more recently than I care to admit. I have screwed up a lot of project by trying to rush that one last step before dinner.


And...I like your approach of working things out as you go.  I used to try and plan out every step, only to find out that not infrequently a planned step simply would not work as planned. 

My recent plate girder project was tackled that way.  I simply started cutting, hacking and gluing things together until I got the result I wanted.  Projects don't always work out that way.  But a lot of times you just gotta figure things out as you go.

Regarding the second observation...I fell victim in a recent machine shop project.   I had 12 6-32 holes to tap, and it was getting close to bed time.

Wanting to get all 12 tapped before quitting for the evening I kinda hustled the tapping.  Until I broke the tap.  

All efforts to remove the broken tap have failed.

So I get to build that part all over again.

Reg



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 Posted: Thu Jan 4th, 2018 08:53 am
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Steven B
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Ugh!  I hate when that happens.  I had some time today and thought, "I know the prototype wasn't lettered (at least in the later 1910s and only two images), but the tenders of the locos were quite snazzy in the early days of 1881.  So why wouldn't they letter the caboose?!"

The flats had Roman Style lettering.  I thought, "I'll do some cool shadowing and keep it simple."  Yeah, right.  I was in a "rush" and the decals that I was trying to use were ANCIENT, read: falling apart.  I burned through all the spares and had a number of them set on the model... ugh!  I ended up scrubbing the good ones off as I didn't have enough to finish the project.  I'll do something later... maybe.  I'll have to buy more decals and I'm not a fan of shipping costs right now for a single sheet of decals.  I can always revisit that later, even after the model is completed structurally.

So, no, I didn't start the interior yet, but wasted a epoch of time on the project today.  Yes, Reg, there is a stopping point, recognizing them when they come along is the tough part.:bang:  No picts today because there is nothing to see here, move along.  

Well Si, it was warmer today, maybe that was the problem.  Oh, and then there was my real job, the one that makes the CFO happy.  Did I mention that she still wants me to finish the uppers in the kitchen?  I have to take the truck in for a new exhaust system (it finally gave up the ghost 330K miles later, not too bad really) so I guess that kitchen work will have to wait until the weekend?  Let me check the weather!;)



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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 04:34 am
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Steven B
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Opps!:f:

I drove the 2+ hours to Charlotte today for the WGH Trainshow and picked up some tools. So... I shoulda bought a coupler height gauge BEFORE I started assembly.  The B'Mann stuff uses HO height as the coupler platform.  BUT.... I am building a bunch o' stuff that is kitted for On3.  Or, in this case scratch building.  So I should have gotten the gauge first and built the platform to the gauge height.  But I was using the drawings and thinking, "This is cool," never taking into account operational awareness.  

Well it is a little low, or a little (quite a bit really) high in HO.  I cut and filed to make it work, hey after all Billmeyer & Small built their cars with a coupler through the end sill, so this is a gimme.


All betta. :2t: FMW link and pin couplers use a Kadee #5 HO box, so that is what I am going to use to mount them.  I am thinking this way so that I can change them out for knuckles when I have an op session with others who want to slam bam cars around.  No slam bam with link and pin, you need the patience to match Job.

In other news, the long a tedious building of the inside door and window frames is complete.  Did I mention that I am an HO rivet counter in recovery?  I sweat the details.  It is an illness, but I am getting better, this isn't On3... it is On30.  Right? :cool:  I don't even know if anyone will be able to see inside the car when I am done.  But I'll know the windows look right when looking out... what a kook.:Crazy:  Oh and I bought a new cutting mat.  The plywood was starting to splinter from all the little cuts.


Last edited on Mon Jan 15th, 2018 06:26 am by Steven B



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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 06:10 am
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Steven B
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Alrighty!  Two .080 styrene pads glued to the floor under the coupler boxes.  The "box" trimmed of its wings (the screw holes) and glued to the pads.  New holes drilled and tapped into the pads, centering springs put in the boxes FMW link and pin couplers added and the lids screwed down.  Now... if I just had something to hook it up to!:bg:  That'll come next maybe.  Have to repaint the scratched up styrene from my modification, but I must say... done! (for the night anyway)



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