The problem with making barrels out of that plastic register receipt tube is trying to cut a perfect circle. Well, there is a way. I use a round diamond tip drill to make the cap or end (or a round hole in styrene). I found these on eBay and used them in the past to drill a hole in a glass wine bottle. I would stuff a short string of Christmas mini lights inside and make it into a night light of sorts or a bar decoration. My wife and I saw them in an out-of-the-way store, and my wife turned to me and said "you can make that." "I can?" Well, I did finally figure it out. I will warn you; there is no centering drill bit so this thing has a tendency to wander so I would strongly suggest that you make some kind of form to hold the drill bit in place.
I found these drill bit on eBay and they cost about $4-6 depending on the size you want.
I've used a number of these on my small ON30 layout. They're only available from Peco's Setrack line as opposed to the Streamline products. I like the fact that they're a good substitute for a hand built "stub" turnout, which is helpful if you're squeezed for space like I am. But then I'm only running ON30 geared steam and porters, so smooth switching at high speeds is not something I'm concerned about, let alone would ever do.
Exactly! Fortunately for some of us that don't have the space or time to build a room-filling layout, there are ways to compensate and still enjoy the hobby. I personally have little interest in watching trains run continuously in circles and much prefer starting/stopping/switching, which works very well for small shelf/point-to-point layouts. Slowing things down goes hand-in-hand with that....another reason why I really enjoy geared steam.
Even though I model 35n2 I used short equipment that will handle a 6 inch radius. So these switches will work great for me. I've tried making my own switches before and just never had any success. So I'll stick with Peco switches and Atlas flex track (with many ties removed) and devote my energies to more rewarding projects.