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Recent work on the In-ko-pah Railroad
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 Posted: Wed Jul 19th, 2017 06:34 pm
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slateworks
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Brilliant as always Ray and a great location. I can already hear the beer glasses rattling on the bar as the tram clatters overhead!



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Updah Creek http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7457&forum_id=4&page=1
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 Posted: Fri Jul 21st, 2017 01:46 am
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Steven B
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Ray, glad to see you back in the line-up.  Hope you enjoy your travels.  Keep posting!
Jose, at least I won't be falling down drunk when I leave the bar... Perhaps the owner of the billiards establishment should change the name to the "Slide Inn"?
Good stuff as always.:2t:



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 Posted: Sat Jul 22nd, 2017 05:26 am
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Michael M
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I like that two-story building that you rehabed.  Could tell us how you went about making that rock wall?



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Michael
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Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad
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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2017 11:59 pm
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Ray Dunakin
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Michael, I have a step-by-step for that here:

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_Building_1.html



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 Posted: Thu Jul 27th, 2017 02:55 am
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Michael M
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Many thanks for that link.  The step-by-step instructions are really helpful.

I didn't notice it before but the job you did on the roofing is outstanding! :bg:


Keep it coming please.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 28th, 2017 01:29 am
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mwiz64
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Ray,

The In-ko-pah is my favorite railroad to follow here at Freerails. As always, beautiful work!



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 Posted: Thu Oct 12th, 2017 02:18 am
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Ray Dunakin
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I've set aside my model of the Grizzly Bar saloon for now, and started work on a new building for the Mineral Ridge mine and mill. This will be the power house. It will eventually contain a diesel-powered generator, an air compressor for the mine, and possibly a blacksmith's shop.

The major components (walls, roof, etc) are made from 6mm Sintra:





This is the main room. There will be a smaller room added on one side. The floor is 3mm Sintra, and won't be glued in until after I get the roof installed:








The smaller room was also made with 6mm Sintra. I use these steel machinist's blocks to keep everything square:





Here, I've started adding the roof:





There are openings on the rear of each room, for access to the interior. The rear walls will be removable:





This is where the structure will sit on the layout:





Fitting the roof of the side room into the roof of the larger room was a bit tricky. I used scraps of Sintra and some Dynaflex 230 paintable sealant to fill the gaps:









Another shot of the structure temporarily placed on the layout:





The smaller room will only have one window, located close to the cliff, so there is no need to detail the interior there. But the large room has multiple windows, making the interior fairly visible. The interior is built as a separate model that slides into the rear of the building. Because the exterior will be clad with corrugated metal, for the interior I am simulating the appearance of a a wood-framed structure. The interior walls are scribed to give it a little bit of a corrugated look. The framework is built up out of strips of styrene:













That's all for now. Enjoy!



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 Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2017 02:39 am
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Ray Dunakin
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A little more progress on the power house...


I made the ceiling for the interior. It is detailed with rafters, and will be attached with screws so that I can remove it to access the interior:




I also adding some frame detail to the inside of the front wall. This detail had to be carefully placed so it would line up with the removable interior:




These shots through the side window shows how it all comes together:






Next I started on the corrugated metal exterior. I had previously used real, galvanized, corrugated steel from Rainbow Ridge on my Assay Office building, and considered using it again on this one. But this building has more windows and also many more angles and joins, and the steel is difficult to cut or bend. So I went back to making my own corrugated metal out of .001" thick shim brass sheet. This comes in a 6" wide roll, and I cut into 4" x 6" sheets. I heat the sheets of brass with a plumber's torch to anneal them. Then I place each sheet between two pieces of the corrugated steel, and scribe the groove using a dull pencil:




I start at one end, and scribe a short section at a time until I've gone more the half the length of the piece. Then I turn it around and start scribing the other end, and meet in the middle. Next I flip it over and scribe the other side. When it's done, I trim off that piece (about 1" wide), remove it, place the remaining brass in between the steel, and start over on the next piece. Tedious, but eventually I get it all done. The pieces of corrugated brass are then sprayed with oven cleaner to wash any residue off. After rinsing with water they are set out to dry.

I glue the corrugated metal to the structure using Dynaflex 230 paintable sealant. At this time I have completed covering the exterior walls and have just started on the roof:






There is no need to apply metal to the rear walls, since they will be up against the cliff and not visible. In this photo the rear walls have been removed:




Here are a couple shots showing how it will look on the layout:







That's all for now.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2017 09:48 pm
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Ken C
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Ray

Like the finish of the siding after annealing, OK I know it is not right. For the corrugated siding I use a paper corrugated roller (beer cans) may reduce time for siding if you have a lot to make. Got mine from Michaels, tad big for O scale but should work for 1/24 etc.

Ken
GWN



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 Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2017 10:56 pm
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Rod Hutchinson
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Really nicely done Ray.  I may try your techniques.



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Rod Hutchinson
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