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Dr. StrangeLiPo ... or How I Learned To Stop Worrying & Love The Battery !
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 Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2017 03:02 pm
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Si.
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Following Daves question in another Thread, about my 'FlySky' R.C. component sizes ...

... I thought I'd put up the basic measurements of my R.C. parts, which may be of interest.



- - - - - - -



'FlySky' 2.4 GHz receiver.



The 'FlySky' receiver comes in an easily removed, screwed together plastic housing.

Removing the circuit-board is as quick as taking out the 2 small screws on the back.

Since 'naked boards' are the R.C. 'norm' for space saving ... My plastic housing is HISTORY !


I also intend to remove the fairly bulky 0.1" pitch connectors & simply solder on 'flying leads'.

With these slight mods. to the basic product, the 'naked board' dimensions are ...

... 20mm x 32mm x 6mm


Some photos of the basic P.C.B to follow.



- - - - - - -



E.S.C. electronic speed controller 10-Amps.



The E.S.C. comes with PLENTY long enough flying-leads already soldered to the board.

The 'naked board' dimensions are ...

... 23mm x 24mm x 7mm



- - - - - - -



DC-DC 'step-up regulator' 9-Volts.



I more or less have TWO different power options for my R.C. installs.


1. Use a single 3.7-Volt LiPo battery & the above ^ 9-Volt 'step-up regulator'.

2. Use a pair of 3.7-Volt LiPo batteries & no 'step-up regulator'.


I haven't chosen which yet, I will probably decide, based on the dimensions of the loco.

The 'naked board' dimensions are ...

... 15mm x 23mm x 6mm



- - - - - - -



LiPo battery 3.7-Volts, 380mAh.



I bought 2 of these batteries to check out.

Basically I got this size since the 20mm width fitted my original Plymouth hood & other voids in the loco.


It looks like my first R.C. install may well be my Porter however.

This particular size battery may well in fact suit other possible future R.C. installs for me also.


The battery dimensions are ...

... 20mm x 39mm x 8mm



- - - - - - -



It is possible to put together a high-quality 2.4 GHz frequency-hopping R.C. system affordably.

All my components were bought from eBay listings, for the following prices :-


Receiver - £3.84p inc. P&P

E.S.C. - £2.54p inc. P&P

Regulator - £0.64p inc. P&P

Battery - £1.36p inc. P&P



:!:



Si.



I had thought about starting another Thread to 'specifically' describe my Porter R.C. installation.

But have decided to keep on with this Thread, for ALL my R.C. ramblings.


I'm going to 'edit' stuff in this Thread as I go, hoping to stay very much 'On Topic' ...

... & trying to focus ONLY on my 'FlySky' related R.C. projects & components.


As you guys all know, I'm not an   " OFF TOPIC ! "   shouting kinda guy.

But I think there is sometimes a need in more 'technical' based Threads ...

... to keep to the subject, as I'm sure it helps in understanding stuff.


:)



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

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http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2017 04:34 pm
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Michael M
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Si,

Any information you post about RC is extremely helpful for me.

I'm currently working on another Plymouth conversion to BPRC using much smaller components than before.
It's looking very promising and I'll post a few photos once I make a little more progress.

Thanks! :2t:




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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 11:22 am
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George Ruthven
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Si,

I'am with you on all the parts except the regulator - what is that and what's it used for?

On the remote I would like to use the 2nd channel to blow a hooter (or LED).

I've used an old servo board (removes the PWM) to power a buzzer (works well) but it's just not a train type sound.

Any thoughts on a hooter small enough to fit in an O scale unit?
 
George



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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 02:12 pm
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Si.
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Hi George :wave:



" I am with you on all the parts except the regulator - what is that and what's it used for? "





George, I'll Post a full description of how the DC-DC 'step-up regulator' can be used later. :slow:

In brief for now though ...

They are 'mainly' used to UP the available Voltage, by people who can only fit ONE battery, in fairly small locos.



In your O-scale locos this is probably not the case & a regulator is probably not needed.

I figure you have the space to easily fit 1, 2 or 3 batteries, 3.7, 7.4 or 11.1 Volts respectively.

So I would guess you will be using either 2 or perhaps 3 batteries, depending on what top-speed you want.

In which case a 'step-up regulator' is not needed. :)

 
- - - - - - -


" On the remote I would like to use the 2nd channel to blow a hooter ... 

I've used an old servo board (removes the PWM) to power a buzzer (works well) but it's just not a train type sound.

Any thoughts on a hooter small enough to fit in an O scale unit? "



I started to collect & experiment :brill: with a number of affordable & interesting sound devices HERE :-



>> THE REPLICANT << Experimental 'Steamy & Gasoliney' Sound-System



There are numerous easy to use, small and VERY AFFORDABLE 'digital sound sample' boards available.

Operated as you have done, by something like a spare-channel & servo board ...

... connected to a nice chunky loudspeaker, I'm sure a great horn or bell sound is possible. :bg:



Any MP3 or WAV file sound from your computer can easily be loaded onto many of these boards.

Many others even have direct audio-recording inputs or built in microphones.

The Net has TONS of interesting sounds that could be used, or just record your own. :cool:



It would be interesting if you started a Thread on your install George. :thumb:

Your specific R.C. project could be discussed in more detail then.

The special requirements such as researching & implementing a good horn-sound, would be good to Post about as well.



:!:



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 05:00 pm
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George Ruthven
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Thks Si.

Yes I use 2x LiPo batteries, and so far very happy.

Ok, I'll work at the sound effect soon.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 20th, 2017 09:52 am
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George Ruthven
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Another aspect that interests me is the switch provided with the ESC's.

On our Santa Fe I stick the switch inside (hidden) (will position later if necessary) and leave it on during the day
as we return often to run the trains (a 3&1/2 yo child attention span still all over the place)
Whereas the Lima I switch off after every session (between 10 and 20 sessions for the day).

And because we sometimes run both and sometimes only one I have no way of checking.
The batteries seem to be between 5.6 or 6V at the end of the day which I think is JUST ok.

Does leaving it on drain the Lipo so much more and that is why they have switches?



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 Posted: Mon Nov 20th, 2017 01:10 pm
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Si.
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" Another aspect that interests me is the switch provided with the ESC's."





Hi George :wave:



I believe that the ON/OFF switch, connected to the 'flying-leads' emerging from the E.S.C ...

... is pretty much directly wired-out again, to the battery connector, as I recall.





The fact is, that the E.S.C.s microchips & those in the 'FlySky' receiver, both use MINIMAL power to operate.

Compared to a motor, particularly a BIG one, the battery drain is pretty small.



Having said that ...

... leave it switched on for a week & the chances are you may have a flat battery ! :f:

I would think turning it on & off DURING a days operations, would make little difference to battery life.

I'd just switch ON at breakfast & OFF at dinner ! ;)





George, go on ! ... Start a Thread on your 'FlySky'ed  R.C. loco ! :thumb:

There are O-scale R.C. fans out there, that need to see this kinda stuff !! :2t:



:!:



Si.



Of course you could go for the :brill: Einstein approach George ! ;)

I'm sure you've got a regular electrical multimeter.


So, probes connected 'in-line' with the batteries & the loco at a standstill ...

... BINGO ! there's your standby power consumption in milli-Amps. :cool:


I'd do it myself, but I'm still messing with my components ! :shocked:



:slow: :slow: :slow: :slow: :slow:



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Mon Nov 20th, 2017 03:14 pm
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George Ruthven
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Ok Si.

I just need a few more days to finish the spray painting then I'll do a photo blog and show how I stumbled :)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 20th, 2017 03:36 pm
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davecttr
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I allow about 20mA for a Rx/booster combo idling in a siding, say 25 hours for a 500mAh battery



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 Posted: Mon Nov 20th, 2017 11:03 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Si

There is something that I don't think you have mentioned

Taking the guts out of a cheap little RC car, you are most likely to end up with 27 MHz
which means a long antenna, on both transmitter and receiver.
IF the distance between the transmitter and receiver isn't much-- like when you are following the train switching
neither antenna needs to be very long,  4-5 inches will do.
but if you decide to absorb the goodness of a malt beverage, while watching the choo-choo do it's thing,
you may lose control when the loco gets some distance away from you.

With 2.4 GHz  both antenna can be short--and I mean an inch or less.

Herbie



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