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Need help with Santa Fe 8020 motor
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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 02:23 pm
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George Ruthven
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Helmut,
I removed the armature (to see the condition of the gears and to do any cleaning and lubrication at the same time) to measure as well.
The 3 sections are 1.9 or 2 ohm and look brand new.
I also cleaned the sections and the brushes but have not assembled them again.
I want to take some measurements in case I go the new DC motor route.
What can I do next?
 



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 04:12 pm
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George Ruthven
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I assembled all and it runs as per yr diagram beautifully even on 9V:2t:. Forwards and then reverse. What a pleasure.
But I do see lots of sparking on the one brush?
And now for a fwd and reverse circuit?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 04:27 pm
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Helmut
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As soon as one does it right, it works! The sparking may be caused by a dirty collector, that is some debris in the grooves separating the commutator segments. Take out the brushes, take the jagged end of match or a toothpick, and slide them along the grooves separating them.
Now for the rectifier: A 40V, 1000mA type will suffice. It will direct the current through the corresponding winding to make the motor follow the DC polarity.
P.S. One of the ~ terminals MUST be left unconnected!

Attachment: LIONEL.jpg (Downloaded 18 times)

Last edited on Mon Aug 28th, 2017 04:31 pm by Helmut



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 05:16 pm
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W C Greene
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While I'm not familiar with "new" Lionel, I had assumed that they were run with DC motors. The last (and newest) locos that I repaired had "regular old" DC motors and the circuitry to change the AC track voltage to DC. This was proved by hooking a standard power pack to the "clip on" terminal and watching the units run. Therefore, I wouldn't think any special wiring would be necessary, motor wires from the board to the terminals on the motor. Just as in "any other" DC operated loco. Have things changed again?

Woodie



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 05:55 pm
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George Ruthven
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Many thks Helmut.

Woodie I assume it's a very old model as it was an estate sale on ebay and the add said it only goes forward. The gears definitely show lots of use and I may have to replace the main worm and wheel sometime.
I am also only doing BPRC and the first loco is running on a cheap 2ch toy car remote, receiver and Hobbywing 1060 ESC. I experienced endless problems with the standard 9V (rectangular) batteries I was using as the esc would cut out within half a minute of running. Wait a few minutes and it would go again. Very frustrating for my grandson. I then loaned a 2S pack from the hobby shop and problem solved. So I learned all about low voltage cutout arghhh. Now I'am waiting for a few lipo's from China & ebay.
What a lovely hobby for an old mech eng!
 



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 05:56 pm
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Nice Guy Eddie
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Hi George



Your Topic has been moved to the Technical forum as you asked



:f:



Eddie



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 Posted: Mon Aug 28th, 2017 06:58 pm
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George Ruthven
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Thks Eddie



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 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 10:27 am
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George Ruthven
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Helmut wrote: As soon as one does it right, it works! The sparking may be caused by a dirty collector, that is some debris in the grooves separating the commutator segments. Take out the brushes, take the jagged end of match or a toothpick, and slide them along the grooves separating them.
Now for the rectifier: A 40V, 1000mA type will suffice. It will direct the current through the corresponding winding to make the motor follow the DC polarity.
P.S. One of the ~ terminals MUST be left unconnected!

Helmut,
I cleaned between the commutators and the sparking has reduced to being very tiny and intermittent. I held the truck upside down under power and then the sparking disappears completely. I suspect the brushes are becoming (microns) too short and will source replacements. Otherwise it's running beautifully. I'll report when I've sourced the rectifier and stuck my RC system in the Santa Fe and how it's running. My grandson will be duly impressed.
Many many thks.
George



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