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3D Printing - Making a master for HO moulding
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 Posted: Wed Feb 22nd, 2017 10:19 pm
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Tony M
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I have decided to make a new thread on 3/D printing making masters for a mould , Paul W is helping me out so anyone else is welcome to as well more the merrier on this project.

One of my main station building I am modelling for my layout is Sydney Central and there is a lot of fancy pedestal fencing on the building especially the front, I can't seam to get the measurements right with a small scale drawing  from a book on Sydney Central station.

Sadly I can't access the gallery so I have post one pic per post  do have another way a lot of mucking around will in future use the photo sharing mob as I have on my other posts
Paul here is a close upon the set of 10 pedestal  fencing on the tram and road bridge just past the tram stop covering Sydney Central.

It be great is you can work out the scale just by looking at a photo, be a series of pics on the next lot posts

Many thanks, Tony from down under

Attachment: IMG_0837 A.jpg (Downloaded 67 times)

Last edited on Wed Feb 22nd, 2017 10:20 pm by Tony M

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 Posted: Wed Feb 22nd, 2017 10:32 pm
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Tony M
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Here is the best pic so far close up of the pedestal fencing on the top of the building Sydney Central, just on the top of the building I need 18 panels be the same on the tram stop level and there is the side of the building have added them in yet a lot of work ahead .
Tony from down under

Attachment: sydney central tour 089a.jpg (Downloaded 67 times)

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 Posted: Wed Feb 22nd, 2017 10:46 pm
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Tony M
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Here is a pic of the top of the roof at the side of the building fancy fencing, I am modelling Sydney central station building to scale works out 3feet in length but the front of the wont building wont be  to sale had to cut out five windows she be huge about 8feet in HO scale
When finished the cut back version be a stunning site indeed, it is my layout.


Tony from down under

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 Posted: Wed Feb 22nd, 2017 10:57 pm
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Nice Guy Eddie
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The quick & easy Freerails attachment function does save a lot of messing about with outside photo hosts

Page loading times are much much faster since the photos are stored here at Freerails not in Timbucktoo

Members can upload as many photos as they want using the Freerails attachment function

It is the fastest & most efficient way to get photos Posted

Without wading through endless outside photo host advertising & web garbage !


A picture's worth a thousand words !


:f:


Eddie



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 Posted: Thu Feb 23rd, 2017 12:46 am
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Paul W
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Hi Tony

Oh shivers, I'm sorry but I have put you crook. When you said fencing, I took the item you wanted to be the bollards with chain between, in middle distance, not the decorative concrete walling furthest away....don't know what I was thinking!

So, estimate for pricing is probably a bit wide of the mark. However, the simpler shape of the concrete walling might lend itself to a cheaper printing process....I will just have to draw it up and see where it gets us.

Regards
Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 23rd, 2017 02:38 am
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oztrainz
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Hi Paul and Tony,
This will probably be a mongrel to cast because of all the rounded faces and having to get the centreline divide on the mould in exactly the right place. 


Question - If you draw the up a panel, encase it in a block in the drawing and then "remove" the panel, this should leave a cavity enclosed in the block. If you can section and split that at the drawing stage, can you 3D-print both halves of the mould directly in a suitable material? 



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John Garaty
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 Posted: Thu Feb 23rd, 2017 09:07 am
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Paul W
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oztrainz wrote: Question - If you draw the up a panel, encase it in a block in the drawing and then "remove" the panel, this should leave a cavity enclosed in the block. If you can section and split that at the drawing stage, can you 3D-print both halves of the mould directly in a suitable material?
Answer: yes, I can draw a shape and then 'subtract' it from another shape.  However, I suspect that material cost might sink this approach, as sensible as it is; a big block of resin is going to add up to a lot more $$ than a master for making a mould in rubber.  The parting  line between the two halves might not be very crisp at the edges either, resulting in a lot of flash to be removed.

I have dreamed up a less expensive way to produce the balustrades, but it involves a bit more work - 3D-print the round portions as a sprue of however many we can fit on the sprue, then separate these and glue between wood or plastic strips built up to form the top and bottom....any good, Tony?

Regards
Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 23rd, 2017 09:53 pm
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Robert Comerford
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I just though he wanted the bollards too Paul!

BobC

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 Posted: Fri Feb 24th, 2017 02:18 am
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Tony M
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Hi Paul and everyone, to get the height right the height of the pedestals are a third of the height of a standard door, Here is a pic of  the door give you and idea on the height of the pedestal, the door in HO scale is 25mm high , the pedestal is roughly 10 mm in height, not very big.

I agree with John going to be a tough item to print out, th width be roughly 200mm about 2mm  in HO scale.

Paul I saw in an earlier thread in the new members thread  you showed a couple of pics you were drawing to print was the side of the bogie plate and a steam loco shell, I can't wait to what you come up with your drawing.

Which is the best way to go now, what I am after is a panel of ten pedestals form what John is saying be hard to mould.

You will have to go back a couple of posts of the close up pics and look at the door pic, going to be uninteresting thread more help welcome. These close up pics were taken by my friend he actually built an N scale version of Sydney Central Ross Balderson he won big awards on his effort took him 7 years, John and Bob you may of heard of him.


Tony

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 Posted: Fri Feb 24th, 2017 03:07 pm
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Paul W
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Tony M wrote: Paul I saw in an earlier thread in the new members thread  you showed a couple of pics you were drawing to print was the side of the bogie plate and a steam loco shell, I can't wait to what you come up with your drawing.

Tony

Hi Tony

I am working on a bogie side-frame, yes, but I deny all knowledge of a loco shell; the one shown in my introduction thread is cast whitemetal, not resin at all.  I don't use 3D printing for things that can be built from other materials for less $$.

I don't follow what you mean by the door photo....unless the door and a pedestal are side-by-side in a photo, then the door is irrelevant because I cannot compare the heights.  Have I missed something?

If I can't get sufficient info, I end up having to guess at sizes then correct things until they look about right, and that would require more work than I can afford to put into this.

Regards
Paul

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