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Dr. StrangeLiPo ... or How I Learned To Stop Worrying & Love The Battery !
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2017 04:10 pm
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W C Greene
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Herb has it right, all I really need is one transmit crystal and several receiver crystals (same freqs) since I seem to not have "ops sessions" with anybody else these days. Of course, all my stuff is old timey analog 27MHZ and I like it that way (so does my pocketbook). For me, the "ultimate" on/off switch would be the good old magnetic reed switches. Just pass the magnet across to run or not. But once again, the old Radio Shack sub miniature switches will have to do, they have been working for many years anyway.
But cutting boards in half? Shirley, you jest! Just don't call me Shirley......

Woodie



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2017 06:16 pm
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Helmut
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@Si
rotary switches in the oscillator - you must be joking, Mr. Feynman...
Your chances for a nonworking transmitter will be will be multiplied by powers of ten.



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2017 06:35 pm
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Si.
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You know what Helmut ...


... I just KNEW you were going to mention that slight problem. ;)


I must admit, it isn't ideal.


Short leads & nearby capacitors though ...

... yer never know, it MIGHT work.


:moose:


Si.


Anyway, on with the simple stuff ...

... I have to test my new battery charger.

The instructions are in CHINESE ! ...

... Haven't got the foggiest idea how it works. :f:


I have some blown up J.B.L.s & amplifier to fix, from my birthday last month as well ! :f:



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Wed May 17th, 2017 04:43 pm
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Si.
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??? . . . L: . . . :us: . . . :dope:


I'm not sure how it works.

I bought it cos I liked the colour & have loads of black 'wall warts' already.

You plug it into a 5 Volt OOOSB socket, via the included lead.

It has 6 battery sockets & 6 red LEDs.


I guess it's a trickle-charger :slow: ?

Does it switch off when the jobs done ?

Do the lights go OFF when the battery/ies are charged ?

Do the lights change individually, if say you charge both a large & small battery at the same time ?



:mex:



Si.



The design & marketing boys dun me on this one ...

... I payed £0.65p more than I needed to, cos I thought a green one looked :cool: !




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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Wed May 17th, 2017 06:34 pm
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Si.
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Thanks very much Herb & Woodie BTW.

The simple easy access on/off switch on a loco would be fine.

My idea is that if 2 locos are being operated at once ...

... one would be D.C. and the other R.C. anyhow.

I like the idea of a R.C. switcher being able to operate around a yard ...

... without bothering a D.C. loco that has arrived with cars, for example.


- - - - - - -


Another question.

E.S.C.s for cars, are available with/without a 'brake' function.

I don't quite understand what the 'brake' function is.

Could a loco operate with BOTH types of E.S.C ?

Or is it best to have either a 'brake' or 'no brake' E.S.C ?


:moose:


Si.


I guess the 'brake' function, loads the armature on deceleration ...

... same as a slotcar throttle with a 'brake' function.

I figure in practice, this affects a generally fairly slow-moving loco, very little.

So either should be OK. L:



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Wed May 17th, 2017 07:50 pm
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Helmut
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@Si
ESCs with dynamic braking are only suitable for electric racing cars and not for worm-gear locos. A sudden stop by short-circuiting the motor ( which is mostly the case, only the most sophisiticated controllers for 1:4 cars etc. offer gradual braking ) can cause gear tooth caries.



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 Posted: Wed May 17th, 2017 10:38 pm
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Si.
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OH I SEE ! :dope:

( That's what my Yamaha hard-disc recorder says, when it KNOWS you've been an IDIOT ! ) ;)



Thanks very much Helmut :bow:

Yes, a slotcar doesn't have a worm-gear & there is a lot of potential slippage/skidding.

I always knew there was a good reason my Dad said ...

... never to throw the reversing switch, when my Tri-ang 'Dock Authority' was at full throttle ! ;)



I did for some reason order 2 ESCs, one with & one without a 'brake'.

I think the 'brake' one may well have a brake on/off switch on it though ...

... but again, the £2.54p I paid, obviously didn't cover the cost of printing instructions, other than in CHINESE !

Perhaps I can use the 'brake' one, in a gearhead motored loco. L:



Another $0.05c cheque is in the mail Helmut. :thumb:



:moose:



Si.



I actually have all my parts now ! :bg:

I should have ordered some battery connectors though, as I don't have any at the moment. :f:



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Thu May 18th, 2017 03:19 am
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Michael M
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Connectors aren't much.  I get the JST 1.25.  Ther're about $1.75 for a package of 10.  I have several packages so everything I wire up will be the same.  I have a little charger similar to yours and the light goes out once the battery is charged.  If the sockets don't fit your other gear you should be able to pry it apart and solder new connectors.  That's what I did with one of mine and it works fine.

Can't help you with Chinese...the only word I know is 'pijiu' (beer).



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 Posted: Thu May 18th, 2017 04:34 am
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Si.
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Hi Guys :wave:



In looking at the battery connector situation & finding some to buy ...

... I have only just realized that the female cable-socket on my LiPos does not fit the male cable-plug on my 2 ESCs. :f:



The female cable-socket on the LiPos seems to be 'standard', with 2 small side-wings, as is the charger chassis-plug.



I really need to buy some matching male cable-plugs, to connect to the LiPos.

Does anyone know the name of the 'standard' LiPo/charger  socket/plug  connector ?

I have searched quite a bit & don't seem to see them coming up among battery connectors.



For other various connections, I think I am going to go with the 1.25mm pitch Molex micro-blade.

It seems easily available, whilst the marginally smaller 1.00mm less so.

The 2.00mm series seems fairly easy to get as well.

Mmm...



The correct name & finding the battery connectors, has me stumped at the moment ! :f:

Is the LiPo/charger connector generally called a 'LOSI micro' ? L:

Ah ! ... It seems to be called a 'JST micro 2.00' ( I think ).



Si.



It's nice to see most of the parts on the bench anyhow.

Their relative size can now be seen alongside a number of locos I have.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Thu May 18th, 2017 06:06 am
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Michael M
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Si,

I kinda ran into the same problem.  It seemed that everyone used a different style or size connector and there wasn't any kind of 'standard'.  Someone here recommended the JST 1.25 connectors and so that's what I've been using on everything.  It just seemed to make life easier rather than worrying which connector a LiPo/charger/circuit board had.  I just buy what I need knowing I'm going to change the connector anyway.  There are bigger things to worry about such as which loco to convert to RC next.



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