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Dr. StrangeLiPo ... or How I Learned To Stop Worrying & Love The Battery !
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 Posted: Mon Jun 26th, 2017 08:07 pm
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Si.
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Hi Guys :wave:



Although I started out with the idea of R.C.ing my Model-Power Plymouth, which may still happen ...

... I also have a few other options for my first R.C. loco.



I have done some basic assembly of the Smallbrook Studios 1:35 Plymouth resin-kit.

I measured the hood of the Model-Power Plymouth very carefully before ordering a number of R.C. components.

It was internally about 22mm wide & would easily fit eg. my new LiPo batteries.

Since getting the resin-kit however, because of the extra thickness of the resin-parts ...

... the internal width of the kit hood is LESS than 20mm. :f:

The stuff will still fit in, just a bit of a rethink is needed.



Also a dear friend of mine recently gave me a Bachmann HO G.E. 44 Ton mechanism.

This is a lovely running chassis with side-rods, but visually a bit on the small side for 1:35n2.

I know this is probably a MASSIVE CHEAT ... :shocked:

... but it would fit a modded Smallbrook Studios Plymouth & would be 100% invisible under the very low axle-boxes etc.

It is very very tempting to consider using this very nice mech. in the resin-kit.



I have also been slowly building a tender for my now modded to 0-4-0 Bachmann 0-4-2 Porter.

The idea being that this engine might well be better as my first R.C. loco.

Decisions, decisions  .  .  .



I was a bit hard on the JST 1.25 connectors.

I have messed with them a bit & am coming to accept them a bit more than at first.

The wire is still way way thinner though, than all the other wires on eg. the E.S.C board etc.

Mmm ...



:moose:



Si.



I never said I was QUICK !



Possible antenna question, for all you experts, coming up as well  .  .  .

Later  .  .  .





:bg:



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Mon Jun 26th, 2017 09:05 pm
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Michael M
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I'm by no means an expert but when I put RC in my Plymouth the antenna was only about 2 inches long.  I haven't experienced any trouble with the signal so far.  The RC car for my rail truck has a much longer antenna, about 10 inches long, so I'll have to come up with a new solution there.

It's surprising how room under the hood for RC electronics gets filled up so quickly.

That resin kit is a beauty!



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Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad
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 Posted: Tue Jun 27th, 2017 01:50 am
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Helmut
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If we assume the standard 1/4 wavelength antenna, then 1.25cm or 1/2" is all length you need with 2.4GHz



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 06:56 am
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W C Greene
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DEE-LIGHT-FUL!!!

Woodie



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 Posted: Fri Nov 10th, 2017 09:15 pm
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Si.
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My stash of R.C. funky junk !





To the Batmobile Robin !!  .   .    .



:Crazy:



Si.



Wish me luck ... The burn-cream is on standby & the air-ambulance landing area cleared ! :shocked:



____________________

' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2017 08:02 pm
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Si.
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Following Daves question in another Thread, about my 'FlySky' R.C. component sizes ...

... I thought I'd put up the basic measurements of my R.C. parts, which may be of interest.



- - - - - - -



'FlySky' 2.4 GHz receiver.



The 'FlySky' receiver comes in an easily removed, screwed together plastic housing.

Removing the circuit-board is as quick as taking out the 2 small screws on the back.

Since 'naked boards' are the R.C. 'norm' for space saving ... My plastic housing is HISTORY !


I also intend to remove the fairly bulky 0.1" pitch connectors & simply solder on 'flying leads'.

With these slight mods. to the basic product, the 'naked board' dimensions are ...

... 20mm x 32mm x 6mm


Some photos of the basic P.C.B to follow.



- - - - - - -



E.S.C. electronic speed controller 10-Amps.



The E.S.C. comes with PLENTY long enough flying-leads already soldered to the board.

The 'naked board' dimensions are ...

... 23mm x 24mm x 7mm



- - - - - - -



DC-DC 'step-up regulator' 9-Volts.



I more or less have TWO different power options for my R.C. installs.


1. Use a single 3.7-Volt LiPo battery & the above ^ 9-Volt 'step-up regulator'.

2. Use a pair of 3.7-Volt LiPo batteries & no 'step-up regulator'.


I haven't chosen which yet, I will probably decide, based on the dimensions of the loco.

The 'naked board' dimensions are ...

... 15mm x 23mm x 6mm



- - - - - - -



LiPo battery 3.7-Volts, 380mAh.



I bought 2 of these batteries to check out.

Basically I got this size since the 20mm width fitted my original Plymouth hood & other voids in the loco.


It looks like my first R.C. install may well be my Porter however.

This particular size battery may well in fact suit other possible future R.C. installs for me also.


The battery dimensions are ...

... 20mm x 39mm x 8mm



- - - - - - -



It is possible to put together a high-quality 2.4 GHz frequency-hopping R.C. system affordably.

All my components were bought from eBay listings, for the following prices :-


Receiver - £3.84p inc. P&P

E.S.C. - £2.54p inc. P&P

Regulator - £0.64p inc. P&P

Battery - £1.36p inc. P&P



:!:



Si.



I had thought about starting another Thread to 'specifically' describe my Porter R.C. installation.

But have decided to keep on with this Thread, for ALL my R.C. ramblings.


I'm going to 'edit' stuff in this Thread as I go, hoping to stay very much 'On Topic' ...

... & trying to focus ONLY on my 'FlySky' related R.C. projects & components.


As you guys all know, I'm not an   " OFF TOPIC ! "   shouting kinda guy.

But I think there is sometimes a need in more 'technical' based Threads ...

... to keep to the subject, as I'm sure it helps in understanding stuff.


:)



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2017 09:34 pm
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Michael M
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Si,

Any information you post about RC is extremely helpful for me.

I'm currently working on another Plymouth conversion to BPRC using much smaller components than before.
It's looking very promising and I'll post a few photos once I make a little more progress.

Thanks! :2t:




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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 04:22 pm
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George Ruthven
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Si,

I'am with you on all the parts except the regulator - what is that and what's it used for?

On the remote I would like to use the 2nd channel to blow a hooter (or LED).

I've used an old servo board (removes the PWM) to power a buzzer (works well) but it's just not a train type sound.

Any thoughts on a hooter small enough to fit in an O scale unit?
 
George



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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 07:12 pm
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Si.
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Hi George :wave:



" I am with you on all the parts except the regulator - what is that and what's it used for? "





George, I'll Post a full description of how the DC-DC 'step-up regulator' can be used later. :slow:

In brief for now though ...

They are 'mainly' used to UP the available Voltage, by people who can only fit ONE battery, in fairly small locos.



In your O-scale locos this is probably not the case & a regulator is probably not needed.

I figure you have the space to easily fit 1, 2 or 3 batteries, 3.7, 7.4 or 11.1 Volts respectively.

So I would guess you will be using either 2 or perhaps 3 batteries, depending on what top-speed you want.

In which case a 'step-up regulator' is not needed. :)

 
- - - - - - -


" On the remote I would like to use the 2nd channel to blow a hooter ... 

I've used an old servo board (removes the PWM) to power a buzzer (works well) but it's just not a train type sound.

Any thoughts on a hooter small enough to fit in an O scale unit? "



I started to collect & experiment :brill: with a number of affordable & interesting sound devices HERE :-



>> THE REPLICANT << Experimental 'Steamy & Gasoliney' Sound-System



There are numerous easy to use, small and VERY AFFORDABLE 'digital sound sample' boards available.

Operated as you have done, by something like a spare-channel & servo board ...

... connected to a nice chunky loudspeaker, I'm sure a great horn or bell sound is possible. :bg:



Any MP3 or WAV file sound from your computer can easily be loaded onto many of these boards.

Many others even have direct audio-recording inputs or built in microphones.

The Net has TONS of interesting sounds that could be used, or just record your own. :cool:



It would be interesting if you started a Thread on your install George. :thumb:

Your specific R.C. project could be discussed in more detail then.

The special requirements such as researching & implementing a good horn-sound, would be good to Post about as well.



:!:



Si.



____________________

' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Mon Nov 20th, 2017 02:52 pm
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George Ruthven
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Another aspect that interests me is the switch provided with the ESC's.

On our Santa Fe I stick the switch inside (hidden) (will position later if necessary) and leave it on during the day
as we return often to run the trains (a 3&1/2 yo child attention span still all over the place)
Whereas the Lima I switch off after every session (between 10 and 20 sessions for the day).

And because we sometimes run both and sometimes only one I have no way of checking.
The batteries seem to be between 5.6 or 6V at the end of the day which I think is JUST ok.

Does leaving it on drain the Lipo so much more and that is why they have switches?



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