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Helmut F
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Hey guys, I have started working on details for my RR and need to choose a coupler method.

I want to model the 1890 to 1910 time period (just because) and am considering either kadee G couplers or a link and pin style.  I do not want something super fiddly (mostly for non-model-railroading guests), but I am kinda warming up to the link and pin.  Is there a not-so-fiddly way to simulate link and pin but still maintain the methodology and some modicum of reliability (i.e. if you back up the 'pin' does not get forced out).  I have seen some pieces like a staple that represent both the link and the pin but am not sure how well they would work.

Thx for any input.  FWIW, I do not plan on the RR interchanging with others.

pipopak
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"Non-model railroading guests" and "link and pin couplers" do not belong in the same phrase. You are looking for endless frustration. IMHO they are only for the most dedicated (and steady-handed).
Jose.

Kitbash0n30
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I know a great place to ask, The Early Rail modeling group
"Are you interested in modeling early railroads? This list includes
railroads both in and outside of the USA. The start of World War
1 is the general cut-off date for this list.

Possible topics include: motive power, rolling stock, broad
gauge, narrow gauge, different track styles, early trolleys and
interurbans, US Civil war era, structures and much more.

Where do I get horses in my scale? How about people in the
right costume? What scale can I find the most stuff in? "
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/EarlyRail/info

NathanO
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Helmut,

I use LGB Link and Pin couplers on a number of cars, have for years. They are a little had to uncouple some times but they are fun.

Nathan

Bob R
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Go for it.  Woodie uses link and pin on his Mogollon and his Silver City railroads and has for years.  Look in the Narrow Guage Forum.
I have been using three link chain and pin on my Geneseo Railway for two years.  None who have operated it have complained.  Most enjoy it a great deal.  If you can operate a "pic" to manually uncouple in HO, you can easily do link and pin.

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W C Greene
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I use locking tweezers to pull the pins and while the pins are in the jaws, I can move the links around to line up with the holes...then drop the pins and squeeze the tweezers to let go. I have the same things on my On20 Gila Tram and have no problems. Just take care and have plenty of lighting to see what you are doing.

Woodie

pipopak
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I do not want something super fiddly (mostly for non-model-railroading guests),

........

Jose.

Helmut F
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Yes, I have seen Woodies stuff in his thread. That is what got me thinking about it in the first place.

I like yours as well Bob. Is that prototyical at all? Just wondering, I have not seen that implemented anywhere yet. I can easily imagine its use somewhere.

Maybe I should do some testing to see how fiddly this really is.

Jose, I hear you and you are not ignored. It is just the link and pin appeals to me, but simplicity of operations probably wins the practicality award.

This is a conundrum.

Bob R
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Helmut F wrote:

I like yours as well Bob. Is that prototyical at all? Just wondering, I have not seen that implemented anywhere yet. I can easily imagine its use somewhere.


Yes...  Mostly used on small tram style equipment.  Recommend looking on YouTube at the video titled "Vanishing Coal Mines of Pingxi Valley".  You will find it very interesting.
My layout is battery RC and evrything is manual.  Link and pin, hand operated ground throws and manual "armstrong" turntables.  Operating it is great fun.  I will echo Woodie though - you need good lighting.

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Helmut F
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Thx. While my layout will not be a tram, it will mostly be small equipment. It is going to be outdoors (I have temporary indoor right now for testing stuff out) and plenty of light, but then that might mean no night operations.

Maybe I can figure out a way to just run trains for nighttime effect - I plan to have building lighting, etc. eventually - but i need to plan loops at the ends then.

But am i wrong in that one would need good lighting (at night) for even Kadee couplers? at least for uncoupling?

pipopak
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You could tape a small flashlight to an uncoupling hook.
Jose.

Si.
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" But am i wrong in that one would need good lighting (at night) for even Kadee couplers? "



Hi Helmut :wave:



I fiddled around on my old 1:24n3 car-builds, with 3 different coupler types.


1. Link n Pin - Russ Simpsons 1:24 Westside Lumber Company ones.

2. 'Realistic' Knuckle - Precision Scale 1:24 Brass 4-piece Castings.

3. Kadee Knuckle.


I like both the Russ Simpson & Precision Scale Couplers a lot.

The PSc ones were CRAZY expensive though, although my car production speed was slow.

The Russ Simpsons looked very nice for WSLCo. equipment.


In the end though, it was the chunky ol' Kadee 'G' scale couplers that made it on to the cars.

They didn't look brilliant on 1:24n3 'fine-scale' cars ... But they worked GREAT !



:moose:



Si.

Helmut F
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Si,
much appreciated. while, for some tortuous reason, the link and pin or something of that type appeals to me I am probably going to go with Kadee.

Would you do 1 scale vs G scale to make the look a bit better?

Lee B
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pipopak wrote: "Non-model railroading guests" and "link and pin couplers" do not belong in the same phrase. You are looking for endless frustration. IMHO they are only for the most dedicated (and steady-handed).


I agree fully with this.
Link and pins can be annoying even for people like us!

W C Greene
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But there are no uncoupling issues on grades, etc with l&p's.
Yep, a steady hand is needed...and a good stiff drink!

Woodie

pipopak
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..and a good stiff drink!
And throw Rule G to the wind!..
Cheers (hic) Jose!.

Helmut F
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Guys, what about good ole hook and loop? are they that difficult to uncouple? it seems they are, like the uncoupling device (homemade, pico uncoupling rod, whatever) would get stuck between the two hooks as you try to pull the cars apart?

just wondering due to reliability, and ran across TrainLi Proline S-Kuplix "loops". Anyone ever try using them?

Bob R
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Hook and Loop?  Who would even consider such a thing?  You could get seriously hurt operating those things!

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Helmut F
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Bob,
I know... But, they are there already.

I am seriously considering something that is very similar to yours or Kadee.

One issue I have is resale value, I do not want to hack up cars and then not have the gumption to finish a real layout and never use them (and need to sell them).

I will try hook and loop on the Christmas layou and see how I fare with that and then make my decision.

Just wondering if anyone has just stuck with hook and loop for operations.


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