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Giles
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My latest layout is Denton Brook - the back end of a cable making factory, with its own internal 2ft gauge railway, being served by standard gauge line and road transport.
Both empty and full cable drums are handled, and leave the factory on special little wagons with a curved weĺl. They are then trans-shipped onto standard gauge wagons via the working transfer crane, or onto lorries via the mobile crane.
The scenic part of the layout is 8' x 3', and can happily take up to four operators at an exhibition !

IMG_1795 by giles favell, on Flickr
IMG_1813 by giles favell, on Flickr

IMG_1815 by giles favell, on Flickr

IMG_1728 by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Sat Jul 15th, 2017 01:51 pm by Giles

Giles
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However, I found that we had some unacceptable stalling at the one exhibition we've done so far. As well as trying to sort it through conventional means, i also wanted to have one RC loco.

Another Bagnall was chosen, and I started building the body from an old Wrightlines kit. It was however designed to go on a RTF Pug chassis,and I needed to build an entirely new one.

The first step was to draw up the frames and coupling rods on CAD. I blew them up to twice size, and laser cut them out of 2mm MDF to form templates, which I glued to another sheet of MDF. I then milled out these, and subsequently all the chassis components out of nickel-silver (mostly 0.028") using my little Proxxon pantograph engraver which I have modified to light milling.

The chassis is entirely silver-soldered, which makes for a lively strong and stable assembly.

The battery is a 650mAh, which will fit in the boiler (just!) And the motor is a little 6v 5:1 gearmotor, with a 20:1 final drive, which gives me a very nice appropriate speed at 3.7v

Radio by Deltang of course.

03B65D83-16E9-46C2-88CB-7D1F63F78992_zpsgmmk0e2a by giles favell, on Flickr

E705FDA5-8F95-4840-B673-60B3755F151B_zpssatbobgp by giles favell, on Flickr



070BF448-E4AF-4FA3-9E97-E0E780C825D3_zpsgclrchfq by giles favell, on Flickr


Pantograph Milling by giles favell, on Flickr


9D9C4ED7-0181-440B-AB22-EEA806A6267B_zpsjpe3ivwi by giles favell, on Flickr


Bagnall motion brackets silver soldered on by giles favell, on Flickr


Cylinder with valve guide and sleeve by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Sat Jul 15th, 2017 02:16 pm by Giles

Si.
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Hi Giles :wave:



The layout looks FANTASTIC ! :bg:

I really like the cable-drum factory idea.

The loads are a nice thing to see being shipped.



What can I say Giles . . .

BRILLIANT WORK !!



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.



Great loco building pix. :cool:

Where did your large worm & gear come from Giles ?

Giles
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Thank you Si,

The worm and gear came mail order from Holts Models. They are of course Romford in origin.

Giles
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The chassis is complete and running, with the body not far behind - just at the painting stage. It runs via radio with no problem

The valve gear was a very interesting exercise to make with my little pantograph engraver - and I was extremely pleased with the result. I should not have liked to do it any other way!


Bagnall naked chassis by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Sun Aug 20th, 2017 09:48 pm by Giles

Giles
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Video of a test here....

http://youtu.be/-gmWJ7T4t88

W C Greene
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As we say in Tejas..."Mui Excellente!"

Woodie

pipopak
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... also a very neat way to get rid of all that pesky trackwork...
Jose.

oztrainz
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Dear Giles and all,
Rails??? Who needs'em??? 
Well done, that is one seriously smooth-running mechanism under the loco body, Having seen your r/c crane in action on Youtube, I'm not surprised at the quality of this build.:glad::glad::glad::bow::bow::bow:  

Maybe we do need rails here? Otherwise it would be Free??, :P 

Lee B
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GREAT model work. I love the scenery.
Frankly, I don't get why you consistently get UK/EU-based modelers who generally do a far more accurate depiction of scenery than US-based modelers...

pipopak
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Probably because in Europe layouts tend to be A LOT smaller. Over here we BS ourselves with "size matters" and tend to build bigger. Given the same time, more detailed layouts are built there.Jose.

Lee B
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pipopak wrote: Probably because in Europe layouts tend to be A LOT smaller. Over here we BS ourselves with "size matters" and tend to build bigger. Given the same time, more detailed layouts are built there.Jose.

Yeah, but our UK/EU friends use totally different techniques, regardless the size of the layout. I know that UK layouts tend to run way smaller than what a US modeler would try outside of a module group, but on an equal basis, two layouts the same size on each side of the pond will likely have completely different scenery approaches and results...
...and the UK one will usually be far more accurate looking for scenery.

pipopak
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two layouts the same size on each side of the pond will likely have completely different scenery approaches and results...
Guess so, one side shows US landscape, the other European. Almost nothing looks even close.
Jose.

Last edited on Wed Aug 23rd, 2017 03:39 am by pipopak

Giles
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Thank you - very kind!

Rest assured, in the UK we get all sorts of modeller as well, but of course our layouts tend to be much smaller, as our houses are quite small (all a generalisation, of course!). Denton Brook is only 8' x 3', and that's too large really. So with a small layout it may be perhaps easier to concentrate on the details.
I should also say that I've seen some amazingly fine work from your side!

Steven B
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Holy Smokes!  That is some fine work. I am looking at RC when I finally get some track down.  But I am afraid that I haven't the skills to build a mechanism like that.  Show us more, please.
:bow:

Giles
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The chassis is basically quite simple, made very much easier by all being cut out on my little pantograph, rather than doing it by hand! Because I didn't k ow I was going to build it R/C when I started, I built it as a compensated chassis with the front axle rocking. The front axle bearings have a little 'tag' soldered on so they can't rotate, and the holes are elongated into slots, so the bearings can rise and fall by about half a millimetre each way. I tend to silver-solder nearly everything, as I find it easier than soft soldering , so it has all ended up as a very split lump.... It is much easier to add bits on to a silver soldered structure, as it doesn't tend to fall apart as you heat it up again - hence I was able to add motion brackets and cylinders - also all silver soldered. Finally the valve gear (which being very small, I would have found very difficult to make, other than by pantograph) was assembled using shirt pins with their heads reduce in a mini drill with a needle file. These were all heated and blackened, and then just the bits that were to take solder cleaned back, and tiny amounts of silver solder paste used to make the articulated joints. 
5A3A2D92-C77C-4294-A885-9D6E235B9768_zpsrormsqsg by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Mon Sep 25th, 2017 10:02 pm by Giles

Giles
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Milled valve gear 0-14 Bagnall by giles favell, on Flickr

Valve gear assembled. Cut from 28 thou nickel silver, all joints silver soldered.

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Valve gear fitted.

Bagnall valve gear complete by giles favell, on Flickr

Giles
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The body is a Wrightlines Bagnall, no longer in production. With care, it solder a together neatly, but needed a little modification for my home-made chassis and radio gear.

6F764E74-701F-4429-AAE1-EC2C8BE2556D_zpszgzevkkh by giles favell, on Flickr

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A cylindrical 650mAh battery lives in the boiler, and the Deltang receiver is fitted in the LH bunker

Bagnall exposed battery by giles favell, on Flickr

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The body nearing completion  
Bagnall body by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Mon Sep 25th, 2017 10:14 pm by Giles

Alwin
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Wow, what a beautifull loco! :bow:
Great work.

Alwin

oztrainz
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Giles,You NEVER cease to amaze me with your workmanship and microsurgery.
That's worth :moose::moose::moose::moose::moose: just for getting the valve gear together, let alone any thing else on the loco. :bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:


 

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Beautiful work!

Giles
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Thank you Gents.... it seems to take me an age!

And back to the Bagnall.....

I didn't want to use the cast valve wheels, which were just lumps, actually, and so a month ago I made up some etched one's I had onto NS wires, and put them so one side with the smokebox door in a bag.

I've now lost the bag.

I've managed to buy some more (different) valve wheel etched, and silver soldered them onto 0.5mm wire, and glued them onto the loco before I lose them, and also fitted the corresponding pipework.
I now have to make a new smokebox door, which is a pain. It's then over, apart from a bit more weathering a driver and some coal

2017-09-26_02-34-50 by giles favell, on Flickr

2017-09-26_02-10-53 by giles favell, on Flickr



Bagnall by giles favell, on Flickr

Herb Kephart
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Incredible work Mr Favell!

A pantograph is a great tool, isn't it?

And as to taking a long time, isn't that part of creating a masterpiece?

  What size end mill (cutter for the non machinists) did you use on the little parts? I used to soft solder the sheet that the parts were to be cut from, to a second sheet.That way the small buggers didn't fly off never to be seen again. When cutting was finished heat applied to the rear of the sacrificial sheet gave you the parts.



Herb

Giles
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Thank you Herb!
I deeply love my little pantograph. I should love a real one - but I don't have the space- but meanwhile, this little bodge has revolutionised what i can do!

I've been using a 1.2mm diameter D bit, as being more resilient than the 0.8s, but still giving me good detail. These go through 0.028" nickel silver in a single pass.

So far I've simply used double sided tape to hold the sheet down. It means there's a slight burr at the end of the cut on small pieces (but not on larger ones), but it also
means I'm not cutting down into the steel below.

I certainly wouldn't have made the valve gear by hand.....

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I.'ve used the double sided tape also, but for the sacrificial piece I have always used scrap  brass, just as long as it's flat. As I recall we would sand the face to remove any burr. Just so it looked like it had enough area. A 1.2 D bit is a challenge to grind, also, but as long as you keep it short, only as long as needed, they cut fine. Would grind angular ones also, in instances where a angular edge, or a chamfer, was needed.

The old daze. Now the Gorton seems to only see a nameplate, now and then.

Herb

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Smokebox door sorted (Milliput) and glued on. It will now be destructive if I have to change the battery!

Weathering sort of done. Just couplings to make.

2017-09-28_01-44-28 by giles favell, on Flickr

2017-09-28_01-50-30 by giles favell, on Flickr

W C Greene
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Giles, wonderful work! The engineer looks like he is having a great time with this little lokie. Thank you for showing everybody what a true artist & craftsman can do.

Woodie

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For the sake of completion - we did an exhibition this weekend, and this Bagnall worked all day both days, only requiring charging at night. That's at least seven hours use per charge!

Giles
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There are a couple of sparrows on Denton Brook, but they're extremely small, and rather difficult to photograph!

Sparow by giles favell, on Flickr
Denton Brook sparrow by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Sat Aug 11th, 2018 08:43 am by Giles

Giles
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I laser-cut nettles to grow under the fire-escape
Denton Brook by giles favell, on Flickr

Last edited on Sat Aug 11th, 2018 08:46 am by Giles

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The old factory

IMG_2311 by giles favell, on Flickr

W C Greene
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Excellent work! The birds on the fence are fantastic, I am inspired to "copy" this little detail...just wonderful.

Woodie

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Great detail.  :thumb:

Birds on a wire.
Missing shingle on the factory roof.

Lee B
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Wow. I LOVE the birds on the wire and the plants.
Great sign work on the wall of the structure, so many layout signs look like they printed them off their home printer in a typeface that they'd sent a flyer out for and not how real signs look. You got the sign looking perfect, in that the color and typeface looks right and the weathering is excellent!

Si.
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Hi Giles  :wave:



It's all looking FANTASTIC !  :thumb:



I love the nettles & fire escape scene ...  :cool:

... the building work is of course awesome as well.  :bg:



Keep up the great work.  :P



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


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I think Giles tricked us out with that Bagnall. In reality, it's steam and a lot larger!Giles, when do you eat and sleep then?

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Quite nice. Locomotive build is impressive. Grandfather W's middle name was/is Denton.

Giles
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Because the R/C mobiles crane only lasts for 5 1/2 hours before needing a recharge, I thought it needed supplimenting with a second to keep exhibition interest.

Instead of building a duplicate, I've made a 'steam' rail crane, narrow gauge, on 14mm track which I've just got working. 

It has all the functions - slew, derrick, hoist and travel, and with a 1000mAh lipo, it should last a full day.

There are still a couple of details to add to finish it off.

https://youtu.be/XdZqqoMEVsQ

http://youtu.be/XdZqqoMEVsQ


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Giles

:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose: 

just don't let Si see it, he will want one  L:


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Another fantastic peace of modeling. 

Always fascinating to see your work!

Alwin


Michael M
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Giles,


Thanks for the great video!

How about putting some timbers across the flatbed to help keep the spool from rolling on you...just a thought.

Giles
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Thank you Gents!

Yes - the lorry normally has a timber cradle exactly for this purpose, but I lent it out, and haven't refitted it yet!

Cor V
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love it , small crane and working :moose::moose::moose:

hoop te see some pictures from the inside how it is done

Cor


Giles
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This shows the mounting of the hoist motors for the derrick and hoist. 

They are 'Flip' type gearmotors with a small drum mounted directly on each shaft. 

The slew is a normal gearmotor, vertically mounted behind.











Giles
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Hiding underneath all that junk is a slip-ring, which allows 360 degree plus rotation of the crane on the frames. 

The only power conducted through is two ways for the traction motor, 
which is yet another 6v gearmotor, second axle driven by the first via a gear-train of laser-cut gears.






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underside of truck....





Cor V
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nice

thanks for those pictures

what speed do you use for the winches? 

Cor


Giles
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the winches are 40 rpm at 6v, so around 30rpm at 3.7v (ish!)




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Finished now, with driver and other details added.


Michael M
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I've used a few of those micro gearmotors in the past.  

Never thought about putting a spool on the shaft.  

Great idea.  

Where did you find the spools?



Giles
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Hi Michael,

I machined them up on my Umimat 3. 

If I had been unable to do that, I would have used some tube, and soldered plates on each end.


Cor V
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Ordered some motors for a future project.

Even found some spools.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Small-Blue-Belt-Fixed-Pulley-3mm-D-Hole-for-Toy-Robotic-Module-Car/391238924629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Cor

Giles
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In the UK we had 'Mechanical Horses' from 1934 to the late '60's, which were owned both by the railway companies and also by many industries.
This is a model (converted white metal kit) of the original 3 Ton version, which had an 1100cc petrol engine.
The model is radio controlled, 1:43, and will run for two exhibition days between charges (650mAh battery)










Si.
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Hi Giles  :wave:



I gotta say as a BIG ! crane fan ...

... Your locomotive-crane is a great lookin' gal !!  :)



As for 'DHT 717' ...

... I dunno WHERE ??  :shocked: you are stashing all the R.C. gear in there Giles ??  :us:



But you seem to have the Paul Daniels '20 rabbits out of 1 top-hat' trick, MASTERED ...

... when it comes to making all the electronics ... DISAPPEAR !!  :P


Those ol' 3-wheeler workhorse trucks are somehow quintessentially 'British' to me ...  :old dude:

... I'm pretty sure I recall getting my Dads 'Dinky Toys' one from my Grandmother as a kid.  L:



Great stuff !

'British Racing Green' as well !!

FAST right ??  :slow: :slow: :slow: :slow: :slow:



;)



Si.


Giles
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Hi Si,

Cheers!
Let me spoil the illusion by this photo.

The servo is a 1.7g type, and is situated where the engine would be (in the cab with a cowl over it).
You can just see the RX tucked in in front of it, and the wiring just gets shortened, pinned and glued as far away as possible.
The gearmotor is miniscule, but still powerful at 6mm x 8mm x 23mm, and is tucked under the chassis.










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Hi Giles. 

What receiver board are using and did you have to program it for the servo?




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Hi Rod,

it's just the standard Rx41d (road version) which comes with servo already programmed.
The only complication was with the servo mounted this way up (which it had to be!) it was operating backwards.

I know you can get servo-reverse boards, but I couldn't spare the space,
so I used a programmable transmitter - a Jumper T8SG - which allows me to reverse the servo signal at the transmitter end.


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Giles wrote: Hi Rod, it's just the standard Rx41d (road version) which comes with servo already programmed.

Thanks Giles. 

I have some but have never turned on my DSM2 transmitter. 

I shall try it.


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This shows the overall size of the Mechanical Horse.





Alwin
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Your work is always impressive Giles.

It is not only the fact that it works, but also that it works very smooth and it is all very well finished.
I love it.
The video was great too.

Alwin



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