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The tale of the Caricature Creek Logging Co.
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 Posted: Tue Apr 4th, 2017 04:27 pm
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southpier
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thank you; following along
Gary I wrote: ....started the layout in January....

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 Posted: Tue Apr 4th, 2017 04:33 pm
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southpier
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Gary I wrote: ....Had I used a CAD program and carefully laid things out maybe this wouldn't have happened. ....  cutting my gears on Model Railroader Magazines from the '30s & '40s, which showed fellows building brass locomotives on their kitchen table and using an egg-beater drill & file for a lathe, has me convinced the most recent technology may not be entirely necessary for a reliable model railroad.

Last edited on Wed Apr 5th, 2017 05:29 pm by southpier

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 Posted: Tue Apr 4th, 2017 04:41 pm
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Si.
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I was told " It can't be done "...

...but I made a gimble-bearing 'steadicam'...

...on a Black & Decker 'Workmate'(TM)...

...using a hand-drill, hacksaw & a DECENT selection of files...

...out of parts from an old VCR & an aluminium Chinese take-away counter !


It works GREAT ... and even looks PRO !


While someone is saying " it can't be done "...

...someone else is busy DOING IT !


:moose:


Si.


CAD (cardboard aided design) works for me EVERY TIME ! ;)



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 Posted: Wed Apr 5th, 2017 04:31 pm
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Herb Kephart
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While someone is saying " it can't be done "..

...someone else is busy DOING IT !.



Truer words  were never spoken, Si--goes right along with "where there's a will---


Herb



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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2017 01:02 pm
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Gary I
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So while I'm tweaking the grades a bit and trying to decide on a track weathering technique, thought I'd post an earlier shot of the scenery base under construction. 
My original idea was to use foam for the "decks" and traditional screen & plaster cloth for the hills & rock faces. The incline at the rear was cut from a ceiling tile and braced with cut foam risers (hidden under the scenery shell), and a series of manually cut foam risers for the lower incline. It was fussy work trying to get the grades exactly right at 5%. Even though this is a very modest size layout, in retrospect I should have just bought a Scenic Woodlands riser set and kept the grades at 4% -- they aren't that expensive and make it much easier to get the grades and curves exactly right: Note to self.
Actually, I ended up tearing out all of the screening and most of the paper/plaster cloth hills and replacing them with foam. More on that next.




Attachment: 20170226-17-08-55-001.jpg (Downloaded 73 times)

Last edited on Sat Apr 8th, 2017 01:03 pm by Gary I

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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2017 01:37 pm
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Gary I
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Rock faces.
I spent quite a bit of time researching how to do rock faces. The traditional method of pouring and gluing a zillion rock castings looked rather time consuming and tedious, although once in place, painting them using the Woodland Scenics "leopard" wash appears to be extremely simple and effective. Anyway, based on my internet searches it seems to me that many modellers have moved to carving rocks "in place" out of hydrocal/sculptamold/drywall mud etc. I liked that idea better and that was my original plan. Unfortunately I never found an example where someone had used this "carve in place" method which gave the results I was looking for...that technique seemed well suited for sedimentary rocks but not so much for dolomitic limestone typical of the Algonquin area.
Then I ran across this video on youtube...Carving foam rocks
...and decided to tear out my paper and screening and replace them with foam, which I proceeded to carve and paint.
I consider the results to be 'fair'. Following this technique as closely as possible, I struggled with different knives but ended up using 25mm and 18mm boxcutting blades. In retrospect I should have started the heavy cutting with a 25mm blade and finished the finer work with a much thinner 9mm blade for the curves and details. One mistake I made was that I didn't spend enough time eliminating the tool marks that weren't that obvious when carving, but became pronounced after painting.
Painting took some experimentation because of course foam is not porous and does not absorb pigment which is what makes painting hydrocal cast rock so easy and foolproof. What I ended up doing is to paint the entire rock face with a slightly thinned gray acrylic flat latex paint to cover all the nooks and crannys and let it dry. Then I simply followed the standard "leopard wash" technique using ochre, then brown followed by a full overwash of black. All I used were watered down dollar store latex paints -- nothing fancy here.
The results are what I would call "good enough" for a first layout. I would definitely use this technique again, but would spend more time developing my carving skills.


Attachment: 20170310-23-10-51-014.jpg (Downloaded 74 times)

Last edited on Sat Apr 8th, 2017 01:40 pm by Gary I

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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2017 01:53 pm
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Gary I
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I expect by the time I get some scenery in place, the flaws in the rock faces will not be as noticeable. Of course I could always enforce a "three-foot rule" too! :P

Attachment: 20170401-10-28-14-013.jpg (Downloaded 74 times)

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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2017 05:23 pm
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Ken C
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Gary

If you would like to try a different type of rock scenery.
Take a look at "Foam Rocks Frocks", I use this method myself, tearing foam stuffing, old foam seems to work better then the new foam I've collected from furniture dumpsters.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2017 05:44 pm
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Doctor G
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I too liked the look of carved foam rocks. Here is an early construction photo from The Original Kittom Logging Company:



Doc Tom;)

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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2017 05:57 pm
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Doctor G
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Ken C wrote: Gary

If you would like to try a different type of rock scenery.
Take a look at "Foam Rocks Frocks", I use this method myself, tearing foam stuffing, old foam seems to work better then the new foam I've collected from furniture dumpsters.


FROCKS are a nice way to make rocks too.

Here are a few done several years ago on my Haitian Sugar Hauler mini layout:

[img]http://http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg412/DrGrab/-1_zpsin2ili91.jpg[/img]

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